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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    As far as the tubes go, the outer diameter between the 83-85 (MKI) inner tubes and the 86-93 (MKII) inner tubes is the same. The bottom of the tubes is interchangeable, where the bolt goes up into tube. What I am not sure about is the length. But even if there is a slight (1/4" or less) difference between the MKI & MKII, as long as you use a matched pair that should not make a significant difference. They are probably the same. Not sure what you are talking about with the broke washer. A picture might help here. As long as you haven't broke the outer tube casting, I may have an extra part (washer) laying around I will give you. Gary
  2. dingy
    Not for the 83-85. I just downloaded it again & checked. The main manual is missing the following pages. Not the supplement manuals, they are OK. This PDF file is laid out weird. The supplement manuals are in front of the main manual. 2-5 3-5 3-10 3-52 3-55 3-58 5-20 6.2 7-27 8-3 But if your happy, I'm tickled pink. The online manual is great till you need what is on one of the missing pages. Gary
  3. dingy

    hoses

    dingy replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    Harbor Freight has them cheap to. Gary
  4. dingy

    hoses

    dingy replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    You almost have to use the spring clamp style where the hoses connect to the heads. A standard screw type clamp is a real pain in the nether regions to get in there. I found a large set of bent tip needle nose pliers at a surplus store that works great to install them. Cost about $4 Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/pliers.jpg
  5. dingy
    I actually have the pages you are missing to that manual. It is floating around on the internet and is missing about a dozen pages. Snaggletooth scanned them for me last year & I still have the individual pages if you want them. Gary
  6. dingy
    Here is something else I did when I stripped the carbs down. This is each O-ring that came out of the carb. I taped them to a piece of card board and noted location. The bottom one is from the fuel bowl side of carb, actually covers the main jet. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/carborings.jpg
  7. dingy
    Put your fingers across the center line of the tire, lightly feel around diameter. You MAY be able to feel cupping if it is bad. Why do you doubt it is cupping. Balance will cause vibration more than wobble. Gary
  8. dingy
    Lewis, Chaps arrived today and fit fine. Thank You !! Gary
  9. dingy
    I have a zip file that has a series of 35 pictures of a set of carbs being tore down. May not have every last detail. 7 meg. PM me an email address. Also watch this seller on ebay, luci0903 , he has an excellent DVD that shows a complete tear down & rebuild of a set of VMax carbs. Usually runs around $15. Didn't see any listed right now. Gary
  10. dingy
    Here are a few things. Gary
  11. dingy
    Brian, Somewhere I seem to recall you saying you could get other sizes. Probably my cloudy memory. But, if you can how about a 15" one, for across the shoulders on a big boys jacket. Gary
  12. dingy
    Stu, The larger the bore of the master the less force is generated at the brake calipers. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/hydsystem-1.jpg
  13. dingy
    I say take the module out bake it in the oven for an hour at 150 deg f Ohm the spark plug wires. 10K ohms. Cut about a 1/4" off of ends of wires before replacing. Put new plugs in. SeaFoam Seafoam SeaFoam Then do an Fuel Injection sync. Damn, Mike, How many times we gotta say this stuff ?? Gary
  14. dingy
    If anyone finds a particular forum something they do wish to see, then choose the ignore option for that forum. I totally agree with Dons views on Politics and Religion, but for the most part the jokes here are fairly innocent. Other than the ones about the Maytags I can put up with them. Below is a cut of the section at the bottom of the User CP - Edit Option settings. It will allow you to ignore entire sections of the site, such as those utterly offensive jokes about RSV being slower than molasses in December. At some point if we want a site that is open to people having a reasonably good time, then we need to say your rights are fine, as long as they don't infringe on my rights. At some point in the last few generations the rights of the masses became over ruled by the rights of the ones. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ignorelist.jpg
  15. dingy
    By the "Black Plastic Thing" on top of the engine, do you mean the air deflector? It snaps on over the valve cover bolts. I did away with mine, but that is me. The long hoses that go back to the motor are expensive You almost have to use the official hoses due to the sharp bends in them. I was going to replace mine and the hose started to kink at the bend over the rear head. I had new heater hose I was trying. If it is just the short hose that goes back to the connection point on the right side from the radiator there is another option. Take the hose to your local auto parts store and see if they can match it up with one they have hanging on wall. You are looking for the correct bends and diameter. You can cut the length out of a longer hose. I found one I could get the top & bottom short hoses coming out of the radiator. Cost around $12. I have no idea what the hose fit. Doesn't matter what it is for as long as bends match up. Gary
  16. dingy
    Two options. 1st Hook brake line to where front brake line was. 2nd Remove the proportioning guts from the rear master and keep line hooked to where it was. either way and you will 100% of what rear master can deliver. Gary
  17. dingy
    Not sure what I am gonna do with it Earl. The 1st gen master sounds like a nice middle ground. And it would be a bolt on change. Like I mentioned, it was just an after thought about using the master itself. I am waiting on an appt. with a Nuero surgeon to see about fixing my back issue. I may not get to ride at all this year. Bike is in pieces, gas tank is off it. About last thing I did to it was mount the rear coils on it. Which I have since decided to do away with and use the COP's setup. Front end still needs to come off to replace seals, put R1 calipers on, remove anti locks, install Condor Brace. All the plastic is off so when I can, it will be easy to do. Gary
  18. dingy
    I obtained a rear brake master from a 99 VMax. Actually got it just for the reservoir. I wanted to see if I could make it work in place of the stock one, minus the level indicator. Got it and a spare starter relay for $31 shipped. So not a bad deal. This thing is in excellent shape, so it got me pondering mounting it on the scooter. Couple of issues, both solvable. The center to center distance of the mounting holes is different, stock looks to be about 52mm & VMax looks to be about 40mm. This seems like it could be fixed with an adapter plate. There is also a c/l offset difference 7 or 8mm. This offset would be beatifically as it would give room to insert the adapter plate. Now question is, should I or shouldn't I . The brakes on the rear could stand a little more grabbing power to them. I have locked the rear wheel by really stomping on them. A little more would be nice, but I don't need an extremely touchy system that will be lock up prone. The bike currently has a 88 master in it which has a bore of 17.46mm. The VMax has a 12.7mm bore, same as RSV. The decrease in bore size would give me more force on the rear pads. It would also decrease the volume of fluid pumped. The brakes have been delinked & it has a quad piston rear caliper. The setup with the VMax master would be equivalent to an RSV setup. Or, would I be better going to a 83-85 rear master, which has a bore dia. of 15.87mm. Or just leaving it be, and hope I am able to ride it this summer. Gary
  19. dingy
    Here are a couple of pictures of the starter area with the pipes on. I think the main issue is the thermostat housing has to be removed to get it out, but I am not positive. Gary
  20. dingy
    Look at third post in thread below, there are a couple of pictures of the shifter linkage orientation. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59494 I would think you probably do need the gasket in for spacing purposes. You about got the threads wore off those bolts, you have had this thing apart several times fixing this. Don't feel bad, you aren't alone. Gary
  21. dingy
    I am working with a VMax owner from the Ukraine on setting up his Ignitech unit. He also signed up as a trial member here. User name is Carrat. I made a schematic of what I think is what Ignitech harness wire colors are for the 83-89 version. It is attached as a PDF. He has an 88 VMax. 4 pick up coil set up, same as 83-89 Ventures. Below is copy of last email he sent me after he got his unit. Red is last from him, blue is a prior response from me. The attached pictures are of my Ignitech harness. These are what I mentioned in email I sent him below. Any help from you guys that have one of these would be appreciated. As I mentioned he is from the Ukraine, so language and grammar may be a challenge on both sides. Gary \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ Gary Hi Gary, I tried to start the engine today with new TCI programmed as was reccomended by Ignitech (they sent me old v-max/venture version of settings, they are similar to the version I've already got from you). It started with a half-turn and computer showed than there was not any error. That's good news. The bad ones - is that I still have my previous problem: left rear cylinder is poping and I can see that fire comes into the carb frequently. Right rear cylinder is simply dead. I think that I need to check the phase distribution so tommorow or day after I will take off the cylinder head cover and check the camshaft position. This engine was overhauled so I assume that something was assembled wrong. "Autopsy" will show what to do further.))) As to MAP sensor - I've already got one with connector today. I also have a vacuum canister of another bike and by the end of the week will have a receiver for all vacuum pipes. Thank you for telling me the number of pins, my harness also has 3 wires. So if engine work properly - I will install MAP sensor as TPS. Then will be a boost sensor challenge. What concerns settings - I will stay with two pick-up coils but will copy your settings of advance map with MAP data. Then when servo will be connected and programmed I will make a dyno tests with further adjustments to get a maximum performance using your settings. Finally (if the result will be worth it) I will publish settings and graphics on both sites. These are my plans for the nearest month. Thank you for your help and of course, I will be asking a lot more. Regards, Andrey --- Исходное сообщение --- От кого: "Gary Dinges" Кому: "'Andrey'" Дата: 6 мая 2011, 23:05:17 Тема: Re: RE: Andrey from VMax Forum: Ignitech TCI Andrey, Just the pictures you sent may not be enough info for them, they would need a wiring diagram to relate where each wire goes to. Attached are pictures from my jumper harness. I am 99.999% sure the VMax is identical pin out to my Venture. This is for the VMax & Venture that have the 4 pick up coils. Ventures were 4 pick up coil from 83-89. I know Ignitech can relate to the Venture's. I would suggest you email them and relay the similarity between the VMax & Venture. Make sure & state it is for a 4 pick up coil version. My harness has had 3 wires added to it. Pins 7,8 & 17 were added by me. These are for the MAP sensor. I am more comfortable using the GM map sensor than I was using the Yamaha one. But then I have a lot more room on my bike to put extra stuff in. If you are considering the map sensor, one from a non turbo GM car, late 90's early 2000's. I got one at a junk yard for $5, be sure and get wiring connector. There is a lot of info I have floating around in my head about this unit. Just keep asking questions & I will try to assist you. Gary @ukr.net>@dinges.com>
  22. dingy
    That is what I did on the 2 brush starter. That was my first choice, but could not find a way to make it work. On the 4 brush starter there was not enough room to get the screw and the wire terminal eye in there. The hole that is in the plate already is right up against the vertical leg of the brush holder. I have a few better pictures at home. Gary
  23. dingy
    Here is a couple of pics of what I did to 4 brush VMax starter. Not as pretty as the 2 brush unit but functional. I used a torch to heat up plate and wire fast enough to get silver solder to stick without a lot of heat build up. Gary
  24. dingy
    Wes had a birthday ?? Why didn't somebody let me know, I would have sent something. Gary
  25. dingy
    OK, I don't get a beer for this one. What your looking at is for the upgraded cluster as I can see the gear selector switch on it. Here is the same cut (almost) from the 86-93 manual. It is in the Electrical/Signal section. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/signalwiring.jpg I would personally favor the main circuit diagram myself. Yamaha is known for having numerous errors throughout this manual. And since they did invest in redrawing the main circuit diagram, I would bet on that one. This one looks so close to the 83-85 that I would think they just reused it and it slipped through quality checks. I have seen other instances of them doing that, parts fiche being one. Gary
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