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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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I'm about to put my new-2-me 2000 RSV away for the winter and wanted to know if there was anything in particular you guys do when winterizing your scooters? I plan on taking the battery into the house, and running the carbs dry, draining the bowls, Is there anything else I should be watching for? Do I need to remove the gas tank to get at the carb drain plugs? Oh yes, I put a good wallop of Fuel conditioner into the tank and ran it for a good 10 minutes so the fuel hit the carbs. Cheers, D.W.
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Been playing with ingitech software. Went for ride around the block to test my latest load. At stop sign I thought to myself "awful rich" due to the gas I could smell, "wonder how my ignition advance changes caused it to be so rich?" (TPS ingitech is running great!) Headed home and pulled into garage, started to back into my park spot, and slipped in pool of gas-it was pouring out right in front or rear tire. Key off and finished parking. Pulled the overflow lines out where I could identify which one was leaking, and identified #4 when pump on. Turned pump off, and rapped on #4 diaphram cover. After big gush of fuel (primed pressure?), fuel stopped. Turned pump back on and still no leak. I may be alright now, possible piece of dirt was stopping float needle I got cleared when rapping on carb, but now leary to take for ride. Any other suggestions to ensure my float is ok now? BTW, heavy dose seafoam in this tank of gas. Been doing it about every 4th tank. Messed up my MPG check:bang head:
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I have a friend here in Perth looking for a fuel tank for a 1990 Kawasaki Zephyr 550......... Can anyone tell me the best places to look in the states?????
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Does anyone have a part number for Fuel Filter Options at local auto parts stores? Thanks for any replies.
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So I'm not sure if mine does not work but I have never seen it. I have got to reserve and drove 40 miles and the fuel gauge shows 1 bar and then none but no light?????? I am happy to say the I have been getting around 45-47 mpg
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A while back, I had an issue with the bike not running. I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump, but turned out to be bad gas and plugged filter/line. Once again, the bike died on me less than a mile after leaving the house. This time it acted like it was hitting only 2 or 3 cyls. Check the pump, good. Checked the filter, good. Drained 1 qt of fuel from tank with reserve selected, good. My conclusion is it is either something in the tank occasionally blocking the fuel flow thru the petcock or a clogged jet. This last time it died, I could start it back up and it would run very rough. After about 5 minutes, it was like nothing was wrong. Tank and a half of fuel and a can of SeaFoam, it is running well. Let's keep our fingers crossed.
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So... I was riding home ('08 with 30k miles) from work this evening... and out of the blue, It acts like it's running out of fuel. Spitting and sputtering and finally just died. I took off the fuel cap and peeked in the tank... PLENTY of gas. Cycled the key... heard the fuel pump running... but it was running "slowly".... after several attempts and key cycles.... she fired up and ran fine the rest of the way home..... anybody have any Ideas???? I checked the battery connections and they were tight. Not sure what else to check...especially since it runs FINE now...... I know it's under warrenty.... but if I bring it in... they won't find anything since it's running fine now.....
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what are the recommendations for spare fuel pump? thinking about taking a trip. what other spare parts would you recommend? -
I’m still trying to get my ’83 VR running. I feel like I’m making some progress but I’m still far from having it going. It seems like it is starving for gas. I have cleaned the carbs as well as I can. It will start and run for a few seconds and then dies. It will start again and die again. It sounds just like it is running out of gas. I have new gas lines and new filter going to the inlet side of the fuel pump. I still have the original line going from the outlet side to the carbs. I suspected that I may have an obstruction in the line so I removed it and blew air through it. It seemed to be clear. I put it back on the fuel pump and turned the key on to see how much fuel was being pumped. Since there was no pressure on the line I expected the pump to run continuously but it only pumped for a second and cut off. Each time I would turn the key on, it would just pump for about a second. Is this normal?
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I've noticed that when I'm low on fuel (1-2 gallons), the engine picks up a vibration at different rpm ranges, similar to the carbs being out of sync. When I fuel up it goes away and runs very smooth. Could it be vent related? Thanks in advance. The following has been done: Fuel filter replaced this spring. New plugs (pulled the tank). Sea foam treatment. -
Fuel pump died yesterday so did a change out today. I went with the Mr. Gasket 42S model and the NAPA 3011 fuel filter. Was a very easy job and cost less than $60 total. WAY better than the $213 price I found on line. Only caveat I can give is to make sure you get the 90 degree, 45 Degree and the nipple and do not use the filter that comes with the pump. There is absolutely no way it will fit in there otherwise. Set it up like this picture I cut the line from the original pump and just connected it to the new wires just to keep it cleaned up. I also cut down the line from the filter to take the bend out and. I did not fasten down the new pump as it all tucked in fine just under the original mounting bracket.
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My RSTD has an odor of gasoline almost all of the time. I do not see any leaks at all. It runs perfect. Is there a vent tube or something I should check? When moving it isn't noticable at all, but at traffic lights stopped or even sitting in my garage with the fuel cock closed, it is still a pretty strong gas odor. Ideas?
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the bumble bee was not running right and vgoose and carbon one helped it was a bad fuel pump and i replaced it with a a/m for 45 after reading threads on best price for a fuel pump the stealer want 299.00 for one bumble bee lexington sc 1999 rsv
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Yesterday, I road across the Nevada Desert on HWY 50 on my Venture. As I neared the Utah boarder, temps rose to almost 110 degrees. While I showed that I still had fuel in the tank and I had not yet switched to reserve, I began to feel those momentary surges and sputters which typically occur right before running out of gas. So, I backed-off on my speed and somewhat "drafted" behind a truck for the last 25 miles before I reached a gas station. After filling-up and getting back on the highway, I again began to feel similar surges and sputters occasionally as I attempted to reach speed. This time however, I knew full well that I had plenty of fuel, so that couldn't be it. Then, I began to think that perhaps the in-line fuel filter I installed some time ago might need to be changed. After a little while the temperature dropped down to the upper 90s and my fuel feed issue seemed to disappear over the last 100 miles. So, was it probably a heat-related issue in the carburetors or more likely the fuel filter? If it was the heat which was affecting the performance, what's the best way to deal with it when stuck in the heat? And, if it is the heat which is causing the problem, what exactly is happening? Anyway, we arrived safe and sound, albeit a little bit on the crispy side. Thanks guys and Be Safe! Pete & Sandy
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I was going to post this in reply to a members fuel problems, but decided to start a new thread so it could be located later for reference. Here is a bunch of pictures I took of a 1st gen fuel pump a week ago just for S&G's. The RSV is probably similar, but I don't know. Just offering this as maybe some help in understanding the mysterious fuel pump. It is not a really technical description below, but the basic operation. In a nutshell, the pump operates by energizing a coil and pulling the plunger towards the contact end. This pushes in the contact assembly on the other end, breaking the current path to the coil. The plunger returns to rest position, contact closes & cycle repeats. When the plunger pulls towards the contact, it pulls gas in from the tank into the pump cavity via a one way valve. On the Return stroke the fuel is pushed out another valve towards the carbs. This happens until 1 of 2 things occur, first is pump builds up pressure in line and and the plunger does not return forward to complete pump stroke. 2nd is the fuel pump circuit times out after 4 seconds of not sensing motor running and cuts off current to pump. On pump end there are two diaphragm type valves, one allows fuel to be pulled in to pump cavity, but not pushed back out. Other allows fuel to be pushed out towards carbs, but not flow back into carbs. Not my best tech write up. Gary
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HI all. A buddy i ride with has an 07 V Star Classic 1100 and is having a problem. After about 90 - 100 miles of riding or when it gets to about a half tank of fuel the bike loses power like its starving for fuel. If he stops and fuels up the problem goes away that is until the fuel runs down to about half tank. So what do you think?? I had him try seafoam because seafoam cures all but with no luck. Thanks. Bill
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I had rust issues with my gas tank a couple years back so I took the dive and tore the bike down and did a reseal using the Caswell epoxy treatment. That was a new product for me to use and I wondered about the long term results. I've had some failures before with other products. Every spring I pull the sending unit to inspect the tank and it has always looked fine. It's like a Thermos bottle inside with the epoxy. But I figured the true test would be the fuel filter itself. So while I was changing plugs the other day I changed the fuel filter. So with a bit over 12,000 miles since the last filter change I was happy for find NO sediment in the filter at all. Nada. That was a first. So if anyone is considering treating their fuel tank........ Go for it. The long term benefits are worth it. Not a single carb issue since the treatment. It's worth the time, effort and money to get it over and done with. Mike
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With all the good info I have read on this site I thought i would chime in with a tip. First of all the fuel filter is difficult but not impossible to remove but i didnt want to repeat that madness everytime i needed to change it. First of all to remove the filter i used needle nosed pliers,a flat blade screwdriver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet, a phillips bit (from my cordless drill)and a socket to hold the bit. You will also need to visit NAPA and get 3 zip ties and a NAPA 3011 fuel filter, It costs around 3.50 and it is a paper element so it will stop all the bad stuff and it is encased in clear plastic so you wont be guessing if there is any crud in the filter. I removed the sidecovers and shut off the fuel valve and freed the fuel line from the metal strap that holds it in place under the fuel tank. On the other side where the filter is i used the 1/4 ratchet with the bit and i was able to loosen and remove the screw that holds the filter in place. It wasnt easy but with a little dexterity i was able to fit the ratchet between the swingarm and frame with my right hand and hold the head of the ratchet with my left hand to maintain pressure on the screw till it was off. I removed the screw that holds the filter bracket to the frame and removed the bracket and now the bracket has a home in a drawer. Use the needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamps and slide them back on the hose. Use a flatblade screwdriver to pry the fuel line from the filter on both sides and toss that milky colored filter.The beauty of this whole post is a napa 3011 fuel filter will work and is shorter and easily fits in that tight spot and it will not collapse when you are at full throttle. Just clip off the smaller diameter ends of the filter tube and attatch to the fuel lines. Slide the clamps back over and now you have a nice clear filter but the whole thing kind of flops around. Put a zip tie through the hole where the filter clamp screw was and wrap it around the fuel filter. Now you can use the other zip ties to secure the fuel line. I just tied them to the frame and did it so the fuel filter is nice and level. You can put some electrical tape on the fuel line before you zip tie it if you think the zip tie might rub a hole in the fuel line. Dont forget to hook the line back into the metal strap on the other side. Now you can change the filter next time quicker than the guys changing tires on a racecar at a nascar race. Just use a pair of snips to cut the ties, loosen the clamps,replace the filter and reassemble. Put on 3 ties and you are DONE. This filter is close to the diameter of the stock filter so you purists out there can put it back in the clamp if you want. It is not as long as the stock filter but hey i can replace it once a year for 3.50 versus not replacing the filter this year because the stealer wants 20.00 bucks. Good Luck:sun:
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Can anyone point me in the direction to find a fuel tank cover for a 07 tour deluxe. The OEM schmatics dont list it or I cant find it. Will the Venture cover fit.?
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Looking for help. Yesterday I was heading from Wisconsin to Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks. 20 miles down the road my 2005 Venture sputtered like it was running out of gas and left me stranded on the side of the road. Gas tank was full. Kill switch was fine. Plenty of electrical power as I could crank it over but it would not start. My dealership came and trailered the bike back to the shop and the bike starts right up and runs fine. We figure a fuel pump issue and by pass the fuel pump and I'm back on my way to Yellowstone. 20 miles down the road it does the same thing and I'm stranded again. Again the dealership picks me up and when we get back to the shop and the bike runs fine. Other things that I tried: Undid the vent hose thinking vapor lock. There was no pressure from the gas cap. Actualy tried running the bike with the gas cap off. No luck. Plenty of fuel from the petcock. The bike seems to run fine after it sits ( and cools down) for awhile. The dealership and I are out of ideas. Any help???? I can be reached at (608) 576-3117. I hope to catch up with my Yellowstone riders today. Thanks Mike Hickok Chapter 166 Madison, WI
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Just wondering if you need to really turn the fuel cock off after riding (I forget to do it)? Also if the fuel warning light comes on can you move to reserve on the fly while riding? Also manual says to shift from 4th to 5th (O/D) at 31 mph, this seems pretty low to go into O/D gear. Just wondering if most people wait until around 35 - 40 to shift to O/D. Thanks for the help, only had the bike for a few weeks and still getting to know it. Glad I found this site.
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Just relocated the fuel filter on my 96 Royal Star yesterday after reading several posts on this site. It was an easy job and well worth while for future maintenance. The hardest part of the job was the mounting bolt and nut for the Roll-Over Valve that so many described as a PITA. To resolve this I put the bolt through the hole from the back of the metal bracket and put the nut on the front side with some loc-tite and now have a threaded stud that will stay in place. Just put the plastic holder on the bolt and install a lock washer and another nut. This doesn't have any earth-shattering significance but may be a tip that some might find useful. Happy,safe riding Doug
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I am trying to do a search for posts containing the words "fuel filter". I don't want posts containing only the word "fuel" nor do I want posts containing only the word "filter". I want posts containing both words. How do I do this? And, if you're reading this and know the answer to the following, it would save me searching... What fuel filters (in-line, non stock) can I use instead of replacing the stock one (brand & part #)? I recall reading a while back where someone posted this info inclucing pics ... there was a metal one that I'm particularly interested in. My end result will be to install an in-line filter in the line under the seat and eliminate the stock filter. I've read several posts about this but for the life of me I can't find the ONE POST that lists the specific filter I want.
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Two questions, anyone know the dimensions for the fuel hoses? Nice to have bought the right stuff before I ripp it apart...5, 6mm or something really odd? the two breath hoses connected under the airbox, is there a mod that doesn't upset anything that makes things a bit easier regarding assemble? Wouldn't it be possible to connect it differently? 80% of the time of working off the airbox, playing with the carbs and reconnect everything is that airbox hose... regards
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I started my 2006 Tour Deluxe this morning and noticed a really strong gas smell. It turns out that fuel is coming up out of the front left carb and running down to the fairing, then out on the ground. It only does this when running, so I'm not sure if the inlet is stuck open or what may be going on. I've searched here, and tried letting it run out of fuel with the fuel cock set to off, but am not able to do much else. I'm quite incompetant when it comes to locating where these parts actually are inside the carb casing. The carbs were rebuilt by the previous owner about 2 days before I came to pick up the bike. It's ran fine for about 3-4 months now until today. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
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