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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I have neither of the kits being discussed. I went with a third option which is referred to as the 'Double D' mod. It uses two stock pressure diaphragms stacked from an MKII style clutch. The half plate is replaced with a full plate and the diaphragm spring seat is omitted. It is, in my opinion this is the one with the least slippage potential, but this does come at a price. It takes a LOT of lever force to pull. I would not recommend it for the 'normal' rider, if there is such a thing, due to the lever pull. I find myself shifting into neutral if I know I am going to be stopped at a light for a while sometimes. I also replaced lines with S.S. braided hoses. I just had the motor back out, for some more upgrades this winter & the friction plates had not worn even a .001" from last year, with about 6,000 miles on them. Gary
  2. dingy
    I would suggest you read post #8 in this thread. And as Goose said, I am sure PCW will help, that is if you have trouble from 8-5 Mon-Fri. And I wasn't knocking HF tools, I just got the 3/8" torque they sell, I suggested that the reviews are read and be forewarned to pre-check this tool. I have a lot of HF stuff, it is buyer beware. Gary
  3. dingy
    As far as the PCW name, there is no argument here. What is interesting is that some have recommended using the PCW supplied spring kit only. They want $69.95 for the kit plus shipping. Skydoc17 will sell you the same PCW spring and the rest in genuine Yamaha parts for $80.00 including shipping. And he will include full step by step instructions. Saving a couple of bucks or helping one of the people who contribute a lot to this site. I know which one I would choose. I am fairly sure Earl will be there to help you on the phone when things don't go as planned. Look at the customer reviews on Harbor Freight's site regarding these wrenches, more so the 3/8", but also the 1/4" There have been more than a few say the wrench didn't click off when used and they snapped the first fastener off. Gary
  4. dingy
    Now didn't FreeDird just write a long post about Kumbaya and all that stuff. And here you two go wantin to open a can of Whoop Ass. Have at it. Gary
  5. dingy
    I got a set for mine too !! Baby's starting to look a little better. Gary
  6. dingy
    What weight oil did you put in forks? Gary
  7. dingy
    Trust me on the following, I am experienced in adding cruise to an 83. If you are thinking a stock cruise unit then you need to start thinking a new wiring harness. You will need a new clutch, front and rear brake switches. A cruise electronics module, a vacuum pump, a bellows unit. Different throttle cable joint probably. Need either a pod above the handle bars (where key go in), or a different instrument cluster, these two depend on year you get. Also need a different throttle side control switch. Also in your case, you have an 83, you will need all 4 throttle cables from an MKII, the ends on the 83 cables at the junction box are different, won't work with the cruise setup. Be afraid, very afraid. This is what I set out to do to my bike a couple of years ago. It was a content 1200 Venture at that point. Now look at it. A throttle locker is a friggin lot cheaper. Doesn't have near the pucker factor as where I am now, but the old lady will accept a $20 mod a lot easier. Gary
  8. dingy
    OK, I am not trying to be snippy here, but... Why in God's name would someone want to do that., That is one of the good things about the 1st gens. The motor has some get up and go. On a less snippy note. Due to the finned side covers on the 2nd gen, I don't think the motor would look good in a 1st gen. Saying this because due to head change, these don't seem like they would work. And without them, the block would look less finished. Gary
  9. dingy
    You know that can be laser removed. Just sayin !! Gary
  10. dingy

    Mugshots

    dingy replied to Reddog170's topic in Picture Folder

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44005 Try this. Gary
  11. dingy
    Well, how did it go?? Gary
  12. dingy
    I looked into listing my Steering Ring Nut Wrench on Amazon and it appears I have to be a Professional Seller in order to do it. This is because there is no other listing for the wrench currently on Amazon that I could find. A regular seller does not appear to be able to create a new item. Is this accurate? Professional Seller is $39.99 a month. I don't think it would be worth that to me to list them on there. Any way around this? Gary
  13. dingy
    Go lay down for a while Dan. You will be OK. Gary
  14. dingy
    OK I'll try to be better !! I will cut down on the snippy RSV comments. Gary
  15. dingy
    Maybe Beaver Sandwich Gary
  16. dingy
    You got some elbow grease in those side covers !! Nice looking scoot. Gary
  17. dingy
    Here's what your gonna get. Not bad tools, magnetic tip, grip could stand some texturing on it, somewhat slippery. There ain't much of a difference in the tip though. Gary
  18. dingy
    Good Luck Bobby !! Gary Best icon I could find !!
  19. dingy
    I didn't do that !! It came that way from McMaster. Gary
  20. dingy
    OK, under the coils it is for the battery. Looked at it some more tonight, and with the pictures Rick sent me (again, wish I could remember half what I forgot) I think I can do it. Will take a little McGyvering, but I have access to a sheet metal bender at work. I was concerned about mounting the VBoost motor, but it looks like it will work OK in the left fairing pocket. I also don't need the stock pressure boost sensor, I am using a MAP sensor with the Ignitech TCI. So that opens it up some more under there. Gary
  21. dingy
    Kinda makes me wish I hadn't specified my index finger, that is the long one right. If so it's looks fine. I have a wonderful picture that shows my finger is just fine !! I almost posted it, but I don't want to get my own thread censored. Gary
  22. dingy
    I can wrap it around my index finger without damaging it, it straightens right back out on its own. Gary
  23. dingy
    You are correct Squeeze. I have no idea of history with them. What I am basing my position of the 34mm for the MKI's and 35mm for the MKII's & VMax's is also borne out by the slider part numbers. The 83-85 use P/N 41R-14940-09-00 (replaces 41R-14940-00-00). In 1986 and through 1993 the p/n was 1FK-14940-09-00 (replaces 1FK-14940-00-00) The Vmax used p/n 1FK-14940-09-00 (replaces 1FK-14940-00-00) from 1985 through at least 2007. Since the carb slider (called the Diaphragm Assy in parts fiche) would follow the venturi size, I think my info is correct. This is of course based on US models, not sure what was sold in Europe, but I seem to recall that the VMax was detuned for there. Gary
  24. dingy
    Got the 4 gauge welding cable today for the battery cables. You could jump start a semi with this stuff. A standard ground cable is shown beside it in picture. Yes, it's orange, that's the only color they had the heavy duty 4 gauge cable in. Black heat shrink will fix that. Standard cable has 378 thicker strands in it, this has 1045 finer strands. Electricity mainly flows along the surface of a wire, so the finer strands are better overall conductors. McMaster Carr has it. Had to get 10ft, that's minimum order. $2.82 a foot. 10 terminals were $8.03. Wanted to get a set of the JIS standard screwdrivers and McMaster was only place I could find them, none locally. Placed order last night around 5:00pm and got stuff at 6:00pm tonight with standard shipping rates. Gary
  25. dingy
    Measurements from 1987 Venture carbs Bottom I.D. of carb 1.375" (34.92mm) Bottom O.D. of carb 1.651" (41.93mm) Measurements from 1983 Venture carbs Bottom I.D. of carb 1.335" (33.90mm) Bottom O.D. of carb 1.648" (41.85mm) 1st picture is of 83 carb base, note straight O.D. 2nd picture is of 87 carb base, note chamfer on O.D. I am looking at these two side by side and there is no difference that I can really see, other than chamfer. Gary
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