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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Barend, You might try some contact cleaner, or even better pull the Hi/LOW headlight switch apart on the left handlebar and clean with contact cleaner and add some dielectric grease to the contacts. When my headlight went bad, it was the reserve lighting unit. I have one if you need it. PM me. Hope this helps, Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, The Idle Circuit pretty much kicks out at 2000 RPM's. In the pic I posted above, the red arrow is pointing to the Idle mixture screw. (use PB Blaster or WD40 on these screws BEFORE you try to turn them) Lightly bottom that screw out by turning it clockwise and then turn each of the 4 screws (one on each Carb.) out 21/2 turns. This is a good start point. I use a digital Tach. to fine tune them but the problem he is describing is not due to this part of the Carbs. but it doesn't hurt to have them set right. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    It is my opinion that you are dealing with an electric problem. When you get that set of plug wires in, bite the bullet and put in a new set of plugs. There is no real good way of telling if a plug is good or bad. Back off on the seafoam when you put the new plugs in. Over use of seafoam WILL foul a plug. Just for grins, turn off the petcock for the fuel, and crack the screw that will let the Carb. bowels drain out. (Pic below, yellow arrow) Catch what comes out and examine the contents. If it looks clear, (no chunks or rust flakes) then you may have the dreaded TCI problem which is extra bad because you have the 83'VR and that TCI is only on the 83'. This is all assuming that your Carbs. are Synced., and Diaphragms are good. While you are changing the plug wires, (Which is going to require you to remove the battery and the battery box, use PB blaster or WD 40 on the battery box bolts) pull the plugs on the TCI and clean them with contact cleaner and put dielectric grease on them. When installing the new plug wires I use a squirt of silicone spray on the ends of the wires. It helps getting the grommet and the plug wire back into the coil. Pay attention to how the grommet goes on, it's directional. I remove the wires from the coils one at a time, the two rears from the battery box location and the two front ones from under the front of the fairing. Be REALLY careful not to drop the coil cap or the grommet, Most Yamaha dealers don't keep these items in stock. If you have questions, PM me. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Hey Chuck, I too have an 87'VR and I do not have the adjusters on the slider needles as you have. Even with the other Carb. mods and the FJR1300 final drive I have in my bike, I still get a SOLID 42 MPG even though I ride pretty much "wide open" all the time. I would think that 40 to 45 MPG would be doable on your scoot by adjusting the slider needles one more notch as long as you have attended to the other items I mentioned. By the way, thanks for the friends request, it's a pleasure to chat with you about your bike as we have the same model year. Come on now, give it one more try, after all it's getting close to winter. And how many times can you polish your VR before the paint starts to rub off! Good luck on your quest for better gas mileage, Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Welcome to the site, stick around, you may learn something and make a friend or two. Two big things I would check would be Carb. Sync. and leakage where the mufflers connect to the header pipes. There is a member in your state that knows his stuff, V7Goose. he has more than one excellent thread about "popping" and backfiring from the exhausts on the 2nd Gens. Another error that is made is the running of High Test gas in these bikes. It's a no-no. Unburned fuel is leaving the cylinder head thru the exhaust valve and traveling into the exhaust system where it combusts due to exhaust pipe heat and causes the "popping". The object is to have ALL of the fuel combust INSIDE the combustion chamber of the cylinder head creating power to run the engine, anything else is wasted. Hope this gives you a few places to start looking, Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Josh, I have seen this ONE other time. A gent with an 89'VR (not from this site) had filled the crankcase until you could see the oil level thru the fill hole. He didn't know about the "Oil level window". The bike stopped running, he brought it to my shop and just by chance I dropped a wrench by the right footpeg and when I bent down to get it I made an off the wall comment that your oil level is over full. He said how do you know that, and I said because the oil level is above the little window right here. He said, how much does one of these here Ventures hold and I said less than 4 qts, how much did you put in and he said, 8 QUARTS!! I changed the oil and filter, and had to put a new set of plugs in his bike, the pistons had slopped oil onto the plugs and it would not fire. After that, all was well. Oh, one other thing, the seal where the output shaft for the drive shaft comes out of the engine case weeped oil for a few days but dried up when the oil level was returned to normal. Glad you did no damage, try a new set of plugs, Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Hey Chuck, Congrats on getting that crankcase vent filter on!, and thanks for the cudos on the write-up. Here is some information that might be helpful to you. With a dose of sea foam in the tank, your mileage is going to drop because sea foam is an excellent Carb. cleaner but a lousy fuel. Check you mileage again after the next full tank of regular gas. (not running hi test gas I hope!) If you would like to get you mileage into the mid to high 40's try the FIVE BIKES needle shim mod, Instead of using Stainless Steel washers I now make a Nylon replacement washer that goes in place of the Nylon Spacer on the slider needle. Interested, PM me. I have a write-up on the install by the way. I Sync. my Carbs. more than most do but I always Sync. them when I modify ANYTHING to do with the Carbs. or intake system. Other things to check would be, Air Filter, Spark Plug Wires, Fuel Filter. I can tell when my air filter gets dirty because of the decrease in the gas mileage. If you have any other questions, just ask. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Thank you one and all for those kind words! It is always a pleasure to have ANY of the VR.ORG members stop by "The little shop by the creek" if for nothing else, just to say "Hey". I have attached a few pics of the latest addition to the little shop by the creek. This new addition will allow me to work on more than one bike at a time and will allow me to run the machine shop equipment in one building and work on bikes in the other. As a few of you members know, the little shop by the creek is exactly that, a little shop! But with this new addition, I am hoping to be able to expand and work on more than one bike at a time. I will keep you posted as my brother and I race the weather to complete this project. Thanks for your support, Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Dan, The RPM's are right for the MKII. As far as the MPG's, you need to look at the Carb. Diaphragms and do the Needle shim mod for better MPG's. I now have NYLON spacers made up for the Needle Shim MOD that replace the stock spacers and give you the better gas mileage. PM me if you are interested. The stator is oil cooled on the MKII, The clutch discs are the same. I have always had good luck with the stock Yamaha clutch discs, I do have the 87'VR double springed, and I am SURE I run my bike harder then you do. Never a slip. The exhaust pipes are shorter on the MKI. The front forks have the electronic anti-dive on the MKII, the MKI has hydraulic anti-dive. Any other questions, feel free to ask. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Hey Bill, The slider needle is not interchangeable between the 1985 and 1986 VR because the taper of the needle is sharper on the 1985 VR than it is on the 1986 VR and the seat in the Carb. body of each year has the corresponding different taper in it. By the way, what makes you think that the needle is bad? Short of loosing one, this is not exactly a wear part. If you have other questions about the Carb. Set on your 85'VR please feel free to PM me. Good luck on your hunt, Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey dale, Try This Link: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35274]First Gen. Carb. Sync. With Carbtune Including Pics! - VentureRider.Org[/ame] This is for a First Gen. but the proceedure is pretty much the same. The adjustment screws are in a different location, and you won't be putting your bike on the center stand, and you won't be checking the tach on the dash for the proper RPM's but other that that this will work just fine. (sorry for the shameless jab about the center stand and tach!) Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Being a free thinking, spirited individual, I have found that there are so many freedoms in this country that have been infringed upon in recent years. But the last time I checked, this is still the U.S.A., where a man and his wife can CHOOSE if and when they would like to go for a motorcycle ride and CHOOSE who they will take that ride with. I have never been much of a "club" guy, but I have taken a real likin' to this band of brothers, this "family". It is a pleasure to have you join us, you certainly won't be disappointed, and you most definitely won't have anyone tell you when you will ride, and with who. Welcome Brother, Earl and jean
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Skid, Boy, it must be hard to choose which bike to take out for a ride these days! Your stable is looking pretty darn good there! I wonder if we could put a Ski on the First Gen. for winter "Fun"! I'm Glad you had old yammer out for a while! I'm glad you both had a great day. Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    That $20.45 price is for a SINGLE Valve cover gasket. You need two to do the job. With shipping, you'll be $50.00 into the two gaskets. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    As most of you know, I have been Laid Off from Lockheed/Martin for the last 11 plus months and I have been working on bikes to keep my head above water. Well, I took my first big gulp of H2O this afternoon when I watched my 86'VR go home with it's new owner and my pride and joy, my 86' V65 Magna being trailered off. What with regular bills, Taxes, and now heating oil, i sorta' got backed into a corner. I am pretty much blowing out prices on items I have from my shop that I kept in stock to service the many members that have come to "My little shop by the creek" I have First and Second Gen. R1 Caliper Swap kits in the classifieds as well as First Gen. Stock calipers for sale. All have been rebuilt and can be shipped with or without pads. It looks like it is going to be a long winter here in Pa. and if any of my ads interest you, please let me know. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2445/cat/500 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2446/cat/500 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2443/cat/500 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2330/cat/500 http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2333/cat/500 To all of the VR.ORG members that have given me the privilege to work on your bikes I am grateful, as is my family. Without knowing it, you have fed my family and kept the lights on! I have attached a pic of each of the two bikes that are now gone. My Stable is looking pretty "thin" these days. Thanks for all that you have done, Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, If and when I get this final drive thing figured out, I will just have to lure you back to the states with some of Jean's good home cooking and of course "The Rib Shack" down the street! Plus, we do have some excellent roads to ride on here, most with pavement! It would be a pleasure to have you stay with us again, and we might just "accidently" slide a VMAX final drive in your RSV during your stay. Please feel free to bring Kevin and let him know that I will speak to the park ranger and have him open the "plumpapotomus" season early for him. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Rick, That was an excellent question! I had to look at the parts schematic for the 2nd Gens. to get an idea of what is going on in the final drive. It looks to me as if the sensor is "counting the teeth" of the ring gear to determine the speed of the bike. If I am wrong, I would love to be corrected. As I said in my earlier post, I don't own a 2nd Gen. so I have no way of "tinkering" with one, but I am very interested in offering useful mods for the 2nd Gen. owners as I have for the 1st Gen. owners. If I have made an incorrect assumption, please let me know, I love to learn! Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Squeeze, Thanks for the RPM adjustment on the Second Gen. fifth gear, not owning a Second Gen. myself the figures I quoted in my previous post were for First Gens. If there is a Second Gen. owner that is some what close and wants to work with me on this mod I have a late model VMAX final drive in excellent condition and a milling machine, but no Second Gen.! If I could recoup my cost for the final drive I would throw the machining in for free and a minimal charge for any shims or fluids needed. This would allow me to offer these modified final drives to Second Gen. owners in the future. If for some reason the VMAX final drive doesn't work, I would reinstall your stock final drive at NO CHARGE! It would be a win, win! Any takers?!?! PM me. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    Hey Jack, Believe me when I say that you are gonna' love these 2nd Gen. Valve cover gaskets compared to the First gen. Gaskets! No glue, No goop, just clean the Valve Cover groove well and stick them on! There is the "rib" that goes around the outside of the gasket that looks a little funky but once you put your side covers back on you will never see it and you will chuckle to yourself everytime you do see it because they were SO EASY to install. Good score on the Ebay gaskets! Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    OK, Here's the "Scoop" on the VMAX Final Drive Swap. When you install a VMAX or FJR1300 final drive in your bike it RAISES the RPMs 550 to 600. (example: stock final drive, 65MPH, 3600 RPMs. VMAX final drive, 65MPH, 4200 RPMs.) This swap increases the "pulling power" of your bike and makes it quicker off the line. The downside is you loose a few miles per gallon. On a First Gen. the final drives are a strait swap except you need to shim the final drive to keep the axle and final drive shaft perpendicular. (see attached pic) ON A SECOND GEN. you have a problem because the speedo is driven off of the final drive and the hole for the speedo sensor IS NOT in the VMAX final drive housing. What this means to a Second Gen. owner is you would need to remove the stock ring and pinion gear from the final drive housing, and replace it with the ring and pinion gear from the VMAX. The install of a ring and pinion gear is not a "plug and play" install. You would need a good dial indicator to check ring gear run out and the gear "lash" must be measured and "set". You would also need a fixture to hold the final drive while you measure and make these adjustments. This is not a job for a shade tree mechanic. You will have a fair amount of money into the new VMAX ring and pinion gear and if set up incorrectly, you will have lost you investment in the new VMAX ring and pinion gear and maybe even ruin your final drive housing. Freebird and a few other Second Gen. members have purchased final drives already set up with excellent results. I do not remember the name of the company but I'm sure one of the Second gen. owners will chime in. You basically give them your stock final drive and they give you a final drive with the ring and pinion gear installed. I think the price is $300.00 for the unit, plus double shipping. (your final drive to them, the new final drive back to you.) In my opinion, this is one of the best upgrades you can do for your Second Gen. because 5th gear is so over driven. I have VMAX final drives available for First Gens. with the shim and can either install them at my "little shop by the creek" or can send you the entire unit with the shim, ready to install. If you have removed a rear rim to have a tire installed, you have done 75% of the work it takes to install a new final drive. If you have other questions about a final drive swap or are interested in a VMAX final drive for your First Gen., please feel free to PM me. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    I would like to address Tatonka's question about the use of Dot 4 Brake fluid in the RSV and RSTD and the origin of the whine or chirp that comes from these bikes. All of the RSV's and RSTD's have a master cylinder on the handle bars that is filled with brake fluid. squeezing the clutch lever compresses the fluid in the master cylinder which in turn activates a slave cylinder located on the left side of the bike. Both of these bikes are of the "Wet Clutch " type and the ENGINE OIL lubes the clutch plates. So, yes brake fluid is used in the system that engages and disengages the clutch and motor oil is used to lube the clutch plates inside the engine. Now, as to the origin of the whine or chirp, the transmission uses strait cut gears which are, by nature noisier that bevel cut gears. These gears are cheaper to produce from a manufacturing standpoint and are stronger, and noisier. I have heard noise from the lack of lube on the splines of the final drive and drive shaft but this is an entirely different noise. So, you have two different parts of the drive train, making two different noises, for two different reasons. The former being an issue with design and the latter being a lack of maintenance. I hope this sheds some light on this subject. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Here is a list of the different ways I have used Seafoam for different problems I have encountered in my "little shop by the creek". When putting my bike away for the winter I use 1/2 can of Seafoam to a full tank of gas on a First gen. I let the bike idle until the fan comes on and then let it sit until spring. If you have that pesky "stumble" in the 1100 to 1800 RPM range then the Idle Circuit is clogged in one or more of the Carbs. and I use a full can of Sea Foam to a full tank of gas. It is important to let the bike Idle ONLY, because when you rev the engine the fuel is delivered thru the main jets and the Sea Foam is not going thru the Idle Circuit. I use a floor fan to keep the engine temp. lowered. I have a 1.5 oz. syringe and have injected Sea Foam into the Vacuum port where you would connect your Manometer for a Carb. Sync. to remove carbon deposits from valves usually caused from running high test gas in a VR. I inject 1.5 Oz's. in each vacuum port while reving the engine. I have shut off the fuel tank, drained the Carb. Bowels, and injected strait Sea Foam into the drain lines, back filling the Carb. Bowels to free up sticky floats and clean the float needle seats on really gummed up Carbs. I have added 5 Oz's. of Sea Foam to my engine oil before an oil change to clean the oil level window which was crudded up so badly I could not see the oil level. By the third oil change the inspection window was pretty much "like new". I added the Sea Foam, rode the bike normally for about 30 minutes and then drained the oil and changed the filter. I have done this on both my 86'VR and 87'VR and a number of other bikes of different makes with no ill effects. I have done this on two bikes with aftermarket oil pressure gages added and saw an immediate 3 lb. increase in oil pressure which is significant on an oil system that has virtually ZERO oil pressure at Idle. Now for my disclaimer: I am not saying that using Sea Foam will replace having your Carbs. rebuilt! It WILL NOT repair punctured Carb. Diaphragms! If you put Sea Foam in your gas tank and run the hell out of your bike it will do absolutely NOTHING to the Idle Circuit in your Carbs. and will not clear up the pesky "Stumble" at 1100 to 1800 RPMS! And If you Drain all of the oil out of your engine and fill the crankcase with Sea Foam you will DESTROY your engine! With that being said, I think Sea Foam is a fine product, when used properly, and used for a condition that it was designed to cure. If someone comes to my shop and says, "rebuild my Carbs." I have absolutely no problem doing just that, but if this same person comes to my shop and says " can you help me with my performance problem", I would be more inclined to try a $9.00 can of Sea Foam over a $600.00 Carb. rebuild. If you have questions about how I use Sea Foam please feel free to ask. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, I wish I could have made it farther down south but to be honest, the last leg of my trip home was on the ragged edge of my tolerance for cold and rain. I do not have heated gear and if it were not for the kindness of Jay Richards and Patricia in Northern Va. allowing me to stay with them for the night and breaking up the final push home, I would have looked like a frozen TV Dinner by the time I got home. As I have gotten older, I have discovered that I enjoy riding in colder, wet weather less and less. I envy you Southern riders for your longer, warmer riding season and I have a whole new respect for our VR.ORG members that live in the upper most Northern states and Canada! Perhaps 2010 will be the year I make it to your "neck of the woods", and I eagerly look forward to spending time in the South again. Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Squid, My lips are sealed.........and who said I WAS FOLLOWING!! Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Buddy, I'm not sure what happened there, It must be the echo, echo, echo,! Earl
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