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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Reason I say they are different is I put passenger floorboards on my 83 (frame at this point) that came from an MKII. I had to put an 'adapter' on to get the muffler hanger(flange I called it before) to line up. This was about a 3 inch difference, so I doubt that is your problem. Drawing of adapter attached. And a picture or two. Gary
  2. dingy
    I got my debit type card a couple of weeks ago with $25 on it. You need to activate card before it will work and there are restrictions on using it. Gary
  3. dingy
    Mounting flag on top of exhaust is different location for one. Gary
  4. dingy

    Pick up Coils

    dingy replied to Pam's topic in Watering Hole

    The pickup connector is a 6 pin housing with 5 pins in it. There are two rows of 3 spaces each in connector. One row has 3 pins, other has 2 pins. The common wire is the black wire. It is located in the connector opposite the empty pocket. Probe from the common connection to each of the other 4 wires and you should read between 95 & 125 ohms. If all 4 readings are consistent, I would say they are OK. Another check would be to read from each of the 5 wires to ground on the bike frame, this reading should show open. All of above checks are with the connection disconnected from harness. You will be checking on the connector side with the male pins. From your post, it sounded like you are checking at the TCI connection. Above description is for testing at the connection from the pickup coils to harness connection, this is on left side near air damper adjuster. Gary
  5. dingy
    Why don't you take a look at the Ignitech unit? Fully programmable, it's not limited to 8 preset programs. Here is a link to the Dyna install manual. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/D3K7-4_7-5.pdf Here is a link to the Ignitech thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 Ignitech's web site. http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm Gary
  6. dingy

    Signature test

    dingy replied to Mel's topic in Watering Hole

    Look at my sig pic at bottom & compare it too the screen shot in your other thread that I posted, the lower part of picture is cutoff. Gary
  7. dingy

    Signature test

    dingy replied to Mel's topic in Watering Hole

    Looks like the upper half of a biker. I have seen other pics cutoff at the bottom. Not sure if is size or format issue. Gary
  8. dingy

    Signature snafu

    dingy replied to Mel's topic in Watering Hole

    Here is a picture of my sig page with Speedy Gonzoles loaded. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/6-15-20115-27-13PM.jpg
  9. dingy
    Keem, What kind of hose did you use from the rear reservoir to the master? Anything special? Gary
  10. dingy
    Rear master also has a float. Did you check it? Gary
  11. dingy
    OK, still need one. Bob couldn't find one. Pleeeeeaaaasssseeee I have a nice steering ring nut wrench I'll trade, never been used !!! Gary
  12. dingy
    To save me reading all the posts as you maybe said already, what disc was bad? I want to ask my surgeon about the Laminotomy procedure, he is going to do a discectomy on my L4-L5 extrusion. MRI is below, does mine sound close to what you had, other than previous fractures? Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/MRI.jpg
  13. dingy
    If your carbs are as bad as you indicate, this might be an option. I just ran across this on ebay, Item # 330576075357 Repairing the sliders is not something I would consider. If one comes apart while it is running and gets into block, it will be fugly. Gary
  14. dingy
    Transmission is built into motor. Split case is only access. Gary
  15. dingy

    Speaker

    dingy replied to Bubber's topic in Watering Hole

    Pretty hard to get info when you hijack your own thread !!! Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/thread_direction.gif
  16. dingy
    Only way to fix it is to pull motor from bike, split case in half & replace thrust washer & any other damaged parts. If it is jumping out of gear, you may need gears and possible shift fork. If your asking, can you swap motors, the answer is yes. They are a direct swap. Gary
  17. dingy
    Might be a good idea to be sure you can make it back home also !!! Gary
  18. dingy
    Make dangity dang sure it is not in gear when you do this. It will run over you when you are lying on ground just after you touch that starter wire if it is on side stand and in gear. An 83-85 (MKI) has a different fuse setup than a 86-93 (MKII's) they don't have the spade fuse block that MKII's have. Gary
  19. dingy
    Remove the head light cover & wind shield, then the black shroud over the cluster. (2 screws each side.) To remove cluster, there are 2 10mm bolts that can be seen beside or close to the headlight, but to rear of it. You need a long extension to reach back into these. Check link below. Exactly what you need to get to it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328 Gary
  20. dingy
    One possible check for the TCI, and it is one I haven't tried, Would be to power it up and read the 4 coil output voltages. They should all read near 12v-. The TCI on the Ventures is sometimes incorrectly referred to as a CDI. They are two distinctly different pieces of equipment. A CDI puts a charged pulse on the coil each time the plug fires. A TCI circuit is normally energized, and the energy is removed from the coil each time the plug fires. So if you put the positive lead of a digital meter one the positive battery terminal, you should read 12V if you check each of the 4 coil output wires. At the coil connection, generally a 2 prong connector (yellow on the 1st gens) one wire will be red with a tracer color, this is the 12v+. The other wires will be the TCI side, Orange (Cyl. #1 L.R.), Gray (Cyl. #2 L.F.), Yellow (Cyl. #3 R.R.) and White (Cyl. #4 R.F.). These are 1st gen colors. Not sure if the 2nd gens copied HD's wire scheme or not. Check to the TCI side wire of the coil with the negative meter lead. Only use a digital meter when reading power on electronic circuits. It has to do with the bridge circuits in a needle type (analog) meter. They can destroy electronics. If any of them are zero or low readings I would suspect the TCI. Gary
  21. dingy
    If you do go with the 'Backer Plate' that Mlew linked to, do not skimp on the thickness of the material used to make this plate. Look at the surface just below the 2 red arrows in the 2nd picture and see if this flange is flat from mount hole to other mount hole. Any bowing can be source of leakage. The cover is possible bowing in the center due to heat, fatigue and internal pressure from the compressed o-ring. The metal that is used for the plate needs to exert pressure in the center of the plastic housing marked by the arrow in the 1st picture to do the most good. The left side mounting tab is rather long on the housing so it may be weakened. Also, the two bolts should be replaced with ones 2mm longer to maintain sufficient thread engagement. 1/8" should be thick enough for the plate and also be available at a hardware store. Doubling up on the o-rings would not be something that can be done if o-ring is installed correct. 2nd picture shows o-ring groove with 2 arrows, the ring must go in this groove, then plastic housing pushed in metal T-stat casting. If o-ring is put in casting first, it will fail almost immediately. The sealant method is one alternative, not glamorous, but may work. Black permatex is about $5 a tube. It won't take a lot of it to seal. Like Bongo, I have quite a bit of O-ring experience, only on the design end. Was actually designing a part this afternoon with an o-ring groove in a somewhat similar application to this one. The groove width is 1.780" ( 45.21mm) ID x .102" (2.59mm) wide and .048" (1.21mm) deep. My estimate is a 1.5mm thick x 45mm ID dia O-ring. And this is a spare part, in need of cleaning, don't put it back together looking like this. Like your mother said, cleanliness is important. Gary
  22. dingy
    Not to say Squidly is wrong, but I think he is. I don't know of any spade fuses on a stock 1st gen MKI. There are 4 glass tube fuses & a main 'special' fuse. Also a couple of radio fuses. Attached is a PDF of the 84 starting circuits. Check the 15a ignition fuse. Make sure both ends are tight in the holder. As mentioned, the Start switch is the main culprit, press it and check that head light goes out, this is normal. Just hitting the positive cable to the frame, should not cause anything that would prevent cranking IMO. . With the exception of, causing already corroded cable connections to go even higher in resistance. Pull and clean all battery connections. 4 on positive side (Battery, start solenoid on left side (2) and starter). 2 on negative side Battery and ground to engine case on right front.) Check and see if it will crank with the clutch in and/or side stand up, if it does, this will narrow problem down. When jumping with a car, do not have car running, The car battery alone will be plenty big enough to crank this motor. It's another can of worms, may destroy reg/rect. Gary
  23. dingy
    I wish I was in your place. Still waiting for OK due to blood clot in foot. Gary
  24. dingy
    CMU is your dash computer, thing with warning lights & clock on it. Gary
  25. dingy
    Jeff, Not the height, but the width looked different. Gary
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