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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. Put a good dose of Sea Foam in gas, open drains on carb bowls on at a time, let the fuel pump run some gas thru each bowl. Try to get some run time on the engine. Give it a few days for the Sea Foam to chemicaly clean things out. This might solve the problem. Check your Throtte Pull cable, make sure there is about 1/16 inch of slack, with the throttle at full closed. ( If not, back out the main Idle Adjust Knob -- lft Fwd carb -- check cable for some slack, now bring the Idle adjust knob back to just makeing contact with the Linkage assembly ) Try to run the engine , see what you have. Now its time to Start the Sync proceedure useing the 3 Sync Screws. DO NOT CONFUSE THE 3 SYNC SCREWS, WITH THE MAIN IDLE ADJUST KNOB The Idle knob, is Under the Lft Fwd carb, Might be hard to see, I know it is on the 1st gens. There is a good photo of the entire Linkage assembly in the Service manual, chap 2 I believe. This will identify all the adjustments.
  2. If by chance you are interested in the " Left Coast " Houseing in Phonix is now at Record low prices !!! However, its to Hot there !! But if you like Hot ! might be worth a look
  3. The Easy Fix, is A New Set of Clutch Springs, and a new Gasket for the cover. Don't cost much, takes about 1 hour to do the replacement, easy to do. Rule of thumb is the Plates Do Not Wear Out--- Most will agree on that. If you ride double, and pull a trailer, you might want to look into the Barnett Pressure Plate upgrade. Also, some folks say the V-Max Springs are Stronger, and work better, Ask for some opinions on that point if you are interested, I'm not sure on the details of that one. But have heard it mentioned.
  4. Items to check : 1. The Primary windings, ( disconect the 2 wire plug, read across the pins ) The Resistance should Read 3.8 OHM, + or - a couple of ohms, Use the Lowest Scale on you Ohm meter. 2. The pick up coils. See the Service Manual, Its avialable for download on this website if you do not have one. Or Look up the Testing proceedure for takeing Resistance readings " Thru " the Pickup Coils. You can take the readings From one of the two Plugs that goes to the TCI. I believe its in chapter 7 in the service manual. Also, you might just have moisture Inside the TCI, many of us have fixed this problem by putting the TCI into an Oven, at about 105 to 110 deg. F. for about 2 hours to dry out the moisture. Also, check to Make sure you are getting 12 Volts " TO " the primary windings. ( on all 4 coils ) The Ground, is Switched in the Black box, this is the signal that fires each plug. Also, Carefully Follow, the Cable, " From " the 6 pin plug of the TCI, all the way inch by inch to the point where it Enters the Left Side Forward Enging cover. Its possible the cable might be damaged. (( Not high probability, however its possible )) Check closley Under, the left side Rear Transmission Case cover. There are several cables running below this cover, they are held into position by a Metal, Clamp affair. If all else fails, check here for possible wireing damage. Also, this cable run ( ie. TCI, to the pickup coils ) might have a pull apart connector. ( I'm not sure on the 2nd gens, 1st gens do have this ) If you have this Inline 5 wire plug, find it. Clean it, Use Ohm Meter on it, make sure all 5 pull apart pins are makeing Good Contact, And the Resistance reading thru the plug is Zero Ohms, ( THRU ) the Plug on all 5 wires. Any High Resistance connection thru this plug will screw up the Ignition fireing. ---- But as I said, I'm not sure if the 2nd gens have this plug. On the 1st Gens, this plug has been a Notorious Source Of IGNNITION PROBLEMS !!!!! -----Also, Use CRC 2-26 Electrical Contact Cleaner, on any and ALL Pull Apart plugs involved in the Ignition System. -----Use it on your RUN-STOP switch !!! -----Check you Ignition Fuse, Clean the fuse holder contacts, make sure its makeing good contact. ----- Take a Resistance Reading " Thru " your Ignition Switch, ( The Key Switch ) itself. Read thru the main On- Off contacts. checking for Any Resistance Above ZERO ohms, ( ie. a dead short ) WHY-- ??? These Ignition Switches are Notorious for developing High Resistance connection Across the On- Off Contacts. Fix ??? -- You can remove the Switch, and dissassemble it, and Clean up the contacts, and apply, Dialectric Greese, This seems to fix them. --------- Check the 2nd gen Maint. Library here. Sombody posted an article as to how to Dissassemble the Switch, and repair it. If you can't find the article, make a posting, and Ask, Sombody will get you the Web Link !!!!! OK, I have gone overboard here, but just trying to cover all the bases' as to what --- Might --- be your problem. Sorry to be so long winded !! ---- Good luck!! Let me know what you find, will do my best to help if I can. You will need a good Digital Volt/Ohm meter, if you don't have one, spend about $50 for a decent quality meter. It a great tool to have, !!!!!!!!
  5. Just makeing sure you " Charged it " !!! C U there, ( new tire, oil change , and wax job today ) Looking good so far.
  6. Did you " Charge " the New Battery ??
  7. So, take the Long way to the Beer Garden, and get a six pack ( or a bottle of milk ) and then get lost for awhile on the way home !! -------- By then you should know !!!!! Right ?
  8. Set of 3/8 drive Sockets. and Ratchet handle. Use 18MM Deep Socket with 1 inch extension for removeing plugs. ( better then the Junk in the tool kit ) I would add a set of 1/4 drive metric , ( get one of those Ratchet handles that have both a 3/8 and 1/4 drive fitting. ) Be sure to have 1 Box wrench that fits the Axel Nuts. As to the Wrenches, I would consider the New style Box wrenches that have the Box typ on one end, and the Ratcheting on the other end.
  9. My buddy in high school, had one. I had a Harley Hummer, --- The Cushman was faster then the Hummer !! Believe it or not---
  10. Ok thanks, for that, then I assume the " Lowest Aspect Ratio" " and the Highest Quality " tire offered by whatever mfg. has that size. Price would be no object. However I'm still thinking, there would be differences in preformance, between different MFG. tires. Also, I suppose the Tread Design, could have some effect on performance also.
  11. I have an 89, can't mount one, so this is just an observers opinion. However I am very interested in the subject. After reading thru this thread for the last couple of weeks, ( Unless I missed it ) I have not seen any detailed info as to Which Brands are avialable in the correct size, ( ie. how many brands make the size ? ) and then we get into the Range of different quality, tires, and Types of caseings, and how many ply's, and how thick does each manufacture build their side walls ????? etc etc etc ( If we had all this info, we could run this thread out for another 6 months ) So what am I asking here? 1. Which Specific, Brands, and models of tires have members tried. ? 2. What specific type of construction were the tires that folks are reporting on ? 3. Were they Rayon cord , Nylon cord , Belted, or Steel Belted Radial???? ( how many different types are there ?? who's the tire salesman out there ?? ) The question then must be posed !!! Which of all these Different types of " CT's " would be best to use on a motorcyle ?? Are some good, and some very bad ??? ----
  12. When the gauge gets down to 1/4 tank, stop at the Next Gas Station you see. Its time for a Pit Stop anyway !!
  13. OK, went to Ram Mount web site, and figured it out. Parts ordered. If anybody interested, Radio shack is selling Refurbished Garmin C 330, units for $119.99. I realize this is a bit risky however, Radio Shack usually takes back anything I have ever bought there that was bad. This is a discontinued Garmin Model. So I guess its a close out price. Anyway, for that price figured its worth the risk. Not the best of GPS units, but should be good enough for what I need. Ram mount came out to about $40.00.
  14. Question: I just ordered a Garmin C330, GPS --- Need information as to Which Mounting system is the best to go with ?? for the 1st Gen. Any Opinions ??? I'm all Ears for once !!
  15. Consider installing a " Bosh " Relay. Use the existing 12 V wires to supply the 12v control voltage to the new relay. Horn button supplys a ground to the New relay. Install a New In line fuse to supply the main 12 volts to the Main relay contacts and then to the Two horns. Use #16 stranded wire, for the New wireing. Will work much better.
  16. If you use Synthectic brake fluid, or DOT-4, you don't have to worry about Moisture. However, I can't say if leaveing out the Rubber thing will really make any difference. I use Valvoline Synthectic Brake fluid in Everything, and have for years. No more DOT - 3 for me
  17. Well, if I buy a new bike for around $15k, its going to cost me another 9 percent Sales Tax in Wa. State. Thats about $1350 I don't think it so much the price, I think the word is out on that big 90 some HP, fantastic V-4 Engine. And there just " Ain't " that many of them around anymore !!!
  18. OK, the Electrical " Block Diagrams " Show the " Br " wire going " To " the Plug which is the Output plug of the Regulator. I checked this plug, on my 89 ( just now ) It has the Br wire from the Bikes Electrical system, going to that side of the Plug. However, there is NO Br wire, from to the Plug to the Regulator, ie. no Br wire coming out of the Regulator --- What is the " Br " wire ???? ------ Its the circuit that gets power when you turn the Ignition Key to the " ON " position --- It sends power to the INPUT side of all the fuses on the Main Fuse Block. ---- So what to do, to answer your question ??? ---- Go to the Main Schematic, ( not just a block diagram ) Page 8-41 of service manual, you will see the Br wire going to the Plug, however there is no Br wire from the Plug -- To -- the Regulator. I checked the 83 to 85 Service manual on line here. It only has block diagrams, NO detailed Schematics. --- ( at least could not find it ) Anyway, it does Not make any sence, to Send Power, " FROM " the Ignition On -OFF contacts, Back to the Regulator. ( ie. the Regulator is the Source of the power ) --------- So: Whats the answer to your question ? Well without seeing an Complete Schematic, for an 83 to 85, I can't answer it. The Schematic, and the block diagrams do not concur on this. Check the Detailed schematic for your bike, your 1300, you will see what I mean If sombody has a hard copy of 83 to 85, compare Schematic ( not block diagram ) to the 86 to 93, (1300 models ) . So, now I'm confused Also !!! But you do pose a good Question !!!! Sorry, best I can do--
  19. Thanks for that info, will check into it. The RideOn stuff is pretty expensive, however It does work, also it balances the tires, ( at least thats what they claim ) ?? Also, of note, I have removed both of these Avons, and found that the Ride On stuff does not set up on the inside of the rims, Very Easy to Clean off the Rims. It does not set up hard, Last year I installed a new set of Avons, and put RideOn in both new tires. The front got Punctured by a sharp Rock, which I did not notice until the bike was sitting over Dec. and Jan. in the garage. So apparently, the ride on stuff did its job. I consider it cheap Insurance.
  20. Sounds good !! Ride Safe, as we all say ----- Monitor the Weather Radio !!!!! Rain headed East from the West coast yesterday and today
  21. Well, just floor board it in 2nd gear, if its going to slip, that where it will show up. Or, down shift to 3rd or 4th at highway speed, and floor board it. Thats where mine let go, doing about 65. Cheap fix, is a new set of Springs, and a new gasket for the cover. Some have said the V-Max Stock springs are stronger, but not sure on that. Or the Barnett Pressure plate, to replace the Stock unit.
  22. lots of small ones, is much better then ONE Big one !!!
  23. I removed the Avon today, as not enough tread left for the Calif Trip next month. Will keep it mounted on my spare rim. Ok I installed the New Dunlop E 3 ( MU90B16 ) today. Cleaned up the rim, used Vasoline on new tire and rim, mounting was quite easy with standard hand tools. Removeing the AVON, was not easy !!! I measured the tread on new tire, 5/16 inch at center, and 1/4 at edges of tire. I also measured the caseing thickness, as best I can measure it seems to be 1/2 inch thick, plus the Wearable Tread thickness. The tire Tread is 5 Ply, ( 3 Nylon, and 2 Fiberglass) The tire Sidewall is 3 Ply, Nylon Max loading is 937 lb. at 40 PSI cold. Dunlop sells this in the belted model, and the Radial. ( Radial sizes won't fit 1st Gen) I got the tire from RonAyers.com Greenville N.C. $113.95, which included the UPS to Seattle. So, will start milage tests with this tire. I put in a can of "Ride-ON " and went for a 20 mile test ride, All seems just fine !!! Time will tell. Also, anybody been running these tires on a Gold Wing, or know sombody that does use them on a Wing. ??? Would be interesting to find some Feedback from Wing users of these new E 3 Series Dunlops made for the Goldwings. ?? Or has anybody mounted one on a 2nd Gen ???
  24. Re do the torque on the upper triple tree clamp bolts. where the upper tubes are held in place. Re do the front axel, make sure all bolds for the front end are torqued properly. You might have to add some torque to the Steering head main Nut. 2nd gens are known for the Nut comeing a little loose. You might have to add, maby 5 to 10 degrees of rotation to the main steering head Nut. However tire Pressure is the first thing to check. ( both tires ) Have you been keeping the rear shock Air pressure to the correct setting. ?? I would also consider Draining and refilling the Fork Tubes with the Correct amount of fork oil, --- Just to be sure its correct .
  25. Been averaging about 41 to 42 since it was new. Ride single, do not pull a trailer.
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