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Showing results for tags 'position'.
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Well I haven't been in headquarters much more than a year and a half and already moved up twice and now its official, I'm now in the Directors position.....
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I am officially employed again, as of Monday morning. My former employer had to dramatically downsize last year, and I had worked hard at eliminating my own position as I was to be promoted to General Manager. To try to struggle through, they had to cut very deep, and unfortunately I had to go. It was a sound business decision that I would have made the same way myself - their doors are still open but they are struggling. Time will tell. Regardless, as the automotive business all over tanked last year, there were many, many supplier shops here in southern Ontario which also closed, making the job market exceptionally tight for all. I dedicated 3-4 hrs every morning to just my job search : researching companies, tracking down contacts, cold calling, etc... and now finally, after 11 long months, I am joining another progressive automotive parts manufacturer in a position that I will enjoy. I had an interview Thursday afternoon, and I had a firm offer in under 24 hours, and I start Monday. I know there are quite a few members on here looking, and all I can say is do not give up. It's hard and certainly frustrating but things do come through eventually.
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I found a major source of frame and bar buzz on my bike which turned out to be the passenger floorboards. When the boards are in the upright stowed position, you can move them side to side freely before hitting the spring stops.. "loose" is quite accurate. I jammed some soft wood between the mounts and the pivot end of the floorboards to seize them up while in the upright position and yep.. what a huge difference. I took one apart to confirm that yes, the ball and spring were present and reassembled it but its very loose.. Is there a more permanent / proper way to tighten these up other than jamming a stick of wood like i have? You can't see the wood, I seldom ride with passengers.. but would like to sort this out somehow.. Anyone else experience something similar?
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Hey Guys I went to the Grocery store on Saturday and when I came out to go home I inserted the key and at first the lights blinked on and then nothing. Great, I thought to myself. I went home and grabbed my truck and trailer, went back and hauled the bike back home. Here's where it gets interesting...I turned the key to the acc. position and the radio started playing intermittantly. I was tired and decided to work on it on Sunday afternoon. When I went back and took the lower half of the fairing so I could get to the starter ( I thought it was probably a loose wire on the starter or a grounding strap...It wasn't ) I would turn the key to Acc. and the radio would not work, but when I turned the key to the On position, one little light came on in the radio but it would not play and nothing else would light up ( ie. dash light, pump, lights...completely dead ) but the little light on the radio was on. It would only come on in the On position and go off in the Acc position. But still nothing else would come on. It's got me stumped. I checked the starter solenoid. It's not loose however I know little else. If any body would be so kind as to point me in the right direction, I would be grateful. Thanks Ken:fingers-crossed-emo -
Hello VR Forum! I'm a newbie here as I just purchased a 2006 RSTD last night. It's a sweet bike, but I already have one problem. The dealer (or someone) put the gas cap in wrong. It's stuck and won't come out. The triangle notch on the top of the cap is pointing at the road behind - the 6:00 position - when it should be pointing at the road ahead - the 12:00 position. I tried and tried to get the cap off, but had no luck. Today after work, I'm going to try to hold the key in the unlocked position while spinning the gas cap so it's in the right position to be removed. A mechanic at a local Yamaha dealer suggested this one. Any other advice?? Thanks, Greg -
Got to take a test ride on a '09 Voyager. Was out for about an hour ... the only thing I didn't get to test was climbing hills. Following is just my opinion... Pro's Well balanced, ample power, comfortable seating/leg/arm position. Feels and handles more like my '85 Venture without the top heaviness ... in other words, it felt a lot lighter. Handled the twisties nicely and felt stable when going over bumps in a twisty. Smooth ride on the highway @ 160km/h (thanks to a 6th gear). Rumbles along nicely in 5th at lower speeds and accelerates reasonably well. Great stereo sound quality. Nice exhaust sound Seat is very comfortable. Engine/drivetrain is relatively quiet compared to the RSV Nina experienced less wind buffeting than on the RSV No "buzzing" feeling in hands or feet Seating is lower for both rider and passenger. I felt a lot more "in control" with this bike...it was very easy to drive and a lot better in parking lot maneuvers than the RSV. Frame mount fairing .... bike is very stable in turbulence. Tracks very well. Con's It's a V-twin so under hard acceleration, you know it's a V-twin. Lots of reflection of the chrome parts on the tank in the windshield. Seating/leg position for passenger is not as comfortable as the RSV (at least according to Nina but she is taller than most women) I experienced more side wind than on the RSV Not as powerful as the RSV but it still gets ya going quick enuf. Clunky shifting, probably just a "nature of the beast" Definately not as smooth as the RSV but that's what ya get with 2 cylinders versus 4 although I found the Harley Ultra just as smooth. Overall I like the bike and it would be a strong contender if I was to sell the RSV although if Nina had found the seating position better .... hmmmm ... we might have... dang, I do like that scoot...
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Anyone here ever tried to adjust the throttle position sensor on a 2nd gen (or even just check the closed throttle measurement)? I think I found another significant error in the shop manual, but I would like to compare notes with others who may have already gone there. Page 6-13 of my shop manual describes how to calculate the proper maximum resistance of the sensor in the throttle fully closed position (typically around 700 ohms), then they instruct you to measure this resistance between the yellow and blue wires. Well, the resistance between the yellow and blue wires is HIGH in the fully closed position and goes down as you open the throttle. You get the correct low resistance with the throttle fully closed when measured between the yellow and BLACK wires. Just for the record, the TPS on my 05 was reading a bit high in the fully closed position, and it could not be adjusted down within specs - close, but not quite low enough (calculation showed it should have been between 629 - 726 ohms. It started at 778 ohms and I could not get it below 752 ohms). I have not researched this circuit yet to know how this should affect the bike. I'll let y'all know more when I figure it out. Goose -
I saw in the Iron Butt magazine that a high position is preferred for auxiliary light mounting. They said that a high position allows the light to reflect off objects and back to your eyes more effectively. Mounting lights on the mirror stalks or reservoirs is the way to go, they say. I saw the Denali LED D1 Lighting Kit review show up, and checked them out. They would seem to be perfect for mounting up there... small and sturdy. But how? Anyone mount lights up near their hands? Dave
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ok, so my water light keeps comming on. I've been reading back through the 1st gen forum and i've seen 3 different positions that the valve is said to need to be at. one person said that it should have off pointed at the 5 o'clock position. another pointed out 2 o'clock, and someone said off pointing to the 10 o'clock position .. anyone know for sure? i know i'm building pressure (although i don't have the tool to measure the specific amount) and my radiator is full, as well as the bottle in the fairing being over half full. so the only areas i'm not sure about are the tubes, and if the valve is letting water through. it's been cold enough that the thermostat gauge doesn't even move, so i can't tell that way.
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Anybody have an extra gear position indicator switch they want to part with? And how much you want for it? Need one for my 84. All I have is one for an 83. Thanks, Bill -
Well, I did it...gave up my weekends for my wife. Her position was eliminated and she had to bid another position. We both had Sun/Mon off. She got stuck with tue/wed off. Thursday I bid a new position and I had a nice selection of weekends off. I took a tue/wed position to match hers. 6 pm to 230 am. There goes some planned Meet and Eats. Im still having the one on May 8th here with Blackjack, so.......... Please tell me I did it for love............
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Just wanted to do a shout out here and thank BigFoot for his assistance in helping with the fund raising for the 2010 International at the M&E. For those that were in a position to purchase either tickets for the trailer raffle of the 50/50, your ticket numbers are being sent out by PM. Thanks again BigFoot.
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Guy says his paperwork and registration say this bike is a 2001. Correct me if I'm wrong but, isn't this a 1999 color scheme? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-Yamaha-Royal-Venture-1300cc-Nice-touring-bike_W0QQitemZ180403323679QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_motorcycles?hash=item2a00e0431f&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 The colors and position of the colors on the tank and trunk (light on bottom, Dark on top) seem to say 1999
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I have been stumped for about 1 week now. One sunny day I was riding home from work and my radio just cut out....no power to the tuner where the volume control is. After tracking down which fuse it was, I found that the 10 amp fuse behind the side cover...aka backup fuse, was blown. I figured it was probably an original fuse, changed it out and it worked fine for about 1 week. Then one day it blew shortly after starting, while idleing. So being suspicious I was careful to watch while I put in the new fuse. With the key in the off position I noticed the fuse was arcing while I inserted the fuse....wierd....tried to see if the radio worked by turning the key to acc position...worked fine....turned the key to the on position with the radio on and everything ok....hit the start button and lost radio power. All I can think is that the ignition switch is shorting out??? ANYONE EVER RUN INTO THIS? Please shoot me your ideas or experiances!!!! Thanks, Big Mike:think::think::think::think::think:
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erhm are any of you gents and ladies electrically inclined to be able to help me out with this one? I've come to realize that my 4 way flashers no longer work, I am not able to find a clymer book to help me with the trouble shooting so I'm hoping one of you savvy individuals can assist me.. With the bike running or not, ignition switch on (bike not running), I have my turn signals working properly if the 4 way flasher switch is to "off" position. However, when the 4 way flasher switch is to the "on" position, the signal lights won't flash. Someone has told me that it's a simple 4 way relay change but don't know the part number or location or 'anything else' about it.. Anyone able to help me out with this one? Many thanks in advance! Cheers
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I purchased a motorcycle jack from Pep Boys some time ago and have not used it as yet. Yesterday I slid it under my 2004 Venture R/S; I couldn't find a place to position the jack that might not cause damage. Also, is there something on the undercarriage that shows the center balance for my bike?
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I have an 07 RSTD. Do you turn the fuel valve to "off" when you leave the bike? I always left my '84 VR valve in the "On" position unless the bike was going to sit for several weeks, I don't think I ever had a problem. I'm wondering how the RSTD is with this.
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I finally got a chrome luggage rack for my 07 Venture. Before I start drilling holes I figure I should ask for any tips. Is there a trick to figuring out where to position it? In the future, I thought I may get the lighted spoiler that Yamaha sells. I have seen somewhere on this site that you can have both if wanted. I don't want to position the rack in the wrong place as to rule out the spoiler in the future. Do any of you have any tips? I plan to start drilling the holes tomorrow morning. Thanks in advance, craigr
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Last weekend I decided to synch my carbs again, it's been a few months. I hooked the carbtune up and the carbs were pretty close but I had to adjust one to get them perfect. After that I decided to switch the connection tube around at the top of the carbtune. They were out of synch agian. So I started experimenting with the different tubes. Took one carb tube and moved it through all four positions and found a different reading at each position. So I kept making adjustments based on a single gauge position until I had the same reading from each carb at that one gauge position. Then reconnected all four and there was some variance between the gauge tubes. Has anyone else experienced this? DT
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Can anyone direct me to the location of the fuel pump relay on and '04 Venture? I can wire direct and the pump runs fine but get no power when I turn the key to the "ON" position. Anyone else had similar problems? Solutions? Thanks, Chief
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I'm thinking I have a main switch thay may be heading south. Over the weekend, I found a dead spot in the "on" position that kills everything dead if the switch is wiggled while in the "run" position. I have the manual, but see nothing about R&Ring the switch. Anyone got a procedure for removing and cleaning the switch? Thanks.
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I recently purchased a 87 VR. The PO of this bike addecd a cig lighter, which runs directly to the battery. While this wire is hooked up the memory light on the radio stays lit, along with a small red light on the radio, when disconnected they go out, Yes this is all while the key is in the off position. I am not sure what one has to do with the other, hopefully someone here can help. Thanks in advance. Kurt
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Hi. I've seen alot of traffic here on how to wire driving lights. Using a relay is the ONLY way to go, but there's the decision of whether the relay should trigger off the HI beam or not. When I first installed them, I wanted them to get power only when the headlight is on, and thru a separate switch. Therefore, I can turn them on or off, but if I leave them on when starting the bike they go off during starting (with the headlight) to reduce battery draw. So that's what I did, and it works well. However, the lights are blinding to oncoming traffic so if I'm on a country road and encountering frequent but not steady traffic, I'm constantly flipping both the HI/LO switch and the driving light switch (car coming, put headlight on LO and turn DL's off). That's why it's nice to have them on the HI beam circuit, but sometimes I like to have the LO beam on with the DL's (on my dirt road, for example). . So I had an epiphany which allows me the best of both worlds. I replaced the DL switch with a double-throw type of the same size. Center position is OFF, fwd position is ON (still tied to HL circuit as before), and back position is tied to the HI beam circuit. This is all for triggering the relay; the main DL power still goes thru the relay. It's pretty slick :-) Jeremy
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The serendipity house still stands. You can rent her out for $1700 a week. Best ocean view on the outerbanks. The underhouse parking is not what it use to be. Take a look before the web cam moves position. I bet a Noreaster wil take her out soon.Richard Greer crew filmed part of the Nights Of Rodanthe from her. http://www.darenc.com/webcam/mirlo.php
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What is the correct location of the thick washer on the right side of rear axle? Is it against the wheel hub or against the swing arm? This affects the rear caliper arm mounting position. The service manual does not clearly show this that I can find. Thanks, Gary gary@dinges.com
