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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Hell, if you feel frisky Goose, I'll let you do a side by side bearing install. I have a new set in the box waiting to go in the old Dinosaur. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/dinosaur.jpg
  2. dingy
    There has been a lot of restoration work done to the building that is remaining. It is on the Historical list. http://www.mrps.org/pages/tours Gary
  3. dingy
    This is a similar picture to what pegscrapper posted but a little more direct in on the end of the cams. Quite a difference in lift & duration. If you put the cams in, springs should be replaced with VMax or there is an HD set that will work also. Gary
  4. dingy
    I just bought a pack of 25, 10mm copper crush washers from McMaster Carr. Cost was $7.61 + $4.39 shipping, total of $12.00. McMaster P/N is 97725A200 for 25. If you are going to do brake work and remove the lines, these should be replaced. The items I received looked identical to what is used on bike. I counted 23 of these washers on my 1st gen. The price at partshark.com was $1.38 each + shipping. Total for 23 would be $31.74 before shipping cost Part # is WASHER,PLATE - 90201-10118-00 Same part # is used on 1st & 2nd gens. Gary
  5. dingy
    I live a couple of miles from there. It is really popular at Halloween. I have never been there, REALLY. Gary
  6. dingy
    Was able to come up with a way to identify internal wiring. We have an Xray machine at work that we use to assist in part failure diagnosis. In picture , to the left are the two terminals, the top terminal has the fine & heavy wire attached to it. Bottom terminal only has the fine wire. Fine wire would be the 13.46K ohm secondary & heavy wire is the 1.4 ohm primary. Gary
  7. dingy
    As far as the motor, they are identical. Few more options on the DL like radio, CLASS system. Just be aware that the carbs are different from after 1986 in regards to the slider you had mentioned earlier. Gary
  8. dingy
    I don't think the man is delusional, He does show as owning five 1st gens. He is well aware of the limits of the 99. Gary
  9. dingy
    Gear backlash is a very precise setting. Every gear housing and related part is machined to within a given tolerance or it would be rejected. The problem comes up when parts are selected that are within tolerance, but one is at low end of tolerance and other is at high end. A common term in engineering for this is Tolerance Stack Up. A tolerance on a given part may be stated at 1.000" +/- .002". This means that parts from .998" to 1.002" are acceptable. What this means is if you have two adjoining parts that are dimensioned as the above example shows, the final dimension for the two parts could be from 1.996" to 2.004", now a variation of .008". This wide off set is statistically small in a given set of parts, most part stack ups will fall in the center of the desired stack up range, this is refered to as a bell curve distribution. The ideal setting for backlash would be calculated at all involved tolerances being machined to the optimal dimension. This is not practical though in a production setting. Factors such as tool sharpness are one that figures into tolerances that can be held. Tolerances can be held to almost any desired set point. The cost rises with increasing precision though. At one point I worked at a GM wheel bearing plant. They bored the bearing races, then ground them, then honed them. This allowed extremely close tolerances, but added significant machining processes. In this case the high precision was required for the wheel bearing, these were not a shim-able assembly. Even the ball bearings were measured precisely, so every bearing had balls in it within microns of each other. The way to compensate for tolerance variations is through the use of shims or different size bearings when parts are assembled. In the case of the engine blocks, the machined bores are individually measured after machining and the cases marked. Same is done with cranks & rod journals. These numbers are used to select the proper bearing from about 7 different sizes. The middle drive gear is also shimmed. this is due to tolerances in block machining as well as the housing for the middle drive, as well as the cuts on the gears. The shim in the final drive is adjusted to take up the variance of at least three parts, one is the ring gear, second is the pinion gear and third is the drive housing, which probably has two or more involved surface tolerances. Gary
  10. dingy
    Here is the 99 RSV service manual section on the rear drive adjustment. Gary
  11. dingy
    Even if you put an upgraded, new starter in, consider doing the internal ground path upgrade. The design Yamaha used for the ground on these starters is crap at best. Here is a picture of what I did to the four brush starter to get the extra ground on it. At the time I didn't have the type of wire I should have used. The wire is silver soldered to top of ground brush holder. Second picture is of wire that I should have used. If I ever get take starter off, I will replace it with this. Gary
  12. dingy
    The fronts look very good, not perfect though. Backs have surface rust. There is a couple of screws missing, I will get at hardware store to replace. $50 and actual shipping. Gary
  13. dingy
    There is a shim in the rear end that comes in varying thicknesses. When you change a gear set out to another case, this shim may need to be changed. In the parts fiche it is called WASHER,THRUST UR 22U-46118-00-xx (five different sizes, 12,14,16,18,20). Attached is a picture of a 99 RSV final drive, call out #18 Gary
  14. dingy
    This is a picture of the wiring harness that was listed at same time as coils. I have tried to contact seller to see if there is a higher resolution copy of this picture available. Coil plugs are the four gray ones in the center of picture I am guessing. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/wiringharnesscbr1000.jpg Thanks for schematic Mike, tried to find one last night with no success. I am on pain killers for bulging disc in back and concentrating is a might tough. Carl questioned if I had ohm checked a bad coil. I have checked all four coils and they all read identical. In the schematic I drew of coil wiring choices, I redid headers, I don't know which way will work. Made them Choice 'A' & Choice 'B' Gary
  15. dingy
    In the schematic, the version on the right (titled Choice 'B') is the way the 1st gen schematics show the coil wiring. Just guessing it won't work the other way. Just don't want to destroy coil testing !! Gary
  16. dingy
    I have a set of Denso COP coils in hand. They came out of a 2007 Honda CBR 1000. This unit would replace the larger coils used on the bike now. 129700-4840 10484 printed on coil end - 08H31 stamped in same area The Ignitech TCI module maker said it would handle the coils lower primary resistance. Going to give these a try on the bike as I am not really happy with where I had to install rear pair of coils. A little other discussion on this at link below. Started a new thread to maybe get some fresh inputs. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58797 All 4 coils primary's measure 1.4 ohms All four coils secondary's measure 13.46K ohms. How do I tell which of the 2 input terminals is the common 12V+ terminal. I can see no markings which indicate internal wiring. My meter is not sensitive enough to differentiate between 13.46K ohms only and 13.46k ohms plus the 1.4 ohms coils in series. Could I just test wire up a circuit. Put plug in & grounded. Put 12v + to one side of coil & 12v - to other side of coil (this attached to plug ground). Open negative side at coil. This seems like it should fire plug. If it does polarity guessed at correct. If not flip polarity at coil pins. It should fire if it didn't before. Schematic shows two wiring choices. Anyone see any fault with this. Picture of COP coil on head is just a random one I came across for an idea what they look like installed. Gary
  17. dingy
    Here is a link to fixing the internal ground path on the starters. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46806 This can also be done to the VMax 4 brush starters, but is a little different procedure. The 4 brush starters don't have as good of a grounding point on the brush plate. Gary
  18. dingy
    Take Carl's word on this. I just completely rebuilt a set of 86 carbs. There is a very remote chance you will be able to get cut gaskets to work for o'rings. There are 5 o'rings in carb and every one is different dia. & thickness. Picture attached of rebuild kit. Gary
  19. dingy
    Just an FYI post. I emailed Ignitech with a couple of questions about the TCI & the response I got back. My question in blue, the response is below that. I attached map file they sent as a zipped file, this will only work on V80 of the updated software. Gary Will a 4 channel TCIP4 drive a 12Vdc Servo motor? VMax Vboost gerard motor is what I want to operate. Will unit be harmed by using Denso COP coils @ 1.5 ohms? I am currently using V80 of software Gary --------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, Yes, 4channel TCIP4 can drive 12Vdc servo motor. Connection to servo motors Yamaha: Yamaha wire color TCIP4 pin Description black/brown 4 motor black/red 5 motor white/black 7 or 16 or 14 sensor ground yellow/blue 17 +5V supply for sensor white/red 18 servo position sensor Right setting you must find yourself. In enclosure is V-max setting modified for servo and use COP coils. Regards. Jiri Krejzl IGNITECH
  20. dingy
    If anyone wants a wiring diagram to power the both projector lights while on high beam PM me. I eliminated reserve lighting unit, jumpered CMU, put one relay in to switch hi/lo and another relay to kill headlight when cranking. Power for headlights no longer runs through stock harness. This is complex change, but does provide full voltage to headlights. Wouldn't do this to a stock bulb, running both elements at same time will overheat and kill bulb. Gary
  21. dingy
    Heat should not be a problem. My stock 83 had chrome covers that blocked that opening off tight. They are for sale if anyone is interested. Gary
  22. dingy
    I say we just take the batteries out of Carl's hearing aids. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/optical.gif
  23. dingy
    Its your call on the fiber plates, but... I am still running the original set in mine. Even with the extra HP from the modifications, it does not slip. I am sorta partial to the MKII setup, but it requires an MKII pressure plate, new diaphram spring and an MKII clutch side cover. MKI cover will not fit over an MKII internal's. If you put the MKII on and arent happy with a stock spring, you can increase it to a PCW, or double the stock springs. Measure your fiber plates, if in the mid or high end of spec, use them. Gary
  24. dingy
    As has been posted numerous times in this thread, the rotor/flywheel MUST be changed. It only has one magnet on the 90-93 version and is most likely oriented in a different location than the 83-89 two magnet rotor. Gary
  25. dingy
    I just sent a preliminary head count to restaurant telling them to expect 100-130 people. If that many don't show up, I lied. If more show up, they will find room. They have a page on their site for planning events, hope it works this year, last year turned out OK, but night shift wasn't expecting a group of the size we had. Gary
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