MiCarl

Yes, generally front and rear are different. The carcass on a rear tire is designed to absorb the forward torque from acceleration. The carcass on a front is designed to absorb the reward torque from braking. The tread pattern will be different too

Just looking in my system at tires that size, which means I've either sold them or at least quoted them: Pirelli MT 66 Bridgestone G721 Kenda Kruz Shinko 777 Shinko Tour Master I have a friend with a set of the MT66 on his RSV and he loves them. Some manufacturers/models of tire will list that size as MV85-16. That is a common rear size though, keep a sharp eye out that you're getting a front tire.

That will work but I consider it a bad idea. If you ever stall in traffic you'll have to find neutral before you can restart. While you're doing that the drivers behind and around you are apt to start doing dumb things that could lead to you being hurt. I'd suggest you either chase up a used one or rig up another method to retain the switch. Or you could just buy THIS ONE on eBay for $28 shipped.

As I recall, getting the lower race out of a RSV is really difficult. They left little to nothing exposed to drive it out with. There are a couple routes you can take. You can grind away a spot on the race with a die grinder so it becomes loose. You can also lay a healthy bead of weld in the race. There is a good chance when the weld cools the race will just fall out. If not the bead gives you something to tackle with a punch.

If the slave is leaking it ends up running down the crank case (behind the middle gear cover) where it will eventually drip on the ground. Problem is it's hard to see because it's not much fluid, all the breather hoses are dumping gunk in the same area and road grime sticks to all of it.

The starter probably won't bend a rod. If one of the other cylinders fires though you're toast.

The hydrolock will be in whichever cylinder(s) have a float valve not closing. Never a bad idea to turn the fuel valve off when sitting but that is only a band-aid. Best to service the carburetors too.

High voltage is always the Regulator/Rectifier. Try another gauge first to make sure your reading is correct. I'm not sure the stator on a RSV will even push 16.6 at idle.......

You shouldn't be able to draw it too tight. The proper bolts have a shoulder and the rubber donuts apply the correct tension to the gasket. Make sure you have the correct bolts. Put in new donuts with your new gasket. When the donuts don't get old the rubber looses its elasticity. Normally this keeps them from applying enough pressure on the gasket but in your case maybe they got hard and applied too much pressure.

The dial on the rear suspension is damping. I believe the standard model had it as well as the Royalle. Audio system was an option on the standard.

@cowpuc I don't have any slick answers. Lengthening the clutch rod won't work - the hydraulic system will adjust for it (that's actually what happens as the clutch wears). My guess is that somewhere there is an adjustable lever that would probably work, there probably not that many different clutch perches. Finding the right one might be difficult without some inside knowledge of the supply chain though. I have a customer with small hands and a VStar 1100 that had a similar complaint. I reshaped his clutch lever a bit to get the friction zone closer to the grip. If you decide to try that you need to heat it some, they're somewhat brittle.

There is a shaft that comes through the crankcase to drive the water pump. There is a seal on the crankcase side and a seal on the water pump side. The drain hole lets liquid that gets in the gap between escape so they don't contaminate each other. When the water pump seal failed you had coolant draining from the hole. Now it's the crankcase seal (and maybe the bearing too) so it's leaking oil. Replacing that crankcase oil seal isn't generally part of a water pump rebuild/replace.

I'm going to close my repair shop around Jan 1. At that time I'll be offering my XVZ tool and an assortment of shims at a very good price. Anyone interested should keep an eye on the classifieds.......

Enjoy it while it lasts. The 2020 campaign will start any minute now.

I recently replaced one on a Valkyrie. You don't say which GL1500, but I presume it's the GoldWing. Should be about the same. Fairly easy to do, easier than a Venture, centered on the rear of the engine. 3 bolts hold it to the clutch cover. Needed to pull the kick stand off the frame to get enough clearance to get the left most bolt out. The bleed screw is remote (top of the engine) with a solid steel tube down to a 2nd banjo bolt on the slave. Just pull that bolt (don't loose the crush washers) and you can flex the tube enough to pull the slave out. On the Valkyrie I could see what I was doing from the right side of the motorcycle. I think on a GoldWing the battery will block your view. Probably have to get your head down on the floor to see what you're doing.

The dot doesn't need to be lined up with the valve stem. That is done on the presumption that the valve is the heavy spot on the wheel. I check alloy wheels before I mount tires. On ribbed cast wheels like the 1st gen ventures have the heavy spot isn't anyway near the valve at least half the time. You should have it re-balanced once you solve your leak issue. Check to see if it's leaking at the bead. It's not unusual for 30 year old alloy wheels to have some crud build up that keeps the bead from sealing.

They're currently showing 6 of 1FK-16381-11-00 in stock. I'd contact them.

Valve cores are available almost everywhere: Auto parts stores, Walmart etc. I buy them in packs of 100 from Grainger. If it's leaking through the valve a core would likely take care of it. For that matter, the old core might just be loose. If it's leaking between the valve and wheel a core won't solve the problem. That rubber gets old and will leak. It's also possible corrosion in the wheel is lifting the rubber and allowing a leak. There isn't anything special about the valve that requires an OEM either. I would expect a dealer to have suitable replacements on hand, I do in my little shop.

Not exactly the same as a fuel screw but behaves the same. Out = richer.

I've never tried to build one, but will share a story told by someone who was preparing to retire 20 years ago and thought log homes looked like an inexpensive way to go. When he went to price one it went like this: Seller: "Will you be wanting a roof on that?" Future retiree: "Yes, we want to keep the rain and snow out." Seller: "What about doors? Do you want doors on the home?" Future retiree: "Will need a door to go in and out." Seller: "Windows?" By the time the add ones were done he found it it was less money to just build a conventionally framed house.

The only difference between a MKII and 2nd gen finals is the 2nd gen has a hole machined for the speedometer sensor. I had a 2nd gen final on my 89 for awhile, just made a block off plate and gasket for it. Of course if you get the sensor with it you can just cut the wire off......

You'd have to talk to the engineers who put it there to know for sure, but I can think of three things it might do: Distribute the weight of a tank that is very heavy when full. Isolate the tank from the frame so when low on fuel it doesn't drum from vibration. Let the frame flex separately from the tank. Keeps the tank from buckling on a rough ride. Regardless, it has a purpose. Put it back.

The parts fiche shows DPR8EA-9. Leroy is correct, that number is the heat range. If I remember correctly, an 8 will be a cooler plug than a 7. I agree with him that in most circumstances it's unlikely to make a difference.

Popping on decel can be exhaust leaks or a problem with the air cut off valves.

Remember too that if the battery is at all discharged the voltage will take awhile to rise. So if you've just started out or were stopped for a long time it might not pop up like after a quick stop with a fully charged battery.