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CptKirk

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About CptKirk

  • Birthday August 15

Personal Information

  • Name
    Kirk

location

  • Location
    Vernon, BC, Canada

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  • City
    Vernon

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  • State/Province
    BC

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  • Home Country
    Canada

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  • Interests
    Building and flying RC Airplanes
  • Bike Year and Model
    Gen1 Royale 83 XVZ12TDK and 87 XVZ13TCD
  1. CptKirk
    Thanks large for the wisdom. Awesome news.
  2. CptKirk
    The neutral switch on my 87 XVZ1300 is leaking oil. After opening the side cover I see that the wiring is cooked pretty well and I'd like to replace the switch assembly while I'm in there. Have a source for a new old stock 1984 XVZ1200L switch and am wondering if that would work as a replacement? The price is reasonable as compared to the dealers crazy price. If it won't work, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced replacement switch. Part numbers on the package of the possible replacement part are 41R-82540-01 A890725C 62 0612-3
  3. CptKirk
    That's where I got the goofy seals from, Pyramid parts. Things that make you go hmmm.......... Guess that's the last time for them.They held oil and air for a short time then started weeping.
  4. CptKirk
    No need to be concerned about the index marks. When putting it back together with the new plates I checked for fit before sliding the plates into the basket. If the fit seemed sightly binding I rotated the friction plate one notch and tried again until a good fit was accross all the disks.I scuffed up the old pressure plates with scotch bright to make a new break in surface and installed two new plates to sub for slight marks on the two innermost ones.Having cleaned up the basket fingers of any old wear patterns by lightly filing them and installing a new throw out bearing I put it together and found no issues. Bottom line is don't worry about the indexing.The steel plates need to be oriented so that the sahrp edges of the pressure plates all face the same direction when installing. ( Sharp edges from the stamping process) I installed them with the rounded edges toward outboard.The clutch works just fine, better than new.No oil leaks either.Had I read more I would have seen the "don't worry about indexing" comment in a post on this forum.
  5. CptKirk
    The seals I was sent by the supplier held air pressure and oil for a short time making me think all was going to be fine. NOT, they leaked through the winter. This year I disassembled the forks and removed them. It would appear I was sent the wrong seals. In comparing them with the stock ones I found the ones I had installed were approx 1/8 " too deep and would not allow enough space for the top spacer. Bottom line is check the seals by compariosn. The new correct seals work perfectly and the top sapcer fits where it belongs along with the snap ring. Long story short never trust the parts you get and always compare them to the origionals. Learned my lesson but am sure good at taking the front end apart and reassembling.Apparently you can trust four people as long as three of them are dead.The top washer has to be in place or the seal has nothing to push against on the back stroke and will bypass oil.
  6. CptKirk
    Think maybe this is the answer re indexing. If you take apart an in used clutch, you would mark each wearing piece so it goes together in a previously worn way. Surface against wearing surface.Built in indexes on stock plates let you do and undo without worry. The Barnett plates would need to be marked to disassemble and reassemble if for some reason you needed to after it had been in service for a while. You'd need to index an in use clutch to put it back the way it was worn and not have binding. The index is only for a used clutch?? Does that make sense.? Wisdom welcome.
  7. CptKirk
    Got it opened up. Actually went well. I see the inner outer thing now. The inner is narrow. Dealer says no indexing needed. Looks like you feel fit each friction plates you load it. Have a new release bearing and all the metal driven plates are like new. Was surprised to see no wear except the most inner one that ran on the thin inner friction ring. Have a new one to replace it with.Green plates are softer to run on aluminum final faces. Barnett is no help though.
  8. CptKirk
    I just bought a set of Kevlar friction plates from a Barnett dealer for my 86 VR XVZ13. When I received the plates two things confuse me. The shop manual shows index dots on the basket and index notches on the plates. These Barnett plates have no index notches on single longer tab per plate. Do I not have to concern myself with indexing or is something wrong with the plates.? The other confusing thing is there are two green colored plates, one for either end of the clutch pack. One green plate is just as wide as all the other plates except it is green. The other plate is also green but is narrow compared to the others. Any idea which one is inboard and which is the outboard plate. Barnett is silent on the subject and no help on their web site. Apparentlythey don't answer email questions. The dealer is equally silent. Both refer me back to the manual. And back at looking for index tabs, no mention of one narrow plate in the manual either. Thanks for any wisdom.
  9. CptKirk
    Looks like all my problems with mileage were the vac sensor. Mileage seems right according to the wisdom here. Would have been nice to polish it up a bit with the needles but that's life. Certainly appreciate the help from all of you. Bike is put way for now as it's just plain getting cold up here. I replaced fork seals this year but they were an ebay item and they still weep oil. So that will be next seasons first issue. I did the job very carefully but no real joy will go over it in another post. Tks large for the assist on this thread.
  10. CptKirk
    I couldn't put it any better than these guys already have. No special tools required, a helper is handy to pump the brake lever and keep the reservoir full or to open and close the bleeder nipple. Click here and print it out for future reference. [url=http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/brakes.htm][/url]http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maintenance/brakes.htm
  11. CptKirk
    Had an issue with my 87 when I got it. Stuck pistons caused increased pressure on one side of the rotor which is a two piece affair. The unequal pressure caused the rivets to let go and the two piece rear rotor could chatter and move independent of the hub (laterally). If your bike has a two piece rotor/hub assembly have a boo at how solid the rivets are that connect the rotor to the hub you may find that they are loose and allow the rotor to wobble side to side much worse than a heat warped rotor. The one I garbaged would rattle like a kids toy yet the previous owner was driving around on it. Pretty sure you know that ANY brake fluid on the rotors or pads will cause a grab and a lockup.
  12. CptKirk
    Went for a ride to a place called Fauqier BC Today, mountains and winding road. It's the other side of the summit of the Monashee mountains. Speeds variable fom 45 mph to 90 mph used cruise for about 40 percent of the ride. Changes since I last rode it, restrictor is in the line with the newest vac sensor I had in hand and a resynch at 3000 rpm. After doing the math from metric to US measure I got 37.98 Miles per US gallon. I will have a look at the plugs in a bit and have a go at lowering the slide needles to see if an improvement can be gained. The new sensor is a help and puts out 3.19 V using the manual bench test procedure. The resynch couldn't have hurt either. Posted some pics just in case you might find them interesting. If you're out in BC Canada the ride to Fauqier is a nice day with some great food and a couple free ferry rides along the way. Just watch out for deer and cattle.
  13. CptKirk
    No idea as I've been using the manual bench test with a 12 volt DC supply. The manual doesn't show a test procedure for an in frame test, at least not the one I have. No doubt inserting a probe would give me that but it's back in the bike and a royal pain to get at. No Manual tests shown for ignition Voltage that doesn't demand 12V min constant. So.............. Switched voltage could well be the best test but why no test in the manual? the manual is actually not the best I've ever seen you ever find that. Makes me feel like a high functioning moron wrote it. No credits in the title as to the author other than YAMAHA. Good bike poor manual. . The ign/charge is 14.2 volts running on a new batt. The 87 sensors came of of running bikes from Pinwall Cycles,the newest one is in the bike now. Petty much working on the balance of probability that I have at least two good ones out of three. Not including a non functional (no hold vac) 87 version and the 83 version that takes it's vac cue above the throttle plates so it has to have a different low/midrange curve making it a spare for my 83 (Puts out3.09 on DC unswitched source) Funnily,the messed up 87 version stills puts out 3.19 volts but no vac voltage output curve in bench test just flat line on pressure or vac 3.19 V constant output so it's fubar.
  14. CptKirk
    I'm reading that the vac sensor should put out 2.0 volt. I have three of them. One is an 83 other two are 87. None of them give the reference voltage of 2.0 volts. I am using storage pack 12 volt source. Is the igniton voltage different? I really don't want to take things apart again. I didn't think to check before I put the cowls back on. It seems unbelievable that all three sensors from different bikes won't give the 2.0 volt reference while bench testing. Sunny 29C here today still good riding weather. There is no global warming?
  15. CptKirk
    Great idea and did exactly that tks for the concept as it's a good one.
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