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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. Actually, if you lok on ebay, you can gwet a cover to fit from China for less than $20 and they work!! Other than that, if you have the room, maybe you can either put up a camping tent or one of those flea market gazebos. That way you will have a little room to work under it! Keep us posted on your progress and don't be afraid to ask questions!! It may take some time and a little money, but when you are done you will have one heck of a nice bike!!!!!
  2. What part are you looking for?? One of us may have what you need...
  3. Can you say "Bat-bike???"
  4. Hmmmmm, I have bought from that dealer before and had no problems, but my dealings were not a "make offer" deal, just plain auction. Overall I was happy with them, but thanks for that info, I wil be warry of him in the future...
  5. Well, it is supposed to be running on all 4 at idle if that is what you are eluding to. How did you determine this?? Cold pipes on the left side, hot pipes on the right?? Pulled wires one at a time and the wires on the right side made a difference and the ones on the left did not???
  6. At least one if not several of the above!! As mentioned, use as a bargaining tol and pick it up dirt cheap!! We have the technology! Also not mentioned, bad kickstand switch...
  7. Two young girls? Tah! no wonder why the TP disappears!! Not sure exactly what all they do with it, but there has to be a protective barrier of paper between their little fingers and certain parts of their body...
  8. Hmmmm, where to start... Probably one of the first things to do is completely change out the fluid in the brake system. You are probably going to find a lot of crystalization of the fdluid. You are definately going to want to take apart the rear shock suspension and get all your bushings working freely and well lubricated. Definately pull your driveshaft when you change the rear tire, and chnge out the gear oil in the differential. Bearing grease can sometimes get stiff, and sometimes cause the bearings to have hard spots an the races. You are probably going to have carb problems. Make sure to flush out your gas tank, there is probably a lot of crud in it. Change the fuel filter while you are doing the rear tire as well. The list goes on and on, but it is well worth it as you will end up with a bike that is like brand new when you are done. In the mean time, put some miles on that scoot!!!!!
  9. Well, I can't speak for others, but if you were to call us, the answer would be yes! We are always glad to have company and meet new people. I think you wil find that this whole group is a friendly bunch! Enjoy your trip, that's the whole reason behind a touring bike!!
  10. Hopefully!! Yes, the mismatch of "impedance" ofthe antenna's wavelength, or physical length, can indeed damage the transmitter. Chances are you have not done any damage from just a short period, but you never know. They are designed with safety features internally to protect the circuitry but not for long term use. Make sure you put the CB antenna on the correct side. It does not specifically have to be a Yammi antenna, a lot of people have used a "Firestick" brand antenna with very satisfactory results. How's your FM reception with the shorter antenna? The physical size is also important for proper reception, but won't do any damage if not correct, just give poorer reception...
  11. Yah! Pressure washing was not a good idea! I'll almost bet when you remove your TCI and take the cover off for baking you will find a fair amount of water in the TCI. For the most part the board has been waterproofed but not completely. I once heard a person describe the coating as "looked like somebody threw up on the board" which is actually what it does sort of look like. There are some diodes on the board that can go bad. Contact Gary, member "Dingy" for more info on this. BTW if it really is a '84 then any TCI from '84 to '89 will work.
  12. Yes, we use that stuff around the house and for the money, it really IS awesome!! The windshield may be permanantly tinted, same as the paint. I would take the suggesrion about contacting your insurance agency as well as the victim's company and possibly the owner of the storage facility...
  13. What, did you let the smoke out of your wires??? As Ben mentioned, there are some really good commercial products out there. Depending on where the damage is, denatured alcohol may work, and so will 409, Fantastic, etc...
  14. Methinks ya done good!! Rear brake can be hanging up for several reasons, semi stuck caliper probably due to buildup of crud on the pistons, or the brake fluid has crystalized. The proportioning valve may be clogged. Easy to disassemble and clean out. Rotor may be a little warped. I strongly recommend completely flushing both brake systems, front and rear! The fluid is probably quite old, and should be changed out every few years. Rear brake and one front brake are linked, asnd you will also find another bleeder above the battery box near the forks. A very nice update is to switch to R1 or R6 calipers, and switch to stainless steel lines. You wil stop on a dime and give 7 cents change...
  15. Drove past today to find the whole place abandoned...
  16. OK I'll ignore this thread...
  17. bongobobny

    Really ?

    Awwwww, you were looking at my stats again, eh?!!? Post junkie, post whore, whatever...
  18. OK you bring the beer I'll supply the ice!!!
  19. ^^^ What he says!!! You don't want to overinflate, nor underinflate. The only tire to vary from recomended pressure is the rear as it suports the brunt of the weight of the rider and passenger. Just a few extra psi should make the difference in handling. The air suspension is actually more important. If the rear tire needs more air it will "wallow" or feel spongy/mushy. If it is to much, it will feel extra firm and sensitive to just about every pebble you ride over! As far as the front, underinflation will make it feel like the bike hesitates to turn, and overinflated it will feel a little like you are on ice when turning, you loose some of the grip in turning. Improper inflation both ways leads to excess wear on the tires. You wil find the E3's to handle quite well on al surfaces and wear like iron!!
  20. Yah! It took Honda making an 1800 before they could be faster than a MK1! the 1500's could keep up but barely...
  21. OK a few things about "O" ring installation! First clean and inspect the "O" ring grooves for nicks and scratches, as even the slightest groove will cause a leak. The rubber wil conform somewhat to irregularities, but not very wel to a surface that has a definate "edge" such as a scratch, especially of the scratch is perpendicular to the ring. The housing and mounting surface should be as flat and smooth as possible. Fine sanding the surfaces with 400 grit paper is actually a good idea as long as you keep the paper flat. The cover can be rubbed against the paper that is on a flat surface, or use a block for the other surface. Clean all grit out of the grooves and inspect after sanding. The "O" rings should be cleaned and inspected under magnification prior to instalation. For lower pressure water applications, a thin coating of vasoline is a good idea, especially to help keep the rings in place when you install them. As far as "O" ring diameter, there is a thing called "fill area" which was already calculated when the housing was designed. Normal fill rate varies but is usually 50% to 60% of the groove area to allow for expansion. "O" rings should fit a little loose as they are "energised" by pressure being applied to one side of the ring changing their cross sectional profile from a circle to an oval, so maintaining their diameter is important. The idea is not to squish as much rubber into the groove as possible, they will leak every time! Also, the material of the ring is important as different materials are designed for different aplications and fluids. This information has been brought to you by your local friendly flight control hardware technician, who has had a lot of experience with o ring failures especially at higher pressures such as 5000 psi but just as important at low pressures less than 25 psi as well! Hope you find the information useful...
  22. Have you tried the "Seafoam" cure yet?? A half can in a tankful of gas can work wonders, or a full can if you want to change your plugs immediately after! That stuff can work miricles! Drain your gas tank, and your fuel bowls in the carbs as well, then fill up with a good gas and the seafoam and go on a nice long ride, preferrably at highway speeds! The more agressive you are with throttle twisting, the better! After that, try balancing the carbs and see if it runs any smoother. I also would recommend replacing the plugs before doing the vaccuum balance. Also, if the wires are the original ones, it is most likely time for a new set, they don't last forever. Easternrider has a god point, if one of the diaphragms is torn you wil see wetting on the outside. It doesn't hurt to remove the sliders and give them a good cleaning to get any dirt or contamination off the plastic. Also clean the bore they ride in as you could have crud built up on the walls. As Mr "Backwards Farm" states, there is a lot of knowledge here and we can supply you with more info than you caqn handle!! Also, when you remove the security torx screw from each cover, replace them with regular phillips screws to match the other 3 per cover, and save you or the next person a hassle the next time they come off!! There is an excellent video that is for sale on ebay that gives step by step instructions for rebuilding the carbs. It is based on the vmax carbs, but the procedure is exactly the same. The only thing you probably won't be able to do is use a sniffer to fine tune the mixture screws but chances are if you rebuild them right, they wil be close enough that they will work just fine!
  23. Why, yes I would!!
  24. Well, there is always the chance that the unit itself is defective! You can try unconecting the boards and then reseating them, you can also try cleaning up the connector to the display board, the "Zebra conector can be dirty and not actually conecting with the glass display...
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