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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    You gotta know I got pictures, CMU pictures I got. These are from an 88. Some of these show the jumpers I put in to bypass the warning lights for the headlights. Gary
  2. dingy
    Twigg, Is the attached wiring diagram the one you are looking at? If it is, this one does not depict the upgraded CMU, and is very different than what you have in your bike, circuit wise. Also, I hope you know I am only trying to help you here and not win an argument. I don't want to see you damage your bike due to bad info from me. Gary
  3. dingy
    This is the cover of the manual I am looking at. I have a PDF version of it. The section with the fuel sender is shown a few posts above. Is what your looking at laid out the same as this one? It is a little grainy, but I do not see a connection to ground on the sender. There is already a ground running into the CMU on the 10 pin connector. Wouldn't think they would run two in. Gary
  4. dingy
    I just looked at the 'Yamaha' version of the wiring diagram, not the ones one the site here that some rookie drew. The separate ground (Black wire) return to the CMU is the same on the official drawing as it is on the ones posted on this site.. My concern is that a manufacturer is not going to run this ground back to the CMU without some other unknown piece of the puzzle coming into play. It doesn't seem like a big cost, but it takes an extra wire in the harness and an extra pin on the CMU & connector to do this. Spread out over 100,000 units sold and this becomes a bean counter issue. I would really suggest if after rechecking the fuel gauge, which I am thinking is OK, that you should open the CMU back up and see if you can trace this circuit in the unit and resolder anything remotely involved. I like Killian's BTW. Gary Area of official wiring diagram referenced. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/86-87Yamahawiring.jpg
  5. dingy
    Do you have easy access to the back of the CMU on your bike? As I mentioned earlier, on the upgraded CMU, the Black wire was ran back into the CMU, rather than shown as grounded as the standard CMU's are. You might want to check the continuity between the sender and this black wire on the back of CMU. You may still have an issue inside the CMU. I have no idea what just grounding this may do in the long run to the CMU. Here is a link to the 86-87 schematic. Lower left corner is fuel sender. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-87%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DS%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf I may still get a beer out of this yet. Gary
  6. dingy
    I like beer too. I tried Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/anheuserbuschbeer.jpg
  7. dingy
    That may or may not be a full 12v+. Yamaha may have throttled that voltage feed to the tank sender down to prevent a sparking issue. Gary
  8. dingy
    This is about best picture I have. Little sucker wasn't very photogenic. Gary
  9. dingy
    Do you have the standard or upgrade CMU? Do you have a gear indicator on CMU is easiest way to explain it. Not saying you are not correct about sender, but when it is in tank and gas is sloshing around it could be that the pressure exerted on the float arm is causing the wiper arm to loose a good contact with the wire wound resistor. In the attached picture, there is an arrow pointing to the adjust screw for the wiper arm. If this is loosened and arm is shifted towards resistor a tad, it may make better more consistent contact. Both wires for the fuel gauge come out of the CMU on the upgraded cluster, but I believe the black wire goes to ground, this is what it appears to do on the stsndard cluster without going into CMU. The voltage reading would then be taken from the positive side of the battery to the Green wire with a tracer of varying colors depending on year. The only thing I found in any of the 5 main service manuals I have is a very short description of an ohm meter test for the VMax. It may or may not be similar. The 83-85, 86-93, RSTD and RSV manuals don't say anything about it I spotted. Cut of the page attached. Gary
  10. dingy
    Do you have the standard or upgrade CMU? Do you have a gear indicator on CMU is easiest way to explain it. Gary
  11. dingy
    Did you check the wire wound board on the fuel sender unit to see if it was bowed. Sometimes this can be compensated for by adjusting the tension on the wiper arm. I will try & remember to post a couple of pictures of this adjustment point when I get home. If you do pull sender back out, don't do with a full tank !! Gary
  12. dingy
    Will this help? On the external shot, note the punch mark, lined up with slot. Gary
  13. dingy
    I got these copied before they they get censored. Gary
  14. dingy
    This is what I did to mime. The side cover plates are regular venture covers that I cut down to fit vmax heads Get some real good paint stripper. I like the Aircraft stripper that Auto Zone has in a red can. It is way better than the regular stuff in the green can. If you don't use paint stripper, you won't get them clean down in the grooves. After cleaning, you will need to decide on paint type, you probably want high temp engine enamel. These are powder coated. After I powder coated them, i placed them on a stationary belt sander with a fine grit belt and sanded till I cut through powder to exposes aluminum. This is not that easy with powder, you may be able to hand sand with aerosol paint. After cutting through to aluminum, I then sanded with 400, then 800 grit paper. The brake cover doesn't look as bad as it appears in the picture. You can go as far as you want with finer grits till your happy. Then clear coat with engine temp clear coat. Do not shake the clear coat before you apply, learned this the hard way. It puts fine bubble in finish and it looks cloudy. Gary
  15. dingy
    You should be in the working range on what you posted. Assuming you did not show the K ohm symbol in your bikes readings. Plug wires are a little low, but if anything that should help develop more of a spark. Have you checked the pick up coils? They should each be in the 93-126 ohm range. The schematic in the manual has an error in color codes for the pick up coils. Here is a link to the schematics on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 This link is to the specific one for the 83 model. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Gary
  16. dingy
    First link is to Dano's fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44547 Second link is to repairing the starter clutch http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5944 Gary
  17. dingy
    #1 Left Rear #2 Left Front #3 Right Rear #4 Right Front Gary
  18. dingy
    Donation for these already sent. Also donated a wrench to the St Judes cause. Gary
  19. dingy
    I would be interested in the chaps. I will PM you. Gary
  20. dingy
    I have to almost ditto Double D's reply. I had an MRI done Monday and two discs are bulging quite a bit. Have some sort of tear and one disc is almost filling spinal cavity from bulge. I have had kidney stones & I think I would rather have them than this. I am on 8 percocets a day and that only makes the pain tolerable. Saw my family doctor Friday and he is going to get me an appt with a Nuero surgeon. Have another option offered but this doctor/chrio said outcome is not guaranteed. It is a modern form of traction with a Lordex system. Not cheap & insurance doesn't cover it. At this point I am still planning on being at MD, but it won't be on bike. I haven't worked on bike at all now for two weeks. It is still nowhere near completion from its winter rebuild. Gary
  21. dingy
    Jeff, How goes the valve shim tool project ? Gary
  22. dingy
    From looking at the original thread, Squeeze had said he would like to see a wheel slip factor added in. That would be easy to do. What I think may be needed though is a different wheel slip factor in each gear. I just updated file in first thread to add a correction factor for each gear slippage. Gary
  23. dingy
    I knew there was a thread on this. I knew I had reworked this sheet somewhere. Friggin thing does resemble yours. Oh well I didn't say I created it, just posted it. Didn't I email this to you at one time? Actually I may not have even posted this on here. These pain killers are making the memory hazy. This is about all I can do now is set at computer and type. Gary
  24. dingy
    Frank, First this thread, please !! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Second, attached is a picture of what the petcock loks like inside it. You have an 83 according to your profile, so yours may not have the on/off valve. The copper colored items are very fine mesh screens that can become clogged and restrict flow. Gary
  25. dingy
    I updated the speed calculation sheet I had posted a while back. I can't find the thread so I started a new one. I added a feature to be able to display speeds in Kilometers/Hour. Also modified the tire size inputs a little. I got a new rear tire and found it was easier to measure circumference accurately than it was to measure diameter. Added correction factor for wheel slippage in each gear. The password to unlock the sheet is dingy if you are an excel guru and want to play with it. Only locked it as it is easier for user if only cells that need input are editable. Gary
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