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warthogcrewchief

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Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    If the problem truly is the gasket... one could make them from gasket material from your local auto parts store. Pull one of the old ones and make four copies. I'd do it for my bike, but I'm just too darn lazy to do it right now. I'd rather buy the gaskets, but haven't seen them anywhere.
  2. warthogcrewchief
    It wouldn't hurt to drain and refill the fork oil. It's an easy, quick task that goes a long way in preventative maintenance. I change all my fluids once a year, to include the fork oil (although, I change the engine oil more than once a year). All you've got to do is pull the rubber caps on top of the each fork, you'll see a hex head, which I believe is 17mm. I got a big allen key I use to open those up (wear gloves and safety glasses as it is spring loaded). I also pull the little drain screw on the back side of the forks near the bottom. Give it 10-15 minutes to allow it to drain. Sometimes I'll cycle the forks up and down to ensure it's all out. People normally recommend using 10 weight fork oil. I use Valvoline Synthetic (either 5W-20 or 10W-20...can't remember). Using this instead of standard fork oil has done a lot to help reduce wear in my forks. Some people will even add a little bit of Lucas Oil to their fork oil. I haven't gone that far yet. Whichever you use is as much a personal choice as it is what you use for engine oil...and that's a whole other can of worms. The service manual says to use 13.8 US oz (or 409 cc). If you have progressive springs, the manufacturer states to fill to 5 inches from the top with the fork completely compressed. Since you're doing just a regular drain/fill, go with the first set of numbers. Don't worry about getting it exact. I'd just call it 14 oz. The IMPORTANT thing is that both forks have the same amount of fluid (as best as possible). If there is a major difference in fluid between the two forks, it can cause steering problems, uneven tire wear and possible fork damage.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    The problem with old brake fluid (dot 3 or 4) is that it does attract water over time. It is recommended to change brake fluids in a vehicle once a year. When you bleed the old fluid out, the bad fluid and water will go with it. The problem with old fluid is that as it attracts more water, it does not have a place to go! Using the brake system for example, brake fluid does not expand when heated. HOWEVER, water does. If you have old fluid (w/ water in it), it can cause an un-commanded engagement of your brakes. Same applies for a clutch if it heats up enough. You can tell brake fluid is bad/needs to be changed when it changes color (usually brown). Never re-use or use opened brake fluid. If fluid has been sitting out for a while, it will collect moisture. Always use new fluid. If you are purging out old fluid and don't feel like doing a bleed on the VR (which is a lot of fun to do), be sure to leave the reservoir topped as you drain out the old fluid (by engaging brake/clutch). EDIT: Forgot to add, for those driving newer bikes and have the option of using either DOT3 or DOT4, don't mix the fluids...it can cause a nasty corrosive reaction. Never use DOT5 as none of these systems are designed for DOT5.
  4. warthogcrewchief
    Go for the ones on thundervalley. If you get the ones from ebay, you'll have to get o-rings. it's cheaper in the long run to go with thunder valley's kit as they come with o-rings. I learned the hard way...
  5. warthogcrewchief
    With all my plastic off, the rear wheel removal/installation was a breeze. If you must lower the front end, Why not make a jig or brace out of 2x4's. Remove the front wheel, reinstall the front axle into the front forks and while you install the axle, the 2x4 brace would have a hole drilled through it to hold the front axle. That would allow you to place the front end down while keeping it from falling over.
  6. warthogcrewchief
    I've been using Rotella T for my '98 Trooper for about a year now. Great Stuff! I have reservations using it in my VR because the oil also coats the clutch plates. I've heard that oil such as Amsoil causes the clutch plates. I usually stick with Valvoline or Castrol 20W-50 Motorcycle oil (depending which is cheaper at the time).
  7. warthogcrewchief
    I replaced the vacuum line from the left front carb to the vacuum sensor. I also replaced the vacuum port caps and clamps from some I found at an auto parts store. Still having the same problem. I double-triple checked the carb mounting position on the intake manifold boots and the air box boots. Doesn't seem to be off on any of them. I did notice that the air box boots do rotate, but I don't think they'll cause a problem. Just to be safe, I'm going to use clear silicone or RTV to seal the boots to the air box. I plan on also removing the carbs this weekend, removing the boots and rechecking everything again. For the butterfly shaft seals, some of you recommended a hydraulic shop? Well, I work on aircraft hydraulics every day. Would these seals that you all recommend be nothing more than a small o-ring? or are they something a little different than a simple o-ring? Would a damaged paper gasket between the carb body and the jet body (inside the float bowl) cause a lean condition? I think I may have reassembled my carbs with one that may have been potentially damaged. This carb issue is really getting on my nerves and am getting tired of working these $%$#@ carbs. I'm sure as heck not going to pay someone to work them when I have worked many carbs before in the past with great success.
  8. warthogcrewchief
    I've done more than a few motorcycle restorations. I've seen the bottom of float bowls that had the rust buildup...no serious problems. I've done a bike or two where I added 1/4 to 1/2 a can of sea foam to the gas. I was very surprised to see that those carbs were nearly spotless. I can attest to the fact that sea foam does a great job at cleaning out the carbs.
  9. warthogcrewchief
    That's what I'm starting to think... I think the new set of vacuum caps might be incorrect. I need to find a new set or do what Nacho does - get a piece of rubber hose (twice the length of the vacuum tube on the carb boot. Install the tube and fold it over, keeping it in place with two zip ties. I'd rather get new caps. The stealership wants $4 a piece and can't go back into their inventory to find caps unless they have a part number...even though I told them that they're almost the same for any bike. So, I'll be looking at parts stores, hardware stores, and online.
  10. warthogcrewchief
    If you are set on using a magnet, you could try finding a round magnet that has a hole in the middle wide enough (or bore it out to the proper width) to slide over the fuel supply line that leads from the pump to the carbs. Place one or two on either end of the fuel line so you can see if it's working. It might be worth a shot that way. Another option would be to use Sea Foam once in a while.
  11. warthogcrewchief
    I think I may have found the problem(s). I removed the air cleaner, and it appears that one of the air cleaner clamps was cockeyed a bit. I also removed the #1 carb cover and reseated the diaphragm, which solved the slider problem. With the diaphragm reseated and the intake installed correctly, the idle screw is a bit more responsive. I'll have to sync the carbs in a bit and see if, in fact, it did solve the problem. EDIT: I re-synced the carbs and they seem to be doing alright, as long as I have the carb tune pro hooked up to it. After the sync, I take the carbtune off and reinstall the three vacuum caps and the one vacuum line to the TCI/CDI. I set the idle, and it stays at idle. If I rev up the engine to 3k-4k, and hold it there for a second, it usually will not return to the 1k I set the idle at unless I back the idle screw off...in case, is usually too low for the engine. So, I figure I'll replace the caps (again) and replace the vacuum line, hoping this finally fixes the issue. I can't localize the leak using carb cleaner.
  12. warthogcrewchief
    Rust is derived from iron, so it should be magnetic. However, I think it would be better to use a filter and change it out until you have the rust removed. Keeping the fuel tank full will help to get rid of rust and clean it out.
  13. warthogcrewchief
    I think part of my problem is that I synced the carbs.... I took the air cleaner off today and looked at the bare carbs as they ran. The number 1 (Left foward) carb slider doesn't respond to throttle and seems to stick. I had to use a rubber mallet to gently tap on the carb body to get it to return to the closed position. I'm not sure if this is an issue from the diaphragms or I just need to clean up the slider. I figure I'll clean up the slider first and see how it responds after that.... that is, as soon as the Mrs. gets off my case about cleaning up the place.
  14. warthogcrewchief
    Haven't thought about that. I'll have to get some carb-out again on the carbs tomorrow to see if I can determine if there is a leak (again). If I can't find the leak, or unable to correct the leak, I will probably take the carbs off, and do a complete rebuild (again) and replace all the gaskets and seals (didn't do that last time). It does sound like an air leak... I can't seem to find the butterfly shaft seals. I've looked at carbcapital and bikebandit. Anyone know where I can find those small carb parts?
  15. warthogcrewchief
    I'm at a loss in trying to figure out what's wrong with my bike. The bike runs great, except for the fact that the idle seems to increase when it gets warm...even when I turn the idle adjust screw so low that I need to keep throttle on to keep it running. The idle screw seems to only do two things: either be too high or too low...no middle ground. Occasionally, there will be a little popping from the exhaust when the idle is running high. I'm thinking it could be a lean condition. Haven't been able to find any leaks using carb spray cleaner. For carb items, I've replaced: air filter main diaphragms carb boots (w/ new o-rings) I've also synced the carbs and there doesn't appear to be a single car that is way out of wack. With that, I'm thinking it might be something above the carbs. Any ideas??
  16. warthogcrewchief
    From what I've seen, usually the piston rings and cylinder walls are what causes low compression - requiring rings and cylinder wall honing. Hopefully it was just the head gasket. Occasionally, a stuck valve or a leaking valve seat could cause a leaking cylinder. Did you clean up the valve seats when you had the head off?
  17. warthogcrewchief
    I would be very surprised if you didn't find any cracks in your plastic. When I removed the ALL the plastics on my bike, I don't think I had any pieces that didn't have any cracks. Some of them were VERY small. The way you look for them is have good light and "lightly" flex the plastic looking where you suspect a crack lies. Some cracks will only be visible on one side (I had a few that only showed up on the back side, but wasn't through the paint yet). When you find the crack, get the smallest drill bit you can find (must be a little wider than the actual fracture). "Stop drilling the crack prevents the crack from continuing any further. You'll need to drill the crack at the very end tip of the crack. After the stop drill, check your work and flex the plastic again to see if you see any more cracking. If so, stop drill it again (just a hair beyond the crack). After that, use an exacto blade, razor blade or some cutting tool to cut a "V" groove over the plastic. Then fill the hole and the groove in with the glue of your choice. There's a variety of plastic repair glues out there...just be sure it works for ABS plastics. If it's a bad area, with pieces missing, or needing major reinforcement, I've used ABS Pipe glue (kinda like black melted ABS plastic) and fiberglass layers to strengthen or build up an area. Good luck!
  18. warthogcrewchief
    Yep, remove the seat first (gotta take the saddlebag tops off first). Then the false gas tank cover. The screw is under the fuel lid. Then lift up just a bit, then forward to get the tab to clear up front. After those are off, then the side covers are free to remove. Removing the lower "L" panels has two screws (front and back), a screw on the bottom which is hidden by the front scoop (has four screws). If you want to remove the large fairings, you'll need to remove the windshield chrome trim (two screws then pull forward to clear the tabs), the mirrors (screws are under the rubber covers), the windshield itself (four screws), the headlight trim (two screws on bottom) and the small vent scoop (four screws). Slowly work on the radio and cb panels as you remove the screws. When you remove the black vents (that wrap around the steering head), keep in mind there are some screws in between the vent vanes. Good luck, I just got done doing a complete reassemble of my '89 VR. If you have any questions, just ask any of us here. EDIT: The best thing I did while removing everything was to use a labeled ziplock bag for each panel to store that panel's hardware. I also labeled the wires (using masking tape or string and tags...whatever works for you). Labeling the wires and hoses made reassembly SO much easier!
  19. warthogcrewchief
    Nah, it's alright. I appreciate the input. I too think it might be a vacuum leak...just not sure where yet...might take it to the parts store and buy some brake cleaner or carb cleaner (Carb-Out causes RPM to drop and I know it works for carbs).
  20. warthogcrewchief
    This is what I've replaced so far during my rebuild/restoration: - air filter - carb boots/o-rings - carb diaphragms - spark plugs (twice) - spark plug wires/caps -vacuum caps and clamps - replaced breather vent tube with filter element (plugged air box holes with vacuum caps) Things I've done: -tore carbs apart and cleaned -tested coils - synced carbs -sea foamed gas That only leaves a few things left to look at...unless something I already did failed or wasn't done correctly. Exhaust - maybe, but not likely, didn't see/feel any leaks carb internals - didn't mess with the float settings, but it should be okay (not pissing fuel) fuel filter - doesn't seem like fuel starvation, but haven't ruled it out yet possible air leak - seems like the most plausible culprit (and potentially the easiest fix)
  21. warthogcrewchief
    I replaced the spark plug, spark issue solved. I synced the carbs last week, surprisingly close before I started, but now they're even closer. This afternoon, she started to spit a little bit again (not much, but she shouldn't spit at all). On top of that, the idle began to rise to about 2500-3000 RPM. I was able to adjust the idle screw down, but it came right back up a little later. I hooked up the carbtune and it was off just a little. I set them again and went to get more gas. She still spits a little, and the idle issue isn't solved. I can set the idle down, but it sits around 750-900 RPM (too low for a good idle), and is hard to set it to the right RPM with the idle screw. It almost seems as if it's unresponsive. Every now and again, it'll spit and it will kick up the RPM just a bit (about 100 RPM). I noticed this on the carbtune and it seemed to do this on all four carbs. I wondering if it's fuel delivery, exhaust or possibly a leak? I'll have to check for an air leak later using some cleaners.
  22. warthogcrewchief
    Yeah, I saw them at Bikebandit for about $150 each! As much as I'd like to pursue this project, my VR is acting up again today....
  23. warthogcrewchief
    I know its been brought up before, but I couldn't find anything worth pursuing on the search function here. I'm looking to find a suitable (stock) factory replacement for the right knee vent (the one located on the side cover) or two "fabricated" vents. If I can't find a stock one, then I'll try the "custom" method. I had seen someone had once made chrome blanking plates and they seemed to work well. I was wondering if anyone had made the blanking plates and then had a metal shop stamp louvers into the metal? It would look similar to the ones for this aircraft. http://www.vincesrocket.com/silver%20louvers.jpg
  24. warthogcrewchief
    I'm thinking it might be tricky, as it was said, on center stands, and one backed in, the other pushed in...perhaps even seeing if the mirrors will fold in or remove (if it's going to be stored for an extended amount of time).
  25. warthogcrewchief
    Nah, that ain't bad...as long as you stay moving and wear plenty of sun screen. Out here, it's the "dry heat".
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