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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    That picture is from a 1986 Venture for sale and that year's colors were the wonderful Black Cherry and the above.
  2. mbrood
    The 1986 came in a dark black cherry and ALSO in "Copper Brown and Birch Brown" as shown here. http://pinwallcycle.com/ebay/bike555/078.jpg It doesn't look (to me) like yours is either of the latter colors.
  3. mbrood
    no brakes and SUPER thin tires... The rubber back then was NOT very good... So if the guy ahead of you blew a tire and laid it down... you could just try and pick a spot for your first bounce... This was OUTSIDE, so you KNOW the boards were warping and weathering. These guys USED their leathers! And did anybody notice the trendy helmets? These were men of steel.
  4. mbrood
    Taking a quick look, zanotti motors is lowest, don't know about their service. But I'd ALSO like to find a cheaper source. Carb Slides http://flatoutmotorcycles.com DIAPHRAGM ASSY (1FK-14940-09-00) (replaces 1FK-14940-00-00) $63.02 https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php 60.67 Enrichment Valve http://flatoutmotorcycles.com DIAPHRAM SET 5 3LD-1490H-00-00 22.89 https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php 22.03
  5. mbrood
    I was wondering... why the PC680MJ (metal jacket, outer case) for the first gen? I used the plain 680 and just had to shim the case to snug it up in the holder... slightly cheaper too. My neighbor is interested in one.
  6. mbrood
    My cousin paints cars... he ALWAYS says... "If it's new, bring me the paint code. Otherwise, leave me alone with the car for a minute and I'll match it fine. After 10 years or so of sun and washes takes a toll even on a garaged car. That paint code is only good if I'm shooting the entire car to original color. I'm a pro, let me do my job."
  7. mbrood
    When my wife and I were first married... her folks gave me a small pair of vise grips and they gave her a pair of "genuine lucite" earrings... gee, genuine plastic! As apposed to??? Her dad was a finance manager for a major aerospace and his wife worked at Neiman Marcus... They must have been so proud... we laughed (later) and just chucked 'em.
  8. mbrood
    http://www.electrospec.com/electronic/popular-parts/23947-HA1825P--HIT-HA-1825-P-HA-1825-P.html It's worth a call? 1-800-631-9616
  9. mbrood
    You can also use Yamabond #4 on both sides of the gasket. It make a pliable, gas resistant seal. I also used a THIN coat on a couple carb diaphragms... worked great so far. Mike
  10. mbrood
    My brother uses this one for troubleshooting... $40.00 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=524744&langId=-1&search=160590 http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/160590_lg.gif Works on all 2 cycle and 4 cycle engines! Service Check Function Internal battery lasts up to 5 years Note: This item does not work with diesel engines Solid State, Quartz-Control Contains: LCD Hourmeter, Tachometer and Maintenance Meter Dimensions: 2.9in.W x 1.82in.H x .775in.D Capacity: 9999 Hours RPM: 1X Spark/Rev 13000 Max 2X Spark/Rev 24000 Max Battery Life: 35000 Hours Operating Temp: 14F to 140F Accuracy: +/-0.01% Two Hole Base Mount on 2.50in. Base Centers 5 1/2 ft. Shielded Cable
  11. mbrood
    I assume you mean it's stuck open and you are getting gas out the overflow hose... Normally this is a small piece of "junk" caught between the float needle and seat. First, use the fuel bowl drain screw and drain that carb. Now when you turn the key on, fresh fuel will often wash the grit inside. If not, try rapping on the body of the carb with the heel of a large screwdriver after you've again drained the bowl and as it is filling. Tear down is rarely needed if it's stuck open due to grit. Some older carbs get a leak in the float, it drops down and the bowl won't stop filling. Although rare, this can happen and DOES need the carbs pulled... but probably out of 100... 99 just need a few raps and a a few bowl drains to clear. My 86 went through this more than a couple times at first.
  12. mbrood
    Probably one more that doesn't know how to run a business, just follow the absolute line of the "franchise". You weren't asking him to warranty the tire but it could be that HIS insurance doesn't cover HIS workers if using "customer supplied" parts... but anyone with BUSINESS sense and any sense of customer appreciation would explain that and tell you of a shop they trust to do the job and make a "courtesy" call to set you up. If, as you imply, he left you high and dry, you might consider that this will be his attitude down the line. A smiling face and extended hand doesn't make a dealer a quality provider. Call around, I'll bet you find three "regular" motorcycle shops nearby that would be HAPPY to have your business and treat you with delight to be of service. Many of the "franchise" shops only want to sell new bikes, see warranty work as a pain they HAVE to endure and refuse anything outside warranty. Treat them as the "salesmen" they "want to be" and take any other business to a shop that you respect and have confidence and comfort with. That will be the one to treat you like a true long term customer. My attitude would be to drop the dealer and any recommendations. Low price is nice but it wears thin after the check is cashed. There are other dealers out there with business sense and maybe they can't offer the rock bottom sale price but they stand behind their COMPANY and CUSTOMER. Bottom line, always remember that it's YOUR wallet. Turn around and walk out.
  13. mbrood

    LED's

    mbrood replied to Bubbajbi's topic in Watering Hole

    Don't forget to check pricing with superbrightleds.com. They are pretty reasonable for the wedge types... even in the multiple configuration... just remember to spec side illuminating or straight... most of my "accessory lights" need th elight out the side (cone) and you WILL get more LIGHT by using a red LED behind a red lens. I used these and swapped out the left side and compared... the LED side was JUST as bright using single LEDs and was a better "red". And SWITCH out ANY incandescents for those 1st gen front disc rotor covers... the regular bulbs will MELT the orange lens!
  14. mbrood
    My first road bike was a British Norton... work on it Friday so you could ride Saturday and Sunday... Adjust the chain, adjust the tappets, tighten the exhaust nuts, sync the carbs, set the timing points... And if you didn't get it all just right, that's ok... you can do it on the road side later. My next bike was a "newer" Norton... but by then I had a nice and specific set of tools, making all of those adjustments so much easier... Friday night almost became ritual. Then I got a Kawasaki H1... just 500 cc but it was a rocket... except for broken chains, the occassional seized piston or cracked crankshaft and the inevitable blown clutches... you really build a tool box with them too... and REALLY get to know how to do a full tear down in short order and end up with a lot of "gift" ashtrays made from piston tops. Then I got a Yamaha XS-750... shaft drive, mainenance free except to check the oil levels and add gas. I even caught myself getting out my tools so I could go over things for a weekend outing... I DID use the plastic dip stick to check fluid level on the drive pumpkin... that was the only "tool" I used... I was truly amazed. That smooth thing just went right along with hardly a wrench applied. When the opportunity came by, I grabbed at an 86 VR. It looked in great shape and sounded strong, so I got it. The earlier owner had been carefull about adding gas and adding oil. He didn't bother to "change" any but he seems to have kept it at the right level anyway. The oil was black, the brake and clutch fluids were black. And a few ""obvious" bolts or nuts were rounded or buggered up... So what he "couldn't" get to I had to. I guess he had a problem making his "Amearican Standard" tools work well on this bike. After fixing all of the "basic" stuff, then using this site and another to fix a few other nuisance problems... it really looks like I'm back in possession of a bike I can go out and put the key in when "I" want to ride... not when the "bike" lets me. It may not be the cleanest, fastest or newest but it sure seems like a dream ride to me... and I don't have to park on the side of the road and walk back to find parts or carry a bag of "incidental" nuts and bolts for replacements!
  15. mbrood

    mbrood

    mbrood replied to wild hair 39's topic in Watering Hole

    No... I didn't. Could you try again, please? mbrood@bergall.org
  16. mbrood
    Why do we have to keep forgetting history and it's valuable lessons... Those OLD flat track riders saved weight and got better gas milage by eliminating BOTH brakes. And if pedestrians know you have this "option", they will be much better about not stepping out in front of you. It WOULD make intersections and downhill runs more interesting.
  17. mbrood
    Guys, I'm sorry that my link wasn't a "free" link... the remaining test was ... The push-pull cable from the grip runs down to the throttle cable housing mounted on the left frame rail under the left upper fairing shell to a "transfer box" AND there is also attached the actuator cable for the cruise control coming out the bottom. . Coming out the rear of that box is the second pair of push-pull cables to the carb. So: Now you have to pull the left side fairing off to get to this "junction box". You might as well replace the entire set of 4 throttle cables? Order All 4 of the Cables. a quick check... 41V-26311-00-00 Cable #1---- $9.58 41V-26312-00-00 Cable #2----$10.44 41V-26313-01-00 Cable #3---- $11.72 41V-2631J-00-00 Cable #4---- $9.58 Page 3-83 of the service manual describes cable replacement in the throttle cable housing... installing each cable in the hole that's marked on the cable "spool" inside. There's a torsion spring in there and that also needs attention on disassembly/assembly. http://bergall.org/temp/venture/throttlecable.jpg
  18. mbrood
    For those that want to see whales... BE SURE and hit that migration season... Had a friend that went on the recent Holland America cruise and really wanted to see some whales... So we told him to go to Sea World here in San Diego. It's my understanding that OUT of tourist season is cheaper for the cruise but some of the activities on land are REAL seasonal and shut down once the tourists go home.
  19. mbrood
    Check out my older post here... about half way down the page... http://www.venturers.org/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=12374&highlight=throttle+cables http://www.venturers.org/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=12374&highlight=throttle+cables There are four cables... two to the junction box and two out to the carb... oops... 5... there's also the cruise control cable... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/throttlecable.jpg
  20. mbrood
    Condor, That breather hose IS nasty. The 84 I worked on had a simple formed hose... unhooked it from the engine and left it on the air breather case... it came right out and went right back in, still attached to the breather box... Sooo easy. The smaller, front breather hose runs forward and down the frame, in front of and to the left of the engine, simple disconnect at the breather box. My 86 has a "T" connection at the engine... vertically feeding a "shorter" large hose up to the the rear of the breather box and a horizontal section of the "T" feeding a hose over and up to the front connection on the breather box. This makes getting to the lower end of the "main" (rear) breather hose a real BEAR! I have no idea if THIS "T" is stock but it sure makes things tough!
  21. mbrood
    I pulled mine out with the main fairings in place. As was said, you have to first ease the cable adjuster right there at the frame on the left side. Then I pulled UP on the top throttle cable to get that cable HOUSING out of the slotted holder on the carb rack and disconnect that cable from the crab rack. Then tilt the rack up on the right side and EASE the rack to the left... this is the way to clear the lower coolant hose. I got it part way out and then was able to get the lower throttle cable off and the choke cable. Then wiggle it and hold your tongue just right and it slips right out.
  22. mbrood
    There's several... all depends on where you see it leaking... http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partimage.gifx?d=39108,2,0
  23. mbrood
    Taking stuff apart isn't all that tough (once you get the carbs off and separated). You WILL want to make some SPECIAL notes about WHICH brass jet came out of WHICH little hole. I think there's markings (flow rating) on them but it would be CHEAP to mark each one as it comes out if they aren't... and yes, a couple tiny and large metered jets ARE the same thread and mount size. The main idea is to get anything with rubber OUT before a good bath... idle mixture o-ring, rubber plugs on the main jet housing, choke valve and primary and enrichment diaphragms. Then the carb housing and the jets would just LOVE a good ultrasonic bath... that is truly better than just basking in a tub of cleaner!
  24. mbrood
    Now THAT'S what I like to see, a few guys checking around and we end up with replacement parts for our old beasts. Thanks guys! I'm certainly noting the cross reference. I wonder if there's a repair center for the Yamaha Vision TCI that would work on OUR TCI units!
  25. mbrood
    And they come in plastic "chrome"... just not at THIS price normally! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-90-1987-YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-FENDER-TRIM-BEZEL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10066QQihZ016QQitemZ260161040792QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://i11.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/b6/e0/6a53_1.JPG
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