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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. Been too long since I opened mine, but I think most front reservoirs have a line on the inside about 1/4" from the top. That's where I usually set them. Bottom line is it needs to be low enough that the rubber bellows doesn't push any out. BTW, clutch should be at minimum level. As the clutch wears the level rises. Opposite of brakes. Don't want it pushing fluid out.
  2. Seems like if they think it will carry a Venture they would think it would carry a Tour Looking at the parts fiche I see that the D404 was not OEM on the Tour in '08. It was 96-00. Looking at the Dunlop fitment guide it appears to me that their recommended tire for all the Tours and Ventures is the Elite 3. On the models where the D404 was original equipment they specify that as the OEM replacement, after they recommend the Elite 3. The Elite 3 has a higher load index than the D404. What I read between the lines is that they agree with Dan - D404 is a poor choice for a heavy tourer.
  3. The piston in the MC needs to move back far enough to leave that bleed off hole open. If it's hanging up occasionally this could be the problem. When mine did it it was because I took too much free play out of the linkage. Piston didn't back off enough to uncover the hole. I doubt this is your problem as I think that would cause them to lock up every time.
  4. Some meters will give funny results reading a diode unless the meter is set to the correct range. If it's got one you should set the meter to the range that has a symbol like this: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTbeomuT59fVo0I6aLRbtlIl_8FpRef4Igcu8ZpeocWRJJrSpqb Then do the test TD'sTD described. Most leds are rated for under 3 volts. If you're not using one rated at 12V you'll cook it unless you have a properly sized resistor in series with it.
  5. The reasoning is that by using the kill switch for routine shutdowns you develop the "muscle memory" to do it automatically in an emergency.
  6. Looking at Dingy's tutorial it appears you are correct. I mistakenly assumed they hadn't changed it.
  7. Already answered in post # 2
  8. 4XY-88196-00-00 CORD, HEAD SET 1 Item #44 in the "Audio Equipment 1" fiche 2004 Royal Star Midnight Venture
  9. If only one side won't stay on it's probably the switch as the canceler circuit is the same for both. If neither side stays on it could be either the canceler or the switch. If you go in the tech library you will find wiring diagrams to aid your diagnosis. Oh heck, HERE IS THE LINK. Pushing in on the button will cancel the signal. First thing to do is make sure you're not pressing in when you release the switch. I just played with my switch and noticed the following: If you slide it to turn signal on (key need not be on) then push straight in you can feel a definite snap as the mechanism releases. If you push in without turning a signal on there is no snap. You might try that on yours and make sure you feel the snap - if not the switch could be gummed up or worn.
  10. Yeah, I agree. I use a trailer that's maybe 12" above ground that tilts and has a winch to haul them up. Still not much fun to load a large bike.
  11. Yamaha calls for a 71 load index on your rear tire. If you're going to ride two up, and aren't particularly svelte, you'll probably be happier with a tire that has a higher load index. The following tires will get you a 77 load index, which is rated for 148 lbs. more than a 71: Kenda Kruz (I run this tire) Metzeler ME880 (lots of people have had trouble with tread separation on this tire) Avon Venom Dunlop Elite III (78 load index) Other than the Kruz these are premium tires and should have higher inflation pressure than Yamaha specified. Check their web sites for their recommendations.
  12. It's amazing how much the vacuum will drop with just one cylinder out. Gotta get them all firing before you can sync it.
  13. I doubt over torquing is causing your problem. Those bolts are pretty soft and would likely snap before you could deform the gasket enough to cause the problem. Assuming the gasket is torn again I'd inspect that area of the cases for any defect/damage that might cause the problem. Other possibility is that it's being damaged going on.
  14. Sounds like a bad ignition switch or a loose connection. Connections at the battery itself are likely culprits. As Yamaman pointed out, the charging system on the car will put out way more current than the regulator/rectifier on the bike can deal with. Jump without the car running. Check electrical connections at the battery before trying to jump it. If you have a poor connection at the battery and get it running the motorcycle alternator can damage things. The system isn't designed to work without the battery damping the voltage and current.
  15. The idea is to give the driver a few sharp strikes - not to hit it hard enough to drive it into the engine. I use a plastic mallet. You need to twist the thing so the body climbs up the ramp and hold it there. Then most of the impact goes into turning - not driving. If you bottom the body of the driver all the impact goes to pushing, not turning.
  16. Actually I believe the way it works is any Yamaha part number of the form mmm-23110-nn-nn is a fork inner. It tells you nothing about what it fits. mmm indicates the first model the part was used on. Revisions and variants are when nn-nn stops being 00-00.
  17. Interesting timing. I can understand not wanting to screw with it during the busy season but winter is upon us. I can't imagine he gets enough sleds to keep busy until March........
  18. Looks like it's not you: Dish Suffers Major Outage
  19. Biggest problem with them is great boating weather and great riding weather are usually the same day. You need to rent a slip someplace so you can ride the scoot to it:banana:
  20. I agree with Snaggletooth - 55 is a bit slow for 5th gear. 55mph roads I cruise in 4th, will be in 3rd if there are twisties where I want sharp throttle response. Getting on the freeway I usually don't get above 4th until going 70 or so.
  21. Front 120/90-18 65H Rear 140/90-16 71H Check bearings when you have the wheel off. It's not necessary to replace them if they're good. You can find the service manual in the tech library.
  22. We've got the full face version of that set. Like the sound and frequently get compliments on how good it sounds over the CB. You do need to dig a hole in the foam of the chin bar for the mic. The mic is large enough it's difficult to find a place deep enough that you don't run into a vent passage. This is the major drawback to this set IMO. On my wife's first helmet I had the mic too low in the chin bar and it picked up some wind noise. A chin curtain didn't help much. When she upgraded last year I put it higher in the bar and now it's very quiet. As saddlebum said, you want it at the corner of the mouth. If you put it straight forward you'll introduce pops and rumbles from the air coming out your mouth when you talk.
  23. There are great big wide open passages from the crankcase to the top of the heads for the cam chains to pass through. Very unlikely you're ending up with all your oil on top. More likely a flaky switch a worn wire that is grounding intermittently.
  24. Looks just like the one from my 89.
  25. You don't need to remove the ear pieces of the headsets. If you plug the headset in and switch the audio system to speaker the ear pieces are turned off. The mic will still transmit for the CB (the intercom only works with the headset speakers). You only need to cut them off if you don't want them in the helmet.
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