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rhncue

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  1. rhncue
    They must have raised their prices since I received mine as I paid 60.00 and 5.00 for 65.00 total. Dick
  2. rhncue
    I did what was stated on the first page of this thread. There is a link which I clicked and followed and e-mailed to Martin. He e-mailed back and I paid 65.00, 60.00 and 5.00 shipping. Dick
  3. rhncue
    WOW!!! They've really went up. I paid something around 70.00 about 10 years ago. Dick
  4. rhncue
    Does it make much of a difference? No. Does it make a difference - Absolutely. These bikes seem to not want to run straight and narrow at higher speeds. Wobbles, shimmies and shakes can ruin your day. When I first got my 83 it was scary to ride at 70 mph. I greased and adjusted the neck bearings, I tightened the forks, I put on a Super Brace, I bought new tires and experimented with air pressures. No one thing cured my shakes but cumulatively, It runs dead nuts at over a 100 mph now. Each change would make a small improvement. Dick
  5. rhncue
    No and no. You need to change a number of items as the 83 84 have a quick disconnect and the 85 up use a different type of mounting rack and the trunk fits and is bolted onto it. Dick
  6. rhncue
    I would believe that the rear brake is designed to have more force applied than the front. What is wanted is for the front and rear wheel to brake together. If the rear and front left were applied equally, then when the front right is applied the front would have a much greater chance of locking from to much brake. Dick
  7. rhncue
    You still have bad solder connections. There are a number of different circuits in use for every change in the class system. What you are hearing is the solenoid kicking in for where the air is to go (front or back) however the circuit that starts the pump is not being energized. Back with the soldering gun. When I first got my bike I had the same problem but never had this forum as of yet. I removed the compressor unit and tested it completely out and all was working as it was supposed to but when reinstalled I got the same readings as you. When checking I found no voltage running to the compressor itself although the solenoids were working. I put a button on the dash spliced to the wire going to the compressor and to a live wire off of the fuse box. Now when I want to add air I put the dash unit on manual, hold the add button and at the same time push my button that sends juice to the compressor and vola, it pumps up. If I had learned about the cold solder joints before this I would have repaired the problem the correct way. Dick
  8. rhncue
    That sounds like a bad battery to me. It's not holding a full charge. after running awhile the charge in the battery comes up so you show a higher charging rate. once stopped, this surface charge drops back down. Of coarse, loose and dirty connections will have an affect also. Dick
  9. rhncue
    All of the first gens have a metering valve unless someone has removed it. Dick
  10. rhncue
    This is the cause for sure. As soon as I read the problem I knew it was moisture in the brake fluid but continued reading the comments and then seen that you answered it correctly. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and new fluid should be discarded after a short while after the container has been opened. Dick
  11. rhncue
    Well, for sure the first thing I would do is turn up the idle screw until it would continue to run on it's own and then start looking for ways to find the problem. Hell, that may be it's only problem. Dick
  12. rhncue
    My 83 has not been inside of a garage since it left the showroom floor. What's to be afraid of? They are each fairly simple devices. You just have 4 of them so it looks complicated. You can rebuild them in an afternoon. I would try to acquire another set of carbs just for spare parts in case any are needed such as floats, needle valves or diaphragms. Get a gallon can of carb cleaner to soak the parts in and go at it one carb at a time. I do one at a time so as not to mix parts between carbs. Don't soak any rubber parts. Dick
  13. rhncue
    Those are the tires that I use. I had the rear and purchase the front from Ron Ayers a month or so ago. They charged 12.00 for delivery for the one tire. I don't know if they charge for shipping on two tires or not. I know that after I purchased mine I found other places that gave free shipping. Also, Ron Ayers doesn't stock these tires but have them ordered in or drop shipped when an order is placed. Dick
  14. rhncue
    Yes, these are identical. When researching if parts from different years are the same I go to the First generation tech library on this forum and go to the last thread which is: Guides, Parts diagrams. This has all the schematics of the first gens and part numbers listed by years. I just look up the part number of the two years of bikes and see if they are the same. If they are the same then I know there is no difference, if the parts have different part numbers, then I ask questions on this forum to see if the new part number is for an up grade and will still work. Dick
  15. rhncue
    There are differences between 83 and 84. I know the fuel needles and seats are different and the vacuum pick-up for the timing comes off of a port on the carb instead of the intake. Dick
  16. rhncue
    Well I'm pretty positive that the forks are the exact same distance apart between the early first gens and the later as the lower triple tree has the same part number. The top tree has a different part number and the pictures of it are quite a bit different but I don't know if the dimensions are different as to how far the tubes go into the top tree. Since the tubes also have a different part number I'm not sure if the length is the same or if the distance from the air inlets and the distance to the top tree is the same. Once I pull the front end off the bike these questions, of coarse, will be answered but I was wanting this change to go smoothly and quickly with no surprises to slow down the up-grade. I had intended to slip the tubes out of the trees on the bike and remove the lower tree from the new front end and just slide them into place with the trees still positioned on the bike. I kind of have my doubts now as I don't really want to disturb the air seals on the tubes which would have to be removed if I remove the lower tree from the 86 forks. Thanks for giving me your insight on this change Rick and I hope you have a wonderful day. Dick
  17. rhncue
    I bought the entire front end off of an 86 this past winter to install on my 83 so as to get the better brakes and damping system. Here is my problem. This set up came without the top triple tree. I was trying to decide what would be the easiest way to install these, just the tubes and use my present trees or use the lower tree that is now on the forks and use my top tree. I checked part numbers and the lower tree numbers are the same but the top is different. The tubes are also of different numbers. Would those of you who have switched these front ends like to share your experience in this modification. Did you use your old trees or the later or just how did you come up with a solution? Thanks mucho in advance. Dick
  18. rhncue
    I've got an 83 that I bought in 1999 with 23000 miles. I had to do a lot of repair work as the bike was in bad shape but I got around to changing the clutch springs in 2001. I ordered them through an after market discount motorcycle parts store and they were only something around 10 bucks for the set. The bike has not slipped since and it now has over 70,000 miles. At the time I had bought new friction plates also but upon taking the clutch out and miking the plates I found them to be close to the new ones in size. The springs were the cause of the slippage. These were after market, heavy duty springs, not Yamaha, but I don't remember the brand. Sorry. Dick
  19. rhncue
    I would think it almost surely would be where the wiring harness connects to the back of the panel. There isn't a lot of room there and often the wiring is under a strain. Check this area for good solder connections and that there is enough play in the harness to assure a good, stress free connection. Dick
  20. rhncue
    There are a number of things that can be causing your problems. It could be a loose line connection, a bad O-ring, bad circuitry in the CLASS dash panel or it could be a sticking solenoid or valve in the compressor assembly. If you have a manual, in the back there is a detailed progression on how to check and eliminate different things that can cause the problem. Remove seat and trunk to access the compressor and start with the testing eliminating the easy to check things first. Get a small plastic bottle of soap water and check all your connections especially where the lines connect to the valve body. There are O-rings under these connections that can sometimes leak. Dick
  21. rhncue
    Well, my diaphragms arrived today. They, of coarse, look identical to the original ones. I have no clue when I'll be able to install. Dick
  22. rhncue
    This is the wrong thread. You should reference the sticky thread at the top of the page: Sticky: Carb Diaphragm info...finally Dick
  23. rhncue
    Martin answered my e-mail at 6:39 pm on 3/7/09 telling me the Paypal address. My Paypal time that money was transfered was on 3/7/09 at 7:14 PM. Here is what I received in Monday's e-mail: Dear Sir, Thank you for your payment, your order goes out Today, Air Mail (usually 3 - 10 business days) Thanks, Laurentiu OUR PRICES ARE UP TO 10% LOWER ON www.siriusconinc.com>> OUR PRICES ARE UP TO 10% LOWER ON www.siriusconinc.com>> Just type in your bike model at the top. >> Questions on your bike or more parts? E-mail us at: sci@siriusconinc.com Dick
  24. rhncue
    You should have been quicker on the draw. Mine are on their way by air mail. Dick
  25. rhncue
    I thought the E-11s that are still being sold were NOS. I know that the E-111s are now being made in both front and back sizes. Dick
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