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icebrrg3rd

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Everything posted by icebrrg3rd

  1. icebrrg3rd
    One word - LEON'S! http://leonsfrozencustard.us/images/148033_l.jpg Since 1942! Only in WI would you have a line for custard in the middle of winter. There is no indoor space for the customers, so you are outside for ordering & eating. Those wimps on the food channels probably couldn't handle it. -Andrew
  2. icebrrg3rd
    Jeff, I've been talking with the wife, I might be able to go Fri eve after work. I have to procure a tent tho, as I really don't have the extra $$ for a hotel. Still trying to work out the details. I'd stay thru Sat eve and head home Sat night. Will hopefully know tonight if I will be free. -Andrew
  3. icebrrg3rd
    Hmmm, I'm in negotiations right now, nothing positive but I'm hoping for a Fri evening ride out there, BS-ing, um, I mean maintenance Sat and a ride home Sat evening. Hopefully I'll know more in a day or so. Anyone know how to change tires or have the equipment? You bringing your Carbtune Jeff? -Andrew
  4. icebrrg3rd
    After a long night, this morning we welcomed Tiva Jade into our family. Everyone is doing fine other than being very tired. Well, less talk, more pics. -Andrew p.s. This is why I won't be making the WI MD 2012.
  5. icebrrg3rd
    Also, my bike didn't have the decorative cover over the fork opening, so you'd have to remove that to swap the risers leftright. It also brings the handlebars real close to the fake gas tank cover and I couldn't (didn't) put the cables back inside the risers. And the clutch/brake reservoirs/hoses are jammed next to the risers. Just an FYI. -Andrew
  6. icebrrg3rd
    Hey Jeff, that was me with the swapped risers. Here's the pic. Also, I have swapped over to regular handlebars that I need to "adjust" just a little more to be comfortable but otherwise I am happy with. So if you want a set of spare bars to try out, let me know. Oh, to flip them you have to drill out a little on the riser to allow the pin on the base to remain in place. -Andrew
  7. icebrrg3rd
    It was a washer from a rear shock mount off a 750 Maxim but I think they used it on a lot of shock mounts. I have a box of random screws/bolts/nuts/washers from a few parts bikes that I scrounge thru cause it's cheaper than a hardware store, plus it seems motorcycles usually use fine pitch metric threads and hardware stores usually carry coarse. -Andrew
  8. icebrrg3rd
    Just wanted to let you know that the motor mounts are in. They fit nice and snug, no slop yet not an interference fit either. You have to make sure that the mounting holes are absolutely clean, any residue left from the old mounts make them too snug. The only thing is that I wasn't sure about the front lower mounts, as they have a nut that makes direct contact with the delrin and I wasn't too sure about that. I had some large chrome washers that I put in to make sure that the delrin was protected and wouldn't fail. Thanks again Bob for making these! Great buy! Seriously recommend them to anyone who needs new ones, or wants a nice solid feeling bike! -Andrew
  9. icebrrg3rd
    I also changed the program of the new TCI that I got to the old v-max venture setting, as I had the 3500-4000 rpm cut-out. Have only ridden it today since changing it so I don't know if that "fixed" it or not, got it up to 4 grand and held it for about a mile & 1/2 with no cutout. I do need to hook up with Jeff since he has a carbtune and "experience" from Don's MD... Oh, and for the record, I took a 440 mile drive on June 2nd, 180 miles at 70-75mph w/ a strong headwind, about 55 miles at a relaxed pace w/ a few stops along the Mississippi River, then about 200 miles at 60 & 70mph back home. Overall average was a tick under 40mpg (39.95). Not bad for not quite tuned up carbs, old spark plugs (forgot to change them out before I threw the plastic on), and an engine I had no history of that was frankensteined (1200cc heads on a 1300cc motor). It was also a pleasant day in the upper 60s lower 70s. Things I did to the bike: -Handlebars from my XJ650 Maxim that I bent to a different shape -Solid Delrin motor mounts (bob myers made them) -Delinked the brakes -1200cc heads on a 1300cc motor -New carb diaphragms -New TCI (dingy's group buy) -Phone holder (need to get a close-up pic of that) -Swapped out tranny gears from the 1300cc motor just to put them back in since the 1200cc motor had toasted bearings -Installed grease zirk fittings on the swingarm -Kick stand mod (also dingy's) -Painted up the motor in black & burnt copper engine paint I'm sure I forgot stuff, but that's a pretty good list for now. -Andrew
  10. icebrrg3rd
    Well, I fixed a few more of the leaks, the only ones I have now are the oil filter cover (the new filter didn't come with a new o-ring?!?) and the clutch cover (I reused the old one). The motor cutting off issue I might have fixed by spraying some CRC 2-26 into the motor kill switch and flipping it on/off multiple times. I think leaving it out last year (but under a cover) may have tarnished the switch, I will see if that fixes it. So far so good. The hot starting, it might be the starter. I tried the voltmeter trick Jeff suggested, and I got 0v on the positive side from the + battery post to the starter post, and I think I got 0v on the negative side from the starter case to the - battery post, but it backfired really loud next to my ear as I was cranking it over so I called it quits. Here's a few more pics of it.
  11. icebrrg3rd
    I started it with my thumbnail and then used a credit card to push it in, no lubricants. I worked it around, and when I got to the end and there was a little bit of excess I just carefully stretched it away. Once the lip was all the way in, I tugged and pulled til it looked nice and even.
  12. icebrrg3rd
    Thanks, I've give that a try when I get home tonight, as it'll be nice & hot and will probably have that issue pop up again. I also have another issue that luckily didn't show on the trip, but I was experiencing last year and it just happened this morning on my way to work. I think it's related to the kill switch, as that is what seems to happen. I will be driving along and it will completely cut out, but it leaves the dash & lights on. Trying to drop the clutch while still rolling won't start it, neither will the starter switch. Not sure what "fixes" it as I usually wiggle wires & flip the kill switch back & forth, then all of a sudden I can start it again. It does look like some oil is seeping out from the oil pan, will have to drop it and seal it again. It looks like coolant is coming out from the o-rings on the plastic elbow too, will get new o-rings for that. But it seems to be fairly buttoned up otherwise. I have a few loose ends to touch up, but it's nice riding the Venture again. -Andrew
  13. icebrrg3rd
    Well, I got it back together and made my trip on Sat with minimal issues. Only problem is the hot start issue. I have run a thicker wire to the starter, connected the internal parts with a ground wire, and ran a jumper wire to the main battery ground. But still when hot it turns over slowly. I know the newer starters have solved other people's starting issues, but could it also be the solenoid? Mine is crummy looking, as the exterior is corroded like it has seen much water. I just don't want to throw parts at it and hope to fix it, I want it fixed fo as cheap as possible. When I get a chance I'll update this thread with more pics. -Andrew
  14. icebrrg3rd
    Ok, I took it on a 440 miles trip Sat, I am also having the 3500-4000 rpm cut-out. Most of the time if I wasn't watching the tach I wouldn't have noticed it. It drops but bounces right back up and the engine didn't seem like it missed. But there were a couple of times it was longer and the engine started bogging down but then went back to normal. So I guess I'll have to look at a different program to install. -Andrew
  15. icebrrg3rd
    Well, here's the latest update. Got it running yesterday, I have the new TCI installed, got the rear brake working, tuned the carbs up (might need to adjust them a little more) want to run some seafoam thru it, then change out the plugs & oil & add antifreeze (running straight water right now, just in case it leaked). Taking the tires in to get mounted, and will be putting the plastic back on. Then hitting the road Sat. It sounds nice & idles really well. Only took it for a quick spin up & down the alley in the rain, didn't go far/fast. Here's another pic, but of the other side. The wetness under it is from driving in the rain, it doesn't seem to be leaking (knock on wood). -Andrew
  16. icebrrg3rd
    Well, IT'S ALIVE!!!! It's running, and sounds great. I'm going to bed now... -Andrew
  17. icebrrg3rd
    Yup, was staring right at it. I hadn't clipped the zip tie so the black connector blended right in. All hooked up and it started! Woo hoo! -Andrew
  18. icebrrg3rd
    I'm not a home right now, maybe I just missed that wire/connector... Will post back in a few hours what I find out. I could have been staring right at it and not seeing it. It's been a long week working on the bike. Thanks for the quick post back. -Andrew
  19. icebrrg3rd
    I don't know if I missed it, but the electrical connector for my MAP sensor doesn't match up with what's on my bike. Do I need to install a different connector? I also see I need to attach the vacuum tube to a different location, is it the carb boot where you would attach the Carbtune? Could I use the stock sensor but attach it to that location? I'm hoping to have it running tonight/tomorrow and I still have the stock one hooked up. -Andrew
  20. icebrrg3rd
    How hard is it to remove the rear swing arm? I pulled the drive shaft out, and it didn't seem to be too hard getting the motor back in with the swing arm there. Either way, it's back in. Unfortunately, I cheaped out and didn't buy gaskets, so when I assembled the covers the starter gears got pinched, which I didn't find out til I tried starting it last night. D'oh. Then I remembered reading about it here somewhere that you need the thickness of the gasket to get proper clearance. Since it was late, I just pulled the cover and ground the sides of the gears to get that clearance. Now I just have to wait til tonight to try starting it up again. I also de-linked the brakes, but I couldn't afford new line yet so I reused some old line. The front work great, but the rear clamps but doesn't release. I've cleared the pinhole, but it seems to not want to release. I put a bolt to block off the front line and removed the proportioner valve, so the rear line is connected directly to the cylinder. Is that the correct way to do it? Here's one of the last pics I took of it, it's further along but I wasn't taking pics due to time constraints and very greasy hands. -Andrew
  21. icebrrg3rd
    I never take whole vehicles in for tires, even my cars. I don't trust them with impact guns and lug nuts. So yes, I'd only take in the wheels & tires, thanks for the heads up on wheel from bike removal cost tho. The back axle is only slid into place as I removed the pumpkin to grease the drive shaft splines, and I put it back on just so I could roll the bike around the garage. The front will be off in a heartbeat. I think I will take them in, I'll call tonight for an appointment tomorrow evening. -Andrew
  22. icebrrg3rd
    I might just take it to "The Shop", as I'm running out of time. I was going to try and change them myself, but my list of things I still have to do to the bike is kinda long. I didn't get the bike started last night, was monkeying around with the exhaust and some other stuff. I wasn't going to crank it over at midnight. Once I get home tonight I'm loading it up with fluids and cranking her over. Wish I was going to MD, but I had made prior arrangements. Maybe in a year or two I'll make it out there. Here's a teaser pic from this last weekend. -Andrew
  23. icebrrg3rd
    van avery, I just replaced my diaphragms and thought I had read somewhere / saw a pic of that hole and it's orientation. Couldn't find it again but I went with the hole towards the motor like you said. Thanks for the confirmation that I put them in the right position. All four were at random positions when I dis-assembled it. Here's hoping for a better running bike. -Andrew
  24. icebrrg3rd
    Well, it's been a while, I've worked on the bike on & off over the last few months, but really hit it hard this weekend. Kids were gone with grandpa, and other than grilling some burgers & going to a movie (MIB3) with the wife, I was in the garage early every day and out til the wee hours. As of last night, the engine is back in where it belongs, and all I have to do is the exhaust and a few other tidbits. Once running, then I'll put the plastic back on. I took a few pics, but was too busy / greasy to take many. Some misc things I did (other than the engine/transmission swap) was adding grease fittings on the suspension arms, plus the kickstand bolt mod. I still have to get the tires mounted and the new TCI installed. I would have liked to do the body work / repairs I was planning, but I have a trip Sat that I need the bike running, so that will have to wait. Duct tape is my friend for now. Pics have to be downloaded from the camera, but I got finish work to do on the bike so I won't be fiddling around posting pics til later this week. Or next. -Andrew
  25. icebrrg3rd
    Nice looking Mustang, convertibles are always nice, and the red looks great. Saw that you just posted pics of the 'Stang over at the Sebring Club site. That's a nice set of folks over there too, I still go on over there even tho I don't own one anymore. Had a '96 Sebring, sold it and got my Venture (and an Astro). One Sebring = one Venture + one Astro. BTW, my Venture is an Honorary Sebring over there. -Andrew
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