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icebrrg3rd

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Everything posted by icebrrg3rd

  1. icebrrg3rd
    There is only the 70° "V" between the front and back banks, the banks within themselves have no separation between them. Not sure how/why those pick-ups are like that in your pic. Here's my pic of the cylinders, you can see they are in line and not at an angle to each other. -Andrew edit - I see MiCarl explained the offset of the coil pick-ups, I missed that...
  2. icebrrg3rd
    So what all gets sent to you? The whole mass, flywheel/gear/clutch assembly, as it pops off the shaft? Do you need an unbroken clutch or do you take the broken one? Which parts are the ones that are in limited stock now, the old stuff or the parts you need to do the mod? Reason I'm asking is that I have one of each: 1 broken one on the bike, 1 used but unbroken one off the bike. I want to put the unbroken one on the bike for the time being, until I can afford a starter clutch mod from you, but I don't want to break it if you need an unbroken one for the mod. I have a complete 2nd set of the flywheel/gear/clutch assembly. -Andrew
  3. icebrrg3rd
    But with a V-Max you'd have the rear shocks exposed on the swingarm, with the Venture you have the hidden mono shock. Plus V-Maxs seem to command a higher resale price, where as a Venture can be gotten for cheap, especially if all the plastic is damaged/missing already. Not that bad, not for me tho, and I too would hate to hit those carb intakes on a rapid deceleration maneuver. -Andrew
  4. icebrrg3rd
    Would that work better on the ones you sent out last group buy? Just wondering, as mine still has the occasional 4000 rpm cut-out and I am still trying to fix it. -Andrew
  5. icebrrg3rd
    Hey Frank, how do you know when the screws are turned out all the way to the maximum idle speed prior to turning them back in? Do you turn one at a time or turn all out and then go back in? And does messing with the screws mess up the sync? Or just the idle speed? Sorry Bob for hi-jacking... -Andrew
  6. icebrrg3rd
    Just seeing if you had any left before I order one tonight. Thanks, Andrew
  7. icebrrg3rd
    Will we need a cake I'm sure Jeff can bring some rum balls for him, just don't put any lit candles on them! -Andrew
  8. icebrrg3rd
    Just put it on my calendar. -Andrew
  9. icebrrg3rd
    Dan, not sure on this site's rules for posting links to other sites, but I have a 2000 Grand Caravan and I find a lot of info over at chryslerminivan dot net. Good info over there, might help a bit as they're more into Caravans than here. -Andrew
  10. icebrrg3rd
    YES! It has been known to shut down whole cities! Render rescue squads immobile! In mass quantities it causes car accidents, heart attacks, and even baby booms! Extremely hazardous material! BAN IT! BAN IT! BAN IT! Oh, and my gas seems to be leaking too, Jeff. I went thru 4 tanks Sat alone! -Andrew
  11. icebrrg3rd
    Oh great! Now I got a disturbing mental picture. Gotta go flush my mind. Where's that Pond Monster pic? -Andrew
  12. icebrrg3rd
    It wasn't me. Here's the article. He didn't make it. http://www.jsonline.com/news/milwaukee/motorcyclist-50-dies-in-crash-on-south-side-6l7083t-171147211.html From the Milwaukee Journal/Sentinal: Motorcyclist, 50, dies in crash on south side "A 50-year-old man died Monday evening after he crashed his motorcycle on W. Oaklahoma Ave. near S. 5th St., Milwaukee police said. The driver, who was not wearing a helmet, lost control of his 1983 Yamaha, hit a median and was thrown, hitting a pole, police said. The motorcyclist was taken to Froedtert Hospital where he was pronounced dead. An autopsy is scheduled for Tuesday. His name was not released." I go by that spot twice a day, to and from work. -Andrew
  13. icebrrg3rd
    Black owl, you must have walked thru a door as you posted this both in watering hole & fun & frivolous. I suppose it's better to walk thru a door than into them. -Andrew
  14. icebrrg3rd
    Plus throw into the facts that our engines are at a 70° vee and not 90°, so they aren't firing evenly, so that 1-3-4-2 firing is 1 - 180° - 3 - 70° - 4 - 180° - 2 - 290° - 1. So they are not firing exactly on the exhaust stroke of their "opposite" cylinder. That said, I still want a Marks collector, or at least make a copy of one myself. -Andrew
  15. icebrrg3rd
    Ok, how do I thank this whole thread? Bob, I was searching thru threads since I too was having fuel economy issues and a poorly running bike (a 2nd genner coulda beat me!) and I found yours. I looked into my carbs last night and saw that same seat sticking out on cyl. #4. I pulled the carbs, screwed it back in, re-synced my carbs, and WOW!!!! I took a test ride down the alley and I nearly pulled the wheel up! Plus there is no more backfiring from that side, and it runs so smooth. I am soooooo happy. Now to see if my mileage improves too. I really love my bike now! -Andrew
  16. icebrrg3rd
    If you have a good one, I'd be interested, but I have extremely low funds right now. In a month or so I could afford it, so maybe get a hold of you then? -Andrew
  17. icebrrg3rd
    +1 on the CMU. I re-soldered mine when I first got the bike to eliminate some warning lights on the dash and a dim/non-op low beam, then did it again recently because of the dim low beam. Back to full strength low beam now. -Andrew
  18. icebrrg3rd
    Yup, a gear that is near the end of it's usefulness. Now I'll be looking for a "new" driveshaft. It did have grease on it, but I think my bike was a parts bike, thrown together with all the leftover, worn-out parts and sold off to some sucker. -Andrew
  19. icebrrg3rd
    Since there seems to be some "What's this" threads floating around, I figured I'd try and stump the group. So here's my contribution. -Andrew
  20. icebrrg3rd
    See, all it takes is a pic and someone with more knowledge comes along to help. Oh, and if your coolant is not completely drained it will leak into the engine (oil) when you pull that part out. So plan on an oil change too. -Andrew
  21. icebrrg3rd
    How come no-one mentioned duct tape?!? Like many, mine had that "ding" in it, I filled it up with JB Weld and painted it, now it looks just like new. -Andrew
  22. icebrrg3rd
    This piece, the one circled in the first pic, which runs between the timing chain (rectangle in second pic). I had to remove them as I needed to swap heads. As for trying to grip them from the outside, I tried on those flat flanges with a pliers and they just crumbled. I finally removed them by going from the inside by grabbing with a vice grips and rotating, then they "broke" loose and came out fairly easy. There is an o-ring seal on it. They went back in fairly easily too (re-used them, and the o-rings too!). I don't have an actual pics of the part on hand right now, tho. -Andrew
  23. icebrrg3rd
    Jeff, the lower case is the bearing "cap". Can't see the bearings w/o splitting the case, can't split w/o removing engine. Just an FYI. As for the gears, the exposed plastic one can be changed. The one on the inside (metal) you probably need to split the case, but it's probably ok. Below is a pic of the gears with the oil pan removed. You can swap oil pumps thru the oil pan. -Andrew
  24. icebrrg3rd
    I had noticed that bike for sale on-line. Glad it went to a good home! Will have to take a peek at it next time I'm over that way. -Andrew
  25. icebrrg3rd
    Sure, post it AFTER I have made plans for the weekend (up north). Oh well, have fun on the ride. Will have to keep my eyes more open for those kind of things around here. Oh, I've done poker runs that made a stop at Badlanders, not too bad of a place. -Andrew
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