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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Sorry did not make it to SLO, to meet you folks from up North. I made it to the Calif border and came down with severe stomach Cramps, had to put up in a room for two days. Best I can figure is I got some bad food somplace along the way. Anyway, maby next year, glad to hear everybody had a great time. So, it was a 700 mile trip to no where !!! but that the way it goes sometimes.
  2. GeorgeS
    Also, lubricate, the Bushing, on the Speedo, where the Cable hooks up !!! And the Odometer gears --- Its the right thing to do
  3. GeorgeS
    Watch E-Bay !! They do show up there.
  4. GeorgeS
    Some lubrication, might help ---
  5. GeorgeS
    Check the Run Stop Switch on the Right Handlebar. Maby corroded Contacts, and high Resistance thru this switch, will lower the Voltage to the TCI and the Ignition Coils. Give the Switch a Bath with electrical contact cleaner. Follow cable from switch, you will come to a Plug. Open plug, and check the Resistance thru the Switch. Also, consider the " ON- OFF " Contacts of your Main Ignition Switch . The contacts, may have gone High Resistance !!
  6. GeorgeS
    Did you check the Gray colored PVC plastic Dust shields, around the rear wheel, and Hub assemblies ?? They might be cracked, and distorted. Just a thought.
  7. GeorgeS
    I had one leak !!! I could hear it sucking while rideing ( yes really ) Also, there are O-Rings where they mount to the Heads, this could also be source of leak.
  8. GeorgeS
    I do idle, then check at about 2500, then try to split the difference. I have found that its impossible to get them perfect.
  9. GeorgeS
    Try the Dunlop E-3
  10. GeorgeS

    2006 rstd

    GeorgeS posted a topic in Watering Hole

    I stopped by I-90 Yamaha in Issaquah, Wa. this afternoon. Offered me a left over 2006 RSTD, for $12,000, plus $495 Set up and sales tax. Black !! I just happened to see it there on my way to the parts counter, and stopped to eye ball it, and guess what? the Salesman showed up, with that quick offer. Hmmm ??
  11. GeorgeS
    Got msg fro " Royal Pain " He found the Brake light Problem. Inside the Trunk, Former owner had a Jumble of Wires, with Twisted together Splice's , useing Black Tape to cover them !!! He got them sorted out, and fixed a so called splice, and the Brake lights Now Work !!!! Take Heed, All you folks out there who, strip off a wire, Twist it together, and Cover with Black Tape !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WE ELECTRICIANS KNOW YOUR OUT THERE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He made it home, and is catching 40 winks !
  12. GeorgeS

    VMAX

    GeorgeS replied to TEW47's topic in Watering Hole

    Its a 197 HP Engine now !!! Lot more power
  13. GeorgeS
    I would say, OK, but make sure its Fully Charged when you put in storage. ie. charge at 6 Amp Rate, for about 6 hours. Voltage should settle in at about 12.6 to 12.8 volts after charging.
  14. GeorgeS
    Progressive Springs and the SuperBrace: Its the way to go !!!
  15. GeorgeS
    Order a new set of Progressive springs, Remove the Caps, same as adding oil, and pull out the old ones, and install the new ones. Nothing to it !! Cost, about same as Yamaha OEM springs.
  16. GeorgeS
    And IF it has the new V-Max Engine-- Thats 197 HP, and 123 lb. ft. of torque --- Granted, it could be de-tuned, but ???
  17. GeorgeS
    Another D-404 Eh ???
  18. GeorgeS
    Well whatever it is, I Ain't Never Seen One !!! Wierd looking Exhaust system ---
  19. GeorgeS
    You might try, Removeing the Hose, From the Rear Caliper, And the Output of the Master Cyl, and then blow it out with compressed Air, to Make sure Its Clear. Now with the Hose OFF the Rear Caliper, Install a hose on the bleeder port, and blow in low pressure Air, Just to Make sure its Clear. Now Re Install the Hose. Now, Pump Fluid INTO the Bleed Port, Useing the MytVac tool, ( yes it will work both directions, Vaccume, and pressure ) Do the Pumping Very slowly, with Cap off the Resorviour. You should be able to get it to overflow. IF NOT, there Is Blockage, in the Bottom of the Resovour, OR the Cylinder. If you get the fluid to go in that way, Now Reverse the proceedure, try pumping, and doing the normal bleeding procedure. If you have success, then Re Bleed the Left Front, and back and forth. etc etc. Also, by the time you succede, your Pads will probably be soaked with Fluid, and have to be replaced.
  20. GeorgeS
    I thought you were going to Sell 3 of the old ones, and get a 2nd gen !!! Nows the time !!!!!!!!!!!
  21. GeorgeS
    Use a propane torch, to Add some Heat, to the Hub assembly, this usually allows the old bearing to come out with less force. Just don't overdo it, with the heat.
  22. GeorgeS
    Sounds like bearings. Remove wheel, and Use a long Drift to Tap them out. Not hard to do. Installation is easy, Use a Socket to tap the new ones back in. Or take wheel and new bearings to most any bike shop, 15 min job. Sombody had a Standard Bearing replacement number, but I don't have the Reference. Should be able to order at any auto parts store. Sombody should pop up with the Bearing Ref: number
  23. GeorgeS
    Well you have two brake light Switchs, So, if Neither Switch actuates the brake lights, then, the Switches should NOT be the Problem. Voltage comes ---"from "----the " Signal Fuse " so if the Turn Signals work, the fuse should be OK. OK, follow this--- Voltage From, either Switch, Goes INTO the Instrument Panel, and then From the Instrument Panel back to the TWO Bulbs IN Parrallel. So, Its Possible that " BOTH " of the Rear , TWO Element Bulbs are Bad. ( I know, not likley, but possible ) !!!! REPLACE BOTH BULBS, JUST TO BE SURE--- NEXT--- Remove the Passenger Seat, Under the seat, Left side, there Is a LARGE Plug, with About 15 wires going thru it--- ----- The " Yellow/Black " wire, and the " Blue/White " wire's go to the TWO Tail light bulbs, One is the Brake lite voltage, the other is the Tail light voltage. Open this plug, and clean the Pin contacts, ( Get a can of Spray Electrical contact cleaner at most any auto parts dealer ) Carefull check all the wires going thru this plug. The Ground to the two bulbs is Common for Tail, light, and Brake light, so if the Tail lights work, the ground is good. -------------------------------------------------------------- NEXT---- Between the Above mentioned Plug, and the Bulbs----- --------- There is another Pull Apart Plug, With 3 wires thru it. These wires carry the voltage, for Tail, Brake, and the Ground, TOO the two bulbs. I don't know the exact location of this plug. Somplace between the Large Plug under the passenger position, and the Tail light assembly. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Another place to Check-- Remove the Headlight Assembly--- NOW--- Hard to see and get to, but there are TWO plugs going into the Instrument Panel. You might have to Pull out Several of the Relays to get access. Remove these two plugs, and work each of them In and Out several times, as there migh be Corroded connections on the Wires Carrying the Brake light Voltage. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, if All Else Fails-- Buy some #16 or #18 wire, Tap into the Ouput of the Brake Light Switch, at the Right handlebar, ( should be the " Y " Yellow Wire ) and Run the wire Back to the Two Bulb assemblies, and Tap into them there. So you need about 8 feet of wire. You will need a volt meter to Identify which of the Two wire s to tap into, The one with voltage, is the Tail, you want the other one. You will be bypassing the Inst panel, and the Red Light will be On, But the Brake light will work. This is a tempory fix. ---- IF, the problem, is INSIDE of the Instrument Panel!! ( which it might be ) then Running the Bypass would be the only Quick Fix !!!! Good luck
  24. GeorgeS
    3 Times the Cranking Amps--- ( it will spin your motor, ) No Fluid to mess with---- 12.8 Volts, instead of 12 volts. They last longer. ------ If you actually think that battery is 9 years old, Quite Wasting Electricity Trying to Re-Charge it !!!! You can order the PC-680 on E-Bay for about $85 bucks. Dealers ask about $120. I have 3 of them now, all over 2 years old, and ZERO Problems ( more then one bike )
  25. GeorgeS
    Fuel Tank--- About the only space would be the passenger seat area, if you went with a single saddle. Also, the area under the Trunk, where the Air Pump is located, if you removed all that stuff, I suppose you could fabricate a tank to fit in that space. Then, go with a shrader valve on the Rear Shock, and use a hand pump to put Air into the rear shock. As to the Lft Front Brake, working with the Rear. I think that if you Rebuild the System, and have it working well, you will like it after some time. I have heard that the Yamaha R-1 or R-6 Calipers could be used. ( not sure if this will work on the 83,84,85 models.) Also, it might be possible to Install an 86 to 93 Front Suspension, which has larger front Rotors, and 4 Piston Calipers, thus better Brakeing. This also, gives you the Upgraded Anti Dive System, Which is Electrically operated, Not Hydralic. Front Wheel Size: A wider tire, will make low speed handling " Worse " at least on the 2nd gen models, many folks replace the Wider front Tire, with narrower size, to improve low speed handling. What your Front end needs, is the, Progressive Suspension Springs, and the Stronger Fork Brace. ( ie. the SuperBrace ) If your bike is over 50K, and still has original Fork Springs, They are worn out !!!
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