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warthogcrewchief

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Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    I know that a few of the vacuum bib caps were old and cracked... I'll change those out when I do a carb sync. So, I guess I'll be getting a carb sync soon as I haven't done so yet.. I've been planning on doing it, just haven't decided which one to buy. I do remember reading the thread about the various carb sync gauges/tools...just gotta decide which one I'm gonna buy. I've never had a bike that performed so poorly just because of a carbs were out of sync. But then again, the V-4 configuration probably has something to do with it. Thanks again for the helpful information everyone. I'll report back with the findings when I accomplish both fixes.
  2. warthogcrewchief
    No holes drilled in the airbox, airbox boots are seated properly on the carbs. I still need to check the plugs again. I do have the case vent filter mod installed, and the holes in the airbox have been covered with those little rubber nipple covers.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    They were tight. I'll try to put fresh gas into it and see if it helps (with a little more Sea Foam).
  4. warthogcrewchief
    Today I got my '89 VR out on the road for the first time since I bought it back in August. I did notice she's a little stiff in the turns (maybe it's me..or the new tires or the fork brace). Anyways, what's getting me is that my bike is really backfiring (frequently) while I'm cruising at around 25-35 mph at approximately 3-4K RPM. She doesn't backfire while accelerating, while decelerating (using either brake or engine/transmission), or while idling. Even though I adjusted the idle knob and throttle cable before riding, she tends to run up to 2K RPM while stopped. I have cleaned out the carbs completely, have replaced the carb intake boots, the carb diaphragm, spark plugs, and doesn't appear to have any exhaust leaks. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  5. warthogcrewchief
    I'm thinking it wouldn't be too hard to turn the front vent intakes into chrome ones (good chrome paint!). Also, I wonder how hard it would be to fabricate new chrome covers like the ones y'all are looking for??
  6. warthogcrewchief
    I tell you what looks even BETTER than new and even easier than everything listed: Duplicolor makes an Engine enamel that has ceramic stuff in the paint and is good up to 500 degrees F. The aluminum color followed by the clear (high heat Engine as well) looks just like the stock Yamaha aluminum. I haven't found any other brand that can match as closely as Duplicolor for the aluminum look. I've used it on another bike ('85 XJ700 Maxim) that I restored over 10 years ago and it still looks new! I also used the same process for the rear fender braces as they were too damaged to try and "buff" out. I sanded the scratches smooth and repainted...still looks great! http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/1985XJ700-1.jpg EDIT: I forgot to add that if you paint the parts, you should probably scuff the metal up with a 400 (or even better 600) grit sand paper to ensure there is no old paint peeling up (as I've found on my '89 VR that I'm STILL restoring).
  7. warthogcrewchief
    I've got a seat, passenger backrest, and multiple arm rests from a 1st Gen MKII that I'm willing to part with. The seat and backrests need some attention, and the armrests are brown (instead of black).
  8. warthogcrewchief
    I'm thinking that those who have the chrome piece only have the right side... Perhaps Yamaha only made right sides to screw with us??
  9. warthogcrewchief
    http://www.google.com/products?q=18mm+thin+wall+spark+plug+socket&hl=en&aq=f
  10. warthogcrewchief
    If you're on a budget, and all you have is just some rust, try taking the part to a welding shop and see if they can fab a piece for you. That might be cheaper than getting a whole new exhaust system.
  11. warthogcrewchief
    Yes, you are correct. I just ordered some E3's from Bikebandit...and stupid me...I accidently ordered a 90H-19! So, I had to send it back and order the right one....more waiting for the right tire to show up! If you're ordering the back tire, there are two tires for the E3's that fit our bike. Both are 90-16's. The only difference in the code is the lettering (and a couple of dollars). However, I went to Dunlop's website and reviewed the specs for the E3. The rear tire that costs just a few dollars more actually has a higher load rating (which equates to a longer tread life). Be sure to spend the couple of extra dollars to get the one with the higher load rating! ALSO, when you get your tire, be sure the date stamp is fairly recent! I didn't do that, but the shop who mounted them for me did, and I saw mine was manufactured in December 2009.
  12. warthogcrewchief
    If you're looking to replace the cassette deck with an MP3 input, I would recommend not using an 8-pin mini din connector. The pin-outs listed in this thread seem correct, but for some reason, I didn't get great sound until I hardwired everything (not using the 8-pin connector). I even created a nifty little "storage box" with a hinged lid that is held closed with a magnetic push latch. I'm not done with the box yet, but when I am, I'll drill out the holes for the MP3 wire, the switch, and a 12v power source. Photos to come...
  13. warthogcrewchief
    Got both of mine today!
  14. warthogcrewchief
    Those four black hoses are the fuel drain lines connected to the carbs. The fuel overfill ports are designed to route the fuel through those lines instead of the engine - which could lead to catastrophic engine failure if fuel enters into the oil. Before you run your engine again, ensure your oil level isn't over the "full" mark on the sight gauge. If so, it is a good indicator you have gas in your oil. Change your oil IMMEDIATELY to prevent engine damage. If not, you're good and try to do the repairs. Some people have run seafoam through their carbs while lightly tapping the on the carbs with a rubber mallet in hopes of freeing up the floats. I am a big fan of seafoam, as it works well, and helps prevent shellacking from occuring. The floats stop "floating for one or more of the following reasons: 1) Sediments, rust, and other particles can obstruct the float from properly working. FIX: flush the carbs with fuel (mixed with seafoam) while tapping on the carbs. Do this by pulling the carb drain screw and inserting a tube (plastic or rubber) into the drain hole to route the fuel into a proper container (clear tubing is best as it allows you to see if there is anything in the fuel. If you do have stuff in the fuel, changing the fuel filter isn't a bad idea. 2) Float is stuck due to shellacking. Shellacking occurs when fuel begins to turn into shellac - coating everything in a sticky varnish like substance that eventually hardens. FIX: Some people have had luck running Sea Foam through their fuel systems to "wash" away any shellac, but when shellac is suspected, I usually pull the carbs, disassemble, do a thorough cleaning and replace any parts that look questionable. 3) The float is bad - no longer floats. FIX: The test for this requires you to remove the carbs and place the float in a small container of fuel. If it is bad (no floating), you might as well replace all four, and do a thorough cleaning of the carbs. Best option is start with the easiest/quickest/cheapest fix: Sea Foam. If that doesn't fix it, then you should remove the carbs and do the cleaning and replacement of any bad parts.
  15. warthogcrewchief
    Just remember that when you bleed the hydraulic (brake or clutch) systems, it will take a little time. These systems are a real pain to bleed. Remember that your brakes are linked. Your front master cylinder controls the front right brake caliper. Your brake (foot) pedal controls the left front and also the rear brake calipers. This, of course, is assuming the brakes haven't been modified or de-linked. I don't remember who I got this from, but I did get a color coded wiring schematic for the MKII bikes. Both are the same, except one includes the (black) ground wires.
  16. warthogcrewchief
    I've heard that using fork boots have helped to protect fork seals much longer than without. Someone said they have used Rancho shock boots for fork boots with no problems. I just ordered a set for myself, and will be pulling my forks off again to install them. I saw them on Amazon for $3.00 a piece and they make them in 5 colors. Good price for a little insurance.
  17. warthogcrewchief
    I have an old and foggy stock windscreen that's just sitting in my backyard. If you want it to cut down and paint, I would be willing to part with for a small amount of money + shipping.
  18. warthogcrewchief
    If you need any of the smaller parts, I have an extra set of forks in my storage area. I think the only bad part may be one of the inner fork slides as it was scratched up pretty bad from a burr on the inside of the washer that sits just below the oil seal. Everything else, to my knowledge, is in good condition. One may be able to use some fine emery cloth and clean it up. I also have an extra set of the spacers that fit between the bottom of the top clamps and the top of the CLASS manifold. PM or email me and we can work out a price.
  19. warthogcrewchief
    If you need any of the smaller parts, I have an extra set of forks in my storage area. I think the only bad part may be one of the inner fork slides as it was scratched up pretty bad from a burr on the inside of the washer that sits just below the oil seal. Everything else, to my knowledge, is in good condition. One may be able to use some fine emery cloth and clean it up. I also have an extra set of the spacers that fit between the bottom of the top clamps and the top of the CLASS manifold. PM or email me and we can work out a price.
  20. warthogcrewchief
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44920 Not only are the parts listed, but the required items to make the tool needed to hold the inner compression cylinder - instead of using an air wrench and possibly screwing up the soft threads of the aluminum fork housing or overtorquing the crush washer (which could cause leaking). If it's stuck, and you have no other method, use the air wrench. However, I think the best possible way to do this is make the tool (costs less than $10) to hold the cylinder in place and then use a breaker bar to get the lower bolt off, and then the tool will help you obtain the correct torque value for the bolt.
  21. warthogcrewchief
    More details please! I'd like to do this eventually (long after I get my bike road worthy). I'll have to do a few other mods first (like LED lights, and extra LED tail lights).
  22. warthogcrewchief
    When I purchased my VR, it had NO brakes or clutch. All hydraulic systems were dry. After a good flush, fill, and bleed, all systems are operational again! I'd start with the easiest first - Bleed, then look at eventually a rebuild or placement/rebuild.
  23. warthogcrewchief
    Here are some visual instructions on wiring an MP3 input.
  24. warthogcrewchief
    Well, I finally got my MP3 input hardwired in to the wiring harness. I installed a 3pdt switch to seperate the FM signal from the MP3 signal. They work great. However, I've noticed the potential of my new speakers - which works GREAT with the MP3 and is marginal with the FM radio. The FM works fine...just quiet. It preforms just as well as it did before the MP3 input mod. I just wish I could get a louder sound with the FM radio so that I could hear it better when engine is running. I haven't gotten my comm. headset yet...its in the mail. Does it all work better when the sound is piped through the headset?
  25. warthogcrewchief
    Shane, I had a similar problem...could only run decent with choke on. I don't recommend this because the fouls the plugs out quick. I replaced the diaphragms and the carb boots. The diaphragms run about $70 from a company that we have group buy with. I believe their name is Sirrus Consolidated Inc (SCI). MiCarl owns Thunder Valley Powersports and gives a discount to Venture Rider members. Here's a link to view his carb boots. You can email SCI at: sci@siriusconinc.com and indicate that this is a VentureRider order, for that price. Their part number is called SD-1. You'll need four of them, and it's pretty easy to remove and reinstall the diaphragms from the sliders. In order to get them to stay on the carb house as I install the outer cover, I used just a little bit of RTV in the groove for the diaphragm. It helps to keep the diaphragm in place and prevents a pinched point. Good luck!
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