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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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1999 RSV with 57,000 miles When I put my blinkers on or when I push to cancel, switch feels kind of mushy, and sticks a bit. Can I just shoot some lube in there? Or is that a bad idea? If I do have to take it apart to clean it, what do I need to watch out for? I can already imagine some little spring flying out and hiding in a far corner of the garage. Thanks, Ross
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Venture owner. While my 08 RSV was in the shop getting the ignition switch replaced, I traded it on a 2007 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic. My Uncle, who is a huge HD fan, talked me into going by the local HD dealership and ride one. So I did. And I was hooked. I wasn't even thinking about a HD. A GW, yes, but a HD, no. But I'm glad I did. The handling was superb, the ergonomics are great and it feels like a very well built machine. Fuel injection is great. Switch on and press the start button. And guess what, it has a CD player. My RSV had 1 mile on the odometer when I bought it and had nearly 40,000 when I traded. I enjoyed every mile I put on it and plan on doing the same with this HD. I don't plan on abandoning this web site though. I enjoy the forum, met too many good people and plan on making some more "meet and eats". Glenn
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My wife bought me a couple of Sidewinderz LED light strips for Christmas for mounting under the tank to light up the engine, but there is no controller or switch of any kind - just the light strips with about 16" of wire on the end of each one. Does anyone have a recommendation as to a simple light switch kit I should get for these? Electrical is not my strong suit, so I'm fumbling with this a little. I did find this controller on the CruiserCustomizing.com web site, but still not sure it's what I need. http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?Category_ID=49&manufacturer_ID=563&product_ID=32058&sblid_name=Street_FX_Electropods_L_E_D_Light_Kit_Power_Distribution_Module&model_id=0
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Anyone have any experience with the XT 225? Particulary interested in any information on electrical issues and/or ignition switch problems. Thanks in advance
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2001 RSV with 55k miles. Went to start my bike and didn't wait for the 'clicking' fuel pump? to stop before I pressed the starter button. I quickly let off of the starter switch - the bike didn't have enough time to start but did briefly crank. I then set the ignition switch to off, then on, and no power at all; no fuel pump noise, no lights, no radio, nothing. Same thing after numerous attempts. What I have done: All fuses including the main checked and ok. Even replaced some including main. Battery terminals clean and wires secure. Battery checked and voltage is fine. Wires clean and secure to the starter relay. Replaced the ignition main switch with a new one because it was showing signs wear. Still no power when the ignition switch is set to on or acc. What else should I check?
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On the 1st gen instrument cluster there is a reed switch mounted above the speedometer cable input. This reed switch senses the turning of the front wheel and outputs a signal to the cruise control & turn signal cancel circuit. Picture attached below. Does anyone know if this reed switch pulses 1 time per revolution of the speedometer cable or a different number? I don't have a spare cluster head to check for this, and don't want to dig into the one on the bike. I am working on a digital circuit to replace the flasher/hazard relays and the turn signal cancel circuit. I will use the count output by this reed switch to determine the distance the bike has traveled and use this input to cancel the turn signals at some distance traveled point. I know the front wheel circumference and the number of revolutions the cable makes per wheel rotation. With this info and knowing the number of times per cable revolution the reed switch pulses, I can calculate distance traveled. I am going to replace the bulb in the rear turn signal housing with 15 LED's arranged in a pattern that can produce five independent arrows circuits of 3 LED's each. Second picture below. These five arrow patterns will be sequenced to give the appearance of a moving banner in the direction of the turn. At this point I plan to light first the inboard arrow, then at about 1/5 second intervals light the next arrow until all five arrows are lit, then turn off the first arrow, then each of the other arrows at the same 1/5 second interval, until all are off. This will give a full sequence every 2 seconds. This sequencing will be repeated as long as the turn signal switch request is on, or the self timer cancels signals. Also, there will be a brake light circuit that will activate all the LED's steady in both turn signals when the brake is activated. If a left or right turn signal or hazards are activated, the brake light for the corresponding side in the turn signal housing, or both in case of hazards, will be deactivated allowing the side to flash. Center brake light will function as it does now. If I have room in the turn signal housing, I will also mount lower wattage LED's for tail light function. I have an analog (relay) circuit designed that will do the sequencing and brake functions using the existing outputs from the turn, hazard & brake switches. I will convert that design to a digital version which will be fairly compact and low power consumption. I am estimating about the size of a cigarette pack. This controller will also control front signals and dash indicators without the sequencing or brake light features. Gary -
When I got to work last night I parked in the garage as normal. Several hours later I came in off the road and noticed the smell of gas. I look around my 2002 RSV and noticed a small wet spot under the left side. Well I thought it must have came from one of the overflow tubes. I decided to start her up. When I hit the start switch it turned over about three times and then just stopped!!! I hit the start switch a few more times and just got a thud. The third time I held it longer and it turned over and started shooting gas out the left side exhaust. It seem to run ok. Hope I make it home. Guess I should do an oil change in case some gas got purged passed the rings down into the crank case. Has anyone had this happen before?
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I have determined by testing and using a jumper wire that my 83 VR has a bad wire from the switch to the first junction behind the headlight. Running a second wire is no big deal but wanting to do a good job of it, how do you get the switch out of the casting for the master cylinder/lever. I have taken the "bracket" loose and everything is good to pull the little section of old wires out but it appears that the wires do not unplug from the switch and I need to get the swith out to have a better look (switch shows as part number four on the parts breakdown and is part number 26H-83980-00-00 - sells for about $35.00) Any help? Steve Neal -
Ok took the RSTD out on the interstate for the first time today. I went to put on the cruise and when I pushed the switch on it did not come on. it did come on when I pushed it all they way up but not when I just push it to on and it clicked. is it normal to have to push switch all the way to the top of the switch travel before the cruise comes on? Thanks for the help
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Well now I know. Thanks to Freebird, I was looking at the passing lamp factory installation instructions in the tech library to find out how to adjust the aiming of the lamps. Who would have guessed that the adjustment CAN NOT be made from outside the lamps? You have to go inside, make an adjustment, put it back together and check it, then if it's not right, go through it again! Darn poor design, but at least now I know. Well, while I was looking through the instructions I found that there is a switch in the wiring circuit! I'm the 2nd owner, the PO had the lamps installed by his dealer. I thought that the lamps came on with the ignition switch, no other option. That little push button switch down by the 12V outlet is so well hidden I would never have found it without having access to the information in the instruction manual. A big THANK YOU to the Freebird, you're the man! -
Got on the bike yesterday, turned the key, and the engine would crank but not start. After turning the key on and off a couple of times, it finally started. While riding to lunch, the bike just shut down in the middle of the street. Played with the switches again and eventually it started again. I got it home and noticed that I wasn't hearing the gas pump clicking when I turned it on. Tested the pump and it is great. At one point while it was running, I accidently bumped the ignition key and the bike died but the lights stayed on. That is when I noticed a little play in the key. Is it safe to assume that I need a new main switch? Here are the two main questions....Is there a way to get the switch off without taking the radiator off? And...Why would the engine crank but not start? (I'm hoping that I don't have another problem.) Thanks in advance for any and all help!
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The past couple of days my turn signals would sometimes work when the button was pushed left or right, other times it wouldn't work but if I toyed with the switch a few times they usually would work. Today riding home from work, they wouldn't work and nothing I did could get either one to flash. When I got home, I killed the engine with the kill switch and with the ignition switch still on. When the motor stopped running, I could hear a light buzzing noise somewhere near the front of the bike - at first I thought the fan might be running but it wasn't. It took me a minute to figure out that it's related to the turn signals. When I push down on the turn-signal switch or move it to center, the buzzing stops. When I push it left or right for one of the turn signals, the buzzing starts again but no turn signal. Slice the button the other way a little and the buzzing stops again. I guess it's more like a fast repeating click than a buzz. What could be causing the noise and the turn signal problem ?
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Cruise Control Not Working Properly
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
05 RSTD cruise control will not stay on. Just started on the last ride it will stay on for about 3 miles then shuts down, I reset the switch and it will do the same not sure were to start. -
On the MKII's trunk light, is it turned on with a mercury switch or is there a momentary switch that turns on the light when the trunk is opened? I noticed the brackets on the left hand side hinge that lead me to believe it would be a momentary switch. Would anybody happen to have an extra one they want to part with? Thanks, Bill
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Where does it plug in at??? Under the tank or somewheres else?? I ask because my brake light is stuck on, I disconnected the foot switch and it stayed on so it pretty much narrowed it down to the front.
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Cruzin down a dark country road and I hit the high beam and the headlight simply goes off. Dang it gets real dark and scary at 60 MPH and no lights with road construction all around. The first thought that entered my mind was all of the discussions about HID failures. My first reflex action is that if I just did something and did not like the result, first thing is to undo it. So I switched back to low beam the light flickered a couple of times but did not come back on. By now I am down to about 30 MPH and still hard on the brakes. While still breaking I wiggled the hi/lo switch and the headlight came back to life just as I was coming to a stop. So as long as I was stopped any how I did some quickie diagnostics, switching to hi would still cause the light to turn off, jiggling the switch I could get it to come on in hi, switching to lo would make the light go out, jiggling the switch I could get it to go back on. So I got it on in lo and hotfooted it back home, praying that a bump in the road would not make it go out again. So I guess that this weekend I get to tear the switch apart and hope that it is just a mater of cleaning and lubing the contacts. It was NOT the HIDs fault it was the bike that told it to turn off. I guess that I will be adding some driving lights so that if the big light ever goes out again, I will not be left in the dark, It could have been real bad had this happened on a curve instead of a straight. -
There just has to be an Award for Dumb,,,,,, Let me set this up a little. I just finished converting my 01 RSV to a Trike, and did a total repaint, which means that I had it down to the frame, and chassis for a month. OK did all of the thought needed maintenance including breaking the Oil Pan ( there has to be an Award for that too,, ) You know Plugs, filters air and fuel check wiring, and add wireing for things I added. Etc: Etc... I read the Tech info section or most of it, and have the manuals all downloaded ( great stuff here ) I noticed that the Ignition Switch connector has the dreaded HOT Spot on one wire. Checked it and re crimped it and put dilectric grease on it. Good to go..... Note here on the hot spot: Here in the Toolies I couldn't find a connector to replace it with, so fixed on it. But it is always in the back of my mind. We have been out on several trips 2- 300 miles here and there, and went camping last week end at one of the rallies that we normally attend.. All is well. Getting ready to head out to the Thunder in the Heart of Texas Rally this morning, and rid into town for gas, and work till 3 or so and hopefully head out. Get gas, and hop on to head on in to the computer shop, and What to my surprise,,,, Lights,Radio,every thing, but GoGo,,,Yepp ya got it Want do any thing......... OK I think Crap it happened to me this time, but better here in town than out on the road, but still 7 miles from home, and an easy way to work on it. OK I thinks,, maybe it will start if I get it going down the hill to the hi-way,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, NOPE ,,,,,NADA OK now I am in the middle of the road, and Zip I get a couple of guys to help me get the Trike to the side of the road, and I am thinking,,Ain't this the pits!!!! I have a trailer for just this situation for myself and others, BUT it is too narrow for the RSV Hannigan Trike,,,,, Double Crap!!! All right, I think I know what I need to do that will get me going and back to the house ( Maybe if I remember right from the articles ) Just pull the tank and jumper the connection that should do it.... just like adding the switch right,,, should work. Here I am on the side of the road with limited stock tool kit, and taking a fresh filled up full gas tank off..................... on the side of the road,,,,,, OK I have the seat, gas tank, a few bolts and stuff lying on the shoulder of the road, and a piece of wire trying to jumper the connection. Trying every combinatrion I can see ( both of them,, only two wires ) Nuttin still dead as a Stump.... and I am drawing a little of a crowd a couple of Goat Ropers, a truck driver, and a Sheriff . Now I am thinking I have to get it back to the shop some how. One of the guys there said he had a car hauler with a ramp and would go get it,,, Real nice of him, and headed off to get it. SAVED Sort of, but still stuck it want start still. I start putting it all back together to make it easier to load on a trailer, when he gets back. What a revolting development this is. I get it all back to gather, and as I was putting the rubber cover back on the tank tab on the right side I reached up to grab the handle bar to stand back up, and heard a CLICK!!!!!!! Yepp you guessed it.... I had hit the KILL Switch when I got on to leave the gas station by accident, and didn't know it............. An hour and a half taking it apart, and messing with this and that, and putting it back together ON the side of the road,,,,,,,,, and it was the darn Kill Switch... Where's my sign!!!!!!! Now can the kill switch be disabled so this can't happen again,,,, At least I know you can take a Venture apart on the side of the road... If you just have to...
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Had the bike(98 RoyalStar) out for a few hours every thing seemed fine.The next day went to start the bike and nothing,no lights ,nothing. I looked at the battery and it was a little wet like it was leaking.I bought a new battery charged it up and still nothing.I've been searching around a little and was thinking May be some thing fell off the switch or some thing dumb.checked the ignition fuse,looks ok.I did not check the Main fuse,I saw that looking around the forum,I guess the location for that is behind the cover at the left passenger foot rest?Is that some thing I can tell is cooked by looking at it? Is there some other common thing that causes this I should be looking at? Thanks jim
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I've searched and cant really find anything on my problem, usually people have the problem that the brake light wont come on.... my issue is it wont go off. I tried doing some trouble shooting and I unplugged the foot brake switch with no avail so its looking like its the upper switch. I took the upper off and it seems to be moving freely, if I knew where it plugged in at I would unplug it to see if the light went off. So.... anyone know where it plugs in or have any idea what it could be???? Almost forgot... 2006 RSTD with 30k miles.
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Oh Big Family on the Internet, Was on the American Legion Legacy Run from Indianapolis when my bike decided not to start. The shop hasn't come up with a solution yet after telling me it is probably the ignition switch and some "other" electrical issues. They also told me they can't locate a switch in America and aren't able to order one. They looked at a switch from a 96 but claim it is totally different and the wires are not compatible. I asked them to install a way to bypass the switch but that didn't work either (lights won't come on, no starter) The bike is still in Indianapolis at the shop, the Legacy Run is completed (rode with a support vehicle) and I head back to Indy tomorrow. Anybody in the area with knowledge about where to get a switch and know how to correct such problems? Unfortunately I don't know how to work on a bike but am willing to learn. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. -
Again, thanks for all the help yesterday. I got the wires spliced and bought a 50amp toggle switch as per the tech. library. Question is, I had grip heaters and already have a toggle switch mounted on the plastic cover over the gas cap. I have no idea how many amps it is? It was mounted to heat my grips and had both a low and high setting. I no longer use the heaters and have removed them, but left the switch. Can I us this toggle switch instead of mounting another? Do I really need a 50 amp switch?
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So many kudos to the very knowledgeable folks here! Had my ignition short out today and between the how too's here in the library, long distance telephone help from Eck and Sleeperhawk, and FLB's quick site pictures and clarification, I got a switch installed to by pass and get the bike going! This site is so full of great members!!!!!!! Thanks all!
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Anyone on that can answer a question about the wiring of an ignition by-pass switch?????????? errrghhhhh 770-624-4569????
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OK I believe i have an ignition switch going bad. I turn on the key and nothing other than the stero works. I keep turning it off and on and finally the dash and everything else comes on 28,000 miles on the bike. Does everyone agree it's the switch and if so where is cheapest place to buy one and can I keep the original lock and key.
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now this was scary this morning.. I had been away visiting family yesterday and had to leave the bike out in the heavy rains overnight.. because I have a dodgy ignition key slot cover, I put electrical tape over the hole where the key goes in to prevent it from flooding.. This morning, I go to the bike and go to start it: Key goes in, turn key, electricals come on as normal and with the bike in neutral, I hit the starter and the engine turns once to what feels like to a full compression then stops.. Another press of the starter button and the bike starts normally, runs normally and all is good. That 'stop at compression' thing happens every once in a while, not sure what causes it or what it means but it doesn't seem to cause any harm.. 10 minutes later I'm leaving and pull into a gas station for a fill up.. This time when I go to start the bike, I get that odd 'cranking over to full compression stop' but now all the electricals are out.. ooops!! Turn the key full to the right, red switch ON, no headlight, no radio, no instrumentation, nothing.. wow, its like the battery got disconnected.. no smell of arching or burnt wires, check the ignition fuse and it's good. huh? Nothing.. I move the bike out of the way of the pumps and try it again.. nothing.. nothing. No juice.. ouch.. I'm 500 km away from home and prolly 5000 kms from a decent Yamaha dealership that could help me out.. I cycle the kick stand a few times, remembering something in an article about this.. not sure though.. I wait 10 minutes while chatting with someone about how nice my 'harley' looks etc.. huh.. And then the bike starts as if nothing was wrong.. Mind you, the radio has to have it's channels reset and the trip odo went to full odo as if the bike had it's battery disconnected. So odd! The bike ran well and well, I decided I had better head for home. Luckily for me I had a spare key on the bike so when I had to do fuel stops, I left the ignition "on" with the key but killed the engine with the red switch, used the spare key to open the gas cap.. I was leery of wanting to turn off the ignition switch with the key in case I could no longer get juice through the system again like it did earlier this morning. When I got home, I shut the bike off via key and turned it back on.. every thing is back to normal as if nothing wrong ever happened this morning.. I've been back out several times this evening to see if I could duplicate the error but nothing.. it's all good.. (knock on wood).. So the question is "what happened this morning" ?? Will it happen again? I'm worried this is going to develop into an intermittent problem like my fuel pump did to me last summer.. it would fail every so often but never enough to be properly diagnosed until it finally died the big death.. I'm thinking I will soon need to replace the whole ignition switch (where the key goes in) since the spring loaded slot cover doesn't slide over anymore.. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on what happened or what I should do? $136 for a new switch..
