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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    I see now. What you are recommending to do is to use a heavier switch and eliminate the relay altogether. Although this would certainly work he would be limited to the light being on or off only through the use of the switch so as to have to flip two switches for on coming traffic and placing this switch in a place convenient for quick use. Dick
  2. rhncue
    He says he is using a relay along with the switch. There should only a slight trickle of amperage going through the switch if the relay is properly installed. I have my relay wired directly to the battery with a fuse in between. I have the switch wired to the high beam on the head light. In this way I have my choice of the running lights only on if I energize the switch and also have my high beams on simultaneously, when I dim my head lights for on coming traffic the running light turn off also. His problem could be a bad switch or relay but it certainly sounds like a connection in the system not being tight and causing an open condition. Dick
  3. rhncue
    The vacuum sensors are identical. That's why the TCIs are different. All that is needed is the carburetor modification and a newer TCI. It should not affect h/p what so ever. Dick
  4. rhncue
    Actually I believe it's just the opposite. I believe the V-Max is a tuned Venture engine since the Venture was around for 2 years before the V-max. Dick
  5. rhncue
    I would have to agree with you on this. I definitely believe it is dirt in the carbs. May be the tank is rusting internally. The idle circuit not only works at Idle but all through the carbs range. The circuit adds to the amount the needle is allowing and to the main jet. Most of the jets in the carbs are very small and will clog easily from any dirt or varnish. This is not true with the main jet. It is very large compared to the others and in 50 years of tinkering with carbs I have never seen a main jet clogged. When under heavy acceleration or wide open throttle the main jet is what is allowing the most fuel to enter. It is for this reason, that I believe, that the carbs, and mainly dirty jets are the cause of this bikes condition. Since he states he has cleaned these carbs a number of times in the past and the problem re occurs there must be something causing it and it is either real old gas or dirt from the tank. I would drain the carb bowls, catching all of the gas and straining through some clean white gauze and see what is in the bowl. Just my 2 cents worth. Dick
  6. rhncue
    When I belonged to the Venturers, before I became disenchanted with them, I took these readings and posted them on their site. I don't remember the readings now but you may be able to go to their site if you are a member and do a search. I used a volt meter and a vacuum pump and wrote down the readings from 0 vacuum through 28" or so. The voltage started out at close to 2 volts and ran to 4 point something steadily changing as the lower pressure was applied up to around 20 " or so and then increased no more. If I get a chance to look for my spare sensor. The readings I got were with the sensor unhooked from anything but a fully charged battery. Dick
  7. rhncue
    Definitely time for a move. Dick
  8. rhncue
    My memory is blurry now but the 83 gets its vacuum to operate the spark advance module at a different place on the carb. If I remember correctly the 83 draws it's vacuum before the butterfly and the rest of the years after the butterfly. Since one side of the butterfly has high vacuum at idle and low when the butterfly is open and if ported on the other side of the butterfly this scenario is reversed. They all use the same power module but the 83 TCI is designed to use the readings from the module to advance at certain vacuums and the later TCIs work just the opposite. This is one of the main differences between 83 and later bikes. the 83 #2 carb has a port for the power line hook up to the module and the rest of the years the port is on the manifold. Dick
  9. rhncue
    I usually ride mine on nicer days all winter long but that isn't enough to keep everything up to snuff as far as the tuning is concerned. I do mine every Spring when I'm getting it ready for a summer of heavier riding. I just do the normal things of running a heavy dose of Sea Foam through it check to make sure the plugs are healthy and check the filter, dancing diaphragms and sync and what other things that need attending to after such a long sleep. Dick
  10. rhncue
    My 83 does that when it gets down to the mid 50s and below. After awhile it loosens up and works correctly. I believe it probably needs some very light weight sewing machine oil on the bearing in the tachs head. I just never think of it when I have the dash apart for other reasons. Dick
  11. rhncue
    Wrong! condensers are used for many things and condensing the spark on the ignition caused by points arcing is just one. The one being referred to here did not have that task. It is used so that you don't here the amplified sound of your spark plugs firing coming out of your speakers, often, even when the radio is turned off. Dick
  12. rhncue
    When using an allen wrench on any bolt that feels tight and may round off I put a little coarse valve grinding compound on the end of the allen wrench. The carbide in the compound will take up some of the clearance between wrench and head and when force is applied the carbide will bite into both the wrench and the head preventing slippage. I did this years ago removing the clutch slave and using a socket type allen wrench and broke the socket but the wrench never slipped or rounded the head. Dick
  13. rhncue
    By using the 83 on a later year bike your spark advance is now backward. When it is supposed to retard it will advance and vice versus. You are taking a chance of burning a hole in one of your pistons. Dick
  14. rhncue
    Test your solenoid both for continuity and for resistance. Disconnect the cable from the solenoid from the starter so that you don't get that resistance. Then use your volt meter to check the voltage across the solenoid by first checking the battery voltage to ground and then checking the voltage from the starter side to ground by running your volt meter from the starter side to ground and the start button engaged. If these readings are the same or very close just test the ohm readings from one side the solenoid to the other. It should read infinity. If there is resistance then the contacts are burned. Dick
  15. rhncue
    There's definitely something wrong somewhere. What I have found that limits the bikes top end is the fairing. It worries me going to fast with so much plastic catching the wind here and there that I'm afraid I will lose control of the bike. I've had mine around 110-120 MPH with plenty of throttle left. Dick
  16. rhncue
    I bought a set from Rick Hafferkamp of http://www.buckeyeperformance.com a few years ago. They consisted of what looked like beer or pop can insulators made of dense foam rubber but longer. They came in various colors and were held in position with either a hose clamp or a nylon tye. Dick
  17. rhncue
    There used to be a fellow up in Canada named Dave Watts who was working on them but I haven't seen any posts from him in years. Sometimes he could fix them and sometimes he couldn't. He said there was some parts in them that he couldn't find a supplier for. There may be others but he is the only one that I know of. He repaired mine just fine but that was back around 2002. Dick
  18. rhncue
    There are three checks to determine if the stator is at fault. With the engine off, the three white wires coming from the stator, when checked against each other should read approx. .4 ohms, not volts. Next, the three white wires should be checked for a ground. If they show a ground that leg is shorted. Last, with the engine running, check each white wire for AC voltage, not DC nor ohms. All three should read about the same AC voltage. If the Stator meets this criteria it should be good and I would be looking at the reg/rec, ign. switch or wiring. Here is a link to a complete trouble shooting chart. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php Dick
  19. rhncue
    I both put on stainless lines and removed the hydraulic dampers on mine around 2002 or 3. It made a very big difference in the way the bike stopped. After that I could never understand why people would want to change their front end for the newer brakes as mine worked so well.This past spring I put on a front end from an 87 with very low miles for the electric dampers. With the newer brakes that I have now, I don't think it stops quite as well. I am using the pads that came with new forks so that could be the difference. I don't know. Dick
  20. rhncue
    I had a problem like yours and I use a mitivac also. When bleeding the master you will not get all of the air out of the line through the normal, established ways. Air gets trapped at the connection of the hose and master cylinder. This must be bled also. I pumped up my master a few times and then, with a rag under the master to catch the fluid, I would crack the banjo bolt bleeding the junction and then tighten again before releasing the lever. This is the high point in the system where air is most likely to collect. Dick
  21. rhncue
    This is on e-bay by the way. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-XVZ1300-XVZ-1300-Venture-rear-brake-rotor-disc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dSIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ252BUAQ252BFICSQ26otnQ3d12Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d54QQ_trksidZp3907Q2em263QQcategoryZ10066QQitemZ370265173939#ht_526wt_732 Dick
  22. rhncue
    I have read on more than one occasion that the ones on e-bay end up leaking. Since the labor is so great and the price of the originals are so low, I don't think I would try saving a couple of dollars. Dick
  23. rhncue
    I don't know if you installed the pads or not but they sell something that looks like silicone gasket sealer just for this. A coat goes onto the back of each pad so that the pad doesn't contact the caliper piston directly. I've used it a few times on auto calipers and it stopped the squeal and chatter. Dick
  24. rhncue
    I believe you must also change the rear sub frame that everything bolts to. Dick
  25. rhncue
    Are you sure you have your cylinder number correct and it's #1 and not #2 that is not working. The coil firing on #2 is what drives the tac. If it is dead so will your tac. Dick
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