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Grisolm1

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Everything posted by Grisolm1

  1. Grisolm1
    Dunlop E3 rear for my 1st Gen. I brought the wheel in. $180 something with mounting at RJ's Motorsports in Nashua. The owner, Roger, is a great guy who cares about the customer and the sport. Always seems to have happy employees and customers in his shop when I go in. First time to put tires on this bike. I couldn't believe how involved it was to get to the rear tire so 1.5 hrs labor seems totally reasonable if you have the shop take the bike in.
  2. Grisolm1
    I've had a Lenovo S10 netbook for almost 2 years. All netbooks use basically same CPU and Graphics processor so doesn't matter too much which one you get. Look for keyboard, screen, support and battery life you can live with. The Lenovo had the biggest screen at the time. No issues and is a great 2nd computer with the limitations of processing power and no CD. 2 hour battery life is typical of standard batteries. If I were to do it again I'd go for the Toshiba 12" or equivalent. Just a little bit bigger but the keyboard looks easier to use. The keyboards on the true "Netbooks" are a little on the small side.
  3. Grisolm1
    Never seen this and I regularly run to 7500 through the lower gears.
  4. Grisolm1
    What years 2nd Gen starters have 4 brushes? Seems this might be a better way to go. They are on E-bay all the time. I'm thinking of upgrading to one this winter.
  5. Grisolm1
    I know it WAS wired correctly. I put a switch in to ground the wire coming off the thermostatic switch (I think, my memory isn't what it used to be ) It worked all year till just now. Could be an intermittent connection in my wiring or possibly a fan going flaky. Cooler out now so it's not urgent. I'll just stay out of traffic when possible and let my right wrist to the cooling duties. Winter project.
  6. Grisolm1
    I have a fan over ride switch but lately my fan seems to work only when IT decides to. Usually only when cold, not when I need it to work. Fan failures haven't been brought up here but figured I'd ask before troubleshooting the wiring.
  7. Grisolm1
    I'm in Paypal sent.
  8. Grisolm1
    There is a disable wire that is the safety cutout circuit for the side stand and tip over switch. Remove this wire from the TCI and see if that changes things. Be sure to re-install this safety circuit when the problem is corrected. Also I have heard of problems with the kill switch on the handlebars being intermittent.
  9. Grisolm1
    I've had good luck with other cracks on the venture (not trunk) using JB weld and some window screen pushed into the JB weld in the repair area. JB takes a day to set properly. http://worcester.craigslist.org/mcy/1932489351.html I just bought some parts from this guy. He has a gold trunk.
  10. Grisolm1
    Tom I'll try to get a pic of mine up. Been working 14 hour days (but happy to be working) so just want to RIDE when I have time. Brian You may well be on the money. I didn't look too closely at the tabs but I "think" they may have been straight or good right angled otherwise I would have noticed. I had the whole assembly apart so I was thinking maybe it wasn't as well lined up on the carb holder brackets but I couldn't figure any other way to fix it. Anyway 5 minutes with the link bar in a vice and hammer and I had it knocked. It wasn't really a Z bend more of a very shallow U bend just to make the link about 1/8" shorter. Put over 5K miles on this setup with no issues.
  11. Grisolm1
    Picked up a factory compressor and suspension controller to add to my VR Std. What's the capability of these units to fill a tire in a roadside repair? Rather than trying to hook the hoses to the existing fork and shocks permanently I'm thinking of just having a hose with a schrader valve to do triple duty. Manual shock air up and emergency roadside repair. I carry a small cigarette lighter compressor now but it's pretty lame and takes up space.
  12. Grisolm1
    "Any chance you might grace us with the name of the company? " Just dug it up http://magnumshielding.com/brake_lines.htm
  13. Grisolm1
    Tom Mine sounded REALLY bad when I bought the bike last fall. When I put my Barnett kit in I noticed a "significant" amount of wobble and was convinced this was a big problem and the cause of the noise. Others on the board said some is normal and not to worry about it. Full carb rebuild and synch has eliminated 90% of the noise. I also had to put a small z bend in the linkage arm connecting right to left carbs otherwise I couldn't get the butterflys close evenly on the bench. I'm betting this was a big part of the noise with one being much more open than the others. I think my carb synch is still a little off, tubing with ATF doesn't work too good; but no time to build a better sych tool yet. Still not as quiet as I might like but not bad for a 22 year old beast with almost 70K miles. I'm averaging 39MPG so can't be too far off the mark. PS saw your pics of the trunk mod. We do have the exact same color scheme. First time I've seen another one like it. Wally
  14. Grisolm1
    Vmax needles must be slightly longer than stock. At the geometry around this part of the carb it doesn't take much. Float adjustment is done using clear hose and checking level against centerline of carb body. The manual outlines this fairly clearly. Make sure you know which hose goes to which carb, they may be crossed left to right. The level is somewhere around 15-16 mm below centerline if I remember right. Your problem (too much) seems opposite of having Vmax needles (too little).
  15. Grisolm1
    I used a Vmax carb rebuild kit on mine from K&L. Had to adjust all the floats as the needle was a different length and made the level far too low.
  16. Grisolm1
    Walmart sells camp stove percolator for about $12.
  17. Grisolm1
    VR std here so no compressor either. Front 19psi Rear 60psi Damper #3 I arrived at this a a good compromise for solo (I'm every bit of 260lbs) and 2 up riding without adjusting. A little on the firm side but I like it. Progressive front springs are on the winter to do list. I aired rear up to 72 psi once during a 2 up trip. Felt like a buckboard when I went back solo. 60 psi is much better.
  18. Grisolm1
    My wheel splines were (actually still are) pretty toasted. Hopefully this is all it is on yours. Just picked up another wheel hub from a local guy selling some venture parts. Easy to replace when the wheel is off.
  19. Grisolm1
    Based on the responses I'll go with EBC HH in the right front caliper and a DIY stainless line just for that circuit. Less than $100 for all. There is a company that makes a mix and match stainless kit. You order the correct banjo's and the line for your application. The banjo has a special fitting, cut the line to length, insert and tighten the fitting.
  20. Grisolm1
    I'm researching the best way to drastically improve front brakes while keeping my integrated brakes intact. I really like the integrated system as it keeps the rear from locking and does a pretty good job stopping the bike. My front brake is "OK", but I know it can be a lot better. Options to consider mixing and matching R1 Caliper 14mm master cylinder from 03 FJR or newer Star V Twin EBC HH pads in stock caliper Stainless lines I know I can use the 14mm master in conjunction with a pair of R1's as many have done, but then I lose the integrated brakes. Anyone put on a single R1 right front caliper and did you use stock or 14mm master? Stainless will be a must. Any real world experience is appreciated.
  21. Grisolm1
    " The input shaft stayed with the pumpkin indicating that the shaft was also intact.)" Your pinion shaft IS intact if this happened. Don't ask me how I know........
  22. Grisolm1
    I was asking myself the same question so bought 1986 back issues of Cycle World and Cycle Guide from E-bay with comparison tests of the Venture MkII to other tourers of the day (GW, Voyager, Cavalcade, HD FLH, and some others) to see what folks said when these relics were new. Cycle World was predominantly Gold Wing with Yamaha coming in a close 2nd to the reviewers. There was no #3. I found this puzzling since they had big problems with the Gold Wing's air suspension and had to continually stop to air it up. Cycle Guide rated Yamaha's "Highway Hotrod" as they called it #1 and GW a close second. High marks for power and riding position. Nothing but the BMW K100 could come close to keeping up with the Yamaha in straight line acceleration. Nothing but the Yamaha could come close to the BMW in the twisties. Their comments on the Kawi were it was nice with a lot of features while not as well sorted out package as some of the others. But a bargain at the price for the time. Since you can do anything you want to a 20+ year old bike you can make either into what you want. Buought right for the condition and you can't go wrong with either.
  23. Grisolm1
    What about Vmax starters? 4 Brushes instead of 2 I think.
  24. Grisolm1
    Sorry I can't get any pics up. 14 hour days give me little time to do anything lately. Then the wife whines louder than my rear end did. Suffice to say it's REAL obvious if you pull your pumpkin off. All you will see in the pumpkin end is splines on the pinion shaft itself and the stub of the broken threaded end. The drive shaft will have the receiver cup/hub/spline thingy attached. When you pull the receiver thingy off the driveshaft the broken nut/piece of pinion shaft falls out with the spring.
  25. Grisolm1
    Vmax is another option. Seems to be a LOT more Vmax pumpkins on Ebay than MkII's. I got one from a supposed 12Kmi 85 for $100 plus $30 shipping. It was clean enough to believe the mileage. Bolts right in. Use your MKII driveshaft, no need to swap swing arm. I didn't note any offset difference. Axle ended up at same place. I would assume if there was an offset difference the axle would have ended up in a different position laterally. Bike really likes the 10% higher revs. Zero effect on gas mileage even cruising at 5K RPM @ 80MPH
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