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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I put this in the tech writeup: Do you have the carbs off? There's an easy way and a tough way to get the throttle and choke cables off. I finally found the easy way... The carb assembly also needs some "proper" persuasion to get up off their mount boots! Remove the air cleaner... there's a small hose at the front bottom... disconnect it at the air box. There's a large hose at the bottom, rear, center... disconnect it at the ENGINE... this lets you use the hose as a guide when you put it back (plus you can't get to the rear bottom of the air box when it's going back together. Loosen the four rubber boot clamps below the carbs and now it's time to work these up. They don't want to because it's a tight fit but work one side up a bit and then do the other until you have them up. I used two pieces of hardwood to pry the carbs up... one side a bit at a time. Then you pull the carbs a bit out the left side. Run the throttle adjust nut at the handlebar in to get some free cable. Loosen the adjustment coupler right at the carb all the way. Pull THAT cable housing up from the carb cable holder and slide the cable through the slot in the carb mounted holder... there's just enough slack to get it out of the holder! Then you can tip the carbs to see how to disconnect it. Now you can roll the carbs OPEN and get the takeup cable off. The choke is easy, loosen the clamp and slide the cable free. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54
  2. mbrood
    I don't really think these are cold solder joints, those look like fatigue fractures where years and years of vibration weaken the solder and corrosion creaps in. A cold solder joint is where one piece is heated sufficiently and the other (pad or pin) isn't, the solder flows around but there's no real electrical connection. Cold solder joints are EXTREMELY hard to visually detect. Still the rule of thumb is to heat the harder, more substantial material and let THAT item transfer the heat... so only touch the iron to the pin tip, then let THAT heat and transfer the heat to the solder and the pad, THEN adding just a "bit" of new solder to let the flux in the solder help clean the joint.
  3. mbrood
    I asked, he answered: HAD TWO BIKES- THIS BLUE 1300 CC IS ACTUALLY A 1990 HAVE LOWERED THE PRICE TO $5,100 HAVE 5 PEOPLE LOOKING AT IT! CALL JEFF 801-834-9141 FIRST $5,100 TAKES IT HOME! EXCELLENT CONDITON! Jeff Neuman powder4feet@yahoo.com
  4. mbrood
    I changed them to 1156 (just used the bulb holder used in the front turn signals) and wired the low power element to the running lights... may not be legal in some states... but more lights means a higher chance of being seen.
  5. mbrood
    AS I understand it, the MKI (mark 1 or "early variant) is the 1200 (83-85) with the 83 being a bit apart (no gear selection indicator, no fuel petcock, different pressure sensor). They all had removeable saddle bags. The 85 introduced a much bigger, removeable top trunk. The 83 and 84s often had a problem with lower rear frame cracks and the 83, 84 and early 85s also had a problem of a soft transmission thrust washer that would (at around 50,000 miles) lead to the tranny popping out of 2nd gear. The MKII (86-93) saw a fixed frame and thrust washer and introduced the 1300 engine and larger, fixed saddle bags. The carb intake also increased by 1 mm. I would almost call the 84 and 85 units MKIa with enough minor differences in the 83 to make it a stand alone year.
  6. mbrood
    We have quite a few cameras here in southern CA and you would think that would damp the amount of "runners"... it sure doesn't seem so. I slow at green lights and if I'm approaching and the light "just" turned green, I slow even more. It might piss those off behind me but I've seen way too many of these. Never seen texting or... just stupid people locked into their "little world"... and WAY too many young women in SUVs... but that's just my observation. (Yep, I've slowed and looked... and watched quite a few just blow through like there wasn't even an intersection... those are easier to see, going far too fast to even think about touching the brake.) When I've "teased" a yellow light and had it change as I was part way through... I can still feel my mom smacking me on the back of the head... so I try not to do that much. Maybe that's part of what's missing?
  7. mbrood
    Congratulations on the positive and continuing recovery. Let her know there are prayers out here and wishes that she keep up tackling the problems.
  8. mbrood
    The "Venture" reflector below the license is a red piece glued to a black piece... You can use a razor blade and a straight edge on the top and bottom and separate them, toss in what bulbs you want and then use either hot glue (hi temp) or RTV to reseal the unit... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/rearlight.jpg
  9. mbrood
    It's also possible, if you have properly resolded the pin on the main board, that the female pins on the white connector have spread. look into the white housing and see if one or more of the female pins look "spread"... you can use a metal pick (or??) to gently close up a "loose one".
  10. mbrood
    While you are waiting, it would be a dandy time to do a compression check and write those numbers down... that would detail any valve or ring problems.
  11. mbrood
    Another solution to making gaskets... if you have a spare... lay it on a white piece of paper and draw the inside and outside pattern (and any holes in the gasket). Then take it to a laser xerox machine and run off as many examples as you need. Now the laser uses a plastic that is fused to the paper so it works backwards... lay the paper (black outline to the new gasket material) and run your wife's iron over the top. The platic will transfer to the gasket material and you can just cut it out... Of course this also works for transferring patterns to material to be custom sewn (jackets, shirts, etc.). The plastic washes out later.
  12. mbrood
    The fuel level sender should show 30 ohms or less when a full tank and 300 ohms or greater when empty... have you checked the resistance (just pull the seat)?
  13. mbrood
    an absolute must for the bike toolkit... small, tough and handy!
  14. mbrood
    These old fashion radiators are good solid metal and any radiator repair shop could fix you up in a few hours.
  15. mbrood
    I concur... superbrightleds is a great bunch to deal with... if your order is under $25, you have to order on-line... over and you can just call 'em. Either way, their products are exactly as advertised and great. I have a few that I replaced also... made a real change in my voltage drop as well! (and 14 others on the side and up front!) http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/rearlight.jpg
  16. mbrood
    Since I live in a heavy traffic area (north San Diego), I can tell you that in a "sea of red" (traffic tail lights) yellow stands out when it appears. I even changed the rear turn signals to a two filament bulb on my 86 and run "running light" power back there as well as the standard turn signal. I figure if it causes them to "look"... I win. Ever notice that the front yellow turn signals use the same dual filament setup? Some states don't allow a constant yellow in the rear... check your state or take your chances!
  17. mbrood
    That little copper "plate" is EASY to loose so no dobt somebody in the past has been in there. If the spring ends and the rest are clean and you get the right measurement on the resistor... toss it back together and keep checking, but... with it apart, you can Ohm from the inside "cup" on the plug holder to the ignition fuse, looking for that 13K for the coil. Since the plug wire is solid core copper, it "should" be negligable to any resistance readings. (But that green corrosion can add up many K Ohms easily) Mine was running rough and #3 read 45K... just some green crud on the end of the spark wire going into the coil... 1/4" clipped off the end and it was back to smooth running.
  18. mbrood
    It's probably best to remember that Yamaha dropped that concept in 1986 without any mods to the bikes. Leaks can occur from cracks to the outside and also from chamber to chamber and then they can fail due to heat when the bike is running or open with vibration so an in depth test would be rather tough... I would opt to cap the ports on the engine... makes syncing the carbs a whole lot easier too. A good leak test would need a controlled vacuum, a good gauge and time to see what's the "holding power" of each chamber.
  19. mbrood
    Went from a few dirt bikes to a Norton 750... what a leap in power and dangers...
  20. mbrood
    If it's a stock cap... just unscrew and clean the "guts". Inside the plug end is a flat blade screw to remove... followed by a cylindrical 10K resistor, a very thin and small copper "contact plate" and then a spring... clean the contact points on all items including the bottom of the "cup" everything goes into, remeasure the resistor and if everything looks clean now, add a bit of dialectric grease and toss it all back together. Also check the screw end that the high tension wire screws onto for that green corrsion... clean as required.
  21. mbrood
    You can get to the coil of the right rear with the battery out... pull the high tension lead and trim 1/4" and shove it all back... do the same at the plug holder... odds are she will fire again. Ohming from the ignition fuse to the inside of the plug holder should show about 23K... 10k for the resistor in the plug holder and 13k for the coil... much more and it's most likely a bit of corrosion on one end of the spark plug wire.
  22. mbrood
    This is what I emailed to him... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cb%20rig.jpg
  23. mbrood
    If the "crush washer" you reference is that copper washer... copper gets hard over time from "working"... you can hold it over a good flame (gas kitchen stove is excellent) until it glows dull (not quite cherry) red and then let it air cool... this anneals it and makes it soft and ready for another go. This can be repeated and repeated.
  24. mbrood
    Neither have I Mike. But would like to see one and the stator and magnet arrangement.
  25. mbrood
    I would like to remind folks that the 83-89 has 4 pickups, two pickup carriers with 2 pickups on each. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/alternator-a.jpg
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