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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    One thing you can do... with the bike running fine at 2k pull the vacuum line off #2 carb and cap it... then slowly lower the idle until she starts to "studder" and then apply suction to the vacuum line... this should change the TCI timing enough to get over the stumble... if it does, it could be a faulty boost sensor or TCI... the #2 output of the TCI feed #2 coil, the fuel pump "timer" and the tach... if the tach drops to 0, it's a good indication that the TCI #2 output is dead at that moment... could be as simple as replacing the 8 old glass (grey and blue) power diodes (2 for each power transistor) with modern 1N4001 types. That's the main upgrade between 83 and 89 TCI units! 4 shown in this half of the TCI output amp section. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci1.jpg
  2. mbrood
    Water and the TCI... the whole story is condensation (as Skydoc said). Yamaha put two convienient vent holes in the bottom of the TCI to let heat out but after a rain run and the bike is cooling, the TCI is ALSO cooling and pulling in a tiny amount of moist air... moist because it is right above a hot and wet engine... I actually put a thin piece of wet suit material over the holes on the inside... air can still pass but water can't... but it's still best to be moved up on top of the air filter. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tci%20unit.jpg
  3. mbrood
    Long ago and far away... there lived upon the land dinosaurs. Some were big and some were little and as time went on, some smaller ones had even smaller wings, not very supportive of flight, so they became ground walkers. As time continued on, they developed into several distinct sizes and types, eventually looking like the Ostrich, Emu and even chickens. All the while these distinct variants mated, laid eggs and played in the young world. So neither the chicken or the egg came first, they just became. And it's common knowledge that the rooster landed in a space ship at dawn. He found himself in a world of millions of hens... and to this day he celibrates that moment, every day, with his famous cheer!
  4. mbrood
    I would think the side stand switch... it has two sections, one goes to the dash computer and one links into the "engine disable" at the TCI.
  5. mbrood
    The 84 VR I have has class and cruise... CB was a NEW option. I don't think it was even available for the 83. The throttle cable junction box... located JUST inside the left fairing, against the upper frame, basically inboard from the cassette. I got my cables from Zanotti Motor, good price and excellent service. I changed just the two leading to the carb and got there without removing the large fairing. Took out the radio equipment and went in through there. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/throttlecable.jpg
  6. mbrood
    That was a few years ago... prices have gone up a bit... But I've had excellent service from Zanotti Motor. https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
  7. mbrood
    Yep those second and third owners often find little "repairs" that have to now be done "correctly". I got my 86 from long distance, the PO said all maintenance was routinely done and everything worked fine. Rather than say he lied, let's just say his routine maintenance involved viewing from a distance... But... what he DID touch, he either buggered the heads of the bolts or wrapped the spliced wires together and tucked them away... electrical tape, solder and/or shrink tubing must be outside his expertise. The clutch and brake fluids were black, the oil was even black, most of the radio buttons were corroded and the cruise was inop... found it was unplugged... then found it needed soldered inside ("error #4"). It was the buggered clutch slave bolts that caused all of the REAL problems, they are REALLY recessed in tight quarters... Sears damaged bolt extractor made fast work of it once I found them. Took a while before I was comfortable going beyond the block. But I sure got to "explore" lots of areas of that bike I didn't plan on at the time... but it's paid off nicely.
  8. mbrood
    I think Bald Josh pointed in the right direction. My thoughts are that the throttle junction box has 5 cables... two pull-pull from the throttle grip, two pull-pull to the carb bank and one pull to the vacuum pump. At a certain speed the throttle has opened, pulling on the CC diaphragm. This "speed" is detected by the speedo hall effect sensor and goes as a "frequency" to the cruise control unit (line C)... if the bike starts up hill, the speed (frequency) reduces and the cruise control unit tell the vacuum pump to increase the vacuum (to return to the "remembered frequency"), pulling harder on the 5th throttle cable just as if you had twisted the throttle. If that vaccum was leaking, the 5th throttle cable would relax more, slowing the bike down, the vacuum pump may still be "trying" to pull enough vacuum to reset the "set frequency" but with the leak, can't do it, so she continues to slow until you hit the bottom acceptable speed and she trips off cruise. Look for a leak. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cruise1.jpg http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cruise.jpg Testing diagram is shown here... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cruise/
  9. mbrood
    Have you checked basic resistance on the secondary side of the coil... Ohming between the ignition fuse and the inside of each spark plug holder... each should read about 23k... 13k for the coil secondary and 10k for the resistor inside the spark plug holder... my #4 was acting up periodically... it measure 33k... I pulled the high tension wire off the coil and saw a slight bit of green corrosion on the wire end, cliped a small bit off, reasembled and it then read the 23k.
  10. mbrood
    There's no front or back to each gear... here's the assembled gear set and rotor. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/starter-rotor.jpg The stator windings can be measured for proper resistance and carefull inspection for overheated windings.
  11. mbrood
    Elenor would give her such a hit !!!!! Franklin KNEW better than to make any moves !
  12. mbrood
    The main area that gets "weakened" over time is the main (right angle) connectors to the circuit board. The proper technique is to put the soldering iron on the TIP of the pin protruding through the board... let THIS heat up until the solder around it softens and then add a TINY bit of new solder. The main upgrade between 84 and 89 was to upgrade the power diodes from glass (blue and gray and prone to failure) diodes to ceramic covered 1N4001 types. If you happen to be able to remove the board you will find these 8 "power" diodes around the output transistors near the main connection. This shows half of the output transistors and the "culprit" diodes (4 shown). If you find the blue/gray types, replace them. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci1.jpg
  13. mbrood
    In picture number 3... why does the front tire look like it's leaning to the left referenced to the forks? http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/wheel.jpg . . . . . . Yeah, I just couldn't resist. Beautiful bike !
  14. mbrood
    I believe this is the configuration for the individual volume controls... probably a 1k Ohm potentiometer... easy to test. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/headset.jpg
  15. mbrood
    Here's the probe off my bike... note the resistor right next to the lead probe. If you cut off the probe and attach the yellow wire to +12v switched, you are probably going to be fine (although, THAT resistor value was selected for a 6 volt source not 12). Cut off the probe AND resistor and hook the green wire to +12v and the detector IC in the dash makes magic smoke signals. All reports I've read is that the detector IC goes bye-bye but nothing else is affected. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/probe.jpg
  16. mbrood
    Sounds exactly like "tire roar"... disconcerting but perfectly normal with many tires.
  17. mbrood
    There's also an ignition switch in the link, right?
  18. mbrood
    Having a hard time finding neutral usually indicates time to bleed the clutch line. Not able to get into a gear can usually be traced to the little "pins" (#7) in the selector shaft under the clutch plates cover missing or not seated properly... Located just to the rear of the clutch basket... you'll see the star washer (#8) holding the pins. (on the left in the drawing) The clutch cover can be removed while on the side stand, but you will probably need a cover gasket. http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=131563,2,0,sport
  19. mbrood
    Typically if the TCI signal to #2 goes out or gets intermittent, the tach falls to "0" and then may pop back up when the signal is seen... the slow / sloppy response talks about needing the tach gears lubed.
  20. mbrood
    The pickup coils have a connector just behind the driver's left leg near the upper part of the frame vertical support... clean the connectors, male and female, also insure that the female isn't too "open" and sloppy fit. The wires then go into the wiring harness and end up at the TCI... clean the connectors. The output of the TCI goes to the coils so insure that connector's pins are clean as well. Each coil has a two piin connector about 5 inches from each coil... check the pins! I would also back off the high tension wire at the affected coils and check the end of the wire for green corrosion... if found, clip 1/4" off the end and reattach!' Now it's about time to disassemble the plug holder. The high tension wire screws into the plug holder (check end of wire for "green"). inside the plug holder body is a slotted screw, followed by a resistor, a "tiny" flat washer and a spring... clean all parts! After all that, why not throw in 4 new plugs!
  21. mbrood
    I replaced the front fork springs with Progressives and she stood "taller" with the better springs (newer). So tall that it leaned WAY over on the side stand and I had serious problems as I could only tip-toe her in the seat. I pulled ALL of the "Progresive provided spacer" from the top of the spring and she now leans "proper" on the side stand and I can flat foot her if I stand up a bit in the saddle... (29" inseam). You can see the difference in parts when converting over... With the top unit the Progressive (without the provided shim) and the original parts below. And yeah, I NEVER approach the bike without riding boots with a good heel and base! http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg
  22. mbrood
    The spark plugs recesses have a drain hole that is "suppose" to drain the water away behind the tall grooved plates along the cylinder sleeve sides. These are easily cleaned! The TCI has two small "vent holes" and water can easily get sprayed inside where it gets on the ignition circuit. Pull the TCI, put it in an oven for an hour or two at about 150 and put it all back together (you can "test fire" the engine by hanging the TCI to the side with the two large connectors attached !) That's why many of us moved our TCI up above the brather box!
  23. mbrood
    The spring loaded pin that slides around the gear selector contact pads, on the gear selector contact assembly, gets worn and misshapen after so many years !!! Might just be a simple replacement is needed Item 11 http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=131563,2,0,sport
  24. mbrood
    http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg You can back pin D out of the white connector, this removes all of the kill switches to the ignition box and you will probably get your spark. Just remember this bypasses the sidestand and tipover safety switches.
  25. mbrood
    Valve cover gasket $20.69 plus freight... item #32 26H-11193-00-00 https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html don't forget to get 8 each for each cover... 302GH-1111G-00-00 RUBBER, MOUNT 1 Mine looked ok from a mechanics eye but when compared to a new one it was obvious the old ones were crushed and brittle. $2.14 each.
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