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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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well not dead, just intermittent. I'd noticed the motor getting a little balky on cold starts. Then it would not run at all unless I rapped on the pump body with a tool, and the plastic end of the pump was getting piping hot. I bypassed the pump and approached the dealer shop guy about the warranty. He said I'd have to bring the bike in and leave it. I rarely do anything like that! Then I remembered seeing an article here about the Mr. Gasket 42S. Thanks to all who contributed to that information. I got the 42S installed pretty easily, and as far as I can tell it pumps fine. I notice it passes fuel even when it is unplugged. That means I'll have to get used to using the petcock. Thanks again to all who took the time to post info and photos. What a treasure this board is!
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My low fuel indicator has stopped working. The light does not come on and the odometer does not switch to the "find a gas station, dummy!" mode. Is this an indicator that the sending unit has gone bad? Anyone had any experience with this? The gauge itself still works.
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I've read a couple of existing posts about fuel gauges, so I think I need to replace the sensor inside the tank. But, let me give a few details and see what y'all think. I have a 99 RSV that has under 1000 miles on it. Was sitting in some garage in pieces and put back together by the person I purchased it from. I replaced the main wiring harness b/c the person who took it apart in the first place did some stupid, nasty stuff to the wiring. Well, once I got it electrically working, and had the carbs rebuilt, there is still this odd fuel level reading issue. I DO get the yellow light telling me my tank is low, but my fuel level never reads anything but a blinking single bar after fill-up. I've pulled apart the connector under the black tank cover and put it back together, giggled it around a bit, and no change. Should I replace the whole piece inside the gas tank (4 screws, rotate it a bunch till it pulls out)? Thanks! - Michael
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Been flying RC Planes for sometime now, Had a break in it for the last 3 years. But as Winter is coming on I am back into it as so I do not go CRAZY for the next 4 or 5 months being stuck inside here in Iowa during the winter. bike is all put away and the modeling begins. My Question is ALL this talk about Sea Foam and I use it faithfully and it's wonderful stuff, why would it not work in my older nitro fuel that has been sitting for a couple years? maybe put an once or so in the gal jug? The older fuel has been indoors all this time. for that do not know our airplane fuel has nitro/methane and a percentage of oil in it. and are used in 2 stroke and Four Stroke model engines. Thanks for your in-put Jeff
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After the past few fillups my fuel gauge never completely registers as full. It stays down by one bar. It may blip up to all bars but only for a few seconds. It seems to trend down O/K as the tank goes empty. I have not checked any connections yet and wonder if it a grounding problem. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Does anyone know how the sending unit works? Any help is always appreciated. Thanks JR -
My brother has a 1997 Royal Star. He got a DUI last year and the bike has been sitting since then. This week he got his license back so we started trying to get the bike running. The battery was toast so we replaced that. Next problem was that when we tried to start it fuel was shooting out the carb drain hoses. After a little research we discovered that the floats were probably stuck and the fuel pump was constantly running and overflowing the carbs. I tried tapping on the carbs to unstick the floats. That got the fuel pump to stop sending fuel spewing out the drain hoses and the bike would even start but it wouldn't run. It would idle very rough and I suspect only on one cylinder. I figured that the carbs were probably too gummed up for the thing to run so we pulled those off and cleaned them. I didn't completely break the carbs down. I took enough of the brackets off that I could remove the float bowls. I removed the float bowls and all the jets and cleaned everything up with spray type carb cleaner. The two carbs on the left were pretty filthy, I imagine because the bike was on the kick stand leaning to that side. Once the carbs were cleaned up and reassembled we put them back on and the bike won't start at all. Anybody got any ideas?
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Well, my poor Venture decided that I had ignored her long enough and won't run properly. Back in spring, my shifter cam had decided that it was time to fail. Since I was short on cash, I parked it and started riding my Maxim. Since I only have space allowed for one bike in the garage, the Venture got the short straw and was left outside under a bike cover. I put Seafoam in the gas and let it run a little. During the summer, I started a few times just to get it running. Finally, a month ago I got the new parts and installed the revised shifter cam in. Problem is, now it only runs with the choke on, and backfires alot. If I try to twist the throttle, it will immediately die. If I play with it as it's dying, I can get it to rev up, and actually get it to move, but as soon as I let off, it dies. I've taken the TCI out, stuck it under a heat lamp for 4 hours (mmmm, toasty) and cleaned the connectors, but still acts the same. I did get my low beam back tho (had been off for a while, bulb is good). It is dim, not full strength, but has done that on occasion since I got it. Don't know if that was related or just coincidence. I've taken the carbs off and cleaned the insides. A couple of the pilot holes appeared to be plugged, now they are all clear. Before I did this, the left front exhaust wouldn't get warm but now all pipes get warm within 1/2 min of idling (with the choke on). The diaphrams have a couple of pinholes, but they had them before and it still ran better than this. I will be replacing them soon. When I turn it on, it sounds like there is a bunch of clicking right by the fuel pump, can't remember if this was normal. Haven't checked on fuel pressure, or the filter, I haven't had much bike time. The bike was running ok before it got parked, not perfectly but still very drivable. I'm open to suggestions, I hope to have it running so I can drive it to it's winter storage area (125 miles away @ my folks place) before the snow flies. Thanks, Andrew
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I'm about to put my new-2-me 2000 RSV away for the winter and wanted to know if there was anything in particular you guys do when winterizing your scooters? I plan on taking the battery into the house, and running the carbs dry, draining the bowls, Is there anything else I should be watching for? Do I need to remove the gas tank to get at the carb drain plugs? Oh yes, I put a good wallop of Fuel conditioner into the tank and ran it for a good 10 minutes so the fuel hit the carbs. Cheers, D.W.
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Been playing with ingitech software. Went for ride around the block to test my latest load. At stop sign I thought to myself "awful rich" due to the gas I could smell, "wonder how my ignition advance changes caused it to be so rich?" (TPS ingitech is running great!) Headed home and pulled into garage, started to back into my park spot, and slipped in pool of gas-it was pouring out right in front or rear tire. Key off and finished parking. Pulled the overflow lines out where I could identify which one was leaking, and identified #4 when pump on. Turned pump off, and rapped on #4 diaphram cover. After big gush of fuel (primed pressure?), fuel stopped. Turned pump back on and still no leak. I may be alright now, possible piece of dirt was stopping float needle I got cleared when rapping on carb, but now leary to take for ride. Any other suggestions to ensure my float is ok now? BTW, heavy dose seafoam in this tank of gas. Been doing it about every 4th tank. Messed up my MPG check:bang head:
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Ok so being that my New2Me 91 VR has only 6700 miles, I decided to drain the gas tank. Being that I had a heck of time doing that with my 89VR at the fuel filter, I decided it would be easier to do it at the Fuel Off/On switch on my 91VR. So I removed the hose clamp and then broke some of the seal from the rubber to the brass fitting, the hose would not come off. So I pried and pried at the hose until it finally came out. Well what came out was the brass fitting from the fuel Off/No switch. With some more digging the brass fitting finally broke loose from the hose. Well on the brass fitting there were some hose particles. Which means that I will need to clip off the end of the hose where the pieces of hose came off. I took some steel wool and got the rubber off the brass fitting. I drained the tank by using a 2 ft long fuel line and put it over the one end of the brass fitting and then gently placed the other end back into the fuel Off/On switch. Then drained the gas into the can. So now I need to get the brass fitting back into the Fuel Off/On switch. Now all the while draining the tank I only pushed and held the brass fitting into the Fuel switch and not a single drop of fuel leaked from the brass fitting. The brass fitting only went in a little bit and has more room to go into the fuel switch. My though is that I should be able to use some permatex gasket sealer (used on fuel sending units) and then press it all the way back into the fuel Off/On switch. So my question is, does my fix seem workable, or is there a better fix?
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I have a friend here in Perth looking for a fuel tank for a 1990 Kawasaki Zephyr 550......... Can anyone tell me the best places to look in the states?????
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Does anyone have a part number for Fuel Filter Options at local auto parts stores? Thanks for any replies.
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I have an 08 RSTD with just over 50k trouble miles free miles until today. It started fine and I pulled out of the driveway and made it maybe a tenth of a mile and it felt like it was running out of gas. I reached down and checked the petcock it was on. Then it finally just quit. It would fire again but then cut out again. I'm gonna check the filter and see if I got bad gas(water). I just changed the airfilters and plugs and synched the carbs. It ran fine coming home from work this morning after filling up which leads me to think it could be the fuel pump. BTW I pushed it the near 1/4 mile back to the house... that was a B. Any thoughts?
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So I'm not sure if mine does not work but I have never seen it. I have got to reserve and drove 40 miles and the fuel gauge shows 1 bar and then none but no light?????? I am happy to say the I have been getting around 45-47 mpg
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A while back, I had an issue with the bike not running. I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump, but turned out to be bad gas and plugged filter/line. Once again, the bike died on me less than a mile after leaving the house. This time it acted like it was hitting only 2 or 3 cyls. Check the pump, good. Checked the filter, good. Drained 1 qt of fuel from tank with reserve selected, good. My conclusion is it is either something in the tank occasionally blocking the fuel flow thru the petcock or a clogged jet. This last time it died, I could start it back up and it would run very rough. After about 5 minutes, it was like nothing was wrong. Tank and a half of fuel and a can of SeaFoam, it is running well. Let's keep our fingers crossed.
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what are the recommendations for spare fuel pump? thinking about taking a trip. what other spare parts would you recommend? -
I’m still trying to get my ’83 VR running. I feel like I’m making some progress but I’m still far from having it going. It seems like it is starving for gas. I have cleaned the carbs as well as I can. It will start and run for a few seconds and then dies. It will start again and die again. It sounds just like it is running out of gas. I have new gas lines and new filter going to the inlet side of the fuel pump. I still have the original line going from the outlet side to the carbs. I suspected that I may have an obstruction in the line so I removed it and blew air through it. It seemed to be clear. I put it back on the fuel pump and turned the key on to see how much fuel was being pumped. Since there was no pressure on the line I expected the pump to run continuously but it only pumped for a second and cut off. Each time I would turn the key on, it would just pump for about a second. Is this normal?
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I've noticed that when I'm low on fuel (1-2 gallons), the engine picks up a vibration at different rpm ranges, similar to the carbs being out of sync. When I fuel up it goes away and runs very smooth. Could it be vent related? Thanks in advance. The following has been done: Fuel filter replaced this spring. New plugs (pulled the tank). Sea foam treatment. -
My RSTD has an odor of gasoline almost all of the time. I do not see any leaks at all. It runs perfect. Is there a vent tube or something I should check? When moving it isn't noticable at all, but at traffic lights stopped or even sitting in my garage with the fuel cock closed, it is still a pretty strong gas odor. Ideas?
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Fuel pump died yesterday so did a change out today. I went with the Mr. Gasket 42S model and the NAPA 3011 fuel filter. Was a very easy job and cost less than $60 total. WAY better than the $213 price I found on line. Only caveat I can give is to make sure you get the 90 degree, 45 Degree and the nipple and do not use the filter that comes with the pump. There is absolutely no way it will fit in there otherwise. Set it up like this picture I cut the line from the original pump and just connected it to the new wires just to keep it cleaned up. I also cut down the line from the filter to take the bend out and. I did not fasten down the new pump as it all tucked in fine just under the original mounting bracket.
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the bumble bee was not running right and vgoose and carbon one helped it was a bad fuel pump and i replaced it with a a/m for 45 after reading threads on best price for a fuel pump the stealer want 299.00 for one bumble bee lexington sc 1999 rsv
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Yesterday, I road across the Nevada Desert on HWY 50 on my Venture. As I neared the Utah boarder, temps rose to almost 110 degrees. While I showed that I still had fuel in the tank and I had not yet switched to reserve, I began to feel those momentary surges and sputters which typically occur right before running out of gas. So, I backed-off on my speed and somewhat "drafted" behind a truck for the last 25 miles before I reached a gas station. After filling-up and getting back on the highway, I again began to feel similar surges and sputters occasionally as I attempted to reach speed. This time however, I knew full well that I had plenty of fuel, so that couldn't be it. Then, I began to think that perhaps the in-line fuel filter I installed some time ago might need to be changed. After a little while the temperature dropped down to the upper 90s and my fuel feed issue seemed to disappear over the last 100 miles. So, was it probably a heat-related issue in the carburetors or more likely the fuel filter? If it was the heat which was affecting the performance, what's the best way to deal with it when stuck in the heat? And, if it is the heat which is causing the problem, what exactly is happening? Anyway, we arrived safe and sound, albeit a little bit on the crispy side. Thanks guys and Be Safe! Pete & Sandy
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I was going to post this in reply to a members fuel problems, but decided to start a new thread so it could be located later for reference. Here is a bunch of pictures I took of a 1st gen fuel pump a week ago just for S&G's. The RSV is probably similar, but I don't know. Just offering this as maybe some help in understanding the mysterious fuel pump. It is not a really technical description below, but the basic operation. In a nutshell, the pump operates by energizing a coil and pulling the plunger towards the contact end. This pushes in the contact assembly on the other end, breaking the current path to the coil. The plunger returns to rest position, contact closes & cycle repeats. When the plunger pulls towards the contact, it pulls gas in from the tank into the pump cavity via a one way valve. On the Return stroke the fuel is pushed out another valve towards the carbs. This happens until 1 of 2 things occur, first is pump builds up pressure in line and and the plunger does not return forward to complete pump stroke. 2nd is the fuel pump circuit times out after 4 seconds of not sensing motor running and cuts off current to pump. On pump end there are two diaphragm type valves, one allows fuel to be pulled in to pump cavity, but not pushed back out. Other allows fuel to be pushed out towards carbs, but not flow back into carbs. Not my best tech write up. Gary
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HI all. A buddy i ride with has an 07 V Star Classic 1100 and is having a problem. After about 90 - 100 miles of riding or when it gets to about a half tank of fuel the bike loses power like its starving for fuel. If he stops and fuels up the problem goes away that is until the fuel runs down to about half tank. So what do you think?? I had him try seafoam because seafoam cures all but with no luck. Thanks. Bill
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I had rust issues with my gas tank a couple years back so I took the dive and tore the bike down and did a reseal using the Caswell epoxy treatment. That was a new product for me to use and I wondered about the long term results. I've had some failures before with other products. Every spring I pull the sending unit to inspect the tank and it has always looked fine. It's like a Thermos bottle inside with the epoxy. But I figured the true test would be the fuel filter itself. So while I was changing plugs the other day I changed the fuel filter. So with a bit over 12,000 miles since the last filter change I was happy for find NO sediment in the filter at all. Nada. That was a first. So if anyone is considering treating their fuel tank........ Go for it. The long term benefits are worth it. Not a single carb issue since the treatment. It's worth the time, effort and money to get it over and done with. Mike
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