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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. You might be able to put the motor out of the Max in the RSV and have the best of both worlds. And no fake air cooling fins. !! Gary
  2. For the members using the Ignitech unit: There is a new version of the TCIP4 software and guide posted on the Ignitech site. It would not download for me from the page titled downloads. Said Reauested document not found. I did find a working link on another page of the site. Go to the link here on their site to get it. Both of these links will start download right away from Ignitechs site directly !! TCIP4.EXE (version 80) Detailed description version 80 (Acrobat Reader) This version updates the *****.ign file that is programmed into the module. Once it is opened and then saved with this version, the old version of the software will not open it. You will get a warning box when you first open ****.ign files saying it is an older version and some parameters that are new are being set to default values. I have not tried this new version in bike because it is not in any condition for that now. Gary
  3. Holy crap, I might loose my self imposed title of 'PICTURE FAIRY' Nice pictures, they do help people. Gary
  4. Here are the pages from the service manual if you don't have one. Gary
  5. Here are a few other threads I found. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47573 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44668 Gary
  6. Below are two links, first one is a writeup by V7Goose on the steering head bearings on an RSV. Second is a shameless plug for the tool that Yamaha recommends to use when you service the bearings. This one is $23, Yamaha's is only around $70. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41310&highlight=rsv+grease+steering http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54654 Gary
  7. I have found a good use for the Fram filters. I bought 2 OEM filters from partshark & they didn't come with O-rings. The big one is $6.01 & small one is $1.07. I am going to go get a Fram, which does come with the rings, get them out of box & through the filter away. Gary
  8. I don't think as good as Seafoam is, it will loosen a stuck float. Gary
  9. This connector would only affect the firing of the plugs. If you could check plug fire after front end has heated up & verify, they are firing you could ignore this item. If you are sure it is a fuel problem, this is probably not involved. Sounds more like stuck floats. Gary
  10. I don't have an RSV, but here goes... The rear two cylinders have a distinct difference at one point from the front two cylinders in that they go through a wire harness connector marked as 'C'. I don't know where this connector is at. It is a 3 pin connector, this is only circuits in it. Here is a link to the wiring schematics for your bike. 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf Gary
  11. Since one connector is a three pin & the other is a two pin I will take that bet, and raise you a set a fake cooling fin side covers. But, yes, you are correct, it probably could be made to work with enough farting around. Both 1st Gen & 2nd Gen tie the wires together, a jumper here, a splice there, a little Blue Magic Smoke. There are several on ebay that are for a 1st gen. One of them is even New, Old Stock. Ebay item # 180626822239 Gary
  12. Also looked at the wiring diagrams. The RSV uses a 2 wire switch. The 85 Fast Venture uses a 3 wire switch. Gary
  13. 99 RSV P/N SWITCH, SIDE STAND 3LD-82566-50-00 85 Fast Venture SWITCH,SIDE STAND 26H-82566-00-00 C/O partshark.com Gary
  14. Damn, Are we good or what ?
  15. This was from last year, I used a clear coat on them. It was uncoated in picture. Gary
  16. Here is buffer I made. Dirty, haven't used since last spring. It is a one HP centrifugal pump style motor & bracket. It has an adapter shaft that was made for a centrifugal pump application. I have two sets of buffing wheels I swap back & forth. One I use courser grits with & other I use with Mothers buffing compound. Bolts down to work bench. The stator cover in 2nd picture was tarnished quite a bit. I first chemically stripped clear coat, this makes it so much easier to polish. Then started with 320 grit up to 1000 grit paper. Then buffed with several grades of polish. Gary
  17. Yes I did and it cost you $5 US. It was not overtightened, it was over loosened. Unlike Marcarl's recent experience with getting the flywheel to pop off the crankshaft, I had a lot of difficulty getting the bolt out of the crank holding the flywheel on. I did not remove the rotor while motor was still in bike because I wanted to pull heads first and look in there before deciding on next course of action. If I would have pulled it then, I could have locked crank rotation through transmission. When I got to point of pulling rotor only way I could hold crank from rotating was to lock clutch basket down. As I said the bolt was not wanting to come off. 1/2" impact and breaker bar did not work. What I end up doing to break bolt loose was to put an old wrench on it and hit wrench with hammer to impart a shock to bolt to loosen. This worked to free rotor bolt after several attempts. During one of these attempts, the clutch basket tool loosened, allowing the crank to turn when I struck wrench. The camshaft chain was then caught between the crank & case which broke the tooth off the crank. Fortunately, I have a spare crank here that came out of my 1200 that will be used to replace the damaged one. P/N's are the same, which surprised me. A couple of lesson were learned here. One, don't get frustrated and go overboard (have had to relearn this one more than once). Two, always keep those old parts, never know when they may come in handy. Back to the reference to Marcarls getting his flywheel off. I put the puller on mine, tightened it up, and hit end of puller stud with hammer twice and it came off. Actually, startled me when it popped, my 1200 took a lot more persuasion to come off. Anyways, block is at machine shop getting milled, heads are disassembled getting cleaned today, new valve stem seals going in. Most all of the parts are here to put motor back together. I also got parts to replace the shifter segment while I was at it to prevent that from failing. I shift this thing like a baby, so that would never have been a problem though. Carbs are going to be ready soon, I replaced a lot of parts in these, diaphragms, every replaceable jet, o-ring & gaskets. Dyna jet stage 1 VMax jet kit going in. VBoost is ready. I am going to control it with the Ignitech TCI. I may end up having to get one of the new technology lithium cell batteries in order to be able to put the VMax air box in. Really want that in there, but it to big to work with the standard size battery. Gary
  18. It is a cam gear tooth. Gary
  19. I have found what appears to be a tooth off a gear in my oil pan. Very small tooth, but I think it is that due to the profile on the sides. It has equal angles very similar to a gear tooth. I haven't started going through all the possible parts yet, just found it and it is late. Width is about .167" (across beveled faces) About .215" tall One guess is maybe cam tensioner? What else in there a gear this small? Brain is not putting a place to this piece. Gary
  20. Just my opinion here but... Putting a 25mm in the hole will not help, in fact may not work at all. I have attached a few pictures below. The bolt penetrates the cylinder nut pocket just above the shoulder on the nut. It is off center with the center line of the head stud. The 20mm already is overlapping the shoulder of the nut. I think that a 25mm will actually hit the O.D. of the nut, thus not allowing it to clamp down on the intake manifold. The 1st picture shows hole in question, upper left on intake boss. And to the top of the picture you can see the head stud pocket going through the bottom of the left cam journal. The 2nd picture has a red arrow pointing to where this hole enters the stud cavity. The third picture shows a head retaining nut setting on head. Imagine this nut setting down in the pocket in picture #2. The 16mm bolt is adequate, it is just a matter of sealing it. Gary
  21. I don't think a 20mm bolt will effect the sealing much if any. It looked like the 20mm screws where sticking into hole about 2mm when I pulled head, so screw would be set back about 2mm if a 16mm where used. I don't have a good product spec to suggest, but I would want something that has a thick consistency, rather than an RTV. There is a black gasket sealer, I think it might be called Permatex, but not sure. I would be generous with the amount used. A little sealer coming out of hole once is better than constantly weeping oil leak. Also, I would only coat threads of screw with sealer and not force any into hole. This might cause excess to be forced inside head. Gary
  22. This isn't an oil galley that has been broken through. It is just a head nut pocket. Yes, oil is in there, but it is not a flow path. My concern about putting a set screw in the bottom of the hole would be the length that it would take up. If this were to be done, the already shorter bolt that go in these two holes would then be quite a bit shorter. You might run the risk of not having enough engagement length and stripping out threads in the head. Gary
  23. Between a crush washer on top & RTV between the intake manifold head & cylinder head it might seal. If you didn't seal between the head & intake though it might weep through there. The intake O-Ring is inside of the screws. Gary
  24. I learned about this problem from the VMax site last week. Over there they thought the official Yamaha bolt had a ring of RTV around it. There are two socket head screws in the intakes that go into the oil galley. One shorter on each head! cylinder number 2 (left front) and cylinder number 3 (right rear). upper outboard holes. 20mm long for 6 of the socket head screws and 16mm long for the 2 shorter ones. These socket head screws protrude into the pocket that the special nut for the cylinder head stud sets into. It was mentioned to clean the screw and hole as good as you can to get a clean surface for the RTV or a tiny dab of ultra black to adhere to. When I removed my heads this week, I found I had put 20mm screws where the 16mm one should have been and the head nut caught on the longer screws when I was removing them. Gary
  25. I just needed to fix the link that I mentioned above due to my own incompetence. What I did on this since I realized I had wrong item linked to after I had revised text in thread was to go on ebay, copy link, log out of ebay then paste link in thread being edited. This worked and I did not log off this site, due to editing I had already done to erroneous info in post. Gary
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