Jump to content

warthogcrewchief

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    239

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    I had a problem with cylinders not firing... turned out it was two seperate issues: The first was the spark plug wires (cheap, quick fix). The second issue was the recently replaced (four months old) spark plugs. I had a plug that was bad! I had never seen that until this time. These plugs are a little finicky. While you have everything off, you should test the four coils and the electronic control module. There are instructions listed on this site, but I forget where... I'll look around.
  2. warthogcrewchief
    All lights are incandescent, none LED. When toggling the high beam/low beam switch, the warning light goes out. I had the high beam indicator go out once, but it came back on a little later. The warning light hasn't come on for a few days, but am expecting it to return. When I get some time, I'll attempt the re-solder, or swap out CMS units. I didn't think of the brake light being a problem (inop). I'll look into that too.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    I've reviewed the headlight posts and can't seem to find a solution to my problem. I have an idea what it is. The headlight warning kicks on randomly, but the headlight remains lit. If I toggle the high beam/low beam, the light goes out for a little while. It was with just the high beam, and would go off when I switched to low beam. Now it will come on randomly on either low or high beam and will randomly go out (the warning, not the headlight). Flipping the headlight switch usually works temporarily. I'm wondering if it's an issue of Computer cold-soldering...or a bad headlight switch? Any ideas? Thanks.
  4. warthogcrewchief
    I found an aftermarket (Markland, I think) backrest designed for a 1200 Gold Wing. It fit a little snug, but works well.
  5. warthogcrewchief
    I had a similar problem with my '89. It would rise up to 3K RPM, and sometimes idle high. After checking the throttle cables and syncing the carbs and it doesn't fix it, check the float levels.
  6. warthogcrewchief
    Yep, just like aircraft...if you don't fly/ride them, they'll start having problems creep up. I've heard of carbs gumming up in as little as two weeks. However I've seen bikes sitting for a year and fire right up... running seafoam is probably the best thing you can do as it's a cheap/quick fix. If it doesn't, start going down the list, from easiest to hardest.
  7. warthogcrewchief
    If I were to race it on the strip, I would practice my technique in a wide open and safe location. Begin with normal start offs, then slowly increase the RPM with each start off. Find that sweet point in your clutch engagement and use that to your advantage. I would also consider cutting weight off the bike. Remove the trunk and saddle bags to save a lot of weight. If I remember correctly, one once said that 3 lbs of weight lost is equilvent to a perceived 1 HP increase.
  8. warthogcrewchief
    My thought was a lean condition too. A lean condition could be from: - a vacuum leak - air box assembly not seated - oil drain hose on bottom of air box not connected - cracked carb boots - floats adjusted too low. I recently spent almost two months troubleshooting what I thought was a vacuum leak. Turns out it was the floats adjusted too low. The idle would climb, because I had to have it adjusted high to run at 1,000 rpm. As the bike got warm, the idle would return to "normal" at about 3K RPM. The idle would also climb up to 3 and 4K when riding. If you have this indication, I would recommend a float adjustment. I found a great way to do a bench check without having to mess around with reinstalling everytime you do a minor adjustment!
  9. warthogcrewchief
  10. warthogcrewchief
    If the CLASS control unit display has only the top plastic cracked and not the LCD glass, it's a very easy and cheap fix to do. After removing the unit, remove the face, then you'll see on the inside the top clear plastic piece on the display unit. It's only glued in. You can remove it to make a new piece from plastic purchased at your local hobby shop or hardware store. Then glue it back in there with super glue.
  11. warthogcrewchief
    Someone asked me how I converted my Tape Deck to a MP3 Player. The best info I have is here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41100 I used Scotty's and Frankd's schematics to come up with one that works between the two. Here is a simplified color diagram I created. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/SimpliedInstructionsforMP3Input.jpg Here is where I located my 3PDT switch. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0955.jpg Here is the "tray" I made out of (aprox.) 1/4" thick clear acrylic plastic. I cut it out using a dremel and razor blades and then glued them using plastic glue. I got some simple hinges and drilled holes and screwed in screws (put plastic glue on threads). http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0956.jpg I then cut off the rest of the screw that protruded through the plastic (cut slowly because it heats up fast!). After that, I placed a drop of glue over the rest of screw in hopes of it staying in place. After it's all dry and the holes are cut, I painted it with flat black paint on the inside and the blue paint to match the outside. Oh, almost forgot the magnetic latch assembly I installed as well... It was a pain to cut the plastic out and get it to fit...lots of glue to fill the voids. I also had to cut into the plastic face to make it fit. Notice the screws I used to hold it in place so that it doesn't shift. That may be required to keep it in place. Once again, cut off the excess protruding screw and cover it with either RTV or glue to prevent any scratching of items placed in there and backing out of screw. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_1056.jpg I found a "marine" grade 12V outlet. In installed it and then made one wire connect to a ground on the frame. The other wire connects to the right side of my accessory fuse spade and then the left side of the accessory fuse connects to the positive battery terminal. NOTE: I'm using the fuse box made by Skydoc_17 that mounts in place of the factory fuse box. *Something not mentioned in my schematic is that the common (ground) wire inside the 3.5mm headset wire is usually unshielded wire wrapped around each (Left and Right stereo) wire. You'll have to unravel the bare wire and twist the two together to make a common ground that connects to the black wire from the bike's cassette harness. EDIT: Here is where I found the "Marine Grade" 12v Outlet at Amazon.com [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1274422515&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: Marine Grade Cigarette Lighter Socket 12 VDC: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31BRN43V71L.@@AMEPARAM@@31BRN43V71L[/ame]
  12. warthogcrewchief
    I know a place that has them for $165 + shipping. https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=VMAX&category=engine
  13. warthogcrewchief
    Good luck finding the front (driver's) floorboards! I've been looking and keeping an eye out for a set (at a reasonable price) to install on my '89. When I find them, they're usually gone just as fast as I had found them. They are a HOT item! Ebay may be a good place to start. As far as aftermarket, if you find any, let me/us know. Thanks!
  14. warthogcrewchief
    I'm thinking that a way to prevent future play and subsequent wear would be to tap a steel sleeve into the kickstand assembly. If a single full length sleeve wouldn't work, then would two work? The ID (Inside Diameter) of the sleeve should closely mate up with the OD (Outside Diameter) of the bolts grip (un-threaded portion). Keeping that bolt well lubed will help to prevent galvanic corrosion (caused when two different metals in contact with each other come in contact with an electrolyte).
  15. warthogcrewchief
    Your best bet is to take the lock assembly to a locksmith with the key you want it to be keyed to. The locksmith can use special tools to turn (and unlock) the cylinder. From there, he should be able to get the tumblers out and swapped. My father-in-law fixes locks and things of that sort for his profession..and showed me how to get the helmet locks apart (not to different from the ignition cylinder). Unfortunately, he showed me AFTER I had already cut the locking arm as I didn't have a key!
  16. warthogcrewchief
    Pictures!?!
  17. warthogcrewchief
    I heard from a venture owner/Yamaha dealer that he used full Synthetic Valvoline motor oil. I tried it out when I installed my Progressive forks. They work well, are a little stiff, but still rides extremely well. I think it was the 5w-20 or the 10w-30....I forget which viscosity I used. BTW, I fixed almost everything including the forks before I rode it, so I don't have a before/after comparison. I have no complaints from this setup! The important part is to ensure you have equal measurements in both forks (get them as equal as possible) or you could have uneven forks which can lead to a plethora of issues!
  18. warthogcrewchief
    I got mine from amazon.com. I found that the Rancho shock boots fit perfectly and they're a good price. It requires a little cutting (cutting off about half an inch of the bottom to include the tabs). I think I got my pair for less than $10. They also make them in a variety of colors.
  19. warthogcrewchief
    Other places to check for good prices on progressive springs would be denniskirk.com , ebay , oldbikebarn.com and other aftermarket motorcycle parts sites. The springs do come in a set and also comes with any other required hardware. For instance, when upgrading to progressive springs, you are to discard the upper (smaller) spring pretension assembly and replace it with a 1-1/2" PVC tube and washers (supplied in the kit). It seems a bit cheesy at first, but after doing some research and riding with the progressive springs, it works well! Just checked: Denniskirk, they have them for $83 + shipping. Old Bike Barn has them for $70.95 + shipping! When looking, just type in "11-1112" (the progressive part number for our bikes) in the Keyword or Item# box. It'll bring you right to them.
  20. warthogcrewchief
    I've heard of forks going soft on other bikes, and the forks on the Venture use the same principle as most others..with the exception of an added benefit - CLASS. The most common failure point on most forks are the oil seals. Are your forks leaking? If not, the next most common, and most neglected is the fork oil. Oil degrades or leaks out over time. The third, is the main fork spring. A lot of people have upgraded to progressive springs, and the no longer need the CLASS. I have upgraded to the Progressive springs and they work great...maybe a bit firm, but work great for handling! I also used a different oil. Instead of a normal 10 weight fork oil, I used Valvoline Synthetic (motor)oil. I think it was 10w-20. Change that oil out once a year and you shouldn't have any problems. When I first got my bike, the forks compressed too much as well. But I knew the fork seals were bad because I could see the forks were completely caked in oily dirt - a dead give-a-way for leaking forks. After opening them up, changing out the springs, bushings, seals, and oil, those forks hold really well - and I weight 210. Oh, if your forks are leaking, look at changing your front brake pads too.
  21. warthogcrewchief
    I've seen that Dakota Digital makes a mechanical to electric adapter for speedos and tachs. But I'm sure you have to use the adapter for their gauges. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=510/category_id=518/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd510.htm
  22. warthogcrewchief
    I had the same problem... Turns out one cylinder wasn't firing. I checked the TCI, checked the coils, checked the spark plug wires (changed them out anyways), and it finally turned out to be a bad spark plug...even though I had replaced it four months prior (while I was doing the rebuild). After that, she ran on the highway great despite a minor carb issue that I'm working out...waiting on parts!
  23. warthogcrewchief
    I plan on buying Sky Doc's kit sometime this next year...after I get my VR running well AND the Approving Official allows me to purchase more toys...err... parts for my bike. I do have a question, can one use the same pads that are designed for the MKII VR? Or do I need to find pads that are designed for an R1, and if so, which years?? I never did figure that out.
  24. warthogcrewchief
    That looks pretty cool. Does Dingy make those kits or did he have only one? In my mind, the wiring sounds pretty simple when you get a standard H4 male connector as to not modify the bike's original wiring harness. I too am looking forward to seeing your progress!
  25. warthogcrewchief
    When I've had to deal with stuck hardware in the past (and I deal with them everyday!), sometimes it works to tighten it just a tiny bit...just enough to break the corrosion. Then it should be easy to back out. Be sure not to over-tighten it or it could break off or strip threads. It really is just a tiny bit...enough to put cracks into the corrosion.
×
×
  • Create New...