MiCarl

For those of you looking to try Linux but need Windows programs look into the WINE library for Linux. WINE gives you the libraries you need to run quite a few windows programs. Last I looked, and it's been awhile, WINE only supported through Windows XP which was fine for me because I haven't got new software since Windows 2000. That might have changed since then.

I was able to do it but it took me 2 steps. 1) I uploaded the picture and saved the post. 2) I edited the post, put the cursor where I wanted the picture, then chose Insert existing attachment from the pull down on the bottom right.

hmmmmmm Trying now.

Looking at the Pirelli web site the only 15" Night Dragon rear tires they're showing are the 180/70 and 200/70. If you're finding a 170/80 it might be old. You don't have to worry about tire flex because your clearance problem is at the drive shaft housing, not at the road where the tire flexes. A 170 might just fit but the wider tires definitely won't. There is also the problem of getting the tire between the drive hub and swing arm, although you can force a bit wider tire in there if you deflate it. And yes, in theory a 170 is 20mm wider than a 150. And yes, the different manufacturers measure differently. Consider putting on the Pirelli MT 66 Route, it's available in the size you need. When I had my shop I installed a lot of them and my customers liked them.

STATE WITH NO ELECTIRCITY ORDERS EVERYONE TO DRIVE CARS THAT RUN ON ELECTRICITY

You don't need the tool to check them, only to replace shims if they're out of spec. The tool you need is distributed by K&L Supply, catalog number 32-3462. I'd be shocked if your local dealer isn't set up to sell their products. If they won't cooperate try the independent shops.

I'm surprised China is #1 . I guess the Russians are too busy working on the election.

Unfortunately it's hard to find a product that May Contain Bolts.

Oil on the threads isn't the running problem. Your valve cover gasket is leaking and oil is pooling around the plugs. Oil gets on the threads as you remove them. Needing choke to run is a symptom of a fuel system issue. Check for vacuum leaks. Put in a good dose of carburetor cleaner (Sea-foam, gumout etc.). Ride it like you stole it, that might clear up the issue.

Tire manufacturers tell you never to mix them, unless the OEM specifies it. The different handling characteristics can cause problems when mixed if the bike isn't designed for it. Personally, I'd stick with bias tires on both ends. If you're only going to replace the front it's probably a good idea to match the rear type.

I'm fairly confident the R/R on a Venture senses the voltage (+) on the same wire that charges the battery. So a poor connection would result in voltage at the R/R to be higher than the battery, in other words it under charges. It is possible though that the R/R senses the voltage (-) to its case, rather than the pigtail to the harness. If so, a poor connection between the chassis and R/R case might cause over voltage. Wouldn't hurt to make sure the case and chassis are clean and the mounting screws are good and tight. For that matter, it never hurts to check all the connections. Solid state gizmos can do weird things with poor connections.

Cruise control module. It's behind the headlight. As I recall a bad switch on the clutch or brakes will cause the "SET" light to flash briefly then the "RES" light comes on.

Your post implies that when you turn the cruise on all the lights operate properly. Is that correct? What are the symptoms when you try to set the cruise? Does the "SET" light come on? If not you need to grab a multi-meter and check the clutch and both brake switches. If you don't find a problem with them the module may be defective.

The whine is how we perceive the rattle of the straight cut gear set Yamaha used. Depending on the gear lash the volume, pitch and rpm of the whine will vary. Since manufacturing isn't perfect any time you switch one or both gears you're likely to change the lash. It sounds like you got one that works well for you.

The only thing that can cause over voltage is the regulator/rectifier. So unless you've got two bad gauges that is your issue.

There is a spring that returns the pedal to its neutral position. It's on the shift shaft, right side of engine, under the clutch. Off hand I do not recall whether you can get to it without pulling the clutch basket.

It's almost impossible to make an 86 rich. If those two cylinders are getting too much fuel it has to be carburetors, probably float adjustment, float sticking or bad float needle valves. A fuel level check will confirm that the float bowls are over filling. Process to check is in the service manual. There are service manuals on this site, but I don't know if you can access them as a trial member. SERVICE MANUALS HERE

Instead of pulling off the fuel line open some carburetor drain screws. If the pump runs and fuel drains you can go straight to cleaning up the carburetors.

That is where the oil fill was on a first gen and the V-Max. On the 2nd gen they put another oil fill in the clutch cover. At some point they stopped drilling and tapping that hole. Later castings just had a flat spot there. You could fill the oil there, but it's hard to reach.

The video is pretty good but I think there are a couple ways to improve what he's doing: 1) I don't like having the ratchet near the motorcycle. I use tie down extension straps on the bike and run the ratchet strap from the extension to the trailer, with the buckle at the trailer end. This is the kind of extension strap I mean: 2) He's got excess strap tied off near the motorcycle. That could flap in the wind and damage paint. Tie the excess off down at the trailer. One more thing, tie down the rear even if it's a single strap through the wheel. If you're in a collision you don't need the motorcycle somersaulting onto the tow vehicle.

The engine should mount up but my understanding the exhaust ports of the 2nd gen head has a different angle and ends up being blocked by a first gen frame. I also believe the carburetors are a different diameter so you'd have to do some adapting on the intake side. Probably not worth the effort.

There are a number of things that can cause your problem. When you have the carbs off remove the float bowls and invert the rack. Get a spray bottle of soapy water and a length of hose that will fit the fuel inlet snugly. Attach the hose to the inlet and blow into the other end while spraying the underside of the carburetor bodies with soapy water. Watch for bubbles, which will indicate the location of the leak. The leak can be at a flat needle, where the needle seat seals to the carb body or even a cracked body. If you don't find a leak you need to look at the floats themselves for fuel saturation, mis-adjustment or hanging up on something when the bowl is installed.

I think you've got something a bit loose (external to the engine) that is resonating with the engine vibration. How does the sound change if you change the engine RPM?

I may not have been crystal clear in my earlier post: You use your leg to do the work. Very few of us have enough arm to lift a Venture.