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Marcarl

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Everything posted by Marcarl

  1. Marcarl
    That's awesome, and yes, of course we are interested,,, and also how you are doing. Thanks be to our Creator.
  2. Marcarl
    Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  3. Marcarl
    So is it going to be Pink? Black? Red???? or what????
  4. Marcarl
    Lookin real good, she's a little shorter than you, but then I suppose that's ok.
  5. Marcarl
    Wow what a thread, guy posts a problem, needs some edumacation and gets it all free for the asking. You are a great bunch, what a discussion. One more point to add at this stage. Right now you just want to get rid of the color, and with that I would agree, but as stated before, once you have the new color on it will only be good for the first few days and then you're going to be saying to yourself,,,,,,,hummm self,,,, there are some runs here, and some rough spots there and man that orange peel doesn't look so good on the trunk. Sooooo, runs are caused by too much paint tooo fast, orange peel is caused by improper coat application (waiting too long to reapply) or too short a time frame, and usually the rough is caused by dust that you didn't think you had. I would second the thought to remove alllll the paintable parts, and stay out of the wood shop (maybe better use the kitchen LOL, mamma wants a new look anyways doesn't she?) unless it can be made dust free. You will also appreciate air circulation without raising any dust so pay attention to that issue. Spraying a small part in an inclosed area is nothing to what you are undertaking here. I have used a direct air compressor (no tank at all) for painting when I was young and in my prime, it worked, but I would rather have a tank and lots of air when I think I need it. As with any good paint job you should wait at least 1 year..one day before putting the parts back on and then be very careful, scratches will happen easily in the first week or two. After a day, if you can get some sun onto the parts that will really help. Once you get her back together, it's time to ride. Just don't pull any masking too soon, and that will vary depending on the drying \ curing process, which depends on temp and moisture in the air.
  6. Marcarl
    Well we went the other way so the wind would be warmer for you guys, and the rain mostly soaked up, I'm glad it worked. Yes the cross winds were something else, along with being somewhat cool, couple of times I had to retrieve my 'elmet from the ditch lol. Did Elora twice today, didn't like it too much the first time but it was much better the second go-round. Took a full 3 hrs to run this ride, will have to shorten it somewhere.
  7. Marcarl
    My first question would be, did you alter the coax at all, and the second thought goes to: Is the frame of you bike grounded properly. Find the ground strap that goes from the frame to the engine and clean the ends, if you can't find one, then make one. I put one between the grounding screw, right front side of the engine to the bolt that holds the cross member in place in front of the rad. That improved frame grounding noticeably.
  8. Marcarl
    If it don't run smooth it will not corner smooth, that's why some make can only go one way, they can't turn on a dime.
  9. Marcarl

    LED bulbs

    Marcarl replied to Cutty's topic in General Tech Talk

    Check out: http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html
  10. Marcarl
    If he can't do it, some else can, but it is always a hit and miss to some extent. The most important is that you figure out exactly how much to take off. Then you tape it, mark it, and cut with a Dremel, scroll saw or some such tool. Finish with a file and sandpaper. The tape used should be painters tape so to have less risk of removing the clearcoat on the windsheld, but that's always a risk as well.
  11. Marcarl
    When we drive as when we ride we have a lot of things going on that we need to watch for, besides the fact that we add to that with all the things we shouldn't. Most of these things, stop signs\lights, other signs, pedestrians etc.etc. go by us almost unthought of, we see them in a glance, decifer them, compute them, add them to the list if necessary and drive on or pull out or make our move based, not necessarily on reality, but what we percieve to be the truth. Something new, such as a modulated head light can be taken either as a warning (as intended) or as a signal light, or as a signal to go ahead, in which case it's an accident waiting to happen. The other thought that comes to mind is that for the rider with a mod. headlight, some people will pay attention and react well to the new item on their list and so notice the scoot. That being said, as a rider we may led into thinking that we are being seen and so take less caution when we should be more cautious in a given situation. My take on this is: use your high beam at all times, use only your low beam when meeting someone at night, and make constant use of driving lights. Using these two tools will probably do more for safety than anything else. Take some time for yourself the next time you are out on the road,,,, check out the bikes coming toward you,,,,,do you notice a low beam???? or does it blend nicely with the rest of the colors you see,,,,,now meet a scoot with high beam and driving lights going,,,,,AHHHHH there is something there,,,looks big,,, better maybe pay attention. And oh yah, stay out of the right hand track, we have no use,need,right,, for the right hand track except for when we actually need to turn right, and then it's best and safer to do so from the left hand track anyways. JMT Carl
  12. Marcarl
    Hook in the cables, follow the direction, the one marked (on the meter) to the transmitter, to the radio, the one marked to the attenna to the attenna. Move to an outside location, so not in your garage, although that will work, it isn't the best, juice up the CB, set the meter to FWD and squeeze the PTT switch, Now set the meter to 'set' with the adjustment wheel. Release the PTT, switch the meter to REF and again squeeze the PTT. The meter should read less than 1.5. If so, you're done, you have a good match. If it's more than 1.5 you can try adjusting the attenna to get it lower, the lower the better. Often we have to be happy with what we have because of the bikes we ride, very little ground plane makes for a hard to match system.
  13. Marcarl
    Go with what you got. If it's too bright turn down the level with the control knob, and that might be your problem with it being too dim. If your going to make a change to save watts then go to LEDs from SuperBright.
  14. Marcarl
    http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/CAON0081 Not a whole lot better, but not all that bad.
  15. Marcarl

    New Server

    Marcarl replied to Freebird's topic in Watering Hole

    Nobody had replied to this post, so I'll just do it now, Yep you did the job,,,,so far. Thanks Bro
  16. Marcarl
    You gone done and went and got old didn't ya. Wait till someone starts wheelin' ya wherever you go, then you can think of them good olde days of 2008. How time flies!!!!!!!!
  17. Marcarl
    I'm tied up for the morning picking up my trailer from Braeside where my daughter has it for the weekend and then the afternoon is planned to do a dry run with Wayne for the Saturday ride, So no, not at this time.
  18. Marcarl
    Hopefully before next weekend, so that I can verify that they fit alll first gens.
  19. Marcarl
    Hey don't worry about, I checked mine and the meter worked just fine, so we know the meter is good to go.
  20. Marcarl
    If your brake fluid is old it will not react the same as fresh brake fluid. I change mine very winter, just to be as sure as possible.
  21. Marcarl
    Hope there's no cloud in the sky, or you'll loose your way and end up back in KW.
  22. Marcarl
    Best just take a fat boy and ride around that dang thing a few times, either the fat boy will get faster or the pond smaller. Get your wife to watch so that she can tell which is happening. If the pond dosen't get smaller, try riding the other way around. On second thought you'd best wait a week or two and then there will be more witnesses to this act of bravery.
  23. Marcarl
    Well you best off telling us what you know about painting, or maybe better I'll just tell you what I know and how I would do it. Squidleys right, of course, as he always is, the spray cans can be cheap and the air sprayer is the best. Maybe you could rent a sprayer for a while, that would be better. Don't use an airless sprayer, you'll have to do a lot of sanding and cleaning to get the mess off again. With spray bombs, spend the money to get good quality car paint, not just enammel for household use, although it is a lot cheaper. See what you can find at a local autoparts store. The cheap stuff will wear off quite quickly. Do all your sanding and such before you start to paint, once you have the first paint down, you don't want to make any more dust. Once you are ready to paint you will be ready to do a complete cleanup of the paint room and then let it set for an hour or two so that all the dust settles, Wet the floor before you start, because your walking around will kick up dust. Set out all the items you want to paint so that there will little or no movement during the process. With a lint free cloth (J-Cloth) wipe all the paint areas with some paint thinner, or get some tackcloth which is better for the job. Now walk around all your items checking to make sure that you don't have to lean over something to get at what you need to, or that you'll bump into something on your way around. Make sure you have air circulation so that the oversray can go somewhere and wear a face mask. OK now you can start spraying. Shake the can well, the more the better and shake it continually during use. The first layer goes on very thin and start with the hard parts, not the middles. Do all the corners and folds and high areas first. You should be able to see the primer\old coat through the first layer. Wait about 20 minutes before putting down the second coat, which goes on the same way as the first, hard areas first. Use a continual motion from side to side. Start painting before you sweep onto the part and keep the paint going until you're off the part again. Second coat goes on a little heavier than the first but not too heavy, better too light than to heavy. Now wait half an hour and put down the third coat which goes on the same again as the first, but you can go a little heavier. As you apply the third coat the first two coats will have got rid of most of their thinners and now will suck the thinners out of the third coat, so making an thicker paint that won't run. The third coat maybe your last, it's up to you what it looks like, if you have it all covered and looking good, carefully close up shop so not to disturb any dust and take the rest of the day off. Don't even go in there to take a peek. All coats must be put on in succession so that you have good bonding and end up with a smooth finish, Better more coats thinner than fewer coats thicker, but all must be laid down before they dry completely, so you can't start one day and finish a week later. Hope this helps and explains somewhat. Maybe more info than needed, and maybe you know it all already, but hey I like typing. Carl
  24. Marcarl
    Man that was fast,,,,,now let me see,,,,was that a halffast job???????? Oh never mind boss, just hope you still have some humor left at the end of the day. God Bless and mind your missus once now.
  25. Marcarl
    If you plan to pull the switch apart, watch out for the spring inside and the parts that come before it (little plastic round thing in the end) These tend to become supper for the scoot and then it's a new switch, like it or not. Actually, I'd advise to save yourself some time and frustration buy the new switch, I played with mine for a year and never was really happy with the results until a new one was installed.
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