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Marcarl

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Everything posted by Marcarl

  1. When you can see all of them at once, it doesn't matter where the timing mark is, what is needed is that the lobes are away from the lifters, at this point you measure and don't use the tool for this. It's really no different than doing it with rockers, but the adjustment is different, you need to replace the disc and that's where the tool comes in. So, you make a drawing (make sure you mark where the front is), number all the valves and cylinders leaving space for more important numbers, now you measure and mark down whether they are tight or loose and by how much. (When it's tight it's not always easy to figure how tight,use a thinner feeler and when it's loose you can use a thicker feeler to figure that one out). Now that you have that info you can take all the dics out that are out of speck. Each disc will have it's thickness stamped on the bottom, now mark down this number. From this info you can figure out what the new thickness needs to be and so you need to obtain these dics. If the numbers are worn off you will need a micrometer to measure them. Insert the new dics in the proper spots, turn the engine over a few times and check the clearances again. If all is well, you're done. Maybe more info than necessary, but I hope it helps.
  2. Be very careful not to drop any screws down in the engine area. I drilled off a pop rivet, didn't pay attention to where the leftovers went, then later went to change the plugs and the wrench wouldn't fit on the one plug, no matter how I tried and what I used, no luck to wrench the plug out. So finally I got a small pick and poked around in there and found the pop rivet end, another 15 minutes to get it out, but the problem would have been, had I been able to take the plug out it would have dropped in the cylinder and I would not have know it until it was tooo late. OH yes, I did blow out the holes first even though I thought they were clean because I just put the engine back in. Careful, careful careful!!!!!!!!!
  3. I got CLASS and I love it, but then I got Class:think:
  4. No problem here, some of us are more interested in this sort of thing and tend to remember better how it all goes, or maybe it's just the age thingie, I'm not sure which. Hope you can remember the right amount of turns.
  5. Wrong one old boy, that's the one for syncing #1 carb to # 2. The idle adjust is in between #1 and #2 carbs but just below and hard to see. You have to look from the bottom up and it doesn't have a screw driver fitting, it's a thumb screw adjuster. I tried to post a picture but that wouldn't work.
  6. Wish we could make it. Close to the lake will be cool, advise to stay inland somewhat. Carl
  7. Posted before I re read it. #2 is adjusted for idle first, then you have your base vaccum number. Also keep your RPMs around the 900 mark by adjusting the idle screw \ thumbwheel.
  8. The front left is your #2 carb. The only way to adjust it is with the idle adjusting screw. So you adjust # 2 first, then the one behind it which is #1, then you go to the other side and forget about #'s 2&1 and set # 3 to #4, now you adjust #4 to #2 and you should be done. Hope this helps.
  9. Carl, Perhaps you didn't torque the rear pig correctly when you reinstalled it. I know that they can get a bit out of alignment if you dont do it right. Here's what I do when reinstalling... 1 Install pig in tube and stick driveshaft, install the nuts on the studs and just snug them down. 2 Install rear rim and tire onto pig and assemble all the brake components and install rear axle. 3 Tighten the shaft bolt (12mm) so the axle bolt can be torqued, torque the nut and then release the 12mm shaft bolt, the swing arm will spring into it's proper formed shape. 4 Loosen the 4 pig nuts that are snug and then torque them down in a criss cross fashion. Everything should be where it normally sits. This is how I have done ever single one of my Ventures and I have never had any problems. Some others may chime in and add or detract from what I have mentioned, but I have never had any problems doing it this way with over 80k worth of riding.
  10. There is a best method for re-aligning all this now, and I lerned it form Squidley. Just hang in there and I will find it and post it for you.
  11. If I sell my place I could be rich, got almost everything that place has. Four bedrooms, two bathrooms, full kitchen, driveway, outbuidings, built over 100 years ago, wood floors, mile deep sand, river nearby, trees, grass, mosquitoes, (and flys and stink bugs for extra measure) a lake in the spring and natives.
  12. If you want to ride on this side of the border you are going to need the most important thing, one that nobody yet has mentioned and you cannot do without. Some have tried to get here without it but most find it a whole lot more pleasurable to to take their scoot.
  13. Glad to hear that he's ok. Bet the next ride won't be quite as close behind the one in front of him.
  14. I'm with Dalton Timmes in Ancaster, year before I was with Conestoga Ins. Cambridge. Both insured through Kingsway but Dalton was about $200.00 cheaper. Now I'm looking at Riders as well.
  15. can you post some pictures?
  16. Hate to play pool with this guy, a feller would just never get a shot.
  17. I got more or less the same problem. A carb sync would be in order first in order to make sure the carbs are at least close. If you don't have a carb sync, what I would do is to pull the air box, then visually turn the idle screw until #2 is just fully closed, then do # 1 with the sync screw, then # 4 then# 3. Now turn the idle screw back in some and then fire it up. That's about as close as you will get it without a measuring tool. I know the numbers don't seem to go the right way, but it should work, I'm thinking. Others may call me wrong, but it's what I would try.
  18. I would say that my shop is well equpped and can probably handle such a situation, I'm not sure about the guy who owns it though, it's a new one for me and it's a second gen, but then a little reading (I read mostly pictures) might help out a big deal. Either way, if you can wait til the 24th, there'll be lots of help here and the shop is open, if not, scoot up sometime, I know very well how to use the large hammer and big screwdriver. lol:thumbsup2:
  19. Got you all covered, with prayer and thoughts. Enjoy the fact that it was not worse and that you'll ride again.
  20. Keep us posted, He'll not give you more than you can bear, in the meantime we'll lay it down before Him. Carl
  21. I know meat turns green if you leave it too long, take a chew on it Brad, and find out.
  22. You probably put new pads on didn't you. The thing I always do is to champher the leading edge of the pad with a file. This normally stops all singing. About 45 degrees should do it and just enough to say that the sharp edge is gone.
  23. Nahh Bev was not to part with any cash lol, anyways we were closed at 4 and they didn't show up until after, that's when I become friend only and forget about selling and the business. Glad you enjoyed the meat meet, and if you want more, we close at 4 on Saturdays, and doesn't mean you can't get any, but it won't be suggested to you and you won't be reminded as to why you came. Glad you all showed up, makes for a great day: good weather, good friends, good food, good meatmeet, who could ask for more.
  24. You'll not get all the roots, so it will come back, weed killers will only get some of it, temporarily, so now that you have it, you are stuck with it, I've tried everything for 20 years years now and still have patches where there is no grass. Best solution: grow grass, lots of grass, and it will out grow this pain in the butt and keep it down, but when you have a bare patch, it fills in real quick and keeps things green.
  25. Marcarl

    Headsets

    IMO you will not get a good bass response anyways, the speakers are too far away from you ears, so that the ear channel cannot produce the low end. The backing for the speakers is the helmet, and is too flimsey for any acoustic drive to be available from that end. If you want, you can improve things somewhat by putting a filler behind the speakers to move them closer to your ear, but that might be somewhat uncomfortable for your ears if they push your ears back.
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