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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, The new VMAX uses a shim under the bucket, instead of on top of the bucket and is a different diameter and part number than the 1200 Vmax of years gone by. Squeeze is the only guy I know that is going to have a "shim Kit' for that baby for a while to come. I got a chance to see one of these new 1.7L motors "Up Close", there doesn't appear to be a cheap part on that whole motor. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Gary, Again, I say Kudo's for thinking outside the box on your brake mod. My intention with the VR to R1 Brake Swap was to provide a minimum of top quality parts at a reasonable cost so that a person with limited mechanical skills could "bolt on" this upgrade, enjoy the benefits of the increased braking performance, not have to revisit the brake lines in a year or two and have the piece of mind to KNOW that the parts that were installed were top quality and will provide a long, and useful service life. You are no doubt, a very resourceful person, with excellent analytical skills. There are many such members on this site. There are however some people that do not enjoy this ability or they do not have the time or equipment to produce custom parts or compare parts from other bikes for usefulness. I try to provide the many kits I offer as a service to all members of VR.ORG, not to get rich off of them but to help them solve problems they are having with their bikes, just as I have had with my own. It would be foolish of me to debate weather you can "gimp" a 25 year old braking system back to life with a few used parts because that was not the intension of any of my posts in the thread you started. As other members have stated, they each came up with their own "work around" for the issues my custom parts try to solve. I am sure you take great pride in discovering your own "work arounds" as do I when it comes to the wonderful machines, and as stated in my very first post, "Take what you need and leave the rest" is meant to say that one of the most wonderful things about this forum is that many people, with many different ideas,can share their knowledge and skills and everyone has the right to "Take what they need, and leave the rest." There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that your brake mod will function properly, and will serve you well in the years to come. Is it the "Cool Beans", "Cat's A$$" to die for upgrade, Hardly! You have made it quite clear that you are a person that likes to work things out on their own, and as I said before, twice, I admire you for this skill set. My thoughts, for what their worth, Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Crewchief, I have an Ad in the VR.ORG Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2446/cat/500 For the entire R1 Kit, but am willing to sell the S.S. Brake Lines and the "Custom" items separately and you can "shop" around for the other items. Hope this helps, Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    I thought I would add a pic or two of the R1 Upgrade just to give you an Idea how "*****in'" the set-up looks. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, Since we got snow here in Pa., I had planned to change the valve cover gaskets on my 87'VR and what better time to do a valve adjustment. I would be willing to send it on to you or anyone else that has a need after I am done. Thanks for yor thoughtfullness, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    The Graphics on the dash face are silk screened to match the Kilo's per hour, the mechanical unit is the same except for the odo and trip meter in the Metric unit. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Dingy, I have to agree with Thom, This must be a first! Using Second Gen. Parts on a First Gen! Thanks for the Kudo's by the way Thom. Here are a few thoughts that came to mind when I put the VR to R1 Brake Swap Kit together, some apply, some don't. Please take what you need and leave the rest. With the 2 piston Calipers on the front of the MKI VR, the only real advantage of an upgrade is the Stainless Steel Braided lines. Although, you are correct, the line set you have is very old and the Second Gen. line set is newer. I fab a few pieces that you may find useful for the delink, they would be the S.S. Banjo Splitter Adapter Bracket, The Rear Master Cylinder Plug Bolt, and a Custom Stainless Steel Braided Rear Brake Line for the Rear Brake. All of these items come with complete installation instructions. Once you delink, the stock rear brake line will not work on the rear master cylinder any more. Thats why you need the new rear brake line. My thought was, you might as well replace it with a S.S. line and be done with it. Having both front calipers work with the hand brake and the rear caliper working with the foot brake works better for me. My bike stops quicker and straighter. Again, Way to think outside the Box! Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Ken, The original version was the KR 175 and production was started in 1955 by Regensburger Stahl- u. Maschinenbau, Regensburg, Germany. It had a single cylinder 2 stroke Fichtel and Sachs motor. It was designed by a German Engineer, Fritz Fend and they were built in the old Messerchmitt Plane factory after world war II from 1955 to 1964. There was a 2 seater model KR 200 and a 1 seater roadster model, KR 201. There were about 40,000 total units made. What a cool Car! Is this a new neighbor of yours?!?! Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, Count me in! I am hoping that jean will be able to make the trip as well. We will need to check her work schedule, she works ever other weekend. I had a great time last year and the ride over was wonderful. See Ya' There, Earl and Jean
  10. skydoc_17
    Both Jean and I were sad to here of your Mother-in-Laws passing. One's outlook on life changes with the passing of their parents, here's hoping you carry the "torch" well. Prayers sent to you, your wife and family, Earl and Jean
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey David, That time frame works well for me, take a look at the railroad spike knives on Ebay and be thinking about what style of knife you would like to have. I spoke to Jean after I showed her your earlier post and told her I was very excited about this project. Thanks for the opportunity, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, I am very glad to see that you will be stateside for the holidays but are you talking about Sunday, December (the 13th) or Jan. (the 10th). Help me out here, Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey James, I was married for 16 years and my X-wife was a fair weather friend...AT BEST! I finally grew the sack to "throw that B**ch to the curb" 12 years ago and have never looked back. As a matter of fact, Jean found me! And we have been married for 12 of the best years of our lives. Don't look at this as a loss... look at it as an UPGRADE! If there is ONE THING that life has taught me is that I have a tendency to set my sights a bit "LOW" when it comes to women. I didn't with my wife Jean and have reaped the rewards ever since. I am sure you will too. Just my thoughts, Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, I do not consider myself an artist what so ever, so I would need some direction, but I have forged many types of metals over the years and have dabbled in knife making as well. (Please see pic below) I too went to Ebay at Freebird's suggestion and feel that there is not a knife in the listings that I could not make. If you would be so kind as to select one of the listings that comes as close to the knife that you would like to have, and supply me with a railroad spike, For the cost of the materials only, I would be happy to donate my labor and reproduce any knife you could find. I really know nothing about leather tooling so I would leave the making of the sheath up to someone else. But as far as the metalworking part goes, I accept this challange. If I can be of service to you, just let me know. I just happen to have some time on my hands right now. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    I always tip for a service. If I get excellent service I tip more. Who knows who got the delivery fee money, I'm with you, those kids are trying to make a living doing something I would not want to do, I say give the kid a few bucks. Next time, let your girl friend drive up and get the pizza, maybe then two bucks won't be such a bad deal. Just my thoughts, Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, From 1985 to 1990, Chevy was transitioning from autos/trucks with a Carb. to fuel injected motors. Along the way to "Tuned Port Injection", there was a stop at what is called "Throttle Body Injection". Here's what you need to check, open the hood, and if you see a conventional looking, round, Air Filter, and under that is a intake manifold that is centered between the two cylinder heads, and on top of that is what looks like it could be a Carb. (minus the float bowls) then you have the " throttle body injected" motor. This motor was produced for about 5 years and if you try to go to another motor then you will be changing the computer out as well. If you lucked out and have the "vortec" tuned port injected motor then you have a lot more options because that motor is still being put in Chevy trucks to this day. (plus or minus some electrical upgrades) If for example you have the 350 motor in your truck now and want to go to a 305 you will need to change the computer as well because the "map" in the computer is different between the 350 and the 305 cubic inch motor. Can Vortec motors and different cubic inch motors be interchanged in your truck, Yes they can but it WILL NOT BE just a strait forward swap of the motor. The computer will need to be changed as well as some of the wiring harness. As far as physically bolting to the transmission, all of the "small block" Chevy motors have the same bolt pattern on the back of the engine, and the motor mounts bolt to the frame in the same place. A V8 Vortec motor would be a great upgrade from a throttle body motor but would take a fair amount of extra work to make it run right. So to answer your question without even knowing what the displacement of your engine is, If it is a throttle body injected 350 cubic inch V8 motor you will be shopping from 1985 to 1990. AND if you try to go with a 305 throttle body motor you will be changing the computer as well. AND if you try to put a Vortec V8 motor of any size in your truck you will be changing the computer and adding or subtracting from the wiring harness as well. Hope this helps, Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, I didn't know you were still suffering from the accident back in 05'! I hope that this will be the last surgery you will need. Both Jean and I wish you well in your recovery. At least you can heal up over the winter months and be good to go come spring. You are in our thoughts, Earl Harrell
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Sunray, As you may know, there are many areas that have water running thru it on the First Gen. VR. The two areas that seem to crop up most of the time are as follows: 1) The water pump is on the right side of the bike as you are sitting on it, ahead of the driver foot peg. You can tell where the unit is because it has a grayish tube that comes out the front and turns 90 degrees to the left back into the engine block. Underneath the water pump is a weep hole, check to see if the water on the floor is under the weep hole. When it's cold the water pump shaft contracts and a small amount of water passes by the seal. I have seen bikes do this for years without any ill effects other than you will need to "top off" the radiator fluid from time to time. If you start to see steam or fluid out of the weep hole while sitting at a light or as soon as you get off your bike after a ride then your water pump seal is pretty much shot and a rebuild or replacement of the water pump is required. 2) Right under the center of the radiator, above, and in front of the oil filter can, behind the lower cowel, (cowel needs to be removed to see this area) there is the radiator drain. The deal with this leakage area is when the O'Ring fails, fluid will fill the lower cowel, and not hit the ground until you move the bike forward, go up an incline, or the lower cowel gets so full that the fluid spills out the back of the lower cowel. The puddle from this leak is USUALLY on the left side because the bike usually sits on the side stand which leans the bike to the left. This leak is more urgent then the weeping water pump, a complete failure of the radiator drain O'Ring could leave you stranded. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1724/cat/6 As a foot note, there is one other area that comes to mind and this would be back on the right side of the bike, this would be the thermostat housing. This is located behind the radiator side cover on the right side that has the reflector on it. There is an O'Ring in the housing that sometimes leaks. This leak is some what of a bear to get to and usually leaks while the radiator is hot. If you have questions or need parts, PM me. Good luck on your quest to find the leak, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey chuck, Both Jean and I wish for you Safe Journeys, I never expected to see snow like that in Texas! Ride safe my friend and keep us posted on your ride. Dave PA sent me this photo, I guess it could always be worse! Earl and jean
  20. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, Both Jean and myself send a most heartfelt congratulation to your son Shane. I myself made it to Life Scout and was a member of "The Order Of The Arrow" but a family emergency forced me to drop out. I regret not finishing and am very proud that your son did. Please give him our best regards, Earl and Jean
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey James, Here are the Part Numbers for the rebuild kits for the Master Cylinder: 2SKU: 3GM-W0099-00-00 CYLINDER KIT, MASTER (CLUTCH)1$23.76http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif And the slave Cylinder Complete: 27SKU: 1FK-16381-11-00 PUSH LEVER COMP.1$62.39http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif And the Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit: 29SKU: 26H-W0098-00-00 PUSH LEVER SEAL KIT1$15.70http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/modules/oemparts/images/partsadd.gif These prices are from Southwest Motosports, you can take the part numbers and go to partshark.com and beat them by a few bucks. As far as the slave cylinder goes I have had much better luck buying the new Slave Cylinder than the rebuild kit. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and if you have a leakng slave, it is usually the Cylinder body that has failed. The Master Cylinder rebuilds fine but you will need a good pair of "snap ring pliers". I purchased the Craftsman (sears) professional series and they did a fine job. If you want to purchase from Southwest Moto just click on "Add To Cart" and you are good to go. If you have questions about the rebuilds, PM me. Hope this helps, Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Mel, My "Little Shop by the Creek" is located in Duncansville, Pa. 78 miles east of Pittsburgh and 12 miles south of Altoona, Pa. If the bike is in Pa. I would be willing to pick up the bike with truck and trailer, do the repairs and square up with you at the end. My shop rate is $30.00 an hour which is well below the dealer rate. I do think that $300.00 is a bit low for the kind of work that you will run into for this type of repair but my shop will get closer to it than a dealer, I am sure of that. With the pick-up and Carb. cleaning time, not to mention a coil or two $300.00 would not last long. A bargain isn't a bargain if you get stuck after the deal is done. If I can help, let me know, Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Nice lookin' scoot you have there! It's sorta' a bad time of the year to be sellin' a scoot like that. Too bad you can't wait till spring. Good luck with your sale, I'll pass the word. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Rich, Being one of those people that pretty much goes where I please, It's good to see a fellow biker rubbin' elbows with other bikers. I love to look at bikes of all types and have had very few times when bikers from a certain group have given me any trouble. The few times that it has happened, I fall back on my standard line.................................................... "WANNA RACE"!?!? Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Just a reminder, a little dab of blue Locktite will make this the last time you will have to take your passing lamp apart. Earl
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