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came home today. First I want to thank everyone who sent their prayers and encouragement my way (need all the help I can get) also to those near and far who came to see me. You don't know how much that boosted my moral. Again thank you from the bottom of my heart. Tomorow I have two Dr. appointements in Regina. One is to remove that hardware that is screwed to my arm, other is an exam of my eye. Going to be a long day. So long for now; Bigbob
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I've improved gas mileage now on about 12 bikes. This works especially if you are under 40 mpg. I'm consistantly getting mid to high 40's on all my 1100-1200's. Easy 1-2 Hour job 1. Remove the carb cap, 4 screws. 2. Remove the spring. 3. Remove carb slide and diaphram, it's black with a needle hanging out the back. 4. Remove the jet needle, there's a large screw inside the middle of the carb slide holding it in. 5. There is a white spacer under a circle clip. Remove it. 6. Replace the white spacer with any small washers about 1/2 the thickness of the white spacer under the circle clip. 7. Ignore the fact that the white spacer has a small tit on one side. 8. You may want to add extra washers on top of the circle clip. (I didn't on my Venture and a friends) 9. Put it all back together in the same order it came apart. New washers, jet needle with circle clip tight (check it), 1 or more washers on top of circle clip, small spring, plastic screw, in that order. 10. Carefully reinstall slide and diaphram. Notice diaphram has a tap. 10. Do only one carb at a time. (Can use others as reference) 11. Go for a ride checking gas mileage and performance. My friends 87 Std. went from 37 to 45 mpg. 12. Clean and check spark plugs before and after. Correct color is gray, tan or clean depending on type of gas used. Slightly white electrodes is Ok if the plug base near threads is darker. white base and tip is too lean; black is too rich. 13. SO: Add washers under circle clip to richen, remove washers to lean. 14. My bike is faster now lean (hotter combustion) 15. I set pilot jet screws to 1 3/4 turns out 16. All 4 Ventures were way out of synch before I did them. Much smoother now. Questions? Send me a PM or email: chuckfrench48@gmail.com (mention VR)
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I am getting set up for trailering and looking for a hitch for my 2007 RSV. The Diamond R hitch looks like a good product. Is this a good choice? I am wondering if it is easy to remove the drawbar and when the drawbar is removed is the hitch essentially hidden. Any advice appreciated. Jim
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Seriously, I actually have a dead bug in my speedo. (See pic) Have no idea how it got there and I am not quite sure how to remove it. I assume I have to take the windshield off and the black cover off the gauges but now I get lost.
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2 gen clutch release cylinder r&r
gunboat posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
hi all i am going to help james (jburell) to rebuild his clutch release cylinder. i have a question about the removal of it. looking at the manual i have to remove the shift rod, the stator cover, left floorboard, left exhaust and middle gear case cover. can't i just pull the middle gear case cover only to be able to access the two bolts to remove the clutch release cylinder? looks like there would be enought room to unbolt it and drop the cylinder down and out the bottom. seames to me that this one cover would be the easiest and fastest way to go. any ideas or suggestions. thanks in advance & best reguards don c. -
Ok so, I have a first gen ('84) front wheel that is damaged, the rim is bent. Before I throw it away I'd like to salvage the wheel bearings for the spare parts box. How do I remove them? Can it be done without trashing them? Do I need any special tools? Thanks, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont -
Dear Owner's Manual: I know you say simply, "If the headlight bulb burns out, replace it as follows. 1. Disconnect the headlight coupler and then remove the headlight bulb cover." 2. Remove the headlight bulb holder by turning it counterclockwise and then remove the defective bulb." Excuse me sir.........I'm stuck back at HOW THE HECK DO I GET AT THE HEADLIGHT COUPLER!?! Anyone? Do I need to remove the fairing? Or just that one allen screw on the headlight chrome trim ring? (I tried that........and nothing else seems to want to pop off.) Or do I hire a tiny little person with tiny little hands, to reach in behind the fairing, in front of the steering head? Tips? -
Will this work with the front end lowered? http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=58318&store=&catId=416&productId=p58318&leafCatId=41606 to check the air right now, I have to remove the handle bar. Does this take more room then the regular air valve at the top of the forks? -
2008 rsv thinking about hopnel tuxedo panel, question? how do you remove rubber tank panel , do you remove the 2 bolts on either side of gas fill ? what holds the panel on at the bottom ? any input would be appreciated . thanks mike b.
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Anyone with a 2nd gen who has installed the driving lights still have the turn signal they took off? I'm going to remove the driving lights and I need a turn signal bar to put in it's place. Thanks.
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So...I got an 89 and just bought a set of beadrider seats and am anxious to install them. Except how do I remove the seat so that I can cinch up the stretchy cords on the seats? Sweaty in Iowa Iowa Guy:confused24:
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When i got my 85 I thought the seat was dirty. It also was sticky to the touch on the passenger seat. Its already stained a pair of the girlfriends pants. I've tried cleaning it with everything i can think of . So far Windex and nail polish remove have worked BUT Now I'm wondering am i taking a color layer off the top of the seat or am i removing some sort of foreign goo that has been deposited by the prevoius owner in cleaning/treating the seat. The sticky layer can be "rolled" with the finger like glue on a sticker. I read on another site that Armor All might be the culprit If so is there a way to remove it or do i have a seat that needs replacing?
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hey all just got a set of 06 harley road king slip on exhaust and not sure but do they have catalyic converter in them and if so do i need to remove or can it stay in pipes and can i run them with stock set up on 07 RSV Thanks Brian D. -
I am trying to remove the swingarm assembly to change bushing etc. However, please refer to attached pic, I cannot remove item #25 (where the pointer is). This is a "T" shaped bolt that goes through the lower shock mounting. The other side has a bolt (#26) also and a clamp that holds a drain hose. I have tried just about everything I can think of. I used penetrating fluid, tried heating it up with propane torch and hitting or using penetrating fluid. I cannot move this one. I have screwed the bolt back in from the other side and tried hitting it....managed to damage head of this bolt. Removed it again and put in a narrow punch to bottom out in the threaded area. Hit this quite hard but cannot shake this loose. Is there a trick here? Or am I going about this the wrong way? If I can't get it out, I will have to put bike on a lift of some sort, and then remove the center stand to get the #14 area to swing down to replace bushings etc. I will not be able to put in grease zerks unless I can get it off the bike. Thanks all.
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So after putting the 89 VR on the center stand and looking under, I noticed some play in the pivot area. I refer to the following parts diagram from South Seattle sports plaza online at http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/2/Yamaha.aspx (sorry guys, the link didn't work completely. You have to put in motorcycle, 1989, xvz1300w venture, and then select swing arm) After removing shaft1, I found the items marked #33 (bushing) to be badly worn. I did remove the nut from shaft2 but was unable to remove it to see if there is any play on the shock area...any ideas how to get that shaft out? Do I have to punch it out? My biggest worry is getting to Bolt #29 with attached self locking nut #31. I know there are more bushings in that area but be d****d it I can get them loose. Do I have to remove the exhaust collector unit? It looks like it would be much easier to access the bolt and nut if I did so...but then I looked up how to remove the exhaust collector and it seems more complicated than I need right now. Is there a special tool or method some of you have used to access this area? Since I have to travel this weekend and parts must be ordered, I have decided to put the worn bushing back in for now and ride conservatively on this short trip. That's not hard to do in "Flatland" Saskatchewan, Canada. Any help and opinions greatly appreciated folks. Thanks.
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Well, 12,500 miles later, the Dunlop D404 is getting close to giving up the farm. I have been checking online and local shops for tire and labor prices. The stealerships are absolutely outrageous. One wanted nearly $250 just for a Metzler ME880 then another $75 to remove and install. Found a shop that will mount and balance for $35 if I remove the rear wheel myself. That is what I will be doing in the next few weeks.... SO BE WARNED! I'll be calling on all the experts here. -
I did a bit of research here, and couldn't quite come up with what I was looking for. Anyway, I just finished a trip out to the Rockies, and got back to Bismarck day before yesterday. I noticed a slight growling sound that I hadn't heard before, and earlier that day the speedo needle had a little shake in it at certain speeds. Well, this morning we're going over to Mandan, ND and when we pulled into town I noticed the speedo had just quit altogether. It made a couple feeble attempts to come back to life over the next couple miles, but during the rest of my trip home (about 250 miles) it showed absolutely no life. From what I've read, it looks like I can remove the headlight assembly, remove the speedo cable and check to see if it's still in one piece, and then move on from there. Does this sound reasonable or am I in for major surgery? The bike's got about 48K on it now, 4k since March. Thanks
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I need some help. I installed Baron risers and when I turn the handle bars all the way to the right it puts the throttle cable in a bind and it sticks. I have to manually roll it back. I assume I have to get some slack but from where and how? I have tried to pull some slack but I'm concerned about pulling too hard and screwing something up. I have not remove the fairing yet to see if I can re-arrange the cable some way but that was going to be my next move. Any suggestions?
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I want to paint my saddlebags. Any suggestions on how to remove the accent striping decals? -
I recently have purchased R/K mufflers and after asking some questions on this site and getting some great feedback I decided to put them on the bike to listen to how they sound. They are a much deeper tone than the stock mufflers however they are also quieter than the stock because the stock ones have had work done to them. I love the deep exhaust note that I get with the R/K mufflers but would like them to be much louder. Is there a way to remove some baffles without hurting the cans. As of now you can look down through the center of the mufflers with about a 1 to 1-1/2 inch hole straight through. However (what I am assuming are baffles) are around the hole and deadening the sound. Has anyone ever removed some or most of these successfully or will I create problems in the pipes or on the bike from this??? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Big Mike
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How to Remove Your 2nd Gen Radiator Well let me start off by saying 14 months ago I had a little Mishap, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2437&highlight=Radiator+Leak I had to remove my Radiator and I decided to have it welded. Seems that part Held up ok... but now I have another leak, so here go’s Also, I had to use my Daughters Dig Camera and the pictures are not that great But I hope this helps someone if needed. (Note: all left and right are As if I was sitting on the bike) # 1 Remove the two bolts on the left and right lower fairings (# 4 mm Allen Wrench) #2 Look way under the bottom in the middle of the two lower fairings there will be A black plastic screw that helps hold the lower fairings together... the black bolt goes into this hole. #3 now remove the one bolt on the other sides near your air filters #4 here is a critical part in removing the two half’s. Make sure you Remove the RIGHT Lower fairing first, or you will most likely break on of these tabs, if you do JB Weld holds them back In place just fine. I know this because I broke on last year! This is how the two half’s look a bit apart left/right #5 remove the white plastic hose holder down under at the bottom of the lower fairings. #6 Now remove the black power wire on the left side for the fan this will be located on the left side. #7 Now remove the drain plug and drain the antifreeze. #8 Now the FUN part… loosen the top clamp for the rad hose. And next the lower clamp, I did notice the first time I loosened The clap after the factory had placed them they were very hard To get to.. Now I placed them so I can remove them in the future If needed. #9 The Bottom hose MUST be removed first, stick a screwdriver Or whatever in base of the hose to loosen it a bit. Do not tear the hose. Just deal with it and it will come loose sooner or later. #10 now work on removing that top hose in the same manner, As it starts to come loose you will be removing the Rad with A pulling downward motion and also remove it from the top TAB HOLDER. #11 Now with the RAD kind of hanging in place make sure you might want to put a towel on the rear of the front fender as well.. DISCONNET the Orange Plug from the Temp Censer. Squeeze the top/rear and it will pull right off. Now you have removed the Radiator. Here are some shoots not very good but what to Remove from the Rad before having it Welded Or Adding the Rad Parts back onto a new one Like I just ordered.. I will have this one checked And re-welded for a back-up in the future maybe. Here are some pics of how my old one looks now and the old Weld, looks like it help up.. I also have ordered a NEW RADITATOR Cover from Steve. To match my MM Venture. So maybe this will my love of removing 2nd Gen Radiators? http://www.wagnercustomproducts.com/ Should look very kewl! I hope nobody has to go through this ever! And if So I hope this helps you a bit. Feel free to PM me if you need to contact Me about this project if you ever have to do this. Thanks again Scotty. Jeff
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My son-in-law has an 1980 Yamaha XS850G that he has let sit a couple of years. He enjoys the bike but is not mechanically inclined and funds are a concern. We are working to get the bike running again this year for his birthday. The starter quit, and he parked it at that point. My plans are: Remove and clean out the tank, fresh fuel Remove and clean the carbs Sync the carbs Track down the starter issue - I'm guessing the solenoid but need to test it. Install new battery Here's where I'm hoping for some input and ideas. The mufflers have lost the back end, making them straight pipes and too loud. I don't know much about muffler systems. Can the current pipes be repaired by putting in new baffles? Should I replace them? Many here have used mufflers off of Harleys, is this an option? Is it conditional on the pipe diameter? I'm not sure I know enough to ask all of the questions I need to ask. Please let me know any info I need. Dave:detective:
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Hi, I have a 2002 Venture with a dead battery. I have looked through the owner's manual, and cannot find how to remove the seat. Can anyone tell me (in layman's terms) how to remove the seat so that I can attach the battery tender? Thanks so much, Betsey
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Most everybody Knows Peg & I just bought an 88 GL1500. Well the bike runs real good and the paint is very nice but the trunk sure was not to my liking. Has a name painted on it by the PO calling the bike "Blue on Black. I learned from the Gold Wing site that "Easy Off will remove this name paint so I tired it today and yes it remove the name and did not hurt the paint job neither. So I saved the paint job and saved me some money too. I will try to post some photos later on. my internet will not allow it right now.
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Since I have half the bike torn apart, I thought I may as well see what's under the travel trunk and seat. I am now trying to replace/regenerate the desiccant (silicagel) in the drier tube in my 1989 Venture. Got to the part where owners manual (and manual for 1st gens) say to push on cap and remove circlip. WELL....what a chore. Pushed with all my might and finally got the circlip out. Thought man that must be one heck of a spring....but nothing happened after removing the circlip. I CAN NOT remove the cap. I even grabbed it with a plumbers pliers. I can wiggle it, can slightly turn it, but can't remove it. The whole canister and cap seem to be made out of aluminum. I wonder if this has never been changed and it is all corroded up inside? Any suggestions? Probably my next move is to soak the heck out of it with penetrating fluid or such. It will ruin the silicagel, but that can be replaced. Open to suggestions from this knowledgeable crowd.
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