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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy

    Hey Bongo

    Wrong Answer. Gary
  2. Something else that may help is to reverse the order that you are putting them on the grip. Whatever one you have on now, take it off and put other one on first and see if that helps. Gary
  3. If you can't get them until after you ship out, it may help if someone would shoot a little penetrating oil or Rust Buster in there once in awhile while you are gone. Also, use a screwdriver that fits the slot of the mixture screw snugly, even if you have to grind the sides down on one to get it to fit into hole. Sorry, about brain fart on previous post, I just always call them needle jets. I am the Forum idiot though. Gary
  4. Have the motor out of the scooter do do a few enhancements on it and had a problem last night. I was able to get 15 of the 16 head studs out of the block, and literally the last one I went to do would not budge with a double nut setup. Put Red Loctite on nuts and let it cure over night, and still wasn't budging. A little more torque with a pipe wrench and it let go. I was getting concerned. Never used Loctite to disassemble something before. Gary
  5. dingy

    Hey Bongo

    You got a present coming. First one to guess what it is, beside you, gets something to be determined later. Won't be much though. Gary
  6. His post says it is an 89, so I don't think Barnett makes springs for this bike. Only MKI's had the coil springs, they went to the disc clutch in 86. Depends on how much clutch you want. There is an upgrade a step above what Skydoc_17 is selling, but is does increase clutch lever pull. Its what I have in my 1300/VMax bike, and it does not slip. You double up on a standard clutch spring plate. Put two of them in. Gary
  7. It may be true, but I remember this joke from 30 years or so ago. Gary
  8. What might help is to block the carbs at about half throttle. Pull the left side cover and you will be able to see carb linkage. Use a small piece of wood to block linkage arm between the front and rear carb from going all the way shut. May have someone use a screwdriver as a block while you work on cables at handle bar. Next option isn't real pretty. You have to pull the left front fairing and the inner fairing to get at the cruise control throttle cable junction box and split cables there. But if you got them off without doing this, then blocking carbs open should work. Gary
  9. I think Micarl posted recently that he roughens up O.D. of seal up & that gets enough offset to get them to stick. Gary
  10. Read all the posts in the thread below. It describes what you can and can't do with various TCI for 1st gens. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50354 Gary
  11. Gary, If you are convinced it is leaking at that point, there are three suspects. 1) O-ring that goes around the middle gear bearing housing. 2) The spacer/expansion seal that goes around the middle drive shaft. 3) The rear differential is leaking through the pinion shaft mating surface and the oil is showing up at the front of the swing arm tube. Gary
  12. I just measured front pipe from my 83 set and they are almost identical to what was given for the VMax set. Gary
  13. Here is the question and reply I got from a guy on the VMax site. Gary /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Does anyone have a front header pipe off the bike and a set of calipers that would get a measurement for me. I am looking for the I.D. at the head end of a front pipe. Thanks, Gary http://www.vmaxforum.net/disturbed/images/icons/icon1.gif Re: Need a measurement from a front header pipe The stocker's are stepped. I got 1.47 on the flange and 1.36 on the pipe.
  14. Earl, Are you dyslexic or am I? The part number I used from partshark.com is 1J7-13441-10-00 and it went through OK. Gary
  15. CH6002 24933 ML16802 1.583 3.957 0.772 CH6003 24934 ML16803 1.441 2.996 0.768 If these are the numbers you are talking about, you should look at them again. 4th column is width, close to an 1/8" 5th column is diameter, almost an 1" Id is close enough for the girls I know. No way I put that filter in my motor. Not to save $8., but it's your bike. Gary
  16. There has to be a difference in the filter. A manufacturer will not carry two p/n for the same item. Length, diameter, grommet size, filter pressure rating, etc., something is different. $15 is cheap if it protects motor. I would rather have the NAPA filter to start with. They are under $10 for the last two I got. I just ordered a bunch of stuff from partshark & I got two OEM's from them for under $6 each though. Gary
  17. I will post on the VMax site and see if I can get an answer. Gary
  18. Hey Snag, How much did they charge you for shipping? I didn't see it on the web site. Gary
  19. Here are a few of pictures I have of a stock VMax exhaust. Gary
  20. I have been having an ongoing discussion on the VMax site about this. Three problems have come up. 1) The VMaxs do not have a mono shock. So the area behind the rear header tubes is much more open on the VMax's than on the Ventures. The rear header pipes on a VMax cross over each other. There is not room to do this on a Venture. 2) More than likely, the center stand would interfer on a Venture with the VMax pipes. Center stand could be eliminated. 3) The upward angle of the mufflers may interfer with the saddle bags on the Ventures. This might be overcome by cutting pipes, reconfiguring angle & rewelding. Item #1 might be overcome by the use of a Kerker header, one of the guys is going to check on this at some point. The collector is completly different on a Vmax than a Venture, it is an all or nothing change. The Vmax's still have the double walled front headers, so there may not be much difference there. I have not yet got an ID of the front header pipes. In my opinion the main restriction on the Venture is the mufflers. The collector is not nearly as restrictive as the mufflers. I have removed all but the very foward baffle in mine. It is louder, but not near what I would refer to as Harley loud. Gary
  21. Computer stuff (CAD Drafting for fun) Harrasing grandkids Constantly tinkering with bike Helping & harrasing people on here Gary
  22. Yet another post with inuendo's in it. Mating (what's another word for ??) Ice hole (1st wife had one of these) When will it all stop. Gary
  23. As long its Happy in a GAY Way See what happens when you sell a perfectly good Venture (well maybe not perfect, it was a second gen), and buy an FJR. You start getting irritated by the littlest things. Gary
  24. I did not make a statement one way or the other the use or possibilities of this product. I find myself agreeing with V7Goose's position, but I have also seen evidence they work. Wheel balancing isn't that hard, once balanced they are good to go. They don't generally change. Seems like doing the new way offers no significant improvement over the old solution of using lead weights. But there are always ideas out there that are not accepted by the mainstream group of users, no matter what the field or application. Sometimes these ideas take time to mature to reach there maximum potential. The thing I don't understand about the dyna bead concept is that every time the wheel stops turning, the beads would fall to the bottom due to gravity. Then each time would seem to have to redistribute themselves when rotation starts again. This just seems like there is going to be a time period where the wheel is unbalanced due to the beads have not yet found the 'Happy Spot' again. I just thought the idea of finding a low cost alternative to the beads was an interesting approach. I also knew there was significant polarization on views of this product and the ensuing discussion would be spirited. Gary
  25. Not really a blooper either, but Mrs. Cleaver telling Mr. Cleaver "Ward, you were a little hard on the Beaver last night" Gary
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