Jump to content

MiCarl

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,442

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    It makes it real hard. I missed it too. I went to the 2nd gen to search by part number and just happened to notice them there.
  2. MiCarl
    You're not finding them because they are studs and nuts. Furthermore the studs are not drawn, but indicated in the lower drawing of the crankcase fiche. #8 & #9 in the crankcase fiche: 90116-10411-00 BOLT, STUD #30 in the cylinder head fiche: 90179-10414-00 NUT
  3. MiCarl
    Dan's got you beat. The first gen has an idiot light and an indicator that says "Hey idiot, side stand is down." You had the advantage of flying blind:rotf:
  4. MiCarl
    No resistance sounds like a problem with the hydraulics. Even a shot clutch will have resistance. BTW, 99 is a second generation.
  5. MiCarl
    Hunting and boating.
  6. MiCarl
    Both rides were in Plymouth. Was real tempting to run the sled down the hill into Hines Park, but I was a bit worried an ambitious LEO might follow the tracks back to the shop.
  7. MiCarl
    I took a short ride today. Now I can say I rode a snowmobile and a motorcycle in the same place in the same week.
  8. MiCarl
    My only thought is that she may be leaning back and hauling herself up with her arms. As others have said she needs to be in close to the bike.
  9. MiCarl
    It wouldn't worry me. In fact I'm more concerned when the mileage is too low. My feeling is that one that is ridden is likely to be better maintained than one that is slowly rotting in the back of the garage.
  10. MiCarl
    And he's **Almost** always right. If you end up with one of the very few that needs it and didn't you're going to be in a world of hurt.
  11. MiCarl
    Yamaha does show all sizes discontinued. Are you sure it's the rings? Did you do a wet test or leakdown test to pinpoint the problem?
  12. MiCarl
    It didn't work with my 1st gen. I think you have to get them set up while the mileage is still low or they'll turn out unreliable.
  13. MiCarl
    It's a bit pricey to build a shim kit for individual use. You'd need a very large selection of shims to cover your possibilities and you'll end up using about three of them. There is a kit someone assembled that is floating around somewhere. I think the idea is that you pay shipping and replace any shims you use. Not sure where it is currently. If you're not going to use the kit that is floating around I recommend you check them first. If they're in spec. you can spend your $$ on something else. If they're out the economic thing to do is get the tool first then order shims after you figure out what you need. You'd have an extra shipping charge but you'd save hundreds by not buying shims you don't need. The expensive part of the deal (other than the volume of shims involved in a complete kit) is the tool. I sell it to VentureRider members for $65.68. I believe that is the cheapest price anywhere. Z1 enterprises beats my member price on most of their shims, some they're selling below my current cost. I suspect they have a quantity of shims on hand and they're only updating their pricing as they have to replace them. Their shipping is high though, so unless you buy a lot of shims my price will be competitive overall. If you decide to buy from me you need to enter "VentureRider" in the coupon box at check out to receive the 15% member discount. You can find the shims and tools here: Thunder Valley Powersports I switched to PayPal for my payment processing last night. If you try to use it and have problems please let me know. When I looked up the link for you the site was slow. It's usually pretty quick but runs on a shared server so occasionally one of my neighbors slows me down. My apologies if you find it slow.
  14. MiCarl
    I have a suggestion for an improvement. I used to use a similar set up, except it was mounted on a bench. I also put a hole in a length of 2x2 and used a nut to run it down the all thread. I could tuck the end of a spoon under it to hold the starting point as I worked my way around. I could also put the spoon out under the end to hold the bead down as I worked a new tire on. http://xjbikes.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10730/thirdhand2.jpg It's been awhile since I used it. I think that extra block probably gave me something to tighten against so it didn't spin or cock up. I was able to get rid of that pesky third arm and hand that made it really hard to buy shirts.
  15. MiCarl
    I don't believe the process is automated. After your payment goes through Freebird has to manually update your information for the site. It can take a few days for that to happen. If it gets to be a week then sic yer dawg on him.
  16. MiCarl
    Nope, the side cover doesn't have anything to do with it. The big magnet in the rotor will fight you trying to pull it off. If you got it at all loose you might end up with an oil leak if you don't clean it up and replace the gasket. Unfortunately, to get the starter off you're going to have to get the thermostat housing out of the way. As a practical matter this means pulling the radiator too. You're sure you have a good battery in there? You can hear the starter relay click? Battery voltage tests 12.5V + AFTER you try to engage the starter?
  17. MiCarl
    As soon as that battery cools down you need to get it on a charger (2A for 12 hours), most tenders won't charge a deeply discharged battery. If it spends any time deep discharged it'll be junk for sure. If it's low on electrolyte just add enough distilled water to cover the plates - the water level will rise as it charges. Bring it up to normal level (if you need to) after it charges. Once the button is unstuck I'd try it. If it'll crank normally you know that the commutator and windings are probably ok. If not have the battery checked out. If the battery is good you probably have a major starter rebuild in your future. Finally, I'd have a look at the starter brushes to make sure they still had usable length.
  18. MiCarl
    Looks like you got a deal. You can leave it in Kms, or scrounge up a U.S. cluster. A heat gun or the wife's blow dryer should help get the stickers off.
  19. MiCarl
    It's supposed to be hard. Make sure it works when pushing the bike, then don't worry about it. Brake reservoirs should be mostly full. Clutch reservoir will rise as the clutch wears so it should be near the minimum level.
  20. MiCarl
    I used this once and was pretty happy with it. I've also used Kreem. I think the Caswell is probably a better product where you have leaks and it's less likely to damage the paint. I had two challenges with the Caswell. First it's clear so it can be challenging to see if you've got coverage. Also, I was a bit below their recommended temperature range and it flowed very slowly. I only mixed half the kit, which is all that's required for a small tank. If I had it to do over again I'd have mixed it all so I had more to slosh around in the tank and just discard the extra.
  21. MiCarl
    If we're dunkin' mini we just need a 55 gal drum, length of 2x4 and a brick to counter balance her. Knock the brick off and win!
  22. MiCarl
    That bracket is for a tie down strap. As best as I can recall: The reflector/turn signal can stay on the bag. You do need to remove the lamp socket from the bottom. You need to unbolt the chrome trim (3 screws I think). There are 2 cap screws through the bottom of the bag. There are two cap screws through the side of the bag toward the rear wheel. If you have the optional trim with marker lights there is a carriage bolt that goes in from near the license plate with a nut on the inside of the bag. Once it's all unbolted there is a rib toward the rear wheel that hangs up on the black plastic trim under the seat. You'll have to pull that trim to get the bag out (3 screws).
  23. MiCarl
    You can see the 2nd gear problem illustrated in the back dog (which is slightly out of focus) in Dano's first picture (which is actually 5th gear). On the right side of it you can see the undercut angle that is supposed to pull the gears together. On the left you can see it rounded off. The dog should be symmetric. You can't see it in the picture, but the slots in the 2nd gear are probably also rounded. Aw heck. Went ahead and drawed on the picture. Hope you don't mind Dano.
  24. MiCarl
    The H is the speed rating (130mph). H is pretty much standard so it's often omitted. The MU90 is an older tire size spec. It's roughly equivalent to 140/90. The B means it's belted. http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tires/tire-data.htm
  25. MiCarl
    It can be tough. They seem to be geared to resolving connection problems with the client configuration rather than their equipment and lines. I had a problem with AT&T where about 20% of the web sites I accessed were often extremely slow. It was faster to get to them through a proxy in Argentina. After some work on my own I identified an AT&T router in Texas that was frequently dropping 80% of its packets. Any site that was on that path was unreliable. Wanna guess how many months of arguing with Indians about phone filters before that got fixed?
×
×
  • Create New...