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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    mini-muffin got it right. 99% of the time it is a cold solder joint where the wires connect between th circuit board pin coupler. Just re-solder the wires where they are fed onto the board. This has been discussed many times on this forum and there are pictures that show what to look for and how to repair. Just do a search and you will get much to read. Adventurer just wiggled the connection and his worked but this is only a short time remedy as it will reoccur as all he did is make that connection to make contact for a while until a bump or something makes it move again. Dick
  2. rhncue
    Mine is an 83 that does not have a CB so only has one mast. The one that came on the bike was a long whip antenna. I lost it one night so I put on a car antenna which is much shorter and the reception has really suffered because of it. The long whip picked up stations both farther away and with more clarity. I really miss the original. Dick
  3. rhncue
    I was of the understanding that the fan has power running to it all of the time and the switch grounds the unit so that it works. When you wired a bypass are you sure you wired it correctly? Dick
  4. rhncue
    Could be rust/debris in the fuel tank and now has worked back up into the new carbs. Drain the carbs through some cheese cloth or such and see what you catch. I had the same problem with an old KZ11. Had to clean and reseal the inside of the tank. Dick
  5. rhncue
    You are correct, the pipes are double pipes. The pipes could be causing the problem but the lone baffle in the collector could be the cause also especially if it is being held in only one place. At the right resonance it might act like a reed in a musical saxophone or clarinet. Dick
  6. rhncue
    If the directions say cut the brown wire then do it as it's not needed. the OEM regulator used it for feed back from the ignition but most after market reg/recs don't use them. Are you sure the bike runs hot? The gauge on the early models are not calibrated correctly and read hotter than the bike actually is. However, if the bike is running hot there is two things to check. One is the thermostat and 2nd is the impeller on the water pump. The early bikes use a plastic impeller that can break or start slipping causing over heating problems. It can be replaced with the upgraded metal impeller. Dick
  7. rhncue
    I'm very particular on what plug to put in all of my vehicles. I always get what ever is on sale and I really don't believe I've ever had any trouble with any of them. Dick
  8. rhncue
    There are 5 terminals on the reg/rec. They are independent of each other so they come with the five independent connectors and water proof plugs. I bolted mine to the brace behind the lower fairings. I already had plug for the three white wires that go between the stator and the reg/rec removed and permanently connected so I just cut the wires right where they were soldered and folded them back along the frame to the new reg/rec, put on the new plugs and plugged them into the new unit. I then ran two new wires, one ground and one hot, straight up to the battery area and connected them. I left the old reg/rec and it's wiring in place but unplugged the old one from the harness so as not to get any interference. My old unit was bad so I'll never use it anymore but it causes no trouble where it's at. Once you see how good these new ones work you'll never go back either. Dick
  9. rhncue
    Having them made at a machine shop may be a little pricey as the setup and tooling would be high for a one off. If the need was greater, which doesn't appear to be prevailant or they would be in stock, they could very easily be made in a little home shop. Standard bushings are made in many different materials and sizes and cost little. With a small lathe and a proper size reamer a person could take a standard size and refit very easily and very cheaply. Most bushes cost less than a dollar and are made of softer material designed to wear instead of the shaft. If made of oil light bronze they would even be self lubricating. There are many small items that fall into the same category. The solid motor mounts come to mind. They would be extremely easy to manufacture in small numbers very easily and cheaply with a small lathe. Someone making them's hardest part would be in finding people to buy them. The best person to do this type of small production of items such as these are one of the members on here that already sell some hard to get products as people would know where to look for them. Dick
  10. rhncue
    My 83 sits out in the weather all year and the same thing happens to me every year. If you will look at your foot pedal linkage you can trace it back to where the linkage connects to a pin that goes through the frame to a lever that operates the plunger to the rear master cylinder. At any rate, this pin that goes through the frame is a snug fit so if a little water gets in there after a while rust will form so that it is difficult for the pin to revolve back and forth easily so the spring then is not strong enough to bring the pedal back to the at rest position. The best way to correct the problem is to disassemble all of the linkage both on the front side and the linkage to the master. Once everything is out of the way this pin and lever can be pushed through the frame, all of the rust removed from both the pin and bush in the frame, grease installed into the bush and then reassembled. The grease helps in keeping water from seeping back in for some time. This takes some time to do however. An easier way, although it is no cure and will need to be done much more often as there is no grease protection is to take the linkage loose from the master cylinder so that the brake pedal can have much greater movement. Then Rust Buster or an equivalent product can be liberally sprayed onto the area where the pin goes through the frame. Keep working the pedal up and down and spraying to keep the area wet with solvent. After a while of working this pedal a little farther in both directions as the fluid seeps in will finally get most of the rust out and make the pedal pivot very easily again. Once it moves freely connect the lever back to the master and your done. As I said though, it's not going to last nearly as long as taking everything apart and greasing. Dick
  11. rhncue
    That is a great price. I paid 60.00 for mine used 10 years ago. Dick
  12. rhncue
    Mine has arrived also!!! Dick
  13. rhncue
    I have intended to make a couple of covers to just cover this area also but I like this idea much better. Stainless would look nice but it is so hard to work with. Very tough metal and I don't thing tin snips would do much cutting. I've got a foot shear but it wouldn't faze stainless of any thickness. I've got some aluminum that looks heavier than what it looks like Cinmack used. I could probably keep the final form a little flatter and not distorted by using it and I believe I would probably paint the finished product so as to stop any oxidation. It does look like an affordable cure to a problem however as in the summertime there is so much heat coming off the engine and pipes in that area that my leg gets burned up and the ability to flip in the other direction for winter is a great idea. Dick
  14. rhncue
    A few years ago I bought a new one for a 83 1200 from Buckeye performance for 525.00 when they were still available. I already had 4 used ones and a problem started with both the alternator and the bikes performance. I tried all of the spare CDIs that I had to no avail so I bought a new one. It did the same thing so upon a thorough investigation I found the small pigtail ground wire that comes off of the batteries ground and grounds the bikes electronics wasn't plugged in. Upon plugging it in everything then operated as they should. Now I had 5 CDI's, one of which was brand new. I new no one would trust buying one of the used ones so I sold the new one to a member on this forum for either 300 or 350.00. don't remember exactly but never the less, that was an expensive unplugged pig tail. Dick
  15. rhncue
    The Deka and the Odyssey battery have no liquid electrolyte. They are a gel of some sort. Dick
  16. rhncue
    It's been 2 or 3 years since I changed my wires and ends so prices may have went up a little but when I got mine I got the ends and wire from Rick Hafferkamp at http://www.buckeyeperformance.com . The ends were the original NGK that come standard on the bike and about 8 feet of the correct wire for twenty something dollars. The correct NGK ends were 3.00 and change each and the rest was for the wire. At the time those kits were being sold on e-bay with buy it now of 40.00. Most auto part stores carry these exactly identical components at better prices than the e-bay guy.
  17. rhncue
    When I was using an liquid acid battery and purchased a new one the new battery never had a hole for the sensor so I just miked the base of the sensor and drilled a hole in the top of the battery and stuck it in and it always worked fine. Since then I bought an Odyssey battery and have been very happy with it. The bike sits out in the weather all winter and come spring it starts right up. The newer battery that people are using now was not available when I bought the Odyssey but the next time I need a battery I'll try one of them. Dick
  18. rhncue
    You are absolutely correct about the years that will work but I might add that the later the model year of the TCI the better. Meaning an 86 is better than an 85 an a 89 is better than a 88. Over the years there were some upgrades an that is the reason for different part numbers when checking the different years. Dick
  19. rhncue
    Yes they are the same except for the stitch pattern on the seat. Dick
  20. rhncue
    I'll take one also. I'll Paypal amount shortly. Thanks, Dick Dick Neighbors 318 Linden st Cincinnati OH 45216
  21. rhncue
    That reasoning could be taken one step farther. Riding motorcycles are dangerous so if you choose to ride one and are injured should you should face the consequences yourself also? There was a case here in Ohio where a judge thought the same way. A motorist caused an accident where a motorcyclist was killed and the judge just gave a small fine stating that if the motorcyclist had been in a car he wouldn't have been killed so he was responsible for his own death. Dick
  22. rhncue
    Greg, those things are both tiny and weigh next to nothing. See if anyone on this forum is going to order these and they can order a supply for you also. They could be sent to you in a padded envelope very cheaply I am sure. Dick
  23. rhncue
    Hand machining metal is both time consuming and expensive. It my be weeks or months of looking for you but even if it's just one hour for a machine shop your talking a 100.00 and I believe it would take much longer than that to set up the different machines to make one or a few. You could probably have them mass produced very cheaply in China but what are you going to do with 10,000 of them? Dick
  24. rhncue
    Great link. About 7 or 8 years ago I got those from Radio Shack on line. The stores never carried them but you could get them on line for about that same price but they quit carrying them some time ago. I'm going to book mark this information now. Thanks. Dick
  25. rhncue
    I've done that for 50 years when the pressure is low in a cylinder. If it is a valve or out of time the oil makes no difference in readings. If the reading increases much then it is usually a bad ring. It just eliminates valves. The best test however is a leak down test. Make up an on/off valve with a male hose connector on one end and a female at the other. Then connect between your air supply and the compression tester hose with the gauge removed, put the cylinder in question at tdc and with the engine in gear so that the crank doesn't revolve open the valve and listen to where the air is escaping. If through the carb it's intake valve, through the exhaust it's exhaust valve, through the crankcase breather it's rings or piston and if in bubbles in radiator a crack in cylinder wall or blown head gasket or such. Dick
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