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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Gerald, Glad you were able to find an easy fix... may have to look at this myself... mine has a SLOW leak but it wold still be nice to resolve.
  2. mbrood
    Behind the right turn signal, 9 pin, white connector = hazard switch connection http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/hazard.jpg
  3. mbrood
    Squeeze, Does YOUR bike have a shorting block or some "dummy" connector on this 9-pin mate? Maybe Woz can go that route to at least test the stuff and see pretty lights blink in the dark? And... any idea WHAT that "diode block" connects to? Mike
  4. mbrood
    That's a 9 pin, square, white connector with the absolute center pin not used. I pulled the right turn signal and there sits the connector. It heads (as expressed above) to the instrament cluster (or headlight area?). Woz is rebuilding from the previous owners attempt to strip the bike down for some reason and finds no hazard switch, right grill it mounts on and his CLASS controller... living in England seems to find him at a loss for parts... anybody here got some parts or a ready source other than EBAY or Momma Yamaha?
  5. mbrood
    Yes, the "air pocket" is MUCH better than the stock that I took off. It is QUITE nice, I thought I would "try it" and could go back to stock if needed. I never thought about going back. It also throws the air higher so the passenger really gets relief as well. That's really only why I would consider another. The lower section actually obstructs the absolute inside edge of the mirrors... it's THAT wide.
  6. mbrood
    Mine had that white mesh... all torn and ragged... so I pulled it apart and replaced the white mesh with a THIN piece off a wet suit... I shaved most of the foam rubber from the inside and so far it's worked just great, water seems to stay out and the volume adjusts just fine. Although we don't get THAT much rain here. Here's what you see inside... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/vr0.jpg http://bergall.org/temp/venture/vr1.jpg http://bergall.org/temp/venture/vr2.jpg
  7. mbrood
    I've had this shield on my bike for about a year and a half... it has VERY few miles on it, mostly just lightly covered in the garage but after I uncovered it this spring, I see stress cracks all across the viewing area. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/pp-windshield.jpg Anybody else have this problem? This is a Lexan piece that ships FLAT and you BEND it into shape... it's much wider and taller I REALLY like it... but oh, those lines...!!! The manufacturer thinks it may just a bad "batch" that the piece was made from...
  8. mbrood
    Condor, thanks for your affirmation. I put the progressives in, the shoulder washer, a 1/2" piece of PVC then I had the interrnal aluminum cup (with O-ring) to add and the final nut... I stood up on the bike and leaned in with all of my 120 pounds and I could hear the spring snickering at me ("It ain't gonna happen..."). With the setup shown in the photo... I had about 3/4" preload and I was JUST able to lean on the wrench and get a bite on the threads and ran the nut home. Although when I climb aboard I still think my bike doesn't know. I just wish, with the change to the Progressive, that she didn't stand so much taller and LEAN so HARD on the side stand... makes it a bit tough to stand up even from a level floor for me... and I REALLY don't like her leaning so hard on the side stand so I use a cheater piece of hard rubber (old heel off a boot) under the side stand.
  9. mbrood
    I drained my oil on the center stand while still warm (pulled the lower plug), then I put her on her side stand and pulled the lower screw on the middle gear cover. Put her up on her center stand and pulled the middle gear cover and then the left engine cover (getting the starter clutch rebuilt.) and about another 1/2 cup or more of oil came out when I pulled the side cover. The engine has SOME holes between the alternator housing and the engine but they aren't REAL low so the left side definitely traps some...
  10. mbrood
    Weren't they run off a magneto back then?
  11. mbrood
    If it's a Thunderbird, it's rather rare, the first year for that in a 650... and the same bike Brando rode in "the Wild one"... Fairly collectable. http://www.mysanantonio.com/salife/stories/D_IMAGE.1114087faaf.93.88.fa.d0.2c2bef00.jpg http://www.clutchandchrome.com/images/Articles/Antique/002.jpg I believe the Tiger model was also a big seller that year...
  12. mbrood
    Good point, Dale, those fuse panels are a real failure waiting to happen. Odd that they put a small "blade fuse" box up in front of the battery for a couple accessory things and left that old style, fuse clip junk on top with all the "important" needs.
  13. mbrood
    Thanks for the data, Condor. I was really referencing the video REALLY pushing that they used VERY high compression... on a gas engine... I'm always wary of these "new" innovations that push everything to the wall. Had a Chrysler Laser... the original design engine was "ok" for a 2 liter but they wanted "more", so they tossed on a turbo... no beefing up the engine, no increased bearing surface on the crank... at 30k it blew the crank... cracked it. I called around and everybody said, "Yep, they do that..." You have to have sound mechanics, is what I meant.
  14. mbrood
    Isn't the "dead ignition switch" mostly a 2nd gen problem? I know switches go bad and ours ARE going on 20 years... but most of what I've seen on the 1st gen is funky safety switches, connectors and module connection pins... when an ignition switch goes, they die (at least three accounts I've read of). Now it IS real disappointing to read of relative NEW bikes (2nd gen) that turn up "dead" due to an intermittant ignition switch. THAT has to be a fun road-side repair !!!
  15. mbrood
    The BUTTONS have an actual spring as shown above. The switches have a SMALL internal spring washer that pushes the contact apart... these are NOT repairable except by the REAL artist.
  16. mbrood
    Radio shack USED to carry them but I believe they have stopped. !/4" x 1/4", 2 pole, momentary push button... McMaster-Carr, Digi-key are always good sources... http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T082/1932-1937.pdf I believe either figure 6,7,8 or 9 is right (at the top of the page), you'll have to check sizes (convert?) the dominant info is probably the through hole spacing... you really want that to match. You might also check figure 1 at the bottom... but I think the top style is what you want. They are two part switches (four pins, through hole mount... normally open, momentary (closed when pushed) and yet only one section is used... No, don't turn it around and hope... replace it. Stock radios have a rubber membrane between the actual switches and the front panel buttons. Mine did... and they STILL had green crusties on the switches...
  17. mbrood
    These are fairly standard 1/4" micro switches... almost any TV /radio repair shop should have these. I picked up a handfull a while back... my radio only had 5 bad switches... Just watch the "button" height on replacements, I had to shave a hair off the top to make them all the same height.
  18. mbrood
    Video and audio sampling rates reduced to almost nothing to... save download time? The result is rather comical... Alvin, Theodore and Simon sound REALLY upset... and the rocks bouncing around in the squirrel cage with them must make it difficult. The idea has merit but, like many, I want to know REAL results of testing, cost -vs- peformance, MTBF and repair costs. Higher compression seldom leads to long life. A neighbor bought a very used diesel pusher motorhome... couldn't stop talking about all the benefits of diesel power... then had to have an overhaul... yeah, few rotating parts but an overhaul was basically a full rebuild... any savings hoped for went out the window. In the LONG run a diesel can be economical... especially if you sell it just before it needs an overhaul (grin!),
  19. mbrood
    http://www.stingertrailer.com/graphics/trailerunfolded.jpg Folding trailer... http://www.stingertrailer.com I'd be a bit worried about carrying capacity (listed below... 1 bike???) http://www.stingertrailer.com/graphics/trailerfolded.jpg http://www.stingertrailer.com/graphics/chock_jpg/chock2fs.jpg http://www.stingertrailer.com/graphics/rearsketch.gif • Capacity-1 bike • A trailer for a trike is now available - Ask for details • Color-Black • Weight-180 lbs. • Powder Coated for a long lasting finish • 3500 lb axle with Sure-Lube® Bearings • The stinger's design allows one person to simply lift the hitch assembly and tongue with a single motion. • The trailer unfolds to fully extended length. • Three pins insert and secure the hinged portions of the trailer. • Fenders and kickstand brackets are standard equipment • One rider can safely load a motorcycle and secure the tie-downs. • The pneumatic characteristics of the 6 PLY tires and the suspension of the motorcycle itself provide for a safe smooth ride. • Tires load range C 8" Rim, 18" Dia., 6" Wide • Rated for 70 mph extended freeway use
  20. mbrood
    I guess I'm looking mainly at the 1st gen bikes (know little about 2nd gen). One thing i haven't seen addressed... or just missed it... Has anyone with a good mileage bike measured the control voltage going from the boost sensor to the TCI (@ 1,000 rpm idle) and then compare that to some of the lower mileage bikes? If the timing is off due to an error from the boost sensor, couldn't that hold a major change in mileage bike to bike? And why the heck can't we find a Mazda or Toyota replecement for that stupidly expensive part?
  21. mbrood
    My 86 doesn't have the 5 second timeout... it pumps until the pressure is there. It came in handy when I used the pump to empty the tank. I wonder what wire THAT is suppose to be to be followed for possible repair?
  22. mbrood
    Condor, The 84 I work on has ONE large tube from the back of the airbox straight to the "twinkie" and the hole at the bottom front of the airbox just has a line running down the frame like a drain. On my 86, the big rear line goes down to a "T" connector that has a line heading out for the bottom front of the airbox. Is this like your "newer" first gen bikes?
  23. mbrood
    You can check rotor runout (wobble) while it's mounted. ALso check for dragging caliper.
  24. mbrood
    Have you pulled the plugs to see what condition they are in? Color and deposits tell a lot about each cylinder... and new plugs are a CHEAP maintenance step.
  25. mbrood
    Had a bent axle that caused drag... especially draggy at one spot so spinning it, it would STOP there.. real nasty at low speed.
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