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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I had trouble with #3... so I checked resistance from the inside of the spark plug cap to the ignition fuse... 3 of them checked out at about 23k Ohms... 10k for the standard plug cap (5k for the ngk replacements) and 13k for the ignition coil secondary. But that #3 read 36k! The coil read about 13K to the ignition fuse and the end of the coil wire had that funny green corrosion, clipped off 1/4" and hooked it back together... and it read about 23k from the spark plug cap back to the fuse... easy check.
  2. mbrood
    You "can" get to the throttle junction box through the radio compartment... you still have to remove the mirror, pop the electronics out, pull the main plastic that mounts the speaker... pull the two bolts holding the amplifier assembly and then that inner "baffle" WILL come out... it's tight but I went in there and replaced my #3 cable... not much elbow room but enough to get in and get the job done.
  3. mbrood
    You can do some basic resistance checks on both... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/shift-switch.jpg
  4. mbrood
    I firmly believe that west coast bikes are faster than east coast bikes, Maybe we are on the downhill side of the earth rotation and that gives us the advantage. stir, stir...
  5. mbrood
    It DOES say "sample photo"... Heck, give them a call tomorrow... 1-800-616-8495 (upstate New York)
  6. mbrood
    I don't know about the backrest but these guys offer a two-tone seat cover for about $50... http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Motorcycle_Parts/Seat-Covers/Yamaha-Venture-83-85-2-Tone-Brown-Seat-Cover
  7. mbrood
    The problem is that there is some microscopic corrosion between the pin and solder and you want to get rid of that... Heating the solder with the iron AT ALL will just melt the solder and nothing gets fixed. You want to put the iron on the TIP of the pin so IT heats... As IT gets hot IT will melt the solder around it (breaking down the corrosion and giving you a good joint. Then just add a small dab of solder to the solder "puddle"... what you are really adding is a small bit of flux to help the joint. NEVER use acid core... that's for plumbing... just regualr ole electronic solder. So the iron never touches anything but the connector pin tip... now we ARE talking about the little bit that goes THROUGH the circuit board. While you are in there... disconnect the ribbon cable in there and give it a small bit of dialectric grease and reconnect. When you are all buttoned back up, add a little grease to the main pins... you'll probably never be in there again.
  8. mbrood
    But just once every 20 years, it wants you to open it up and resolder the few pins on the circuit board that mate to the wiring harness... Heat the PINS not the solder or circuit board land... heat the pin and apply just apply the LEAST new solder to the land once the solder melts. Then you're good for another 20 years or more... That's all there is to it.
  9. mbrood
    My doctor told me I should try "aroma therapy"... so now I lift the visor more... Shouldn't I be able to claim that?
  10. mbrood
    And the cassette cover is still available... about $18. 26H-88153-00-00 https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php $15.51 plus shipping
  11. mbrood
    Yep, it sounds like the am/fm button is either stuck open or stuck closed... time for some cleaner. I wasn't so lucky, mine had green crud around them and I had to replace about 6 of 'em... went to a local TV/radio repair shop and he had about 50... and gave me 6 for a dollar... just watch the "height" of the shaft on any replacement, you can cut them down but they REALLY need to be all the "original" height or reassembly will find one or mure stuck closed (depressed).
  12. mbrood
    I can sure see where they would call an individual unit a "dual pick-up". The TCI definitely takes four pick-up coil wires "IN" and triggers four ignition coils.
  13. mbrood
    It's a Japanese twist puzzle. Some remove the kickstand switch for more room but it's a combination of turn a little, lift a bit ,turn a little, lower a bit, etc. It WILL come out, it's just a trial, but once you start it rather "walks" right out... strangely it goes in easier but it's still a silly dance. Make sure the bolt heads are in good condition or replace them... they are so recessed, any buggered head will make the "next" removal a lot more expensive. Check for corrosion on the piston and sleeve... if it's not too bad, they can be cleaned and a new seal kit installed. If in doubt, replace the unit. The cost of a new unit isn't THAT much more than the seal kit. It sits at the BOTTOM of the line so contamination and water corrosion take it's toll.
  14. mbrood
    Here's the inside of the '86 left cover... yep, 4 coils and they are identified by wire color. The 84 has the exact same setup... if there was a "mid-term" change before the 90 ( to dual coils) and the single pick-up and transition to CDI, I don't know... You can see the "inner" and "outer" coils... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/alternator-a.jpg
  15. mbrood
    Squeeze, Your info is great... I'll even archive it so I remember. But I'll still fight for the "4" pickups on the early 1st gen... inside the left side cover there are "4" pickup coils and 5 wires out (black = common). Now there's only two magnets in the flywheel... an "inner" and an "outer" that matches since two of the coils are mounted further inside than the other two. Unless you have some other info I haven't run across...
  16. mbrood
    1989 V-max: igniter module 1FK-82305-10-00 boost sensor 22N-82380-10-00 87 venture: igniter module 41R-82305-11-00 boost sensor 22N-82380-10-00 The V-max uses a different cam so that changes the timing I believe... the boost sensor shows the same... so I would think THAT might say the igniters are different enough that they don't swap... unless you want to drop in a new cam? Hmmm... a 1990 V-Max lists: igniter module 3JP-82305-11-00 boost sensor 22N-82380-10-00 1990 Venture: igniter module 3JJ-82305-11-00 boost sensor 22N-82380-10-00 maybe that year ALSO went to the CDI and single ignition pick-up like the Venture. If so that "82305" part doesn't mean much
  17. mbrood
    The spec calls out for a 3 Ohm primary coil... THIS is what the TCI is expecting to see for a load. The secondary is ballparked at 12 K Ohm. The Dyna coils are a suitable hop-up on many other bikes and they DO offer a 3 Ohm version, quite pricey. Now the secondary side is a bit tougher as "our coils" want to see that 10 k Ohm loaded cap above the resistive spark plugs. But several guys have used the NGK wire and cap combo (which is about 5 kOhm I believe) and non-resistive plugs. I think the real key would be to stay with the "3 Ohm" style coils??? The V-Max DOES use the exact same part (25G-82310-10-00), 1985-2007, no revised number (no upgrade) so they must be pretty happy with the coil! As you guessed, the "hot" side of the primary is tied straight to the ignition fuse and the TCI "grounds" that coil's "low" side to generate a spark. It's the TCI primary output drive transistors that were selected to match the 3 Ohm series load and the coil's reactance characteristics. Inside the TCI, these are the 4 large transistors with heatsinks. This is also the area where Yamaha originally used 2 round (gray and blue) glass cased diodes on each final (8 total). These started failing in the field and were updated on newer 1st gen bikes... we can just swap them out with 1N4002 diodes... much stronger, better all the way around.. and cheap! No real idea when the updated dodes were introduced. As 5bikes said, either end of those solid core plug lines can grow that green corrosion and start acting up. I Ohmed from the inside of the spark plug cap back to the ignition fuse... three read about 23 k Ohms (10 for the cap and ~13 K Ohms for the coils)... the fourth one read 35 k Ohms... the resistor in the cap was good and the coil measured 13 K so I clipped 1/4" off the coil end of the spark wire and retested... 23 k Ohms... drastic change and a simple test and fix. And yeah, I could SEE the green stuff on the coil end and the cap end looked fresh and clean... but a little dialectric grease is always applied. Another good test... with the Ohm meter from the spak plug cap to the ignition fuse... give a slight tug on the wire at the cap and at the coil... if you don't have a good connection it will show up right then and need to be corrected. (Yeah, my first attempt at putting the line back in the coil was great, until I pulled on it just a bit... then it went open, shove that wire ALL the way in.)
  18. mbrood
    I believe it's a single metal piece molded in place. Are you sure you've cleaned off all the corrosion and not just probing on some?
  19. mbrood
    Yep, it sounds like time for a master cylinder rebuild kit... the piston seals should do the trick. Even Kawasaki offers a suitable kit to replace just the lever actuating rod and rubber cup. But it's sounding like the piston is leaking... do the rebuild... you and your gloves will be happy. It's probably also a good time to put in new slave seals... there's just two of them and if you haven't gotten in there... it's really a good time to do so and clean up any corrosion so it doesn't get worse... mine just leaked "a little" and when I got the slave out, the seals were totally broken down, almost like gum rubber, you could crumble it between your fingers.
  20. mbrood
    Gearhead, I think you have it together... just like a grade school experiment with a coil and magnet... hook the coil to a light bulb and move the magnet... more movement, more voltage... but remember that the current is dependant on the load... I think the term is total loss... one way or another, the rpm dictates the output potential of the alternator and it's up to the regulator to regulate the "output" to 14.5 volts and everything else gets shunted to ground... one of the reasons it's bolted to the frame and it's in the breeze. The rectifier assembly is just that... full wave rectifiers, three leg... and the regulator internals aren't shown anywhere but it's fairly obvious that the result is basically as you stated. I think the alternator is rated for 300 watts.
  21. mbrood
    Almost any relay can be made to latch... This is a quick diagram where the headlight power provides the "switched" power source. If you are idling and the voltage drops below the zener, the relay drops out and the momentary switch lamp does as well... once you are going, you would have to press the button again. You "could" use the zener direct to the relay but you stand a chance of the thing (at threshhold) bouncing the relay on and off... on and the headlights kick in... dragging down the voltage that drops out the relay which lets the voltage go back up... kicking on the relay. The dual contacts for headlight power is for "insurance" and you still want the single pole amperage rating to be about 1/2 the expected headlight draw. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/latch.jpg But I also agree with George... insure your charging sytem and battery are working properly and up to snuff... ours isn't the strongest by any means but with good parts, clean and tight connections, your regualtor should lock in at about 1500-1800 rpm. I have a lot of running lights so any time at a stop light (brake light on and at idle) and in a turn lane (blinker blinking) you could easily see my voltmeter down around 12v and twitching with the turn signal. Changing the running lamps to LED gave me back almost 120 watts... 32 4 watt bulbs against 32 1/4 watt LEDs.
  22. mbrood
    I would think you can drive a relay from a zener diode (like a 13 volt, 1N4743a). In the reverse direction they won't conduct (breakdown) until the voltage exceeds the devise threshold... so... as long as there is 13 volts at the battery the relay would stay energized, except you want a relay with an "extra pole" so you can build your own "latching" relay.
  23. mbrood
    As can be seen in kbran's photos... They DO get a bit warm around the final amps but the silly things have two vent holes in the bottom so that a heavy rain or a pressure wash throws moisture inside, then they act up and run poor (if at all) until you pull them, toss 'em in an oven (200 degrees please) for an hour or so to "bake them out"... I put some thin wetsuit material inside to let it "breath" but keep out the water. Since they are so "nicely" placed up under the tray the coils sit on... it's a flat PAIN to get to, so once a guy DOES get it out, it's real tempting to put it up top where rain and spray can't get to it. Plus it's easier to get to the connections up there and makes any "swap out" a breeze. There's also tiny holes in the boost sensor to get ambient air pressure but they don't seem as easily affected.
  24. mbrood
    Young kids are faster than a speeding bullet, stronger than a steaming locomotive, and able to leap tall buildings in a single bound. And they just WOULDN'T fall down and get hurt... they're impervious! We should hope that his one or two "lessons" are at low speed and on smooth grass... we ALL felt that way at times... as kids. Then fell down. But yeah, on a crotch rocket on city streets... that's over-confidence times 10.
  25. mbrood
    Remember to look below for similar threads... but there was a recent run of comments on just this subject... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25226
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