-
Posts
263 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Grisolm1
-
After a 20 year hiatus my first bike was a used 2000 Road King. I liked many things about it. I can't imagine another 800 lb bike with better low speed handling, that's why the cops love em. Nothing against the bike technically except the harsh rear suspension over hard bumps, it never gave me a problem in the 20K I drove it and had 35K when I sold it. Don't know how long they would last, I figure a complete rebuild would be in order at 80K, maybe sooner. BUT I like to drive something unique, and got tired of seeing every 2 out of 3 bikes Harleys and every 5th another Road King just like mine. Yah you can cu$tomize them to the hilt but that never end$. Finally decided to sell it and get another Guzzi like I used to ride, but newer technology. Nearly an even swap for brand new one with warranty. Love the **** out of it. Bought my first gen late last season primarily to get the wife more into riding and something for me when it's wet or cold other than the Guz. My research pointed me to the Yammy over the other Jap cruisers of the era I was considering and I haven't looked back.
-
Put me down for one also
- 80 replies
-
- adjustment
- fork nut wrench
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
06 Civic Si - Fun Car to drive, quick as hell and sounds the part when the V-TEC kicks in. I refuse to teach my daughters to drive a stick otherwise it would be seeing a lot more abuse than it already does. Absolutely needs 4 good snow tires, then it's great in the winter too. With Blizzaks and the Si's positrac differential I have never have a problem in the winter. My previous car was a Lexus SC-400, nice fair weather car but the WORST I have EVER owned in the snow. Daugher #2 did me a favor by crashing it 3 winters ago, got most of my money back in insurance and she was not hurt. 04 Mazda 6 4cyl - Wifes car. Stick shift again for many of the above reasons. Test drove a 4cyl with the automatic - dooooggggg 94 Corolla This is the kids car and it looks it
-
Any ides on alternate cooling hose sections (there sure are a lot of em!) while I have my scoot apart vs buying expensive OEM parts. How many have had problems with coolant hoses or am I Just being anal. They look fine but are over 20 years old now.
-
Celebrity Image Pink Floyd Dark Side Of The Moon 331476
Grisolm1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums
From the album: icon
-
Hope this keeps someone from getting stranded (or worse) on their 1st Gen. Check the short throttle cables - from the plastic junction box on left of the frame (where cruise cable connects) - to the carb assy. Mine pull side was frayed to within 2-3 small strands remaining where it hooks to the carbs. If it had let loose on the road it would not be a fun walk home. I only caught this Sunday during my first carb off cleaning. Fairing is removed now (was actually really easy), but I think you could inspect this in place with a flashlight. Look up between the left side intake manifolds, you may see the cable to the carb linkage coming down out of a tube, thats where it frays. I since found posted elsewhere here these tend to let go at 40-60K on 1st Gens. Mine has 61K. Had to dig to find this info, so hopefully this puts it in a more prominent place. Snow is at least good for one thing - maintenance........ Can't wait to get the old girl back on the road with her new clean carbs, Diaphraghms, valve adjust, plug wires etc.
-
I've heard that the Barnett is just a MK1 design with probably stiffer springs. I have the full barnett kit in mine and looking at Mk1 pics can believe it. Can't give you an honest before/after assessment as my VSTD slipped pretty bad when I bought it. Clutch pull is harder than before but not unreasonable. Doesn't slip anymore. Barnett supposedly sells a stiffer spring set, probably for the VMAX guys.
-
Manifold O-rings Float level Setup
Grisolm1 replied to Grisolm1's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I was planning to use a squeeze bottle to supply fuel under slight pressure to the fuel inlet with carbs flat on the bench. Good to know I can tap into an existing hose on the carb to measure it. I'll also make a before measurement as suggested. Any issues with this method? -
Getting ready to tear into my 88Vr to do carbs, valve adjust etc. OringsUSA.com sells most any type/size of O-ring cheap $0.50 for quality viton vs $6 each from dealer. Based on Yammy part number the Manifold to head O-rings are 45mm, not sure of thickness. Anybody ever gotten these from other sources than Yammy. What do you guys use to set float levels. I'm thinking you need to have a replacement bowl plug with a nipple threaded in to accept some clear tubing. This is the best forum ever to answer these cheap bastard (which I am) questions.
-
I tried to wire my ipod through this connector. Volume was WAY too low, tried another MP3 player and had same issue. When first powered the volume was louder for a second or so then dropped to a whisper. I ended up using an FM transmitter but if anyone has a clue how to wire this up correctly I'll try again.
-
I tried to wire my ipod through this connector. Volume was WAY too low, tried another MP3 player and had same issue. When first powered the volume was louder for a second or so then dropped to a whisper. I ended up using an FM transmitter but if anyone has a clue how to wire this up correctly I'll try again.
-
Great. Do you have shims as well?
-
I'm looking for a place to buy the valve shim tool for less than $70-80. Anyone here have luck getting the $34 tool mentioned in this thread. Oldbikebarn doesn't have it listed anymore. Justav.com has it listed but the site looks a little sketchy. If someone has had good experience with Justav.com then I'll go for it.
-
Current draw of brake circuit
Grisolm1 replied to Grisolm1's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Thanks guys, looks like it's normal - ride on -
When using either front or rear brake, my lights dim significantly and I loose about 2-3V on my volt meter, at any engine RPM. Turning my pair of 35W driving lights on or off or plugging in my electric riding gear has no similar effect on the electrical system. No problems charging, starting, battery seems strong, run my electric gloves and vest with no issues. Is this normal for a 1st Gen (maybe antidive actuator)? Or should I look for an excess current draw somewhere? Dual brake lights appear to work, look normal. Thanks Wally
-
There is an 84 Mk1 Std near my house, has the 2nd gear problem but is really clean ~27K mi and CHEAP. Haven't driven it yet but owner says it runs well, he had it sold but the buyer balked on the test drive when it "had a shifting problem". He said "make me an offer, I want it out of my way" Thinking of buying as a parts store for my 88 but my research says a lot of parts wont fit (but a lot will). Can the Gen 1 experts here confirm or correct my list. Thanks Parts that WILL fit ???? Carbs Clutch basket Starter Stator Regulator/rectifier TCI Fairing plastic header pipes & Collector Misc Electronics components Gas tank Fuel Pump Radiator & Fan Instrument cluster Clutch master & slave Brake master (F&R) Engine (If I fixed 2nd gear) Wheels (minus rotors) Parts that WONT fit ???? Bags Trunk crash bars pumpkin drive shaft u joint rotors brake calipers fork
-
88 Venture std. Bought 6 weeks ago with 59Kmi, 61Kmi now and loving it
-
I'd look into the pulsing. If it's noticeable while driving then you may have another issue. Stator, rectifier, regulator, battery, wiring? Typical voltage with motor running >3KRPM and not a lot of extra loads should be 13.8 - 14.2V or there abouts. My dash mounted gauge seems relatively accurate (with a significant dip when the brakes are applied, not sure the cause of this, thinking its the 2 stop bulbs and the antidive). What does your dash voltage guage say? Is the pulsing noticable? Pulsing, if it exists, should be on all lights?