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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. You can upload the picture to something like photobucket. Then include a link to the picture in a PM. I have done that a couple of times. Gary
  2. I emailed the two versions of the tool I created to you. They are in an IGES format, this is a common neutral format that most 3D CAD systems can import. They were created in Solid Edge ST. Gary
  3. I had the Ohio State Patrol get a radar clock on me in excess of 120 MPH several decades ago. So what number did the FJR post? Gary
  4. Try partshark.com They have the 2009 manuals online and a note to ask if you need something else. Gary
  5. I still have quite a few left. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3326&title=steering-head-bearing-ring-nut-wrench&cat=6 Gary
  6. If the starter is spinning, but engine not cranking, the three gears inside the stator cover, towards the front are in wrong. Gary
  7. There was a reason for that. Had in my pocket for a trip to hardware store. Gary
  8. I was second high bidder on a VMax last week on ebay. A dealer in Columbus Oh had a nice 85 that they had tore the motor all the way down to find a tranny problem. It was still torn apart. A friend looked at bike for me and it was in good shape. I even had a 1300 motor lined up for it. I bid $1250 on it. Gary
  9. If you can't find a socket at an auto parts store, I should have one lying around you can have. You'll need to solder it into harness of course. Finding it is the question. Gary
  10. That is interesting that the fuse did not blow. These two terminals are the positive & negative ACCY terminals. They should remain separate. 10 gauge wire on the main fuse. Gary
  11. Took some McGyvering, but I got the pull throttle cable to work and clear the frame finally. I had to make a new, repositioned mount on carbs for it. Also cut about a half inch off end to allow it to clear frame. Bent tube on end of cable about 30 deg. farther. Choke cable is now secured to frame bar. With the solid motor mounts the relationship between engine & frame should be consistent. I got a coil front & rear coil mount brackets from a VMax. Between these and some creative sheet metal forming, I think I can get the battery on its side in front of the air box. The two rear coils are going to be behind the rear cylinders. The front coils will hang down below the battery tray, with the Vboost motor behind them. I keep at it, I may make MD in Oberlin. Gary
  12. Here are some other pictures I took. Last two are of a different master, parts are in different order of separation. Gary
  13. There is a picture in the thread linked below that shows the valve gutted. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43598 Gary
  14. I have removed these a few times. Sometimes you can save them sometimes not. The plastic gets brittle. They always seem to break apart if a pair of pliers is used to try to remove them using the tabs on the exposed end. If motor is out of bike this may help. If motor is in bike, good luck and post if you find a way to get it out. In the top of the head there are 3 water jacket plugs. One of these is over the bypass joint. If you remove that plug, you will be able to see the plastic joint. There will be a hole in the top of this joint right under the plug that was removed, about 1/4" dia. I put the tips of a set of needle nose pliers in this hole and lightly pry against the block. Sometimes this will push the joint out intact. Added a picture of head. The plug laying on head is over hole that will expose bypass joint. Other two plugs are located outboard of the spark plug holes. Gary
  15. I don't know if the bolt pattern is the same. MKI rear master is 15.87mm bore. MKII rear master is 17.46mm bore. VMax is 12.7mm bore. I think you would be better of with the MKII, if you went to MKII rear caliper. If you want more pressure, then the smaller bore is the way to go. I think the stock VMaxs have dual piston calipers on rear, but not positive. Gary
  16. Behind the headlight. This relay is the odd ball one in the Venture. This relay has a Normally Closed contact in it. When the coil has power to it, there is no continuity through the contact. Therefore it can not be swapped out with another relay in the bike to check. Wiring diagrams are at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  17. I put an MKII caliper & rotor on mine last winter. It will lock the rear up also. If you go this route it will take some McGyvering to get it done The swing arm has a different pin on the MKII's where the caliper mount arm pivots from. The MKI has smaller pin than the MKII does. I ended up getting a rubber stopper and epoxied it in the MKII caliper arm & used it with the MKI swing arm. Held up with no wear over last summer. I have it off right now. The machining was very loose on the MKII parts when mated. At least a sixteenth inch of play. The hole in question is primarily to keep the arm oriented correctly. The axle shaft hole absorbs the braking force. First picture is of the two caliper arms. Red one is MKII. Second picture shows modified hole. Arms are the same length actually, they look different in photo. On the rear master, I pulled the proportioning stuff out and used that hole for rear line. I plugged hole that had went to front brakes. Gary
  18. I don't think the grommets around the pickup coil or the generator wires are available as replacements. What Brian suggested is about the best way to deal with this. In order to do it completely, you need to pull stator, so you will need a stator & middle drive gasket. I just put in a rewound stator on mine & the grommet was loose on the wires. I used permatex and coated wires on both sides of grommet and slid it around & repeated. Also cleaned out slot in stator cover where grommets go through and coated that with permatex also. While you have middle drive cover off, the gear position switch o-ring could be leaking. Also possible is the shift shaft seal and maybe the clutch rod seal. Gary
  19. Ask the northern Japanese how that concept is working for them. Gary
  20. You should consider going to the 5/8" master on the front. Reason being, you are now driving eight pistons with the delinked brakes on the front master. The larger bore master will provide more volume to push these pistons. You will lose a little bit of PSI by going to the larger bore, but they will lock up under full application. This thread has some info in it on differences between the various bikes in the area of brake sizes. There are several posts I made with different info in them. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44084 Gary
  21. From what I have encountered, the switches are the same if they came from a cruise equipped bike. Cruise equiped bikes have two sets of contacts in these switches. Non cruise only have one set. I would doubt Earl did any rewiring to put switch in. The end connectors are different from cruise to non-cruise models. There is a difference from the throttle side to the clutch side as far as color codes, but they appear to be wired the same. Not sure about actual cable ends, would seem logical that they be different. Gary
  22. The stock cable ends on the 1st gen cables I have are .232" dia & .313" long with .060" dia wire. This is on carb end. The throttle junction box end is a bit narrower at .158" long. I haven't seen a matching part yet on a web site. Choke & vboost cables are different, don't have them in front of me. The stock cable wires do not appear to go through the end. And I see no tooling marks or solder indications. Gary
  23. Solder won't melt till around 600F. The area I need to redo cable ends is in the middle and rear of carb rack. It shouldn't see anything in excess of 180F. And this is a high guesstimate. Gary
  24. This site has a lot of items, but the cable end is not one of them, at least not an exact match. They also indicate some of the cable ends are a solder connection. I have always been under the impression that solder is not a good mechanical connection. The Venhill site at one point mentioned center punching end, then soldering. Rick Butler sent me the picture attached that is what I am going to try to do with the throttle pull cable at this point. It seems like a fairly straight forward solution. I picked up a split roll pin that the throttle end will slip into. Need to braze a washer to bottom of roll pin to form a perch for the throttle cable then fab up a bracket between the carbs to attach roll pin to. Still leaves me with a snug choke cable mounting point and the desire to be able to extend the vboost mount range. Gary
  25. The VMax doesn't have linked brakes. He needs the reservoir, not the master cylinder. The VMax master cylinder is different. I am not sure if the VMax has the level indicator in it. But that could be bypassed, as long as it was checked once in a while. And I think VMax is somewhat clear plastic. So the level could be seen. Brian, that's what he needs, I am fairly sure. Gary
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