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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. I think it is very important to REMEMBER that there are TWO different kinds of First Gens. and when someone makes a comment about the way they do Maintenance on THEIR motorcycles if it doesn't pertain to YOU then why would you attack the person and the way this man makes a living. I too have the MKII First Gen. and according to the manual you fill the Final Drive to the bottom of the threads. As I have explained before, All of the VR and RSV Final Drives are VENTED, which means that if you overfill them the excess lube exits the Final Drive as a mist thru the VENT. I know Steve personally and if you would take a moment to look at his photo gallery you will plainly see that his bike is in fact a work of art and I wish I knew as much about these bikes as he has Forgotten! Having said that, I would be willing to put my small amount of knowledge about the First Gen. Venture Royales up against ANYONE who has posted in THIS THREAD and while I'm at it, I'd be willing to race my 87'VR against your MKI VR, and I don't care HOW MUCH FLUID YOU HAVE IN YOUR FINAL DRIVE! My name is Earl Harrell and disrespect is a two way street.
  2. Hey Pete, PartShark.com has the relay for you bike brand new! FLASHER RELAY ASY (4NK-83350-00-00) $76.28 This beats the heck out of buying a used one and not having it work. Hope this helps, Earl
  3. WHAT!!! NO PICS!!!
  4. Hey Pete, Do you happen to have the part number? I would be willing to help you find one but since I don't own a Second Gen. The part number would be a great help. Earl
  5. Since the First Gen. speedo is driven off of the front wheel, the speedo will be the same no matter what tire/rim you put on the back of the bike. Now, that would change if you put a different tire/rim on the front. Just so we are all on the same page, Earl
  6. Hey A1Bummer, On the MKII VR BOTH front Calipers are 4 piston Calipers. The Caliper on the right side, (activated with the right side hand lever) has 4 pistons that are 33.96MM in diameter. The left front Caliper, (activated by the foot pedal in conjunction with the rear Caliper on the linked system) has 4 pistons that are 32.10MM in diameter. The rear caliper on the MKII is a 4 piston Caliper with all 4 pistons being 33.96MM in diameter. The problem that I discovered with the stock MKII calipers is the 2 piece design. (right and left caliper halves, bolted together) which caused brake fade at the beginning of a braking cycle, (caliper halves flexing) then caliper lock-up due to caliper collapse. (the 2 caliper halves coming back together after they reach full flex) This is why I went to the R1 Calipers. One piece design, progressive piston engagement, multiple piston sizes in each caliper, better rider "feel" at the brake lever. I also found that the bike stops faster and straiter with both front calipers working together and the rear caliper working with the foot pedal. The last thing I found was that I was able to take better advantage of the use of the "friction zone" with the rear caliper disconnected from the left front caliper. This suited my riding style MUCH better. I hope this answers your questions, Earl
  7. Another thing to take into consideration when selecting larger tires is what it will do to the height of the trailer tongue in relationship to the height of the hitch ball on your bike. You basically want the trailer level to slightly pitched forward, if the trailer is not, then towing problems will result. It would be a shame to purchase fancy "high speed" rims and tires and not be able to pull the trailer anywhere because it pulls so badly. Earl
  8. This first suggestion is for Elmicko, A lot of the First Gen. owners have done the "5Bikes" needle shim mod. What this is, is a replacement shim for the main jet needle. I manufacture a set of 4 nylon needle shims that can be installed that will allow you to "lean out" the Carbs. somewhat to get rid of the rich condition. They work great, they are easy to install without removing the Carbs. and will boost the gas mileage 7+ MPG. If any one is interested, PM me. I did a pretty nice write-up with pics on the Carb. Diaphragm Replacement, if you need that thread PM me. This next comment is for Vic Venture, Unless you are dying to tear that Carb. set off of your MKI VR then I suggest that you open up the float bowls on the Carbs., and drain them. Then, using a can Of Carb. Cleaner, take the little red straw that comes with the cleaner and flood the Carb. Bowls with it. Let it drain, and do it again. If you use a whole can on the 4 Carbs. during an entire day, that's about good enough. If you need pics of the Carb. Bowl drain screws or have other questions about what I am trying to describe then PM me. Both of the Mods I have described here have worked really well for me in the past and they are easily done with a minimum of tools, time and knowledge. Earl
  9. This Auction does have a "Best Offer" feature. If you are interested, then make an offer. $8000.00 would be a steal but $9500.00 would be closer to actual worth. After all, it is Frickin' December! I'm SURE no one is knocking the doors down to buy it. Just my thoughts, Earl
  10. Hey Derek, I have an 87'VR and the speakers were pretty much "shot" when I got it. I didn't want to spend a ton of money because the speakers are exposed to the weather so I picked up a set of "Bolt" 4" speakers from the local swap meet. What you are looking for here is a set of speakers with the foam surrounds and "Polymer" speaker cones so they will not be affected by the weather. I have attached a few pics below to show you how it went. Some say that you can remove the speaker nuts thru the turn signal opening but my hands were too big so I removed both of the black top panels and used the opportunity to repair some wiring and fix some broken plastic. All in All it worked really well and the new speakers sound great! If you have questions, feel free to PM me. Good luck with your project, Earl
  11. I have about 4500 miles on my Garmin Nuvi 855 and it has been flawless so far. At under $200.00 it was a deal. I have attached a few pics below. It is wide screen, has an FM transmitter that allows the sound to come thru the speakers on the bike! MP3 player as well. Earl
  12. Hey Brian, I am pretty sure that Randy is suggesting that you plug off the YICS System on your VR FOR GOOD! Not just to do the Carb. Sync. If I am wrong, I'm sure he will chime in! Because I don't own an MKI VR, I have never plugged off the YICS System to eliminate Vacuum leaks but I could see where all that extra tubing and the box could cause problems. I know a lot of the MKI guys do this mod but I personally have never tried it and have never measured the effects of this mod. Just an FYI. Earl
  13. Hey Mick, The combination of air flow into the engine and out of the engine is a concert of sorts. The restriction is not because of the air box, if you are running a stock air filter and stock exhaust mufflers then the bottle neck is in the air filter on the intake side and in the exhaust mufflers on the exhaust side. (if you don't believe me, take the air box cover off and try to rev your bike!) Not to mention the fact that the jets in the Carbs. control the amount of fuel that is delivered to the Carb. bodies. In stock form the ratio of fuel to air is set up for decent performance and decent fuel consumption. (a compromise) Drilling 50 holes in the air box is not going to allow any more air to pass thru the air filter. On my 87'VR I found that a change to a K&N filter, a rejet of the Carbs, and a set of free flowing exhausts improved the performance considerably. Quite a bit of time and money went into finding the right combination of fuel jet, air filter and exhaust. For the average rider, I think the money would be better spent on a new air filter, fresh plugs and wires, and a fuel filter change. Most riders don't need every bit of horse power these machines are capable of producing considering the speed limit is in the 65 to 70 MPH range on most Interstates. Even at 85 MPH which I saw while traveling across the North West these bikes are more than capable of running at these speeds all day long. Just my thoughts, Earl
  14. Hey Brian, Attached below is a pic of the right side of my 87'VR and the yellow arrows are pointing to the hole where the Idle Mixture Screws are located. This is going to take a pretty small screw driver, like a #1 or #2. I usually squirt WD40 in the holes to loosen up the crud BEFORE removing them. Remove, clean orifice with Carb. cleaner, a slight blast of compressed air, WD40 the screws, reinstall, LIGHTLY BOTTOM the screws! (if you crank them into the seat you will damage the Carb. body and the only fix is to replace the Carb. body!) Then turn out 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns. on all 4 Carbs. I use a digital Tach. to fine tune them after that but this will get you pretty close. Earl
  15. Jack is absolutely correct about the movement of the splines on the end of the drive shaft in conjunction with the up and down movement of the swingarm! So far I have seen 3 First Gen. drive shafts ruined and 2 Second Gen. drive shafts ruined because of lack of lube. I have also seen 2 worn drive shafts "blow-up" the U-Joint coupler as a result of lack of lube. ANY TIME I remove a rear wheel on any shaft drive bike, I use the Honda Moly60 on the drive shaft and rear wheel splines. EVERY TIME. When I perform a rear end/final drive service it includes grease to the drive shaft,(both ends) the rear wheel splines, and the final drive gear oil changed. I also remove the drive shaft from the final drive to install it into the U-Joint,(it pulls right out) Then install the final drive to the geared end of the drive shaft. EVERY Second Gen. I have done rear end service to has been "dry" on the drive shaft splines and rear wheel splines. There is GOOD NEWS about NOT lubing the splines on the drive shaft and the rear wheel splines and changing the final drive gear oil, if you ride a lot, the final drive will most likely Completely Fail BEFORE the 5 year warranty is up and the dealer will replace it for free! Unfortunately, the 2 Second Gens. I worked on were out of warranty and the cost burden was on the owner! If you got more money then time, then ride on brother! I'll leave the shop lite on for ya'! Earl
  16. Hey barend, I think I might have a real nice pair of shocks that would do the job for you but because I don't have a hack, could you please post a pic of the shocks currently on your hack now so I can see if they will work? Thanks, Earl
  17. Hey Rick, Merry Christmas to you and your family, by the way. Try PartShark.com I don't think you will find a cheaper price on OEM parts than this. http://partshark.com/ Good Hunting, Earl
  18. Hey Hazenson, In today's world, ANY young person that is willing to go to college or get a job is top notch in my book. The fact that it is your daughter just makes it all the sweeter. If we as parents don't stand behind our children when they are making an honest effort to do the right thing then what kind of message are we sending to THEM! Plus, this will be a Christmas she will NEVER forget. Ya' done good, from one dad to another. Earl and jean
  19. Hey Herman, Remove the bulb, and with an ohm meter check the Ho beam and Lo Beam circut. The ohm meter should read thru the filiment if it is not burned out. If the two circuts are good on the bulb then you need to check the Hi/Lo Beam switch on your handle bars as well as the starter button. Both of these switches interact with the headlight. Clean the switch with contact cleaner and add some dielectric grease to both switches. If you are lucky, it will be the bulb, but either way, this is a good place to start. Good luck with this project and if you have other questions, post again. Earl
  20. Hey Kevin, I really like the colors on your bike! I made a mount for my GPS that is much steadier than the ram mount I had before. (see pics below) I would be willing to fab up a similar mount for your cam corder if you would like. If I can help you with this, please let me know. Earl
  21. I don't think you have a major problem but the stop and go is tough on these big bikes. When you add a hot day and the fan coming on a lot it just makes it worse. Here is a trick you can use to get you home. Down on the right side of the bike, behind the driver foot peg is a spring that connects to the foot pedal for the rear brake. Disconnect the spring from the switch that activates the brake lights and the anti-dives. When in stop and go traffic thru town or sitting at a stop light USE YOUR FOOT BRAKE ONLY! Be mindful of the fact that you brake lights are not coming on so TAP the right front hand brake from time to time to let people know you are still there so to speak. This works really well while sitting at a long stop light. When the car behind you comes to a stop use the foot brake only while sitting. Dingy is correct when he said that the anti-dives and the rear tail lights are real energy hogs. Keep in mind that your brake lights will still work when you apply the front hand brake. If things get real bad energy wise, pull the headlight fuse during the day and get another rider to lead. These are tricks to get your bike back home, don't make a habit of riding like this. Earl
  22. As far as pickin' up chicks goes, I have never had any trouble getting more women to ride with me than my wife would like to see! (believe me when I tell you that fact!) but the way I see it there are two different types of women when it comes to riding on a motorcycle, the first wouldn't know a scoot from a washing machine, (or a stove for that matter!) They think that chunky, dunkin' donut front tire and that Studebaker dash is actually "cute"! It doesn't bother them at all when the other bikes go flying by on the highway as long as they are "lookin' at her" when they pass! When asked what is to be done when it comes time for Maintenance this woman will resound, "just take it to the dealer, baby". And then there is the other type of woman, the one that leans the same way you do in a tight turn, the kind that yells WoooHoooo! when you "drop the hammer" and dust a Harley, (or a Wanna' Be!) The kind of woman the leaves 8 pairs of shoes at home when going on a road trip, or kicks in for gas, (God love'um) or checks the air in your rear tire because she can get down there easier! Yes Sir, those are the type of women that I like to ride with, and for the other type, well, they can ride with you Second Gen. guys!! I'm Done! Earl
  23. Hey Preacherman, What trouble is your friend having with his bike? Unless there is a connecting rod hanging out the side of the block, most things wrong with the 1300 motor can be repaired with a lot less effort than trying to figure out how to put a 1200 motor in a 1300 bike. If you could give us a few more details, I may have some suggestions for you to make this problem easier. If it is something major, I have an extra 1300 motor complete here at the shop if that would help. Earl
  24. Hey Rumboogy, After seeing the Res. GPS mount from Motorcycle Larry I "whipped up" this mount for my GPS. I use the 17MM ball for the Garmin and it works great. Could you please post a pic of your mount when you get it on your bike? Nice scoot, by the way. Earl
  25. Hey Charley, I remember as if it was just yesterday how much I loved the sound of my unbaffled Honda 750 and KZ900! The upside of this set-up is because of the reduction in back pressure the bike is going to "wind up" much faster! Throw a K&N air filter in that baby and you will have a screamer. You may notice quite a bit of "popping" on decell, as the collector actually sucks oxygen into itself and unburned exhaust gases will "reignite" inside the collector. (There is a "slight" chance of splitting the collector open under HARD decell) As long as you are into the throttle the bike is going to run well but you may find "cruising" or putting around town will not be as much fun. ( engine stumbles, hard to hold idle, etc.) Now for the downside, with the tips basically exiting at your hips, you are going to smell exhaust fumes and feel the heat on your feet when sitting at a stop light. As a result of being exposed to this kind of machine for over 50 years, I now suffer from CHS! (Can't Hear S**T!) The last thing I wanted to mention is that (and it took me years to figure this out on my own) because I ride "rather quickly" a lot of the time, the louder your bike is, the more attention you draw to yourself. Now don't get me wrong, I was all about getting attention, but what I found out was the cops were the ones paying more attention to me than any one else! ( too many tickets!) The other thing I found out was that most girls don't like a motorcycle that makes more noise than they do! ( This is IMPORTANT!, Pay Attention!) Your guy friends are going to think your loud bike is "cool" but if you want to cruse with "chicks" then you are going to have to find something between "freight train loud", and your dad's Gold Wing. A set of Mac mufflers, or the Jardines, would be an excellent choice, louder than stock with a good sound but not so loud that your local police Dept. follows you every time you go to the 7/11 for a soda. (Been there, done that, got the Tshirt!) Now, when I was your age, when my dad said, "short hair", I said, "long hair!" when he said, "bike too loud", I said, "bike needs to be louder"! So what you are feeling is perfectly normal. Now that I am older, and have looked back on all of the girls I could have taken for a ride, but they would not because my bike was too noisy, or all of the tickets I got because I ran in a pack of three bikes, I wasn't even going the fastest, but was the loudest, so I got the ticket! If my dad was alive today, he would say I was a "knuckle head"! about things like that. If I had it to do over again, and knew what I know now, I think I may have done a few things different. But who knows! Below is a pic of my 87'VR with the Jardines on her, pretty cool, right!?!? You'll figure it out...in time, we all did! (Just don't be a knuckle head about it like I was!) Earl
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