mbrood

I scratched my head for more than a few minutes... then had a thought Take the two bolts out that hold the fuel pump... tilt it out of the way and you have easy access to the filter. It's sometimes all in how you hold your tongue...

http://bergall.org/temp/venture/din.jpg Pin 7 and 1 on the cable from the cassette to the amp are open when the cassette is turned ON... so it needs shorted to bypass the cassette and let the radio play. Your problem may be here? http://bergall.org/temp/venture/vr1.jpg Those controls look pretty sealed but ALWAYS check for corrosion and you can ALWAYS give it a try. http://bergall.org/temp/venture/audio-mpg.jpg A couple guys said it's best to use the "ring" around the plug as the audio common... but it's no big deal to pump MP3 through the system using the cassette cable input.

NOW is a GREAT time to check for that "freeplay"... if you blow UP the hose going to the master, you SHOULD be able to blow up the line, into the master cylinder and THROUGH that tiny hole... if you can't... pull the lever... this lets the piston FULLY retract. Now if you can blow through... you've solved ANOTHER problem all at once... you need that piston free enough to open the relief hole WITH the lever mounted. I only had to file a bit off the flat end of the push rod that the lever pushes against the piston.

If you are wondering where that fluid went... you probably are in need of a seal kit for the slave. It's not a hard overhaul... just a minor pita.

I chased something similar for a while... solid clutch when cold... a couple miles down the road and fourth and fifth would break loose under heavy load (grabbin' throttle!). I went through darned near everything and by then everything was CLEAN. Then I noticed that the clutch lever had no real "free play" when it was hot... I could bleed the clutch and have just that little (1/8th") lever free play but after a couple miles nada. I pulled the hose off the slave and tried to feed fluid UP the line... no go. On MY bike, when the lever was relaxed to it's stops, the piston was STILL not coming back enough to OPEN that little relief hole in the reservoir! I filed off a TAD of the short piston push rod that the lever pushes... assembled the lever and blew into the master outlet (Well, yes, it WAS on the bench and without fluid...) I had to file just a tad more and then when the lever was remounted and relaxed... voila! Did a reassembly and couldn't get rid of the air for nothin'. Finally broke the master reservoir bajo bolt and bled THAT spot and THEN a regular bleed went fine... and after a few miles... still a nice firm clutch grab and STILL had that nice 1/8th" free play at the lever. Your mileage may vary but that's what it was on MY bike.

The bottom bolt has a copper gasket... because THAT bolt hole actually goes into the case interior cavity. The normal routine is to pull the bolts, pull the cover and then put a bolt BACK in the bottom spot to stop the oil leak. No great shakes, you've done everything perfect... except for that half a cup of oil on the garage floor... but you are in company. When all is said and done, feel free to put 1/2 cup of oil back in the case. Be CAREFULL with those two allen head screws securing the slave... they are WAY recessed and if you don't use a good condition, deep allen, you can bugger them up and then it's REALLY a hassle. I broke the sidestand switch mount plate free to give me room to get the slave out... it's still a chinese finger puzzle of turn, pull, lower, twist to get out but it WILL walk right out.

Like Gearhead says... these parts are all ABS... marvelous stuff actually and there's plenty of ways to repair/reinforce it. PVC is quite a different animal all together. The grommet is available from Yama$a but you can take one to your local car parts shop and probably come up with one for pennies. That "ear" that the bungie hooks on CAN be beefed up. ABS will soften with carefull amounts of heat on the inside, SLOWLY heating it up, pushed into shape and let it cool slowly. I would STILL reinforce it... I'd use some thin layers of glass and epoxy on the inside.

Originally Posted by flb_78 get one of those "green light triggers" and put it right in front of your tire and it'll pull all the nails up off the ground and they will stick to the magnet... So I put this big magnet in front of the wheel... expecting to pick up every nail and screw in my way... Things seemed fine until I pulled up on a car at a stop light. Now can someone help me get the magnet unstuck from the car? I'd really like to drive to MY home...

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tabanks412/DSC01365.jpg http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tabanks412/DSC01368.jpg Found this on another site... I'm not sure you can fix or tighten up a loose mirror ball joint. I know this because not 48 hours after getting my brand new '89 VR, mine fell over in my garage, and I got an up close and personal view of the inner-workings of my now smashed right side mirror. Needless to say, I was then in the market for a NEW right mirror. However, if you take the whole assembly off, on the underside of the mounting bracket you can see the bottom end of the screw that you'd need to tighten to make the mirror hold a position. See, inside the mirror there's a spring wrapped around this screw that is supposed to hold tension which allows you to position the mirror and have it stay there. Make sense? Maybe you can grab the bottom of that screw with a pair of channel locks or a small vise-grip and tighten the screw. It's worth a shot, because the mirrors are not cheap! I guess another option may be hacksawing or dremel a slot on the end of the bolt shank so a flat blade screwdriver would work and save the threads.

There are several cases to be made for PROPERLY filling your tires with nitrogen, heat build up is reduced SLIGHTLY, less leakage, nitrogen molecules are larger so less overall leakage... But the trend was set at the racetrack for SAFETY. With high engine temps and exotic fuels around, you certainly don't want high pressure air involved... and even a blown tire (filled with regular air) could start or feed a fire. The REAL advantage is in the race pit equipment and their tires.

All I get when I do a check for 1st gen... is "page not found"... for the entire kit OR just the front fork )no emulator)????? You can also cut down the existing preload spacer by 1/2" and get swift results.

It's still cheap to use a jumper cable and jump the battery positive directly to the starter side of the solenoid... although this bypasses the existing hot cable to the input side of the solenoid... it bypasses the solenoid! The FRONT large terminal on the solenoid (stock bike) goes to the starter. (This also bypasses all safety switches and it's GOING to turn over so make sure it's in neutral!!!) My 86 always started fine cold and hesitant (reluctant) when hot. Then the solenoid died one day. With the new one I noticed one thing right off... even cold she spun MUCH faster... and I have YET to have a "hot" problem. It may not be the cure for all but many of you may have a worn solenoid that's being resistive and hogging a lot of available power. It's worth a check.

You can double the number of wedge bulb holders like I did, and then change over to multiple LEDs from superbrightleds.com (use the cone type for illumination out the side...) Or you can clip the existing ones out and mount some LED strings inside. It's yours, get inventive and have fun... Just remember that these are a real bear to get into (hot glue) so double check your wiring and make sure everything is locked down and solid.

I "got the opportunity" so decided I would share... Do you have the carbs off? There's an easy way and a tough way to get the throttle and choke cables off. I finally found the easy way... The carb assembly also needs some "proper" persuasion to get up off their mount boots! Remove the air cleaner... there's a small hose at the front bottom... disconnect it at the air box. There's a large hose at the bottom, rear, center... disconnect it at the ENGINE... this lets you use the hose as a guide when you put it back (plus you can't get to the rear bottom of the air box when it's going back together. Loosen the four rubber boot clamps below the carbs and now it's time to work these up. They don't want to because it's a tight fit but work one side up a bit and then do the other until you have them up. I used two pieces of hardwood to pry the carbs up... one side a bit at a time. Then you pull the carbs a bit out the left side. Run the throttle adjust nut at the handlebar in to get some free cable. Loosen the adjustment coupler right at the carb all the way. Pull THAT cable housing up from the carb cable holder and slide the cable through the slot in the carb mounted holder... there's just enough slack to get it out of the holder! Then you can tip the carbs to see how to disconnect it. Now you can roll the carbs OPEN and get the takeup cable off. The choke is easy, loosen the clamp and slide the cable free. I had three mixture adjust screws set at about 2.5 turns out from bottom and a forth was frozen. I sprayed penetrant spray and over a day worked it in and out a bit at a time... I think the magic setting is 2 to 2.5 turns out from a CAREFULLY bottomed position. More on this later. Before you break the 4 carb assembly apart, make a little drawing of the choke linkage layout and note the spacers and washers on the choke coupling arms. The throttle couplers are straight forward, front and back halves are coupled by a plate and spring on the "balance adjusters", left and right halves are held by a clip-ringed coupling plate. The 4 carb assembly is held together by 16 large (5mm, I think) phillips head screws. These are going to be impossible to almost welded and will round off and make you invent dirty words unless you have the magic thing... the absolute right tool!!! Don't waste time, get one! I used a VERY large phillips bit (from an impact wrench set) that fits "PERFECT" and mounts into a regular socket... mounted on a regular ratchet. This gives you the leverage of the ratchet but you HAVE to have a large bit that fits TIGHT... Take the assembly to the parts shop if in doubt... you'll love me if you do... you'll have lots of new words if you don't. I threw these screws away when I got them out and replaced them with allen bolts from True Value ($4.00, but you'll never mess them up again!!!) Don't even think of using an impact to get these out... you'll break the fragile carb body and be back to inventing dirty words. It's real handy to have a friend hold the carbs on the bench while you break the bolts free. (Did I mention they were tight???) Any good carb cleaner should work fine. It's a question of aggressiveness and preference. Seafoam is good stuff, not terribly aggressive but safe and does a good job with time... you would probably want to soak overnight and follow with a really good scrubbing of parts. B-12 is MUCH more aggressive and (as such) needs more care and attention. I don't think Seafoam eats rubber... I KNOW B-12 WILL. I chose Berrymans so I wasn't waiting so long. It's a toss up to what you like. I didn't want to by 5 gallons of something to allow dipping all 4 carbs and I don't like to have too many "parts" floating around so I planned on doing each carb, one at a time. I used a cut down, lower 2/3s of an anti-freeze bottle as a "dip tank"... it JUST fits one carb body and two pints of cleaner just about cover the carb. You might want to buy three pints so that when you pull one carb, you can drain back most of the cleaner and trash the last bit that has all the dirty junk. I threw in the 5 jets for THAT carb at the same time... if in doubt, make a little diagram of each jet's size and it's location. I cleaned one carb at a time so nothing got mixed up and I could inspect each one on their own. Plus my work area is rather small. Now we have a new, big screw driver bit and four carbs laying on the bench... that bit is going to come in handy for breaking apart the covers! If you still have one "pinned, internal star" screw in each diaphragm cover... buy that tool at the parts store (common tool) and those screws throw them away... it's not worth the hassle... replace all 16 (four per carb) with allen bolts or buy four replacement screws. I used small vice grip pliers rather than buy the tool! It really buggers up the head but... who cares? I WAS a bit worried about buggering one up and still not able to get it out... I later found the right tool was cheap and readily available... I was first "told" it was a "special dealer tool"... grrrrr! Each choke slide can be "overhauled" in-place. Now is a good time as the carb body gives you leverage to get the big nut off. The slide cover nut just unscrews and out comes a spring and brass plunger, check the large brass plunger and spring, grease and reassemble. Then pull the screws holding the choke body to the carb and set aside. The deceleration pump (other side of the carb body) has a spring and diaphragm like a small version of the main diaphragms. These need to be pulled and inspected. The diaphragm can have small tears around the outside rim or maybe a pinhole that would need repaired. They don't "bounce" like the intake slides, they are vacuum driven to smooth sudden deceleration so they are basically set to "trip" open on activation. Clean and set these aside. On top, just inside the intake barrel, is a fixed, small orifice brass jet that comes out to be dipped and scrubbed carefully. I found a small, pointed art brush was perfect. Inside the carb diaphragm cover is a large spring and diaphragm assembly, pull and set aside. Inside that carb cavity is a large orifice brass jet that comes out to be dipped and scrubbed... There's also a small O-ring at the bottom edge that the diaphragm cover seals ... pull and set aside. Inside the float chamber area, pull the float and float valve. Unscrew the large brass screw (and washer) running through the main jet body... this holds the diaphragm needle housing. Pull the main jet body and pull it's three jets... the long, metering jet inside the middle tube (a large pierced tube looking thing), main jet on side and a small orifice jet in the left tube... this one needs care in cleaning. Be careful with the rubber plugs... they bounce real well if dropped and important that they fit tight when you reassemble!!! The diaphragm needle housing (large brass shaft) can now slide out through the center of the carb body... note that there's an O-ring under the main jet body block that slides over this shaft. Set everything aside with the jets and needle housing to end up in the soaker with the carb body. Ease the rubber drain hoses off the plastic barb very carefully and set aside. The carbs come with a brass sleeve in the carb body that keeps the idle mixture screws "captive" Carefully use a progressively larger drill and drill these out. Use air or ANYTHING to get all those brass filings out. NOW pull the idle mixture jets, spring, washer and O-ring. Use a small wire with a hook on the tip to pull the washer and o-ring if needed. Now go back and get the REST of the metal filings you missed! The carb bodies and jets are now ready to dip. B-12 liquid and spray are good cleaners for disassembly... do NOT use them on assemblies or on a running bike. It's too aggressive and can mess up rubber parts. For regular cleaning I use PJ carb cleaner... it's safer and also it's flammable so it actually HELPS a running engine (it surges like you sprayed ether!) where B-12 isn't and will want to kill the engine! Did I mention it kills rubber parts? "The factory-set needle-valve screw..."??? These are very fragile, tapered metering jets. I spray B-12 on a clean rag and buff these tapers and the main jets. They should be smooth and clean. Any nicks or scrapes and they are trash. The idle mixture screws on ANY carb are set by, very carefully, running them IN so they gently seat and then count the turns OUT from there. I think factory is right around 2 turns out. If you get heavy handed and screw them in hard, you damage the needle seat and get to replace that carb!!! It's a spring loaded screw... use a tight fitting flat blade screwdriver and ease then in. If in doubt... run them in and out a bit to clean the threads and get a better 'FEEL" for them bottoming. For repairing the pinholes in the main diaphragms, I was told to buy some Yamabond 4 It's put on very thin with a toothpick on the "worn spots".... I've only recently put the carbs back on and have run a few tanks through but when I repulled the diaphragms the stuff was exactly like when I put them in. This yamabond stuff is fairly thin and is perfect for this apparently and is also a great gasket seal but just use a tiny bit... Even better is to buy new ones! Oh yeah... don't mess with "close" O-rings... if they don't measure perfect or just a hair big... walk away! There's lots of sources... Napa didn't carry small ones but Kragen did. Napa usually has those odd parts that you need.