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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Doug, You have asked a very Good Question. When the Calipers are assembled at the factory, there are two Round, flat, rubber Gaskets (for a lack of a better word) that seal the ports that let brake fluid pass from one side to the other. When you look at a Yamaha Parts diagram for ANY of the two piece calipers YOU WILL NOT FIND THESE TWO PARTS on the diagram! I spoke with a Yamaha Service Rep. and long time friend and asked him about this. His answer was "the caliper halves are matched at the factory, the caliper bolts are Locktited and torqued, And Yamaha doesn't feel that the average Mechanic will take the time to insure the quality of assembly that Yamaha Factory does." Thats why they don't have the two gaskets on the parts diagram. So to make a long story short, either install the seal kits with the caliper in one piece (good luck getting the old brake fluid cleaned out properly) or for goodness sake, DON'T LOOSE THOSE TWO RUBBER GASKETS! On a personal note, I machine and assemble Military Aircraft for a living and there are not to many things on a motorcycle that are more complicated than that. I have taken over 100 of these two piece calipers apart and as long as you don't loose the gaskets, Loctite and torque the bolts properly, you won't have a problem. I will add that I have had to scrap a few caliper bodies because the piston bores were damaged, corroded or I just could not get the piston out. I have an ad in the Classifieds for rebuilding First Gen. Calipers: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2443/cat/6/date/1156391368 I stand behind every part I rebuild or sell. I hope this answers your question. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Holy Cow Dave! Both Jean and I are shocked to hear this news! We truly hope that all goes well for your daughter. If there is anything we can do for you, please let us know. We are willing to help any way we can. I am a universal blood donor, (O pos) if blood is needed, please let me know. ( Of course this would me we would be "Blood Brothers" then) Your family is in our thoughts and prayers, Earl and Jean
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Steve, The Bore on the Second Gen. Front Master Cylinder is 5/8" (.625" or 15.87MM). I am a little confused about WHY you would want to go to a SMALLER Front Master Cylinder on your Second Gen. VR.? By design, the R1 calipers have a much larger "sweet spot" as far as brake feel is concerned. As far as that "Grabby" rear caliper is concerned, I personally have installed an R1 caliper on the rear of my scoot and did away with any lock-up problems I had. Steve, I would be happy to set up a kit for you that has the rear R1 Caliper included. If you are interested, PM me and we can work out the details. Now back to the regular thread! Sorry! Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Rick, I forgot you Texan's are still riding down there! (22 degrees F, snowing here!) I could have that R1 kit to you by the first of the week but if you are careful removing the pistons they should be just fine. Clean those pistons good, replace the seals and you will be good to go. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Rick, What you are seeing on the outer edge of the pistons is a combination of brake fluid and the dust that comes off of the brake pads. It whips up into a really good lapping compound. After removing the pistons, (don't use vice grips!) I check the pistons with a micrometer, that's when you know if they are junk or not. I clean them with brake cleaner and polish them with a rag wheel and polishing compound on my bench grinder. The seal kits are the real killer! Check out the cost of those kits before you put a bunch of time into the pistons. If you want to come into the 21st century with your braking, check out this option: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2445/cat/7 If you have other questions you can PM me if you like. Good Luck with your brake project, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    The difference between the MKI and MKII sets is the MKI set has two angled plug caps just the way the stock sets are. I believe the angled caps are a bit more pricy and that is the reason for the difference in price. I have actually run the MKII set on a MKI with no ill effects. (It's actually easier to pull the straight plug caps to change plugs) Of course, I don't run the plastic "Heat Shields" on my bike. Plug changing is a snap. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    I BET you've seen the BACK of a few of them...eh Ruffy!?!? Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Freebird has agreed to send me his RSV Final Drive (Thanks a Bunch Don!) I will use his final drive to make the measurements I need to machine the VMAX Final Drive I currently have. Once I have an Idea what the machine time is and add in the cost of the VMAX final drive I will post pics of the Modified VMAX Final Drive in the Classifieds in the Second Generation Venture Parts and Accessories section with the price. (I can tell you right now, it ain't gonna be $150.00) I was hoping to work with one of you Second Gen. owners, but no one stepped up in a timely manner. I am SURE I can beat CycleMAX's price (which is $625.00 if you want to keep your stock Final Drive!) and you will be able to keep you stock final drive. The way I see it, it's a win, win. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    I have a pair of the vents. Two of the tabs have been JB welded back on (not visible when installed) ALL OF THE LOUVERS are fully functional. $130 for the pair, shipping is free.If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Eddie, I just Paypaled you for two patches. Thanks for putting this together for us. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Ed, I don't know if you have put your Carbs. Back together or not but the reason the needle "springs in and out is so the the needle doesn't destroy the seat of the main jet. Could it be that you have the washers on the wrong side of the lock washer? The object of the shim mod is to move the needle closer to the main jet seat so the shims should be thinner than the nylon washer, thus there should be slightly More spring in the needle. I have attached some pics of this mod and I now machine a nylon washer to replace the stock Yamaha Spacer that is in the slider. If you are interested in the replacement nylon spacers, PM me. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    I seem to remember that part of the HD Trailer Towing Package is an Alternator "Cut Out" under heavy loads. (like passing or towing a trailer up a hill) I am sure if you call your local Chevy Dealer and give them your VIN number they can tell you if this is an option on your pick-up. Just a thought, Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, Because I don't own a Second Gen. I just don't know where that speedo hole goes! I would LOVE to offer the VMAX Final Drive to the Second Gen. Owners at a price LOWER than other company's are offering it for. If you would send me your Final Drive I would only need it for a few days and would be happy to send it back to you. Heck, I would even cover your shipping costs to send it. Do you happen to remember what you paid for your VMAX Final Drive? Also, is there a spacing shim between the Final Drive and the Drive Shaft Tube? Thanks Again, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    I currently have 2 VMAX Final Drives and have been wanting to modify one with the speedo hole for the Second Gens. I am willing to do the Machine work for FREE if a Second Gen. Owner will bring their bike to my shop, or send their final drive to me so I can measure the placement of the speedo hole. I will then machine the hole in this VMAX Final Drive I have and sell it to the owner for just the cost of the VMAX Final Drive. (Approx. $150.00) These units go for over $300.00 exchange so if some Second Genner is interested, I will give them a heck of a deal if they will work with me on this. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    I use a rag polishing wheel on a bench grinder to polish the pistons. I use a wheel cylinder hone to clean up the bores. A light hone with kerosene is how I do it. The red grease goes on the seals BEFORE you try to install the piston. Anyone else who is looking for rebuilt VR calipers might find this link interesting: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2443/cat/6/date/1156391368 If you are interested, PM Me. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    I have the complete assembly from a 86'VR, if you are interested, PM me. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Every trailer that is sold at Tractor Supply, Home Depot, Lowe's or any small trailer fab shop is registered as a "Home Made" trailer. Don't even think twice about it, fill in the paperwork, follow the instructions, get the plates. It's just that simple. I think you might be getting "hung up" on the "home made" part of the verbiage. It's just the term DMV uses to describe one off, small production run, and custom trailers. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Great Job! I would like one as well. I can Paypal you the funds anytime you like. Thanks for working on this, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Ed, Your stock wires being 24 years old were made during a time when silicone was not regularly used. The new set has a silicone inner core and the regular PVC outer covering. It has been my experience that the caps cause as much if not more trouble than the wires. There is a vendor that regularly lists a very nice set of spark plug wires on Ebay with top of the line NGK caps in the $40.00 range. I have used these plug wires many times and have never had a problem with a single set. I, like you am always willing to save a buck or two but there are some things (like high voltage electricity) that I prefer not to take short cuts on. Not to mention, if you replace your wires with the set your buddy gave you they may cause another problem. If $40.00 gets you another 24 years of trouble free performance than I would call that money well spent. Hope this helps, Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    Call your local Yamaha dealer and they will be happy to run the VIN Number and tell you if the bike is still under warranty. No need to fix something if Yamaha will do it for you. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Terry, I have the 87'VR as do you and from time to time I have had all of the switches on the right side of the handle bar act up. So far, I have been able to take all of the switches apart on the right side and clean with contact cleaner, then add some dielectric grease to the contact points and all has been well. I would start there. Oh, the other thing is at speeds above 85MPH the cruise control will kick off so...SLOW DOWN! you mad man! Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Jim, Wouldn't this be covered under the warranty? Do you have a decent dealer in your area that would pull the front wheel and put a new valve stem in? Just a thought, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Holy Cow Karl! You could have come here and I would have treated you twice as bad...FOR HALF THE PRICE!!! By the way, no copays here at "the little shop by the creek"! When you are feeling a bit better, please feel free to come for a visit. both Jean and I look forward to having you come. Hang in there, I am sure you will be feeling better in no time at all. (especially when you get to ride again!) When was the last time you saw a motorcycle parked in front of a Psychologist office!?!? Earl and Jean
  24. skydoc_17
    Pegscrapper is correct, The Caps are match bored for each head. In a pinch, I have had good luck taking several caps and using Plasti-gage (green) you can check the clearance on each of the caps until you find one close enough to being in spec to be useable. Option two would be to machine .015 off the bottom of one of the cam caps you get from Dan and then set the head up on a milling machine and re-bore the cam cap to match the cylinder head. Option one is a LOT cheaper but will take some time. But if you are like me, I have more time than money these days! Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, I am very sorry to hear this, could you please give us a few more details. Is it on the right side or left? Did just the head break off? Can you see any way to get the Valve Cover off over the stud? Fill us in and we will see if we can't get a game plan together. Earl
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