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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. Why don't the two of you just get a room somewhere and be done with it. Give it up old man, you are never going to beat a southern redhead at what she does best. Gary
  2. Good Lord Charlie, yet another political thread. Didn't you learn anything from that last embarrassing episode. Gary
  3. I don't think so. By saying it is on the #4 side, do you mean the inboard side? If so that is not where it is located on my, now retired 83 carbs, shown in picture above. Gary
  4. Well, now I don't see where I thought I saw that. It was at the heading of one of the pictures. And I went to the spec page and it says it is a dual overhead valves which would be a four stroke. So I must be getting worse on the Oldtimers crap. http://www.motusmotorcycles.com/kmv4.html Gary
  5. I bought a set at Wal-mart two years ago, they were listed as 4" on packaging and they fit right in. Know this doesn't answer your question, but it was close. Gary
  6. Looks to be in nice shape. Low mileage, if it has 47K Gary
  7. It looked exciting until I realized it was a two-stroke. Just prefer four-strokes for some reason. It probably has a boatload of torque though. Gary
  8. Did for me ! ! Gary
  9. Your profile doesn't show any of your information, in particular what bike you have. First time I have seen that here. Is it top secret ? ? Gary
  10. Picture is where I have a TCI on my bike now, it is wrapped in an anti static device to keep from interfering with radio as much. I don't use this one, it is just there in case the Ignitech unit fails. I will probably take it out before bike goes back together anyways. I got a new wire harness end for the Ignitech TCI, so I am going to eliminate the crossover harness they supplied, so the harness would not plug into a stock one anyways. This would be in the area that a radio and amp normally occupy. The other place that is convenient, in on top of the air filter cover, located right up against the battery box. This requires the front facing tab on the TCI to be cut off for clearance. Gary
  11. Here are a couple of pictures. First is of my 83 carb rack, looking into the port in question. It has the red cap on it. Still there because I didn't use the 83 TCI this year. This view is looking forward, to what would be the left, front carb. Bottom of carb rack is oriented down in picture. Second picture is what a carb body looks like that does not have this port. It would be at the dimple in the center of the shot, below and to left of big phillips head screw. Gary
  12. Attached are the pertinent pages referencing the RSV switch bypass and also another thread on this site dealing with this. Gary
  13. Attached is a screen capture of thr RSV switch. When the key is in the On position, the switch jumpers the Red, Brown/Black and Brown/Blue wires together through two contacts. One set of contacts is on a fixed switch plate and the other set is on the movable keyed portion. This movable keyed portion is common to all the circuits. In other words, when the key is rotated to the Accy positin, the same moveable contacts are used, but a different set on the fixed switch plate. Generally the Accy current draw will be much less than the On position. So the fixed plate contacts should be OK. If the moveable contacts are damaged both the On & the Accy positions will be effected. But since current draw is less in Accy, it will probably function OK. When the bypass is installed, the Brown/Blue wire coming out of the switch is under much less current draw, since most of current is passing through the bypass relay. Only current needed to operate relay passes through switch for On circuit functions. Gary
  14. Look at the thread linked next. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150 Towards the end of the PDF file attached to the first post in this thread is a very detailed explination of the bypassing of the switch while still retaing key start functions. It is titled RSV switch bypass (close to this) Gary
  15. That looks fubared. Gary
  16. That port is in the correct spot for a 1983 TCI. I didn't think any carb but the 83's had that port. Is this a California model by chance. Can't recommend you remove your pollution devices for fear of the tree huggers getting me, but if it were mine, the garbage can would be heavier. Gary
  17. Here is the link to the wiring diagram for your 1st Gen. 86-87 Yamaha Venture DS Wiring Diagram Rev D.pdf Here is the same diagram in a simplified format. 86-89 Yamaha Venture Simplified Circuit Diagram Rev D.pdf Gary
  18. This is the only thing I have found at the moment. One is for an RSV hook up & another is a generic trailer wiring diagram. It's a start. Gary
  19. Think more along the lines of a Mardi Gra carnival. People start showing up Thursday, and some don't sober up enough to ride out until Sunday. 220 +/- bikes last year. It's less of a M/D than it is a bull****ting festival. It was fun. Gary
  20. If you lock the steering on it, they are only going to ride in very tight circles even if they do figure out how to start it with the bypass installed. Gary
  21. It's gotta be a 2nd Gen ! ! He did call it a toy.. And if it only took 30 minutes, the PO must have wanted it gone. Gary
  22. Sounds like it might work. When I installed the dual head lights, I just jumpered out the reed switch on the CMOS for the Hi & Low beams. This eliminated my warning CMOS light and it allowed me to directly wire the headlight power to them and remove the voltage drop inherent in the light gauge wire in the stock system. Gary
  23. Brake lights work when you jumper from brake switch to connector? correct. This eliminates light housing and three pin connector. Next there is a 6 pin connector under seat on left side. It should be a Yellow/Black wire from the three pin to the six pin connectors. Check continuity at this one. Next stop is the CMOS connector, looks like center top pin is Yellow/Black. Feeding into the CMOS from the brake circuits, it is a Yellow wire. Looks like bottom row, second in. You should read 12V+ when brakes are activated on this one. Only thing left is inside the CMOS. I have pictures that show bypassing the reed switches if you have to. Gary
  24. Just posted this in the same forum you posted this B.S. Dangerous, No ...Ludicrous, Yes You would be trying to get the zip tie head in the valve opening while totally blind to position, dropping down through plug hole about 2", then rotating zip tie to where it was perfectly aligned, then rotate crank to capture zip tie while holding zip tie in place that you can't see.. Now I think you and your buddy have been smokin something a lot stronger than marlboro's. Anything is possible though. A monkey with a machine gun while eventually spell out the constitution given enough ammo. Let us know how this works out for you. BTW the tool is only $65 from Thunder Valley, see it in the classifieds. Gary
  25. Dangerous, No ...Ludicrous, Yes You would be trying to get the zip tie head in the valve opening while totally blind to position, dropping down through plug hole about 2", then rotating zip tie to where it was perfectly aligned, then rotate crank to capture zip tie while holding zip tie in place that you can't see.. I think your buddy has been smokin something a lot stronger than marlboro's. Anything is possible though. A monkey with a machine gun while eventually spell out the constitution given enough ammo. Let us know how this works out for you. BTW the tool is only $65 from Thunder Valley, see it in the classifieds. Gary
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