icebrrg3rd

I'll be there, I have a tent (I think I can fit it on the bike). When it gets closer I'll see if Jeff wants to ride out there together on Fri. I also have RSVP'd -Andrew

So are the blue & grey thingys (circled in red) what are replaced with the 1N4000 series diodes? So how does my circuit board look? -Andrew

Just curious, for bikes w/o a centerstand, do you leave it resting on the kickstand, or do you make it stand upright off the k/s when strapping it down? And ditchdoctor, love the blue diamond cut fins, that's one thing I wish you could mount on a 1st gen. -Andrew

USA Size: 5" Qty: 2 Size: 7" Qty: 1 Thanks, looks great! -Andrew

Dang it, called them and they said it was a 2-brush motor. Wonder if they know that as fact or just saying it cause they don't know/don't want to check. Guess I'll be putting out the extra cash for the 4-brush one that MiCarl listed. Really want the hard hot starting to go away, it's embarrassing trying to start it up in public after getting gas or a quick trip into a store. So are all RSV starters 4 brush? Would a used one from someplace like Pinwall be ok for a cheaper source? Not sure how long a starter will last, I suppose the only real wear item is the brushes. -Andrew

Following Zak202's lead, the 1st gen AGM batteries (ETX18L) are $100.99 at Advance, using that code TRT41 I too got $40 off. So mine was just over $64 with tax. Except I got home, put a voltmeter to it, and it read 4.88v. Not good. Returned it, they didn't have any more at that store, did a transfer, went to that store, it was an un-boxed one reading 11.8v. Not taking that one either. Third store had one in a box, charged up, and all the hardware and literature. So that is now in my bike. Woo hoo. Still need the 4-brush starter tho, but now my voltmeter doesn't drop when I'm at stoplights and it cranks over fast. My old battery still read 12.6v, but when they load tested it, it showed only 203cca, and recommended replacing. -Andrew

Well, I tried calling them, got the machine saying call back during business hours M-F. So I'll have to wait til then to find out if it is a 2 or 4 brush motor. -Andrew

This one also says it replaces SM13-279 and is $88.45 + free shipping. I'll give them a call a little bit later this morning. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Starter-VMAX-1200-V-Max-1FK-81800-10-00-Yamaha-/300591657853?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fca8b37d&vxp=mtr Jeff, wouldn't matter on ordering them together, they all seem to have free shipping unless you want it faster. Also, I have upgraded my wires and ran a jumper to the started for a ground, plus did the internal ground thingy inside the starter, didn't really help. I did just get a new battery, not sure how old the last one was (I had the bike for 3 years, no idea on when the PO replaced it). I'm going to install it this morning and maybe take a test spin to see if it will restart hot. I do admit I need to do the fusebox (next on my list) but I don't see how that would affect the starter. Anyways, I'll report back what I find out about the starter I posted about. -Andrew

Well, I waited and that lot of starters is now gone. I did a search and found this one for $79, free shipping. It has in the "Replaces these part numbers" the same part number as the other one. So I'm guessing that it should be the same. Will order it this weekend and find out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER-Yamaha-V-MAX-V-MAX-VMX1200-VMAX-1985-2000-MOTORCYCLE-VMX-1200-1198cc-/140904192531?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce8b5a13&vxp=mtr -Andrew

Patches? We don't need no stinkin' patches! Oh wait, maybe we do. This place is so much like a family. All the bickering and horseplay that goes on between members, but when attacked they all group together and defend. And Peder, glad you're not taking the backlash personally. Many here might have wondered the same too at one time or another, but when you see the benefits from this site, you (almost) want to send Don more! I know my savings well exceed the pittance I have paid. Glad I found this site. -Andrew

The computerized display panel should also show the headlight display icon when the white light is on (icon in the center position). This will also cause your flashing red light. What it is supposed to do is if your low beam (or high beam) burns out, it lights the other beam so you will have a light. Try flipping it to high beams, the blue light should turn on, your light should get brighter, and the icons and warning lights should go out. If your bulb is bad, replace and see if that works. Most likely, your bulb is good (test with a voltmeter/continuity tester) and your computerized system has a bad solder joint. Has happened twice on mine. There are threads on how to fix that, it's not that hard. Ok, that's the help I can be, not sure about helping with the low spark issue... -Andrew

Nice, probably has fuel injection too, unlike the Venture... -Andrew

You can bring the antidote to the rum balls...tho not sure what that might be! Yeah Orlin, what should we bring? -Andrew

Ya know, if you take a 2nd gen and rip off it's fork mounted fairing and plop on a HD Road Glide fixed fairing, I might go for a 2nd gen... -Andrew

Well, since these mirrors are scarce, I guess I'll cut the rubber and glue it back together once it's on the base. I don't want to ruin the mirror. Thanks all. -Andrew

Ok, I tried a search, but using "mirror" as a search topic turns up quite a bit of threads (15,600 or so). What I want to know is, can you remove the base from the mirror w/o damaging it, AND be able to put it back together? Reason is, I have a set of mirrors but on one the rubber base cover is missing. I have another base (sans mirror) with the rubber cover. I want to put the rubber cover on the base with the mirror, but it won't fit over the base from the bottom. So my options are 1) use it without the cover, 2) cut the cover, put it on, and glue it back up, or 3) remove the mirror, put on cover, then attach mirror back to base. I'm hoping there is a way to do option #3. Or am I just SOL? Thanks, Andrew

I sure hope he isn't that old, you know, the age when you have to slow down and get a 2nd gen... Dan, my wife says things like that too, and I find out she's not on the same page as I am . -Andrew

No fooling, just sent , the trailer is coming to WI... -Andrew

I think what the OP is trying to find out if there IS any differences between the Royale & standard gauges. He doesn't want to go thru the hassle if there is a difference. Sounds like he doesn't have them side by side to compare. I want to say NO, the diff between the 2 bikes are the add-ons that are on the sides (radio, CB, CLASS, etc) among other things but the gauges are the same. As long as they're both '83s. -Andrew

I am going to get hit hard when I show this to her tonight! Then I will probably only need the 3-pack for the year, but I might have spares... -Andrew

Having personal knowledge that a PO might use anything for a replacement bolt/screw/nut/whatever, have you tried using a standard hex, like a 3/8"? That would be .020" smaller than a 10mm (.375 vs. .394), plus going off a socket head chart, a 10mm hex would be standard on a 12mm thread and a 3/8" hex would be on a 1/2" thread, so if they boogered up the 12mm threads, a 1/2" thread would be the next closest size up (.472 vs. .500). Just a suggestion. -Andrew

This thread has gone from a new pope to petting sweaty things... You are all going straight to H-E-double hockey sticks!!! -Andrew

Hey darthandy, they tried delivering that package to me earlier this month, I didn't want it so I forwarded it to you. -Andrew

I'd go for 2-3 of them, they look very nice. -Andrew

Alrighty then, thanks. I'll have to get the registration mailed off soon. Ok, one more question. Are the t-shirts just for the adults ($50) or for the kids too ($25)? -Andrew