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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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Well this is very odd.. Its happened more than once this year where I would pull in for fuel, top right up to the gunnels and when I ride away, for the next 2 to 4 miles down the road, the gauge will read two to three bars down from full.. then slowly add bars until full bars are showing. I'll arrive at destination, 12 or 20 miles down the road, shut off the bike and then roll away after a while.. the fuel gauge shows 1/2 full bars.. but only 20 miles total run since fill up.. then the bars creep up to full or down one bar. Something is sticking.. On a long round about right hand turn off the highway, with the bike leaning hard to the right side, the fuel gauge once again read much lower that it should have for the amount of distance travels but the bars didn't increase. Its doesn't happen all the time, can't seem to pin it down to any specific conditions.. but oddly enough, my buddy with his 2008 does the same thing from time to time.. His bike did this often last summer but it cleared itself.. Any idea what we might start looking at to start trouble shooting this issue? 15 days to road trip, it's something I'd love to clear up.. Cheers
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So, last fall I changed the carb. diaphragms out in the 86. Found one with a slight crimp on the edge but no holes or problems. It was more of a preventative measure. Did a carb synch and set the idle circuits using the idle rpm drop method. Bike felt smooth and good power. However, my fuel mileage dropped from 40 commuting to 37. i run about 60-70 miles a day from work to home. The measured mpg is cold start with choke and all speeds. I could smell the exhaust as being a bit rich. Tried adjusting the idle screws to no avail. Fast forward to maintenence day. I have a set of needle shim washers and a color tune with me. MikeZ and I changed out the washers and set the synch again. It looked pretty good. I could also tell that there was a difference by the choke lever settings. The colortune needs modification to work on the venture. So, did not touch the idle settings. On the way back to San Antonio I got 37 heading into a wind. I used almost a gallon less fuel than Mike did on his 1989. Now, it had more luggage on board and did have a bit of an afterfire. Next week it was back to commuting to work. Checked several tanks of fuel and found I am up to 41mpg! And the rich smell at idle is gone. So my suspicion is that the replacement diaphragm are not only a bit stiffer than the originals, but possibly a bit thicker. Plug color is good. Next stop is figuring out a good way to use the colortune on the V-4. JB -
Would someone please tell me which end is pointing? Is it the long slender end, or the short-stubby end that is the "pointing" end? Thank you.
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Trying to find the part number for a alternate fuel filter. Not interested in relocating it just one that will fit for less than 21 bucks plus tax. Suppose to be in the library but my searches keep coming up blank.
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New to posting on this site, but have been researching since last year. Lots of information and help to take in. I have a 88 VR that has served me well for many years. Now, I'm at a point where I may call it quits. I was unable to ride for a whole summer (2010) due to health problems. The VR had been winterized and parked inside. I tried to fire it up spring of 2011 and would not run. Fuel looked like thick/dark apple cider. Drained fuel, flushed fuel tank, replaced fuel filter and filled the tank. At this point the bike barley ran. Pulled the carbs and cleaned following the write ups. No change. Slides did not seem to move, replaced diaphrams. No changed. Now for the expensive part. Tried to find someone to work on it. Only one place in town would touch it. They did a "carb Job" and said it ran great. Picked up the bike and it ran that was about it. No power, bad fuel milage (22 HWY @60), and bike surged on the HWY. Rode it for a week hoping it would come out of it. Only option was to take it back. Two weeks later, picked it up with a pick up coil replaced and a ton of labor hours. Surge on Hwy gone and barley runs. Bike acts like it is bogged down until RPM reaches about 6000. Then it runs like it use to. Tons of power and sounds awesome. Sorry for being long winded but wanted to offer as much info as I could. Any help or ideas would be great. Thanks for your time. Bill -
Pegscraper brought this up on another thread and I thought this would be a good discussion. In 2010 it looks like there couls be a totally new redesign for the Venture. Speculation is that at its heart will be the new V-Max engine in some form of detune , probably with strong low and mid range. The V-max engine is Fuel Injected. The question is will it reall make the engine and bike more effecient or is carburetor technlogy still viable? I used to work for Delphi where we delevoped the Efi for Harley. All indications so far are that the Harley engine start quicker with no warm up neccesary and that the engines actually run smoother and have better throttle response. Plus new Fly-by-wire technology is all the rage F.I .is needed to go to that step. ? What do you think?
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so i have had the carb cleaned and gone over by the shop and they only changed out a few O rings and I changed out the diaphragms. The carb is back on the bike but I can not for the life of me get the bike started. I have screwed fuel air mix screws all the way in and then out 2 1/2 times and it will just turn over with no indication of actually wanting or sounding like she wants to start... at one point i turned the screws back in and counted 7 turns and that was the point that it sounded like it almost wanted to start. I also had fuel leaking from one of the screws at that point. Could amperage be a culprit? It has a new beth but the volt meter on the dash is hanging around 8 1/2 "or low"??? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated:bighug:. I'm about to do this to the shop. --> Keep the rubber on the road. Mike
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This is probably a dumb question. I think there is something wrong with my fuel injectors. Can a person roll this type of vehicle down hill and pop the clutch and get the cylinders to pump/suck fuel to start. If so then will the car stay running until shut off.
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I ordered two new batteries for the first gens today.With gasoline prices rising looks like more riding for me. Now to figure out my fuel economy problem on the 84. I normally get 36 mpg but when I ride with Yammer Dan I only get 24 mpg. Must be a fuel leak somewhere?
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My mustang got in a little wreck and I found a 92 trans am for 340 bucks. I bought it before even looking at the odomoter. I got going down the road and i looked down and saw it only had 113xxx miles on it. But anyways back to my question, I want to put a 350 LT1 fuel injected motor into it, can i still run the tranny that's in it now?
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I am working on a friends 98 Harley 1200 Sportster. It runs descent cold but as it warms it starts to backfire through the carburetor and the tail pipe. It acts like it is starving for fuel but I know it is getting fuel. I have replaced the coils with known good coils but still the same thing. Has anyone had this problem before? I know this is not a Harley forum but I need some help on this one. Thank you,,,
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I have an 08 RSTD with just over 50k trouble miles free miles until today. It started fine and I pulled out of the driveway and made it maybe a tenth of a mile and it felt like it was running out of gas. I reached down and checked the petcock it was on. Then it finally just quit. It would fire again but then cut out again. I'm gonna check the filter and see if I got bad gas(water). I just changed the airfilters and plugs and synched the carbs. It ran fine coming home from work this morning after filling up which leads me to think it could be the fuel pump. BTW I pushed it the near 1/4 mile back to the house... that was a B. Any thoughts?
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i bought a one owner mazda b4000 (ranger) 4x4. i have made some improvements. i installed a BBK 66mm throttle body, a K&N FIPK, an Accel coil, 8mm wires, and DynoMax cat back exhaust. my question is : what about fuel? the stock injectors run at about 22lbs. bosch. if i upgrade to a 30lb, will performance gains be noticable? im sure gas mileage will suffer a little, but my thought is: more air (done) , more fuel ( not yet) equals more h.p. right??
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So I've ruled out a 20 kw generator for I can do what I want with a 10 kw portable generator. I found a TriPower generator that has 3 independent fuel system (gas/propane/natural gas). I just spoke to a sales rep and he described the switching process from one fuel system to the other. One does not need to purchase any additonal generator accessory to do this. I currently have a 500 gal propane tank to just heat my home including hot water tank. It would be nice to have both source of fuel (Gas & Propane) I hope to purchase one before this coming fall. http://www.unitedgenerator.com/proddetail.php?prod=HPS12000HE So my general plan is to move all the 30/40/50 breakers from my main panel to a sub panel and feed the sub panel with say a 125 amp breaker from the main panel with a transfer box. Then move all my 15/20 amp breakers to a sub panel and feed it with a 100 amp breaker from the main panel with a transfer box. With power management I would think that I could power all my power needs during an emergency. Opinions welcome.
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I've got this Farmsaw, built by Pioneer in Peterborough ONT, somewhere around the early 80's. I really don't need it, but I thought to clean it up, get it running and then sell. It's the orange one, not the yellow model. SO here's the issue. When I got it, it wouldn't turn over, but with a little persuasion that happened. It doesn't fire or even bark. It has spark and a new plug. The timing is right on. I cleaned the carb, and it gets fuel. Get about 60 lbs compression on 3rd pull, 25 on 1st pull. Decompression valve works. I tried to inject some ether,, I know, that's bad, but it won't bark on that either. I'm out of ideas, so now it's up to you guys.
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Ok, so my 83 Venture started messing up and it seemed like it just might be the battery, but I'm starting to think I was wrong in my initial assesment. It started with the battery voltage meter looking lower than normal, then when I stopped for gas, it would not start back up, turn over slowly then went dark, nothing at all showing up, no fuel pump clicks nothing. I thought maybe a bad connection or the fuse blown but thats not it, anything else it might be? Any help would be appreciated.
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I saw this on another site and don't know how reliable it is but I thought I would post this here just in case it involves any of you. Please forgive me if it's false. Hello everyone. I just received a letter from Yahama Motor Corp. stating it has been decided that a defect which relates to motorcycle safety exist in all 2009-2011 and certain 2012 XVS95 {V-Star 950} and XVS95CT {V-Star 950 Tourer} model motorcycles as well as all 2007 XVS13 {V-Star 1300-Tourer} models Reason for Recall,,, " In Affected motorcycles, there may not be a proper seal between the fuel pipes for the fuel injectors and the fuel hose that connects them due to an improperly molded fuel hose. Over time, pressurized fuel can begin leaking at the hose connection points, which could result in a fire hazard. " CONTACT your dealer if you have any questions.
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Hey Yammer, Christmas is getting closer, and if Leslie need some ideas for what to buy me again this year. Let me help you out! Some nice Smooth Chrome Master Cylinder Covers (STR-4NK18-10-01) or Chrome Billet Fuel Tank Mount (STR-1D627-09-01) would look great on my Midnight. Just saying......
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well not dead, just intermittent. I'd noticed the motor getting a little balky on cold starts. Then it would not run at all unless I rapped on the pump body with a tool, and the plastic end of the pump was getting piping hot. I bypassed the pump and approached the dealer shop guy about the warranty. He said I'd have to bring the bike in and leave it. I rarely do anything like that! Then I remembered seeing an article here about the Mr. Gasket 42S. Thanks to all who contributed to that information. I got the 42S installed pretty easily, and as far as I can tell it pumps fine. I notice it passes fuel even when it is unplugged. That means I'll have to get used to using the petcock. Thanks again to all who took the time to post info and photos. What a treasure this board is!
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I've read a couple of existing posts about fuel gauges, so I think I need to replace the sensor inside the tank. But, let me give a few details and see what y'all think. I have a 99 RSV that has under 1000 miles on it. Was sitting in some garage in pieces and put back together by the person I purchased it from. I replaced the main wiring harness b/c the person who took it apart in the first place did some stupid, nasty stuff to the wiring. Well, once I got it electrically working, and had the carbs rebuilt, there is still this odd fuel level reading issue. I DO get the yellow light telling me my tank is low, but my fuel level never reads anything but a blinking single bar after fill-up. I've pulled apart the connector under the black tank cover and put it back together, giggled it around a bit, and no change. Should I replace the whole piece inside the gas tank (4 screws, rotate it a bunch till it pulls out)? Thanks! - Michael
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My low fuel indicator has stopped working. The light does not come on and the odometer does not switch to the "find a gas station, dummy!" mode. Is this an indicator that the sending unit has gone bad? Anyone had any experience with this? The gauge itself still works.
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Been flying RC Planes for sometime now, Had a break in it for the last 3 years. But as Winter is coming on I am back into it as so I do not go CRAZY for the next 4 or 5 months being stuck inside here in Iowa during the winter. bike is all put away and the modeling begins. My Question is ALL this talk about Sea Foam and I use it faithfully and it's wonderful stuff, why would it not work in my older nitro fuel that has been sitting for a couple years? maybe put an once or so in the gal jug? The older fuel has been indoors all this time. for that do not know our airplane fuel has nitro/methane and a percentage of oil in it. and are used in 2 stroke and Four Stroke model engines. Thanks for your in-put Jeff
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My brother has a 1997 Royal Star. He got a DUI last year and the bike has been sitting since then. This week he got his license back so we started trying to get the bike running. The battery was toast so we replaced that. Next problem was that when we tried to start it fuel was shooting out the carb drain hoses. After a little research we discovered that the floats were probably stuck and the fuel pump was constantly running and overflowing the carbs. I tried tapping on the carbs to unstick the floats. That got the fuel pump to stop sending fuel spewing out the drain hoses and the bike would even start but it wouldn't run. It would idle very rough and I suspect only on one cylinder. I figured that the carbs were probably too gummed up for the thing to run so we pulled those off and cleaned them. I didn't completely break the carbs down. I took enough of the brackets off that I could remove the float bowls. I removed the float bowls and all the jets and cleaned everything up with spray type carb cleaner. The two carbs on the left were pretty filthy, I imagine because the bike was on the kick stand leaning to that side. Once the carbs were cleaned up and reassembled we put them back on and the bike won't start at all. Anybody got any ideas?
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After the past few fillups my fuel gauge never completely registers as full. It stays down by one bar. It may blip up to all bars but only for a few seconds. It seems to trend down O/K as the tank goes empty. I have not checked any connections yet and wonder if it a grounding problem. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Does anyone know how the sending unit works? Any help is always appreciated. Thanks JR -
Well, my poor Venture decided that I had ignored her long enough and won't run properly. Back in spring, my shifter cam had decided that it was time to fail. Since I was short on cash, I parked it and started riding my Maxim. Since I only have space allowed for one bike in the garage, the Venture got the short straw and was left outside under a bike cover. I put Seafoam in the gas and let it run a little. During the summer, I started a few times just to get it running. Finally, a month ago I got the new parts and installed the revised shifter cam in. Problem is, now it only runs with the choke on, and backfires alot. If I try to twist the throttle, it will immediately die. If I play with it as it's dying, I can get it to rev up, and actually get it to move, but as soon as I let off, it dies. I've taken the TCI out, stuck it under a heat lamp for 4 hours (mmmm, toasty) and cleaned the connectors, but still acts the same. I did get my low beam back tho (had been off for a while, bulb is good). It is dim, not full strength, but has done that on occasion since I got it. Don't know if that was related or just coincidence. I've taken the carbs off and cleaned the insides. A couple of the pilot holes appeared to be plugged, now they are all clear. Before I did this, the left front exhaust wouldn't get warm but now all pipes get warm within 1/2 min of idling (with the choke on). The diaphrams have a couple of pinholes, but they had them before and it still ran better than this. I will be replacing them soon. When I turn it on, it sounds like there is a bunch of clicking right by the fuel pump, can't remember if this was normal. Haven't checked on fuel pressure, or the filter, I haven't had much bike time. The bike was running ok before it got parked, not perfectly but still very drivable. I'm open to suggestions, I hope to have it running so I can drive it to it's winter storage area (125 miles away @ my folks place) before the snow flies. Thanks, Andrew
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