Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'housing'.
-
I'm getting nervous because of the amount of force I'm having to use to get the water pump off so I thought I should stop and ask someone.. I've taken 5 bolts out of the cover I've taken 4 remaining bolts out of the housing.. Does the housing just pry off now?? And I should expect the impeller to come off with the housing? I don't have to somehow remove the impeller first do I? My housing isn't budging. I see that I've got the plastic impeller so thats gotta go, along with replacing the mechanical seal and what not. -
I need the metal tube from the thermostat housing that has the bypass valve in it. The interface on the RSV/Hybrid 1st gen motor to 2nd gen cooling system is in the MvGyvering process. I am going to keep both the 1st gen & RSV thermostat housings on bike, but only have a thermostat in RSV housing. I need to do this to get the water pump hooked up to the lower radiator outlet. Plumbing is different between the two. Where the line enters the water pump is not going to accept the RSV water line, so I have to use the plastic elbow from a 1st gen, which is locked in place by the thermostat housing. This tube will be cut off between the selector valve & the thermostat housing and brazed shut. I need to do this to block off this port on the 1st gen thermostat housing. Out of all the parts I have, I can't find this one. Gary -
I thought that all 1st Gen Choke Switch are all the same. Located at the bottom of the switch housing. What years are between Switch Housing and the hand Grip?
-
So, it looks like there is a very slight seeping leak around the top of the thermostat housing. But, the biggest leak that showed up is where the tube that comes between the "valve" and goes into the side of the thermostat housing. This seems to be a pretty good leak that just started after changing the coolant. Is there a "kit" that has all the o-rings and gaskets for the thermostat housing, or do I need to purchase each one separately ? Any input from others that have done this, what looks like a real pain in the @$$ job ?
-
So I'm trying to re-mount my R/R that fell of the other day. (I would copy the link to my previous post and pics but I haven't figured out how to do that yet) The bracket that the exhaust hanger mounts to, as well as the R/R, is slightly bent now and I'm not sure if the forward mount for the R/R is correct. So my question(s) is... Does the front of the R/R mount to bolt that also secures the fuel pump and is the R/R suppose to touch the drive shaft housing at all, cuz mine is. I still need to straighten the exhaust hanger bracket to properly secure the rear portion of the R/R but it seems, based on the pics, that the R/R will still be in contact with the drive shaft housing, towards the front, and I'm assuming that moves as the rear suspension is "activated." Can someone confirm that proper mounting for the R/R on my 86 VR and possibly post a pic for my visual brain?
-
Can anyone inform me of which " xenon or hid bulb to install in my 03 venture..i dont want to replace the housing ..just the bulb on my headlight and passing lamps...thanks.
-
I need some help...I just recently switched to LED turn, run and brake lighting. They work great thanks to Custom Dynamics. I also changed my driving lights to LED Sun spots and they too are great. So here's the problem: I have a Phase 7 LED headlight to replace the original, but HOW DO YOU OR CAN YOU REMOVE THE METAL HOUSING BUCKET FROM THE GLASS? I need the housing in order to mount the new LED bulb. Is this possible because without the metal housing I cannot mount the new LED bulb? If I cannot use the metal housing can anyone shed some light on a possible alternate solution. I really cannot use the LED driving lights with a regular headlight bulb because it doesn't look good at all. Thanks in advance:) Jakbag
-
I got the rear housing / gears from a VMax and swapped this out with mine on the 2008 RSTD. I don't have the rear wheel back on as yet as I wanted to take the time to check the drive pins before re-installing. My questions are; on the forum someone mentions two special tools required to change the drive housing. One, I assume, is to hold the coupling up inside of the fork tube to make it easier to get the drive shaft spline into it. The other is for some sort of bearing retainer? I didn't have either tool. One thing I did do was to start the driveshaft into the coupler, then push it into the housing aligning the spring, etc. Then I slid the entire assembly together and started the acorn nuts. Anything I may have missed on the rear housing end by doing this?
-
I thought this might be of interest to you GL1800 0wners. Installation is fairly easy. 1 Remove the screw through the bottom of the housing. You'll need a good phillips screwdriver, the factory screw has loctite. 2 Wiggle the mirror while pulling it toward you. It will slide out eventually. On the bench the factory mirror is on the right. 3 Mirror housing with mirror removed. 4 From the front of the motorcycle, peel back the rubber boot to expose the wires and connector. 5 The wires are long enough to pull out in order to install the supplied harness. You have to lift the catch on the factory connector to disconnect it. 6 New harness connected, ready to fish through to the inside of the mirror housing. 7 Muth mirror turn signal connector protruding into the mirror housing. A little tricky to get it in there, just be patient and work with it. 8 Wires connected, I have them on top to better show them. Actual installation was with wires laying on the bottom of the housing. The extra length of wire was pulled back to the outside of the mirror housing and stored inside the fairing by the rubber boot. 9 Carefully slide the assembly into place, making sure the two tabs at the top are properly inserted into the factory bracket. Install the supplied screw. Viola!!! A turn signalling mirror.
-
Dark red Gen 1 turned west on SE 44th Street from S. Sooner Road. Then turned south into housing area. Anyone from here?
-
I'm sure this has been covered, but I thought it bears repeating. My starter cranked very weak. All connections were great and little loss through the solenoid. Skydoc_17 suggested that I install a VMAX starter (4 brush vs. 2 brush), which he sold me at discount (thanks). This Totally solved my problem-period! I read a tutorial somewhere that detailed removing exhaust pipes (it's not that involved and you don't need to disconnect the exhaust)! You DO need to remove the radiator and lower hoses. The bypass tube leading from the thermostat housing and the housing itself (remove the plastic elbow from the water pump and take the entire assembly out). Use new O-rings for everything and use some vasoline to lube them (or something similar). I have a first Gen and I needed to remove the air dam and it was easier with the right side crash bar removed. I spent about 3 hours, but I changed the thermostat and did some other things as well. I should have taken pictures, but that would have cut into my drinking time!
-
Anyone currently drive or used to own an Olds Silhouette, Chevy Venture or the like? I have an 03 Olds Silhouette that the left front turn signal bulb went out. Thought easy enough to change out (and it normally is). Well the bulb actually melted into the signal housing. If you look at the hole the bulb goes through, the entire circle is bubbling like the bulb gets too hot for the plastic housing. Looked at the right side and same thing with the bubbling. The issue is on the left side the socket the bulb plugs into got so hot it has what looks like burn marks around the socket and became brittle. So what happened is part of the socket broke in pieces so it was no longer held in place. So the bulb touched the side of the housing and melted to the side. Found replacement parts for the socket and housing. Even found led bulbs that I wonder if that would be cooler. Just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues?
-
If you have a light bar, are the turn signals the stock ones and just relocated to the lightbar? The lightbar was already on the bike when I bought it. Had an oops moment yesterday. I was taking off the old front amber lense (clutch side) to put on a new clear one. One screw was stubborn and didn't want to come out. The lense itself eventually broke and so did the screw. Unfortunately It broke pretty flush with the part that it screws into in the turn signal housing so only option was to drill out the screw. I will say that I am usually good at drilling out old bolts and such. Well this is one time I wasn't. I didn't have the correct angle so ended up drilling out completely part of the hole the screw goes into. So the option I see is replace the turn signal housing. I also want to get another amber lense in case I ever want to go back to stock or go to LED signals (thanks Freebird for the input on matching led color to lense for brightness). Are the front and rear signal housing interchangable? Any suggestions?
-
Trying to rescue my daughters boyfriends car. He filled the tank up and shortly after the car started stuttering and stalling and will start again after a few minutes but has no power on a hill and will stall out again. I'm thinking bad gas and/or it is clogging the fuel filter. It's a 1988 Cutlass with the 5 Ltr. Working from memory that car has a fuel fitler that screws into the carb body with either a filter inside of the barrel housing or the barrel housing itself is a filter. I'm pretty sure it has steel fuel lines. Anybody have any info on that. Headed out in a bit to see what I can do. Be nice to grab the right filter on the way. Thanks Mike
-
I've been fighting with the cover on the thermostat housing leaking on my '89. When I bought it 2 1/2 years ago, it had a small leak. I took the thermostat housing off and changed all 4 O rings. Everything was fine---for a little while. A month or two later it started leaking intermittantly. Usually when left outisde in the cold, but not always. Last winter I pulled it off again and replaced the O rings again, and also the housing cover because it was mentioned here that they do warp from the exhaust pipe heat. BTW, I put it together with O-rings I purchased at my dealer. It was OK all last year, but this winter it started leaking again. The coldest my garage gets during the winter is about 32 degrees F. When I took it apart, I found that the O-ring was damaged (it looked like it'd been nicked). I remember that it was real hard to get the top on the housing last year and the OE O-ring is 2mm dia., so I installed a 1/16" O-ring. Now it seeps a little bit when it starts to warm up, but when it's hot it's fine. BTW, 1/16"=.0625" 2mm=.079" I will pick up a Yamaha O-ring tomorrow, but I think that something else is wrong because it's happening so frequently. I cleaned up the main housing surface that mates wtih the O-ring so there shouldn't be anything keeping the O-ring from seating. With the 1/16 O-ring, the top felt snug. When I use a 2mm O-ring, it is TIGHT. I'm pretty certain that on my 83' I used a 3/32" (.094") O-ring, but there is no way I could get that to fit this bike. I used a coating of Vaseline to keep from damaging the O-rings when things were assembled. Any ideas?? I'm thinking of heating up the aluminum portion of the housing (in hot water) to get it to expand so that the top will go on easier and not damage the 2mm O ring. Frank D.
-
Hey Guys!------I changed the "thermastat housing" and all the hoses on my 89 Royale and now it seems to be running "hot"---any ideas why this could be?---I have the plastic drain plug at the bottom of the radiator with the "off" mark at the "2-O-clock" position like someone on here said was the correct place for it-----It seemed to cool down some after I returned from the initial run and let it idle with the fan runnining------I actually revved it up to about 9000 rpm's one quick time to see if maybe something was stuck and the temp guage seemed to drop to about 3/4 way up (at least it was in the green area after I did that)----I used the same thermostat that came with the housing because it had only 29,000 mi. on it---Do you guys think maybe it was just kinda stuck?----i sure hope that's all it is:fingers-crossed-emo..................................................Larry
-
When I bought the 86 Vr the owner said the hydraulic clutch needed to be rebuilt and when I played with it that is all it seemed to be. I had spare rebuild kits for the master cylinder and slave so I went about fixing it today and low and behold someone had tried fixing the slave and ruined the housing now I need to find a slave cylinder housing.
-
My late winter maintenance this year is to change out all the hoses, thermostat, o-rings in thermostat housing and thermo switch at housing. As some of you know I have a lot of miles and it is past nine years old. I plan a 5,000 mile ride in April so I am going to start on this soon. My question is "is there anything else I should be looking at". Last spring I put new tires on and lubed the swing arm, pins, and differential. I change the rear oil when I change the engine oil and clean the K&N filters. After these 135,000 miles this bike has been flawless although I lost the CB last summer.
-
I am switching from the OEM grips to ISO grips from Kuryakin. Left side was a breeze. Is there any secret to accessing the screws on the throttle body housing? Seems like the faring is in the way of getting a screwdriver in there with leverage.
-
While wiring in the isolator circuit for my trailer wiring harness, I came across this rubber hose.... it's to the right (throttle side) of the battery, up against the inside of the frame. The one end can be pulled out to expose a small hole (as seen in the second photo). It looks like the other end attaches to the housing around the rear shock. I'm sure one -- or many -- of the experts here can educate me as to what this is? Thanks, in adavance.
-
I have read a couple of posts about cleaning the contacts in the kill switch. Can someone explain how to get at them. I split the housing and see a white block under the red switch, does the red switch pop off the top of the housing and the block pull out to get at the contacts? Thanks.. -
I've not been satisfied with the Ajure passing lamp lens and I would like to go to a halogen housing. So I'm still wondering if the Vstar lamps will fit on the Venture light bar? The catalog says they are not for the Venture and I just wonder why they won't work. I know the switch is on the housing so it would be tough to reach if that was the only switch. Any other reasons? Dennis -
Pinion bearings failed, can't get the outer race out of the rear drive unit.the outer race is still in the housing. It would appear that this remaining race has been staked by what ever has marred the housing around the periphery of that bore which the outer race mates to. It is my assumption that the needle bearing into a (blind hole), (terminology?) would be of a slip fit. I may just be beating a dead horse trying to fix it, but I can't ride,what else can I do while I watch for one on ebay! Any one got a used pumpkin for a second Gen they want to part with?
-
How do I remove the ring gear from the differential bearing housing? I need to adjust the backlash on the pinion gear. I have zero backlash as it is. This is an FJR rear end, but it is essentially the same as a 1st gen. There is a shim under ring gear I need to replace, as well as changing the thrust washer which is accessible. I have ring gear and bearing plate separated from main housing, does it need to be pressed out, or just lightly tapped out? Parts breakdown shows no retainer clips. Gary
-
Not sure how or why, but the audio controller housing is cracked and the bottom edge has fallen off. It still works but I think only the wires are holding it on. Does anybody have a "dud" controller with a good housing???
.thumb.JPG.bfcefdc0995aabc77d6b4e8cf9125c91.JPG)
.thumb.JPG.9b9156ccbbfe45097177e3bd18bd417d.JPG)
