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Grisolm1

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Everything posted by Grisolm1

  1. Grisolm1
    Other than street racing (OH... but, I've NEVER:no-no-no: done THAT:whistling:), Magazine test times are the only true apples to apples comparison most us have. BUT I've go to think a 3.6 sec 0-60 magazine time is really closer to 4-5 secs for most of us poor slobs who actually own the machinery. Testers make a living thrashing machines they don't own, wear the best free safety gear and often have an ambulance standing by. Plus the manufacturers WANT the testers to wring the living snot out of those machines so they can publish the best times. Where do I apply?
  2. Grisolm1
    1st gen MkII for comparison from Cycle Nov 86 road test 1/4 mi 12.55 @ 104.44 0-60 3.60 sec 45-70 3rd gear 3.20 sec 4th gear 4.40 sec 5th gear 5.92 sec Speed @ 7500 RPM 1st gear 47 2nd gear 68 3rd gear 90 4th gear 113 5th gear 133 (They stated they backed at 115 so unclear if this is actual?) I've never driven a 2nd Gen but think it should do sub 6 sec 0-60 easily. Anyone have a Cycle road test?
  3. Grisolm1
    Skydoc I was planning the R1 caliper upgrade for my 88 VStd Caliper(s), EBC-HH, SS lines anything else? Do I replace both front's? PM me, I can paypal you.
  4. Grisolm1
    Just a comment.. in my Guzzi's w/o roller lifters newer energy conserving oils are a BIG no no. These newer car oils have none of the moly additive to protect the cams and lifters. Yammy V4 doesn't have roller lifters either, 99% of cars do have roller lifters now.
  5. Grisolm1
    Try an old harley trick. Bleed as well as you can, top up the master then tape lever to grip (i.e. full on), loosen cap and let sit overnight. Bubbles can then make their way up the system and escape through the open port in the resevoir made by the pulled in lever. Not sure it will fix problem but worth a try i nothing else works
  6. Grisolm1
    Not enough experience yet on these machines to say what's normal but pumpkins are cheap enough on E-bay and many go unsold. This tells me that that. 1. Not a big expense to replace if it is bad. 2. If it was a systemic problem (like crumbling plastic) they would be selling for much more. Pumpkins for Guzzi's, which seldom go bad unless abused, sell for much more than these do. Doubt many fail but yours could have.
  7. Grisolm1
    Starter solenoid from any late 60's ford product should do the job. Never tried one on a bike but they have large amperage input and output posts and 12V solenoid control so should be easy to figure out how to wire up. Look under the hood of any mustang, falcon, etc from that era and they are mounted prominently on the firewall. Probably a little larger than ours but not too big.
  8. Grisolm1
    I have Gerbings heated jacket liner and gloves with dual control. No pants or socks, I use a good wool socks and a set of rain pants, no problem there. Ran on highway last year with an unfaired bike on the highway 28 degrees, 80 mph, full face helmet with a neck dickie. Toasty:225:. My new (to me) 88Vstd seems to handle the load just fine even with my auxiliary lights on. Looking at the volt meter I see Much less drop plugging my suit in than I do hitting the brakes (dual tail light bulbs and Anti Dive I guess....). Actually I see no drop plugging in. Have done several multi hour rides with no issues. Heated clothes are the best investment anyone in colder climates can make, extends riding season by 3-4 months for me.
  9. Grisolm1
    Bought the K&L kits just a few weeks ago from TAS classic motorsports. They have a website and you can call them. Probably sell to you w/o ebay. The tend to specialize in older machinery.
  10. Grisolm1
    I just bought a set of 4 from Tas Classic Motorsports off ebay for ~$80 ($20 each). These are K&L kits made in Japan for the VMAX. I am told most of the stuff will fit my 88VR. Kit's have bowl gasket, flat gasket, bunch of O rings and float valve assy. Look to be fresh and of good quality. Diaphragms need to be bought separately. Will do the rebuild over the winter and add 5Bikes needle valve spacing mod.
  11. Grisolm1
    Will carb rebuild kits for the V-max work on 1st gen ventures?
  12. Grisolm1
    Noise is a little un nerving and it's NOT slight. Can feel the thumping when holding he clutch cover. But if it's normal and doesn't get worse I'll ride on. The inner basket which is connected to the tranny shaft spins free and doesn't seem to have any play so I guess?? that is OK??. I did see the post about splitting the case and replacing it due to broken cage in the bearing behind the basket. Could that be the noise I'm hearing even though the shaft spins nice? Thanks all for the quick replies.
  13. Grisolm1
    Just purchased an 88 Venture with 60K miles, history is fairly unknown but bike is clean. Clutch slips so replaced with Barnett plates and their spring kit. Clutch had, and still has, a pretty loud thumping when idling in neutral. Quiets down somewhat with lever pulled in and is smooth at >2K rpms. Like glass on the road. I noticed the outer clutch basket was fairly wobbly when I pulled the clutch pack out, maybe 1/4 - 3/8 inch depending on how it was measured. Looking around for pictures there seems to be a pressed bushing instead of a replaceable bearing for this surface. Reading other threads I deduce that this type of noise may be normal for these older Ventures. Seems there could be an issue down the road (and possibly a serious rear wheel lockup) if this wobble continues to deteriorate. Of course with the clutch pack installed you can't detect the wobble, it tightens everything up. New basket PN# 26H-16150-00-00 PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR COMP is upwards of $300 which I'm OK with if it will prevent a problem down the road but I can live with the noise if it is a known common problem that is just noise. Any opinions from veteran high mileage venture riders? Thanks from a Venture newbie.
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