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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    I bought some bolt extractors from Craftsman that have saved my bacon a few times on this bike's soft philips head screws. They came in 13 sizes in a small case, looking rather like large nuts but the inside has a steep, tapered spiral, only good for removing frozen bolts and nuts, just toss a socket on them and POP... out comes the screw. Works on rounded out allen heads as well since they grab the outside. http://i9.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/14/df/84b2_1.JPGCraftsman bolt/nut/stud extractor set
  2. mbrood
    Even aluminum foil is bound to help but you might take a look at a stronger bulb... 2357LL?
  3. mbrood
    There were two main types... one has a "L" hook at the lower part of the backrest arm (used only on the 83-85, I believe), the other is the more popular round pivot type that clips into diamond holes in the lower bracket... Here's the later http://bergall.org/temp/venture/corbin1.jpg The lower bracket for THIS type IS different for the 83-85 and 86-93 because the mount area is different...
  4. mbrood
    If I'm reading this right, the static pressure (engine off) produces about a 2v output from the pressure sensor and as vacuum is applied the voltage drops... if you wanted to "cheat" and have it "shifted" to a lower voltage, wouldn't it be as simple as putting in a 10 or 20k pot with the wiper feeding the TCI? http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/boost-help.jpg
  5. mbrood
    Story of my life. Nothing about you Condor... I appreciate your thought. I try and put everything in a labeled box and put tools away properly... and then find some odd tool or adapter "missing"... search and search and finally break down and buy one. Then I think, where should "this" go where I'll find it next time. So I finally decide on some "special spot" and open the box or open that drawer and ... oh... you HAVE to be kidding me... I have also found that when you have TWO... it's not impossible for both to be "lost".
  6. mbrood
    I believe the boots have a center metal "base" in JUST the lower half and THAT'S where most of the cracks show up which means NOTHING to the boot performace, purely cosmetic. The lower half mounts to the engine "firmly" and the upper part has to stretch to accept the carb venturi with clamps. Now cracks in the upper half needs addressed but that's real rare.
  7. mbrood
    Fram # PH3950 for mine... and you can cross-reference from there.
  8. mbrood
    Nobody suggested that he just ask her to get off? Couldn't he put it on the center stand, start it, put it in 1st and "gently" roll on and off the throttle and listen?
  9. mbrood
    Well, "I'M" looking for a set of passenger pegs for the 84 Venture... "someone" doesn't like the FLAT feel of the rear floorboards and I'm smart enough to "try and help"... So if anyone has a set... Mike Brood mbrood@bergall.org
  10. mbrood
    Not at all, you have the upper plastic heat shield removed? You have the water hose pulled toward the right side of the cover? You DON'T want that hose blocking the right forward part of the cover. With that, you "should" be able to JUST get it up enough to work out... Like most things on this bike, it doesn't come right out, it's a bit of a Japanese puzzle... lift a bit, turn a bit, slide a bit, lift a bit...
  11. mbrood
    He's is only 5'1"... but he can outswim a dolphin! I'm size 7 and the local stores don't carry anything below an 8... how rude!
  12. mbrood
    Does this help at all? C: Signal from Speedometer D: Inhibit from clutch, brake E: Raw 12V from ignition fuse (through kill switch) F: Raw 12V from Class fuse http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cruise.jpg http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cruise1.jpg
  13. mbrood
    Looks like a classic case of brain lockup... "I'm holding the front brake but that's not holding the bike back... I know, I'll let go of the brake and..."
  14. mbrood
    It DOES depend on what type of paint but tend to agree with Redneck and Mini-Muffin... Paint thinner used very sparingly on a clean rag in your son's hand. Also works on chrome. Have you considered repainting... your boy's bike? Pink comes to mind...
  15. mbrood
    If someone put 12v direct to the CMS from the battery probe line, they probably blew the IC in the CMS but it's available and can be changed... the chip is a TD62504P There are two on the computer board The battery sensor connects to pin 1 on one of the chips. That is the one to change.
  16. mbrood
    The microfiche shows the gasket on the middle gear cover... nothing for the main left cover. Mine sure didn't have one. I used a THIN bead of yamabond4 on both sides of the gasket (used the pointy adapter off a tube of RTV and screwed it on the yamabond tube... and also REALLY cleaned and applied Yamabond on the wire holder blocks and around the wires... not much time but she isn't leaking a drop.
  17. mbrood
    Kirk, The fuel level looks "about right"... the book calls for the spec I posted. down from centerline... .63" for the 86-93 and .55" for the 83-85 What IS the sensor putting out with the engine off but the ignition key on? Mine puts out a bit "more" voltage than "spec."...
  18. mbrood
    The 83 has several things a bit different from the rest... but the 84 has a basic 5 second timer when the ignition turns on. Toggle the kill switch and you get another 5 seconds. Once the bike starts, the signal to the #2 coil acts as a "keep alive" for the pump.
  19. mbrood
    Thainglo, Now that is one SICK looking sender... I wouldn't be amazed that it was still working but out of respect... shoot the darned thing and put it out of it's misery... and the tank looked worse?
  20. mbrood
    With a clear line on the drain tube and held up against the carb (with the drain screw opened)... shouldn't the level be .63" below centerline of the diaphragm for the 86-93 and .55" below for the 83-85?
  21. mbrood
    The sensor wants to SHOW a voltage to the computer monitor but NOT without resistance. 12V direct will blow a chip in the CMS (it can be relaced but a pain to do it)... The mod is just a 2.2K Ohm, 1/8th watt resistor, in-line from the accessory fuse to the white/red wire connector for the probe... and most auto stores sell the rubber jacketed "Johnson" connector to make up a neat jumper (you need the female). The chip in the CMS is a TD62504P. There are two on the computer board and the battery sensor connects to pin 1 on one of the chips. That is the one to change.
  22. mbrood
    If there's room beside the third cap from the negative lug... you can drill a hole that's a PRESSURE FIT for the sensor... be sure it's not too far either way and in line with the large separator plates and you want it in the "lower" section of the top where the caps are. You might try drilling into a piece of wood to insure that it's a good tight fit for the sensor. Drilling out the screw-in cap might make it impossible to remove? and would it still be deep enough to reach the fluid? I had one where all six plugs were the small type... just drilled out number 3 to a tight fit.
  23. mbrood
    All of that and they can't come up with curbside weight or fuel economy? And where's the darned reverse?
  24. mbrood
    I used an old drum brake "spoon" with an adjustable wrench near the plug (on the blade of the spoon) and it was STILL a bear but it came loose. Expect 20 years of baked on oil and the small bit of lock-tite originally applied did a good job of sealing it up.
  25. mbrood
    I had trouble with #3... so I checked resistance from the inside of the spark plug cap to the ignition fuse... 3 of them checked out at about 23k Ohms... 10k for the standard plug cap (5k for the ngk replacements) and 13k for the ignition coil secondary. But that #3 read 36k! The coil read about 13K to the ignition fuse and the end of the coil wire had that funny green corrosion, clipped off 1/4" and hooked it back together... and it read about 23k from the spark plug cap back to the fuse... easy check.
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