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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. An 83 will only work on an 83. 84 through 89 are the same and will not work on an 83. Dick
  2. This is what I assumed for the "83" but I still thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. Dick
  3. Do you know if this will work with all of the 1st gens including the 83 and 90 - 93? Dick
  4. I have a question. If the hose going to the air box causes so much of an oil mess in the box and running down the carbs, how does that crankcase filter alleviate the mess? It seems that the blow-by would just be worse as none would be getting burned in the carbs. I just remember the mess that occurred on engines back when Detroit used crankcase vents before the advent of PCV valves. Inquiring minds want to know. Dick
  5. Tim, do you know who these people are who are building these kits? I was just wondering how they got your idea from you. I don't know what the final selling price will be but at present, 140.00 including shipping sounds pretty cheap for all the components I see in the pictures. I don't think I like the final looks of the unit in the bike though aesthetically. Will these type of bulbs really increase visibility that much? Does the Venture have the amperage to run another 65 watt bulb? I can see that you are disappointed that someone is producing these kits but, I feel, if you started to produce your units you could sell many on this board and probably others. Dick
  6. No no, the originals are available from Bike Bandit.com for 43.00 and change each. Since you have to change it anyway I just thought you may like one twice as good for less than a quarter the price since it is apparent that the original is not up to carrying the load. Dick
  7. Now would be a good time to up-grade your cables to 4 gauge. The starter will spin much easier than with the to small of gauge standard wire. Some one on this forum makes these up and sells them but I just bought a long battery cable for another vehicle from Walmart and some small copper end lugs, cut the cable to length for both cables and then soldered on the lugs. I cut the old main fuse wire off of the old cable and soldered it back onto the new when installing the lugs. It's been a long time since I did mine but if I remember right it cost me about 10 or 12 dollars. I'm sure prices have gone up since then though. Dick
  8. It could be your shift linkage. Where the linkage clamps onto the shift stud protruding from the side case can be installed at the wrong angle. One tooth off in either direction makes shifting very difficult. If it is off one tooth off in one direction, up shifting is difficult. One tooth off in the other and down shifting is difficult. The foot lever should be almost perfectly parallel to be correct. Just something easy and cheap to check as that was my problem after changing the stator. There is an adjustment for the hight of the foot lever but the linkage must be at the proper angle for shifting before this adjustment is made. Dick
  9. I just checked the seat part numbers and the 83 and the 88 have the same part number. You can see them here: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2482]Yamaha Parts Diagrams - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Dick
  10. This was all started on another thread. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37971]has anyone explored alternative voltage regulator... - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Read that thread and all of your questions will be answered. In it, Squeeze stated that a rec/reg of this type was the best on the market. Another poster (Salty Dog) describes the one that he got and how he mounted it. I then found one on ebay and posted where I got it from, the price I paid, the price for shipping, the man's tel.# and e-mail address and what ever other information that was pertinent was posted there. That is when Squeeze thought of a group buy and asked me to look into one. I am the one who called the man and after that all contacts for the buy was done by e-mail. All the e-mails that I and the man sent each other are posted in that thread. Once this was established Squeeze started this thread just to see who wanted in on the deal. Although the group buy was Squeez's idea, so far he has made no contact at all with the man who has these available although he certainly can because as of now I'm not going to have anything else to do with it. There are many more than 25 or 30 who want one or more of these. Is it your opinion to leave these other 20 or so people out of the deal because the number of 25 or 30 was arbitrarily used as a number when I called and got the deal? I'm completely at a loss as to your attitude concerning this as if I'm a crook or con man. Have a wonderful day as I am and I'm done with this thread. Dick
  11. Maybe my addition is off but If you read the post I believe I stated the the total units wanted is now closer to 50. That adds up to 1600 plus shipping from him to who ever does the ordering plus buying the other connector parts needed. I have no clue how many he has to sell but I do know that it is not a limitless amount and he is selling the ones he has everyday on e-bay. How do people pay in advance if the total amount is not yet known? I was just trying to be help full and get this going because it's not going to last forever. I already have mine and I'm using it and just posted the details so that others could get a deal also. I do believe that in this case, If you snooze you lose. Dick
  12. Well, has anyone decided to volunteer to be the poster child to do this ordering, gathering extra parts, shipping and collecting the money. At the moment it looks like we've got orders for close to 50 units. I have no clue just how many he has to sell. Once everyone decides what amount they really want then contact can be made to see what is available. It may be easier, and maybe cheaper to get the units, take an inventory of what is supplied and then order the needed extra metal connectors from the other source, that I believe, Salty Dog provided. Since no one knows for sure what the total amount for these units, the extra parts and shipping is going to be it's hard to put a final price on each pkg. deal for pre-payment. It also looks like around 1800.00 or so is going to be needed for someone to do this buy just to get things rolling. I just received a small Priority Mail Flat Rate box from Rick Butler and the postage was 4.95. This box is big enough to handle one of these units but it wouldn't include insurance I'm pretty sure. What say Ye? Dick
  13. I made mine out of soft copper plumbing connections. Cut to length and then took a small section out so that they fit the muffler and pipes. Dick
  14. This is exactly the kit that I got with the rec/reg when I bought it. It is on the second link that Salty Dog provided. Furukawa .250 Connectors 3 Position 3P250WPK-FEQLW-BK-F-300 Now with the units we are purchasing, the bulky, outer coupling is provided but in most cases, not the metal connectors or rubber plugs shown in this picture as he is about out of them. As you can see, the metal connectors are not that expensive and if someone didn't want to buy the rubber seals, I'm sure a little RTV would suffice. I seen the metal and rubber parts hanging from a rack in a parts store last week but I never checked their price. Dick
  15. Right, he's got the connectors. Those are just dedicated plug covers that plug into the rec/reg but there is nothing inside of them. That's what the crimp terminals and cavity plugs are for. They fit inside of the connectors and make the contact. Real, not the Auto Zone type part stores sell what is needed and I wouldn't imagine that they cost much at all, maybe 2.00 or so but I wanted people to know what they are actually getting. I don't know exactly how many of these units they have as I explained our situation and said probably 20 or 25 units. I believe these are the units that were going to go on to the new Indian Motorcycles before they went out of business again. Dick
  16. You fellows need to read those e-mails a little better. No where does he say that he has 25 connectors. He said he has the plugs and a few connectors and some of the moisture plugs. He said he will throw in what he has but it might be 1 or it might be 30. No guarantees on the quantities. Dick
  17. Yes, he charged me 5.00 extra for the connectors, terminals and cavity plugs but he has included the ones that he has in the base price of 32.00. The drawback is that he doesn't believe he has enough of these components for all of the units that we buy so some buyers would have to go to the auto store to purchase some of these connections. Dick
  18. Here is the information that was sent to me this morning: "Good morning, Let’s do $32.00 each. I can send the connectors for all 25 pieces, but not sure about the crimp terminals and cavity plugs. Like before, we can do this through PayPal and I just send you an invoice. I’ll have to weigh the qty you need in order to getting the shipping price. Remember, most of the regulators I have left have scratches on the bottom plate because they were installed then removed. The heat sink and rest of the visible sides are in perfect shape. Also, could you do me a favor and leave positive feedback on ebay for me? Thanks! Dave" I don't know if others can do better or not on price. Dick >>
  19. Here is the e-mail that he sent to me after I called: "Hi Dick, Thanks for the call! I’d be happy to sell you more regulators. The majority of what I have left have been installed, but then pulled, so there are scratches on the bottom plate, but still never used. I have some of the connectors, but not sure how many sets of crimp terminals & cavity plugs I can get my hands on. > Let me know how many you are looking for and we will go from there. I also have a bunch of Yuasa / Interstate batteries if you know anyone interested in them. We over bought and they have been sitting for a year. I sold several on ebay after giving them a refresher charge and the customer was pleased with the 5 he bought. Thanks again, Dave " Dave Dudziak Buyer ddudziak@indianmotorcycle.com p: 704.937.4020 f: 704.937.7776 My reply was: @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial } A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } A:visited { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-compose } DIV.Section1 { page: Section1 } Hello Dave, I belong to the Venture Riders on line motorcycle club or group. Any way there are a large number of old and new Yamaha venture bike owners. The first generations 83 - 93 have old technology reg/recs and many would like to up grade. Another rider had got an aftermarket reg. on e-bay and told that it worked very well so I got one from you and when I stated that on one of the forums, a number of others said they would also like to do that. One Yamaha mechanic from Germany asked me to see if we could get a group discount of any sort for buying like 20 or 25 of them. Since I have your e-mail address and ph.# they asked me to contact you. That's how we stand as of today. What do you think, Dick
  20. I looked at my spare set of carbs early this morning to refresh my memory some. As I said earlier, the carb set needs to be only partially slid into place going in from the left side. There are two cable guides screwed onto the top of the carb rack. With the inner guide unscrewed and off the rack the inner and outer cables can then be easily installed. Once installed, the guide is then screwed back into place. Once the cables are connected the rack is then slid farther into place until aligned with the boots and then finished up. It's been awhile since I have removed the carbs but for a week or so I removed and reinstalled them at least 8 times trying to get the floats adjusted just right. I remember timing the last install and it was right at 15 minutes from start to having the bike sitting and running. The hardest problem I had was re-connecting the hose to the bottom of the filter box. Once I finally figured out how to get it on with some long needle nose pliers it also became a little easier. Dick
  21. Not yet. I called and left a message for Dave and am awaiting his return call. Dick
  22. I haven't messed with the carbs for awhile so my memory isn't real clear. I do know that you put the cables back on before seating the carbs into place. If I remember correctly I took off the bracket that holds the cables in place until the cables were connected and then screwed the bracket back in place. I know that once I figured it out it was very easy to do. Dick
  23. Sorry. I haven't talked to the man except through a couple of e-mails. I just looked and got his name and tel#. Apparently these are what were used on The new Indian Motorcycles they were building for awhile as that is who is selling them. I'll give the tel# a call on Mon. and see what they have to say. Dick
  24. Well I just got finished installing mine. I bolted it to the bar that runs from the front motor mount to the frame upright at the back of the engine. I put it right alongside the front cylinders in the open area on the front fairing lowers. I took the middle case cover off so that I could reroute the wires from the stator so that they came up through the opening for bleeding the clutch slave and just soldered the new plug on and then sent the other two wires straight up into the battery area. I put in a in line 30 amp fuse and connected to the battery. Upon starting the bike using a m/m it was charging 13.85 to 14 volts at 800 rpm. I then raised the rpms to about 2500 rpms and the voltage was a steady 14.49. I'm sure it's just my imagination but the bike feels as if it runs smoother. Color me happy. Dick
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